No Idea

Hi Mike - it's a trick of the camera! The gantry is separate from the height gauge in front of the of it. This is the gauge that I use - I use this to measure so much as my datum for the build is the bottom of the keel. I didn't have this tool when I began building but I wish that I had.

druxey, dvm27 and SaltyScot - thanks for the comments! It's nice to know that it's not just me that has had to resolve earlier issues. After I built the quarter deck I was surprised just how much it changes the entire look of the ship. It just looks so much more complete and solid which was just another piece of encouragement to move forward. Mark

Thanks Jacques that really means a lot to me - Since starting Le Rochefort I have bought a few monographs which has made me appreciate just how good the monograph by Gerard really is. I also have to remember that this is my first POF build too! My shipyard is obviously on the sketchy side 🤣 but we get things done! Thanks Chris - We fly out next Sunday for a much needed 2 week holiday in the sun.

Hi Keith what a really nice comment - I also told Lorraine about your birthday wishes and she said thank you very much Cheers mate!

Hi All I've not posted in a while as I found an issue with my build that began 3 1/2 years ago when my building skills and general ship understanding were very much in their infancy I guess. I first noticed this problem when I fitted the stern timbers and stern windows. I could see that the counter timbers did not go fully to the top of the stern timbers and the quarter deck rear beam seemed far too close to the top of the windows. The issue is - I have set the counter timbers at the wrong angle which to correct at this stage would be very difficult indeed. I felt that this would be the end of the build as I have tried my very best to keep as accurately to the plans as possible. I decided just to have a break and come back to it later with a fresh outlook and see how I felt about the problem. So with a renewed outlook I took loads of measurements of the entire ship. I discovered that everything forward of the stern post is fine. I also discovered that everything rearward of the stern post is 5mm out of spec. So I have a ship that is 5mm longer than it should be and the issues that accompany it. Upwards and onwards - The build continues but first I had to address a couple of problems. I would need to lift the rear beam upwards to the correct height and the quarter deck would have to be bespoke behind the stern post. So firstly the rear beam - Rather than remove the beam I have just made it 1.5mm thicker by adding a piece on. Next I made the beams - here's a few pictures of the process that I use. Just rough cut on the band saw I prefer to sand the inner curve first but I'm sure it makes no difference Then the outer Next I cut the dovetail joints - I really like doing this part its so satisfying Then I cut them into the clamps using a height gauge to make sure that they are at the correct height. I also sense check the alignment with a steel rule as they must be level with the stern post. Then I made the beam supports Finally I made the waterways which sit nicely on the level of the planksheer So although I'm not exactly to the plans anymore I think I've pulled it back enough to get away with it. I do have knock on issues such as the taff rail will be longer etc etc.... but I've got my head around what needs to be done. On the positive side you are getting 5mm more ship for your buck!!! Also stepping away sometimes is a very good thing to do! I'm very much back into it now - A slight delay though as it's my wife's 60th birthday next week so we are off to Crete for a fortnight to celebrate. I can now remove all of the beams and start some of the interior detail. Mark

Albert your work is simply amazing and very inspiring too

Just my experience but I have tried different types of pin vices and found some to be lacking for my needs. The clamping action in many is just so poor that it makes the whole job so much harder. I settled on the Starrett and they have now given me years of trouble free work so I would recommend these. As for the bits I only buy cobalt bits now - they are strong and stay sharp for ages. They will also plow through brass and stainless steel without any problems.

Beautiful work the bits could be a stand alone model. I've been watching some tutorials on Vcarve and at some point may take the plunge on trying to learn it better. I was wondering how you take the drawings and transpose them into Vcarve? I'm a total novice with Vcarve and CNC so I expect your answer will give me more questions than answers.

I really like things like this especially kickstarter projects. I think its got very good potential and fixing it to a mill would be a simple conversion or simply clamping it down. I've decided to back this project so I'll let you know in about 9 months whether it's come to fruition or not so thanks for sharing the project.

Thats just genius!!

David do you have a link to this vice?

Wow congratulations on such a nice build - not only do you have carpentry skills but CAD skill too. Lovely job 👍

Now that is a Pegasus!! A fitting figurehead for such an amazing ship - good luck with the carving I'm sure it will be fantastic 👍

Fantastic website Chris - easy to navigate and the ships look amazing. I don't know how you make such lovely models for the price - they are a bargain for the result that builders get!

Another update from me - I've now closed off the stern and finished the stern windows. There's not too much to say about this work other than the planking is not straight but curved. I tried bending planks but pretty much got no where with that so in the end I made them from a 13mm wide plank by sanding them to shape. The hinges and closers are blackened brass. I still need to place the nails on the external planks but thats a nice easy job. I think I'm going to make the quarterdeck beams, supports and waterways next. Mark

Fantastic work! When I had a go at Samson posts I thought about using a mill. But actually I found them really nice to make just using a chisel. Maybe I'll try a mill next time as your results are lovely.

The last plank I have found takes the longest to trim but is the easiest to fit. The very last plank I always trim to be an interference fit so that it is tight to get in place. This just takes time and patience and because it's a tight fit I usually use a very small hammer with plastic ends to get it into place. I've never used clamps on the last plank

Fantastic 👍👍👍

This is a fantastic observation and you are absolutely correct. Thinking back I used narrower planks on my first planking compared to the second layer. That way the overlap of any seams was minimal 👍

Hi Ian this could easily be made from hardwood and the hole made using a hole cutter. Good luck with your project 👍

Hi John Yea I did exactly that when I made my last model - Its great practice but also time consuming. Its also much easier to line off the second layer as you have the correct rounded shape of the hull without having to deal with bulkheads - good luck Mark

In that case you can put the first layer of planks on just as the picture above shows. This layer will help you get the shape of the hull probably with a bit of filler too. You will only need to line off your second layer of planking as this will obviously be seen.

Hi Ian - Thats a really good question and one that I had thought about too. I was going to use a fly cutter which is perfectly feasible but as I machine in my home I didn't want too much swarf. I cut the hole by using a rotary table with a 4 jaw chuck so the centre came out in one piece. I used a 3mm 2 flute end mill to do this. The wires run directly through the mill head - here's a better picture @Dr PR many thanks for the explanation that makes sense to me now 👍

Hi John is your model double planked or single planked? Also is the hull going to be painted?

Hi Paul - you know what a yellow filter may just calm down the stark colour of white so thanks for that as it's something I may try. As for pulse width modulation - mate is this a name of a new band? Only joking - I'm a bit old now and I don't understand electrics at all. In fact my wiring is probably questionable at best but I do think that people that understand this aspect could easily move this forward as you suggest. In fact if they do let me know in very very simple terms how to do this. I just run the light off of a 12v plug in charging transformer.