druxey

Are you sure this is the same model??? You are doing an amazing makeover, Dan!

Very nice, Dan. It might be a good place to mention that BlackenIt will not work on pewter or Brittania metal. For pewter, use Pewter Black (not surprising, that!) and, as you've discovered it will work after a fashion on Brittania metal. I'm not aware of a specific blackener for Brittania. 

The result in the photo looks very good, Sam. Glad it worked out.

That is an excellent primer on soldering, Paul, and a very slick video production. Thank you for posting this resource.

Congratulations on reaching this point, Ed. That was quite a rapid progression, considering the number of frames involved. She looks beautifully sleek.

Of course, if you can afford the Cloud version of Adobe PhotoShop, the latest update has an impressive correction of motion blur feature as well as an advanced photo sharpening app. A tripod is much more economical, though, as Remco suggests!

Looking at your deck details, I keep having to remind myself that the scale is not 1:48 but 1:96! Very nice metalwork indeed, Nils.

Nice organization of your tools, Remco. I wish I could keep mine looking that way. So much sawdust gets into the drawers….

There were many 'feet' of different lengths in Europe prior to the metric system. An Amsterdam foot was different to a Swedish foot, and so on….

Kind of like the cherry on top…. Looking good, Dan.

Ouch! Bad stuff happens…. At least it's not irrecoverable. Look on the bright side: at least you proved yourself correct!

You might also want to consider The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV, from SeaWatch Books. It give step-by-step rigging of a sixth rate of the 1780 time period.

Beautifully executed, Nils!

You have been busy! The work looks beautifully neat and tidy. Very well done, Albert. (You can post images directly here if you click on 'More reply options').

It would be very difficult to cut in the upper edge of the rabbet once all the frames are in, as they will be on the way of your cutting tools. Try using a very well honed V-gouge. Take very tiny shavings off and correct any waviness with succeeding cuts as you deepen the rabbet.

A very good method you've got going there, Mark. The result will probably be more symmetric than the prototype!

Beautifully done at such a small scale!

Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.

Testor's site will bring up the Aztec line of airbrushes.

This is a lovely looking model of an unusual subject, Nils. Thank you for bringing this to our attention as well as the sad story behind the loss of both ship and your grandfather.

The Aztec is much easier to clean and you don't have to worry about needle care as much. The Aztec has small screw-in 'nose' units with the needle fully protected. Having also used Iwata, Badger, DeVilbiss and other conventional design airbrushes, I much prefer the Aztec.

That is a very clever method for ensuring symmetry of the half-frames, Ed. Adroitly managed!

One additional thought: In order to prevent  (or lessen) the possibility of the bit 'skittering' across the surface of the wood, file a small flat where the sheave will eventually be, then center punch. 

More absolutely beautiful work! You never cease to amaze us, Doris.

Looks legit to me, Dan.