druxey

Nailed it this time, Dan. Thanks for taking my criticism constructively!

There are almost always problems with the old plans because of either dimensional instability of the paper, or distortion in reproduction of the originals. Direct tracing will not correct this. In particular, different plans of the same ship will not match for this reason. This may be the issue that you have discovered.

Lovely work, Dan. However, to my eye the handholds on the prototype are of smaller diameter than your model ones. What do you think? The companion cover, however, looks terrific.

You exceeded yourself with the improved crowns and other detail work, Doris. Terrific! Dobri.

Well done on those tricky timbers, Adam.

Caramba!!!! I only expected the pins in their holes, not their chains as well, Dan. You've exceeded the challenge; which was only in jest, by the way! Well done. Now, what fiendish detail can I think of?

Many folk are either intimidated by the thought of carving or have had poor success when trying. An alternative method to consider is to build up the carved work using a bakeable modeling clay such as Fimo or Sculpey. Also, some modelmakers leave off all the carved work entirely. Don't limit your horizon by fear of carving!

Lovely craftsmanship, Giorgio. Glad to know your health is OK.

If you mean a scroll saw, the DeWalt model 778 is one to consider. It is a heavy-duty machine you should only need to purchase once. I've had mine, trouble free (apart from the occasional broken blade) for 12 years now, and it's cut not only a lot of wood, but metal as well. Of course, you will need saw blades specifically designed for cutting metal to do that.

You are right Jim: the one aspect of model-making that has enduring appeal is problem-solving. And there are always new problems to solve!

Yes, Castello is considerably harder. Pear needs to be handled carefully. One can get small dings out by applying water with a brush to them. Water will swell the wood locally and usually get the ding out. Sometimes, repeated application is needed Of course, it will mess up any finish on the wood, if present, and you'll have to refinish. Being careful is a better strategy.

Pardon my ignorance, but shouldn't they be ratchets for pawls rather than gear teeth? Or at that scale, does it matter?

Nice going so far, Jerry. Thanks for sharing your build.

Very nice going, Dan! But where are the retaining pins for the capstan bars? (Just kidding.)

English is very understandable, Tarjack! Besser als mienen Deutsch....

Viele danke, Tarjack!

Next, Michael will be forging those shackles!

Lovely looking job, Chuck!

Well, whatever works for you, Jim. I'll stick with chisels for now, thank you very much! Looks like you are progressing nicely. Good stuff!

Robert: great story about your preparation for building your model. The photo you've posted is a great tease: show us more, please. It looks fantastic!

Certainly the bottom of the shot lockers would be above the limber channel. I would have solid limber boards spanning the gap. Also, the cut-away on the lover side of the mast step could be larger. The outer edge of the angled cuts should end up at the rabbet for the limber boards. I agree with Greg. Does that make sense?

I believe boats were towed (other than in action) for ready use, Ian. It would take far too long to rig, hoist and lower a boat over the side in an emergency such as a man overboard. Also, open boats need to be kept wet to remain water-tight. My last model had two of the three ships' boats mounted so as to appear floating off the stern quarters. The third was rigged, ready to hoist from the waist.

Also boats were often towed. There was a swivel bolt in the wale under the mizen chain each side for attaching the boat painter to for this purpose.

Cabriole legs and all! Very impressive at 1:48 scale. Well done.

Sure, models like yours 'take a while' if they are built to your high standard, Michael!