druxey

The fallacy in your argument, Mark, is assuming that the round up is directly proportional to the with of the beam. A moment's thought will tell you this is not so. As the beam narrows, the 'fall off' of the round up is quite small. The wider the chord of the circle (i.e the width of the beam), the more rapid the increase in round up.

In the upper half of the illustration, twice the beam width is not twice the round up! The corollary of this idea is shown in the lower half. Hopefully this clears up your dilemma.

Not that I wish to influence you in any way, Remco, but a) a brick hearth would look really interesting and different and  I'm sure you could make a superb one. (He walks away, whistling nonchalantly…)

Mark: if you can find good linen line without slubs in it, either keep the source secret or just share it with me! Seriously, it's nearly impossible to find that quality any more.

Congratulations on your new project, Ben. You are off to a fine start.

It looks as if the lower deck was lowered forward to accommodate the galley. The notation on the drawing suggests that draught is very close to the 'as built' for Swan and Kingfisher. Remember that these two ships were the leading ones of this class, so the earlier type of galley would make sense here. It's a nice variation on the Swan theme - or is that the swan-song?

It's a nice compliment to your research and drafting that you are getting these requests, E&T. Do I also sniff a book in the making?

Fire hearth is what occurred to me also, seeing the 'U' shaped layout. As this was an extremely heavy item with its brickwork, etc, it makes sense that it would be placed lower in the ship that the conventional Brodie style stove. I concur with Gary. Also, the steam funnel would be necessary to vent the area in addition to the hearth's flue for smoke.

Good point, Dick.

In a word, gruesome! My sympathy to you, Dan, for taking the project on.

I use a very well sharpened 4H lead in a mechanical pencil. Thanks for your kind compliment.

As for "Do I paint? Don't I paint?", I have one suggested solution. Build two models!

The stern looks like it's shaping up well, Mark. I like your micro-adjustable support. 

Absolutely stunning, Doris. 

Thanks for your response, Dick. Your lovely model has certainly generated good discussion and thought! As for medieval rigging, good luck with that. I'm currently trying to sort out rigging from as 'late' as 1600, and that's tough enough.

Dear Dick,

Thank you for responding to my query. I agree that there are dark beam-end like squares shown in the Trombetta illustration. My (perhaps uninformed) impression is that these are small blocks of wood, perhaps nailed on, wedged between the heavier wale strakes. This may produce more longitudinal strength without adding too much weight. The deck beam ends shown on the topsides do not all follow the sheer of the ship, whereas the 'blocks' do, all the way forward and aft. Your theory may well be correct, though.

This is yet another place where I'd love to have a time machine!

Beautifully executed metalwork!

Your project is a fascinating one, Woodrat. Kudos to you for your reconstruction and interpretation.

One point, though: while the deck above the waterline would reasonably have the deck beams protruding through the sides, I am puzzled by the beams below water coming through: surely it would be impossible to keep the joints watertight with the working of the ship. Or do you know something I'm missing here?

This should be compulsory reading for everyone's health! Thank you for bringing the subject up again, Gaetan. Bonne nouvelle annee!

Off to a promising start! Very neat scarphing.

Getting those carlings to run smoothly is tricky. I use a flexible batten on the beams to mark out the run of them before cutting them in. You might try that. The example here is of the fire ship Comet of 1783.

That is first-rate work, Mark. Lovely! A happy New Year to you also.

Nicely rendered!

'Well' done on the pump rhodings, Gary!

Chuck is absolutely correct in his assessment.

Neatly done, Ma'am!

Both lime and basswood are rather soft, basswood more so. It would be more economic for you to use lime as you live in the U.K. You would have to handle this carefully as its soft qualities (as opposed to, say, maple or pear) mean it won't keep such crisp edges and corners. If you can still obtain unsteamed pear in Britain, I'd recommend that. I've used it in the past. It is much lighter in colour and not pinkish-brown, unlike the steamed or so-called 'Swiss' pear wood.

You're back!!! And how. This miniature interior work is exquisite, Doris.