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No Idea

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Everything posted by No Idea

  1. Beautiful work the bits could be a stand alone model. I've been watching some tutorials on Vcarve and at some point may take the plunge on trying to learn it better. I was wondering how you take the drawings and transpose them into Vcarve? I'm a total novice with Vcarve and CNC so I expect your answer will give me more questions than answers.
  2. I really like things like this especially kickstarter projects. I think its got very good potential and fixing it to a mill would be a simple conversion or simply clamping it down. I've decided to back this project so I'll let you know in about 9 months whether it's come to fruition or not so thanks for sharing the project.
  3. David do you have a link to this vice?
  4. Wow congratulations on such a nice build - not only do you have carpentry skills but CAD skill too. Lovely job 👍
  5. Now that is a Pegasus!! A fitting figurehead for such an amazing ship - good luck with the carving I'm sure it will be fantastic 👍
  6. Fantastic website Chris - easy to navigate and the ships look amazing. I don't know how you make such lovely models for the price - they are a bargain for the result that builders get!
  7. Another update from me - I've now closed off the stern and finished the stern windows. There's not too much to say about this work other than the planking is not straight but curved. I tried bending planks but pretty much got no where with that so in the end I made them from a 13mm wide plank by sanding them to shape. The hinges and closers are blackened brass. I still need to place the nails on the external planks but thats a nice easy job. I think I'm going to make the quarterdeck beams, supports and waterways next. Mark
  8. Fantastic work! When I had a go at Samson posts I thought about using a mill. But actually I found them really nice to make just using a chisel. Maybe I'll try a mill next time as your results are lovely.
  9. The last plank I have found takes the longest to trim but is the easiest to fit. The very last plank I always trim to be an interference fit so that it is tight to get in place. This just takes time and patience and because it's a tight fit I usually use a very small hammer with plastic ends to get it into place. I've never used clamps on the last plank
  10. This is a fantastic observation and you are absolutely correct. Thinking back I used narrower planks on my first planking compared to the second layer. That way the overlap of any seams was minimal 👍
  11. Hi Ian this could easily be made from hardwood and the hole made using a hole cutter. Good luck with your project 👍
  12. Hi John Yea I did exactly that when I made my last model - Its great practice but also time consuming. Its also much easier to line off the second layer as you have the correct rounded shape of the hull without having to deal with bulkheads - good luck Mark
  13. In that case you can put the first layer of planks on just as the picture above shows. This layer will help you get the shape of the hull probably with a bit of filler too. You will only need to line off your second layer of planking as this will obviously be seen.
  14. Hi Ian - Thats a really good question and one that I had thought about too. I was going to use a fly cutter which is perfectly feasible but as I machine in my home I didn't want too much swarf. I cut the hole by using a rotary table with a 4 jaw chuck so the centre came out in one piece. I used a 3mm 2 flute end mill to do this. The wires run directly through the mill head - here's a better picture @Dr PR many thanks for the explanation that makes sense to me now 👍
  15. Hi John is your model double planked or single planked? Also is the hull going to be painted?
  16. Hi Paul - you know what a yellow filter may just calm down the stark colour of white so thanks for that as it's something I may try. As for pulse width modulation - mate is this a name of a new band? Only joking - I'm a bit old now and I don't understand electrics at all. In fact my wiring is probably questionable at best but I do think that people that understand this aspect could easily move this forward as you suggest. In fact if they do let me know in very very simple terms how to do this. I just run the light off of a 12v plug in charging transformer.
  17. Hi JohnWW this is what lining off looks like It's about the planning of the planking strakes (runs) so that you know how every single plank will fit. It will give you the dimensions of each strake too. Some more pictures to help you You can use tape, string, cotton or anything that will follow the lines. Now this may seem like an awful lot of planning and yes it takes a lot of time to get this right - however - if you can draw the strakes you can make them! If you line off your hull it takes all of the guess work out of planking and you have pretty much won the battle before even cutting your first piece of wood. Read the tutorials on here as they will help you through the process. Good luck! Mark
  18. Hi Mark - yep you are spot on they are sold as car accessories. I got two of these lights for £10 delivered You are right about the cold white light. It would also be good if they could be dimmed a little too.
  19. Hi All I know that a few builders on here use a Sherline mill as do I. I have found that my eyesight needs more light as I get older so I have wanted for a while to make a decent ring light for my mill. I found some cheap 60mm ring lights that run on 12/24v that seemed to be about the right size. Unfortunately it couldn't be directly attached to the mill head as it would remove any access to the Tommy bar spindle hole. So a carrier was required and I bashed this up out of 10mm aluminium. The slot allows the wiring to travel up through the mill head which is already there. It keeps the look of it wiring free I milled a small slot each side to allow for the Tommy bar to reach the spindle Its held in place with double sided tape And the wiring is encased in polyester braiding to try and make it look as though it has always been there The results are really good I hope this helps someone or gives a bit of inspiration to make the lighting on your mill a bit better - Anyway I can now get back to ship building instead of filling my workshop with aluminium swarf!! Mark
  20. Love the details on the beams - the dovetails are perfect.
  21. I too have had some very disappointing days during my build and things can get disheartening. Take a few days and it always seems better. I think your build was coming along beautifully. I hope you do get to finish this ship 👍
  22. Keep going mate you’re doing a great job these timbers are particularly difficult to make. 👍👍
  23. That looks great 👍 The transition is very smooth and much better than the step that I arrived at - top job
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