druxey

Get the outline of the counter drawn out using a piece of tracing paper. Then play around on the tracing until the spacing and slope of the lettering looks right. Transfer the design back on to the counter using transfer paper. This is like graphite paper, only comes in different colours, including white. One can find transfer paper at craft stores like Michael's. Then you are ready to paint with confidence.

Now you are having altogether too much fun!

Well done with the wheel, Dan!

Congratulations on reaching the milestone at the end of Volume I, Remco. Well done indeed!

This is all excellent advice. Thank you for expressing it so clearly, Alistair. This posting should be 'pinned' for reference.

The model makers there look like zombies: they've been at it far too long!

Did I ever mention palliasses? Did I? Well, you beat me to it, Remco. Now, about those fleas....

Joking aside, that is beautifully done. Congratulations!

Um... Nelson wasn't even born until 1758. Beautiful work as usual, Doris!

Your query about the ends of the sweep blades: these were bound in thin metal strapping for protection. The metal may or may not have been painted.

Looks delightful. You are a master in metal, Michael!

Ye gads! Lovely detail, Michael. Just as well she's not a three masted square rigger. You'd be building blocks forever!

Any takers, then?

Fairing is much like Whack-a -Mole: correct one thing, and another pops up! Eventually they'll all keep their heads down….

Yes: those diagonals will show up irregularities very quickly. In this case, you knew they were there already. By straightening out the kink, it will go a long way towards correcting the waterlines and sections. On the other hand, the smooth curve forward confirms fairness there!

Nice, Toni. Time to sling a hammock or two!

Is the bevel on the inner face in the correct place? Looks 'off' from what I can see in your photos. The widest side of the bevel should sit on the line of the pattern under it.

Beautifully done!

Your solution to the difficulty of carving thin pieces is one way of getting around it. I white glue thin pieces on to a backing board to carve them, then dissolve the glue with isopropanol when finished. Then, if the back of the carving needs work, I use fine files or sanding sticks to lessen the chance of breaking a piece off. As another person mentioned, boxwood is a better choice of wood.

Stay tackle, as shown in the illustration, are rigged conveniently above the fore and main hatches. Zeh has it right.

Slow and steady is good, Mark. This tricky area is working out very nicely. Looking very nice indeed!

Well, you certainly are tenacious, Alan! Glad you hit 'save' at intervals. Obviously more tweaking is still needed to - literally - get the kinks out. Running a couple of test diagonals might not be amiss, unless it overheats your software.

Sweet! Having recently learned repoussé techniques, I recognize some of the tools you've used to form the metal.

I imagine that the gun crew would not be just standing there during firing, but covering their ears with their hands!

Ah, you do make things with flare, Michael!

Smart move to check with calipers, but make sure you done't get cumulative error.

Hah! You were doomed, Michael…. 

I had a similar experience. Some years ago, my mother was down-sizing and came across a construction paper booklet. It was a 'diary' that I had made in school when I was about six years old. On opening this, the first entry read, in a very childish hand, "I am building a ship model". Also doomed.