druxey

Nice clean carving and shaping, Dan. Looking good!

You are correct, Aaron. For planking to look right, it does need to lined out and spiled. I suspect kit manufacturers only provide stripwood because it is easier and cheaper for them. Also, many kit model makers are quite happy to plank a hull in a non-realistic way, so they don't demand sheetwood from the kit manufacturers.

That is very impressive indeed for a 'learner' model! I look forward to seeing your next project, Zbigniew.

Gun tackle blocks look very nice!

Very nice job on the model, Mario. Congratulations on completing her.

Now, that's a mast cap! Impressive saw work, Michael.

She's looking very nice so far, Rob. I like your method of setting up the fillers aft of the last cant frame and side counter timber.

In reality, those bolts went all the way through the side, but you don't usually see this on models.

Thanks, Jan. It's interesting to see different nations' approaches to the same problem.

Enjoy your new sander!

Hmm... I hate to have to admit it, Maury; I like the look of your treenail 'cheat'. Particularly after having driven literally thousands of real scale treenails myself. 

Many happy returns and best wishes for your retirement, Michael. And, particularly, many happy hours in the workshop.

Looking very nice so far, Dan. Keep those pictures coming, please!

Very nice made-to-measure gratings, Mark!

I should have mentioned that a washer (square in those days) was placed between the wood and forelock to prevent the forelock chewing up the wood.

In the classic 'wooden wall' days, the bolts were secured by a slip of metal called a forelock. There was a slot cut near the end of the bolt, parallel to its axis. The wedge-shaped metal slip was pushed through the slot and then bent over to prevent it dropping out. This meant that any bolt could be easily removed for replacement or repair when required.

No question is dumb! I've noticed that the surrounds to hatchways (don't fall down them!) and other obstructions on deck were often painted, usually red, then black on British contemporary models. This was as a safety feature in the dark or bad weather. One could easily distinguish the dark painted areas from the light deck color. I suspect that blackening mastheads and yards were done for a similar reason: to provide visual contrast with their surroundings.

18th century English ships' rudder coats were of canvas, presumably heavily tarred, Brian. They were nailed around the rudder head and the periphery of the rudder port. They would normally be a full-time item. Nailing one on in rising seas would not be an option!

You are having far to much fun. Those cranks look terrific, Dan!

Nice photos. It's interesting to note that the strop still attached to one block is not served.

I doubt if synthetic thread responds to moisture. Certainly natural cotton will. You need to experiment - off model!

RIP your disk sander. You are having a time with your power tools!

Three cheers for alcohol, applied externally!

Enjoy your time off, Toni. I like your hanging knee pattern-making dodge!

Looks like you are going to give the Annapolis Swan class model a run for its money with your chain pumps, Dan!