No Idea

Some more done Before I started the planking I just did a quick check to make sure it was all square as I didn't want a wonky stern 🤣 I did this because I fitted it a long time ago when my measuring skills and equipment wasn't as good as today. It was only 1mm out on the port side so I squared it up with a rasp. All of the planks are curved so I pre-bent them all just using Chucks edge bending technique and then got to work fitting them. The last plank was the hardest as it's a moulding which makes the transition from the counter timbers to the overlap of the stern planking. I made a scraper and shaped it on the bench. It was tricky to fit and I lost some of its detail but all in all I think it looks ok. I like the side detail where the first 2 planks sit flush with the outer planking but the rest sit behind. Its also the only place where you can actually see the shiplap joints too. So I'm going to continue working on the outer of the stern working my way upwards for now. More mouldings to make and more planks to pre-bend for the construction of it. Mark

That really is beautiful work

Hi You use the smaller one 👍 If you look at the drawing there is a double arrow pointing towards it - I had exactly the same question as you did when I arrived at this point in the build. There is also another drawing which will help you with the curvature of the hawse timbers. Le Rochefort is a single planked ship and not double planked I hope this helps you - Mark

Thanks SaltyScot Thank you giampieroricci Cheers CiscoH Cheers davec 👍 A little bit more of an update - Today I tackled the limber channel which I've been putting off since I completed the frame work. To me its one of those jobs that you only get one go at and its nerve racking!!!! I also gave it a real good clean up inside and out and finished the port side with the same shellac I also repaired the damage to the counter timbers so they are now fine again My next job is going to be planking the stern vault - The timbers have a shiplap joint and I have already cut them and are good to go. Thanks for re-following my build and honestly thanks for the kind comments - Mark

Thanks Kevin - This is the first time that I have single planked a hull as my others have been double planked. Its Ok but I've learnt a lot doing this - my next build will be better Thanks Chris - I think it was Chuck or Dan Vadas that put me in the direction of shellac. I found that I prefer the finish of the sanding sealer rather than the shellac gloss itself. It's easily removed if you get it wrong and it's, its own solvent too. I apply it with a French polishers cloth bulb and immediately rub it over with a cloth. This removes any excess and matts it down too. I buy it ready mixed from these people https://finneyswoodfinishes.co.uk/Finney's_Shellac_Sanding_Sealer. I have brush too that I use and I don't bother cleaning it after use - Just drop it into the shellac and 10 minutes later the bristles are soft again. Cheers mate

Well after a very long wait for me I eventually got my workshop back in November. I did however revamp it with a bigger work area and decorate it too. So back to building Le Rochefort at very long last! In my last post I had to remove a few planks and have a good clean up. Since then I've been happily getting the planking done. I think the comments above sum up the issues I had so I think pictures tell a better story than words. More tree nails Final sanding a a very light coat of shellac sanding sealing Some of my joints leave quite a bit to be desired but on the whole I think it looks OK. I could have made life so much easier by using much thinner planks but I wanted to stay true to the drawings and scantlings. Next time I will not use black archival ink for the joints either as I think it just looks far too stark. I would probably use brown ink or just a HB pencil as my dodgy joints would not stand out so much! I've learnt how to spile planks now too and I have found that once you get your head around it the process is very easy to do. The ship has sustained a bit of damage in the process and as such I need to repair the counter timbers a little and remake the taff rail stantions. Its no big deal - I think it was druxey who a long time ago said that they probably wouldn't last the distance during the build - he was right 🤣 I wanted to remake them anyway as I had missed out the detail on them which would have been difficult to do in place. The new and improved taff rail stantions which I knock out earlier on the mill So thats me back at it and although I've been participating on the forum there's nothing like actually building My next jobs are to cut the limber channel and shape all of the frame spacers on the port side. I'm then going to concentrate on the stern just to beef it up a bit as it's too exposed at the moment. Another job is going to I'm going to make a heavy duty keel clamp. I didn't enjoy chasing the hull around the work bench and I've seen that others have made one too. Thanks for your patience - Mark

You could always buy a Foredom pendant motor which is an amazing stand alone tool for modelling and then also get the drill press attachment which is extremely good. Two tools in one but they do not come cheap but will last a lifetime.

Thats a fine looking model you are building there Chris

Such a beautiful build and yea it is a work of art!

Sorry all I should have replied sooner. I would like to thank Gerard as I have now been contacted by Ancre and they have been very helpful. I guess we are all busy people but Ancre have really stepped up for me and I cannot thank them enough. A very unique and niche company that supply the very best monographs. Cheers Ancre

Hi Seawatch and happy new year Any idea when you will be printing the physical copies of the TTFM books in 2025?

Fantastic build! Regarding the fairing of the rear frames I personally removed most of the material before installing them on the rising wood. I think your question is a personal choice I just thought that it's easier to remove large quantities of wood off of the model rather than on it. However I have read builds where the builder does it completely the opposite way around.

In that case I would magnetise the screws so that they stay onto the screwdriver. That should sort your problem.

I too changed my saw to a 18" table and I support all of what you say. Another benefit is that you can use the cross cut sledge without having to remove the fence. Just slide it out of the way. To fit the belt cover - the screws only need loosening and the cover slides rearwards and comes off. So if you remove your cover firstly put all of the screws into their locations on the saw but only loosely. Then place the cover over the belt and push forward towards the front of the machine. This locates it onto the screws and then you can tighten them fully through the access holes.

I think we need to use the machines that our pockets allow. wefalck's comments are spot on - however I have seen some great results using cheaper machines but the trade off is time and waste. Time is how long it takes to get it right and the cost of materials doing this is expensive. Afford what you can and maybe upgrade later

Hi - This is a very simple machine with sealed bearings. The drum is driven by a belt straight off of the electric motor so I would start with that. Remove the belt guard and just make sure that everything spins freely. If either the drum or the motor doesn't that will be your problem.

marsalv that is such lovely work especially the way you have fitted the planks into the rebate on the wing transom. That is as I have found difficult to get right so that they look square but you have it spot on. Very brave too with the amount of frames removed - I'm glad I've seen you do it as this is what I want to do with my next build. Happy Xmas and a very happy new year

Nice work and actually I think you have quite a lot to report. Building ships - even small ships take time and patience to get right. Lovely work mate and if it helps I found the fashion pieces very very hard to get right with nice contact to all of the relevant parts. Keep the update coming!

First planking I use 120 grit which I think is rough enough for any model. Don't go any smoother for than that for the first planking as it gives a great key for the second planking. You are trying to get a shape and not a finish. Second planking - well thats a personal choice as it depends on how you want your model to look. Some modellers stop at 180 grit and others will go very fine to maybe 800 grit. Its really up to the builder and the finish they want or are going to apply.

@vossiewulf Your knives are amazing and I think that knives like these are far superior to scalpels. They take commitment and skill though to make them effective - alas I don't have your skills and I have tried over a quite a period of time to learn. It's a skill I will never possess as I just don't have the patience. It's so easy just to load another blade into the handle.

Hi All I use something similar to these https://im3vet.co.uk/scalpel-blade-holder-round/ They are heavy in your hand and give great control using scalpel blades...........just my Pennys worth Mark

I think your approach to this build is fantastic with accuracy being foremost. The pictures are great too looking at the grain of the wood it's all just so in line with each piece. Lovely job and I hope that you are ok after your op. I'm looking forward to your updates.

The garboard plank on my current model is convex in shape along the wider frames. This gives it a really nice transition from the keel but is a bit tricky to make.

I wouldn’t run brass that thick through my saw. I would either cut it by hand or run it through my band saw

Incredible work 👍