druxey

Exemplary as always, Ed!

Alan: that drawing certainly shows that there was a tiny light room/cupboard, so there must have been materiel such as fuses and slow matches, etc. stored in the gunner's room on larger ships. In the carpenter's room example you posted, it looks more like a illuminating light to me. However, it does look ambiguous.

Aft deadwood looks very nice so far! I assume that the 'overhang' at the keel is fullness for insurance at the moment.

In what you have sketched, it seems likely that the helmport  transom tenons into the sides of the stern post. The curve down would be more of a dogs-leg, using naturally crooked timber. The upper deck transom does seem excessively wide. As a result, it might be of two pieces tabled together. Check the NMM 'Collections' site and look at  ZAZ1411 for another solution, as well as ZAZ1483, ZAZ1482 and ZAZ2098. This shows the curved beam ahead of the rudder/post and (presumably) a separate transom aft of the rudder head.

Exquisite work on the figures and costumes, Doris!

So far, so good, by the look of it. You will still need to 'prove' that all is fair later by use of proof diagonals. BTW, the usual spelling of the curve is 'sheer'. 'Shear' is where something solid splits apart from lateral forces imposed on it. Think of a pair of shears!

Access to these lanterns was only necessary from inside the room. The only place where outside access was essential was inside the magazine(s). Think about that for a moment!

Is the stock you are using too thin? Kind of looks like that from your photos. The card should not buckle like that, or be so translucent.

Unfortunately I don't know what became of that model, Greg. I believe Joe was still working on it when he died. I saw the model in about 2002, I think, at a demonstration he was giving at the Nautical Research Guild's annual Conference. I do remember it made a big impression on me. His work was up to Ed's standard. Perhaps someone else has the answer to your question. 

The late Joe McCleary once built a model with external strapping that was let into the framing - and a very neat piece of work it was. Of course, scoring frames from inside would be far more difficult!

Thanks for that link, Guy. Time was when you could find bronze wool at your local hardware store….

Love the 'melting' effect of those window munions!

There's illustrations of bucklers in The Fully Framed Model, Volume II.

The vent would probably angle away from the bulkhead and have air space above, to clear the deck head. The lanterns look terrific.

Beautiful, Ed. I dislike steel wool also. Have you tried to acquire bronze wool? Works the same way as steel wool, but without the disadvantages of ferrous particles. Harder to find than it used to be, though.

Well, that is a nice change for you as well as the kit market!

Your work continues to be beautifully executed, Alex. Thanks for sharing.

No, Alan. You need to set the keel horizontal on the building board, as the frames are erected at right angles to the keel, not the waterlines. Might I suggest you do some reading up on the subject as well? It will help you avoid some of the pitfalls that await the unwary.

Lovely, as usual!

Waterlines may be sloped or horizontal. It depended on the designer's intent. Some ships sailed with the keel level with the waterline, others were designed to draw more water aft than forward. In extreme cases (usually small ships such as cutters) the 'drag' of the keel was extreme.

The fact that Elephant was planned to trim with some drag aft is easily spotted on the body plan. The waterlines on the fore body and aft body don't meet at the centreline.

Nice strategy for the carlings, Toni.

Might I suggest a cross-spall or two across the outer counter timbers to reinforce them for now? That way, you might avoid snapping them off, which - as you've discovered - is so easy to do.

If you are considering using needle nose pliers, get really high-grade ones. I struggled for years with an inferior pair. Now I use a beautiful but expensive pair made in Sweden by Teborg. Sweet!

Be careful of plan distortion as you go! (This subject has been the topic of many other threads on this site.)

Lovely work, Rob, except for the bloodshed….

Asphalt or bitumen in varnishes or other finishes are a problem. These never fully oxidize of polymerize and remain slightly liquid. An example is in old oil paintings and furniture where the bitumen browns form an 'alligator skin' all across the surface. Other earth brown pigments do not do this.

Lovely work on your quarter galleries, Gaetan!