druxey

Well back from working away, drilled and pinned all of the aft 7 cant frames to the deadwood and have started cutting out the final 6 aft cants.
Hopefully get a few hours tomorrow to start making them up.
 
Ben

Needs a bit of practice before you stop burning line too! Ask me how I know...

(Big smile: ...) however: Running the line over beeswax does not "eliminate" fuzz on it, just hides it. To really eliminate the fuzz, I clip one end of the line in a small clamp permanently fixed on my bench and while holding the other end with my fingers, run a really quick pass of a lighter flame over it. Every single line that goes on my ship, receives this treatment.
Just another option. 

Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.

Hi again to everyone following this log.  Thanks for all the support, comments and likes.
 
Here is the work that has happened in the last week.  I usually put two or more weeks of work into a log entry, but I am going on vacation with the family all of next week, and didn’t want to postpone it.
 
At the end of the last entry I noticed some symmetry problems at the bow.  The thin molding was low on the port side, and the starboard bulwark was too high.
 

 
Here I have corrected the problems.  I think that the fix is satisfactory, but I will continue to examine the model to see if there are any others that need work.
 

 
Next I started on the planking for the gun deck where it will be visible in the waist.  The insides of the bulwarks were planked just like the outer surface of the hull, with individual planks of birch veneer glued on with contact cement.  Planks were trimmed to cover the gunport frames and linings.   Treenail fasteners were done in the usual manner.
 

 
The planking of the deck in the waist is a little different.  Budriot’s plans indicate that the central section of the deck was made up of thicker planks than the rest of the deck.  The outermost of these planks were let into the deck beams beneath and are known as binding strakes.  They helped lock the deck to the deck beams and strengthened the entire core of the ship.
 

 
On the model I did not lock them into the structure so they are not binding strakes, but they are made of thicker stuff than the planks.  Examination of photos of contemporary French models in the Musee de la Marine (Budriot, Historic Ship Models)  indicates a pretty consistent look to this section of the deck.  The binding strakes and the gratings are dark, even painted black, while the central planking is lighter and matches the color of the rest of the deck planking.
 

 
I started with the gratings which I made earlier.  These were made on the English pattern, so I crowned them and set them down into the raised strakes so they are nearly flush.  These are the first of the early pieces to be permanently attached to the model. The binding strakes are cherry, like the coamings for the gratings, while the central planking is holly.   This is a veneer and was glued to crowned sections of basswood to match the curve of the gratings. 
 

 
Once this section was in place and pinned to the deck substrate, I drew the locations for the deck beams, starting with those at each end of the gratings and filling in from there.  They laid out with a pretty consistent pattern of 4 scale feet center to center.  
 
Now I used the holly veneer to plank outward from the center section.  I was going to saw up a bunch of individual planks and do the deck as I had done the outer surface of the hull.  But then I decided to try using one large sheet of veneer with the planks marked and scribed on.  After a satisfactory test piece was made I decided to go for it.
 
A paper pattern was made that fit the area from the binding strake to the base of the bulwark.  This was laid out onto a piece of holly veneer, but not cut.  Using a long metal ruler as a straightedge a series of 6mm wide planks were laid out on the wood.  With the veneer clamped under the ruler a pencil line was drawn with a 0.5mm mechanical pencil so all the lines would be a consistent width.  Without unclamping I scribed the line into the wood with two light passes using the back of a #10 blade.  The markings were made permanent with two coats of spray satin finish.
 

 
With the planks lined out I cut and trimmed the veneer piece until it fit snugly into the space from binding strake to bulwark.  I test fit the piece in place and lightly marked the beam locations onto the veneer.  Using the straightedge and a small square the butt joints were marked out, penciled and scribed as before.  I used a 3-step pattern with a 1-3-2-4 stagger.  I don’t know if this is historically correct for French ships of the period, but it looks right.
 
After a final sanding to smooth the deck substrate several coats of thinned contact cement were painted onto the deck and the veneer piece.  When dry the piece was laid in place and burnished down to the substrate.  This is a permanent bond, like a kitchen counter, but the treenails that will be installed doubly guarantee adhesion.
 
At the base of the bulwarks a margin plank, finish plank, and chamfered  waterway were installed.  They are cherry and contrast nicely with the birch of the bulwark and the holly of the deck.
 

 
Now all the fastening holes could be drilled.  Careening the model in the cradles gave me access without straining.
 

 
As with the hull planks, I used square treenail sticks pressed into round holes and clipped short, leaving just nubs of wood above the surface of the planks. 
 

 
When all the holes were filled they were painted with dilute white glue.  When the glue dried the nubs were cut off flush with a small sharp chisel.  The fastenings are birch which subtly contrasts with the holly without becoming overbearing.  The fastenings in the cherry binding strakes were made of walnut, also for a bit of contrast.
 

 
With the waist planked it will soon be time to work on the upper decks.  Here I have laid up the substrates for the three sections.  They are made up of two layers of 1/16” basswood glued over a curved form.   The laminated pieces held their shapes quite well after the glue dried.   Paper patterns were used to get the right outlines.  The pieces were cut on the band saw and refined with a bench disc sander.
 

 
With the deck pieces temporarily installed I fitted out the waist with cannon, the ship’s boat, and my figures. 
 


 
I don’t see anything when I examine the model or in the photos that looks obviously wrong, but my eyes are getting old and I am a bit biased.  If anyone sees anything, please tell me now while I can still get at it to change it.
 
Thanks
 
Dan

Druxey I have to draw the line __________________________________________ Not that I didn't try though;>))
 
Andy I thought you would approve.
 
Mark, I shall think on it for sure.
 
Greg Thanks,have you seen the film Grumpy Old Men, the sardine would make my wife a grumpy person:>D
 
Geoff, Thanks, I have not seen the book you mention I shall have a look for it, I am familiar with the Pilot Cutter Marguerite though.
 
Michael

Today I made mini pulleys. 
I really enjoyed making them

Thanks for the likes and compliments.
 
Maury, Michael, the brass was hard bent off the model. Although 0.2 mm bends quite easily, making 90 degree bends was done on my hold and fold. the other shaping was done with round nosed pliers. Final adjustments were done on the model.
 
Meanwhile the lower counter is planked but not yet faired.
 

 
Remco

With the cap rails in place, the model can now be worked in the inverted position.  This provides easy access for painting and installing the "Newsboy" figurehead:
 
>>> Figurehead was a casting from the original kit
>>> Painting was with Floquil lacquor and fine artest brushers
>>> Figurehead was securred with a fine pin and epoxy glue
 
My next postings will cover the design and installation of copper sheathing.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Shipmodelers,
 
As some may be aware, I am currently working at Vancouver Shipbuilding, North Vancouver, BC Canada.  The shipbuilding program is Canada's National Shipbuilding Procurement Strategy non-combat vessels.  Currently assigned ships include: (3) OFSV (fishery research vessels), (1) OOSV (oceangraphic research vessel), (2) JSS (underway replenishment ships), (1) Polar Icebreaker (large polar class 2 icebreaker), (5) MEMTV (mid-shore bouy tenders), and (5) Patrol (mid-shore patrol vessels).
 
My current position is Mgr. Production Engineering with responsibility for shipbuilding strategy, program build strategy, facility layout and tooling, design rules, design standards, and application of lean design and design for production.  As the shipyard has committed to implement world class design and construction processes, there is ample challenge here.  The ships will be built in large 200-300 ton modules (called hull blocks) and integrated machinery modules with construction is based on manufacturing principals.
 
Where possible, I try to apply similar principals in planning my ship model builds.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Geoff,
 
It might also be worth pointing out that the cable was not normally fastened to the anchor ring with a knot, as kit manufacturers would often have us believe. The cable was much too thick for that. The answer was to use a cable 'clinch', where the cable was passed through the ring and turned back on itself, in a bight or form of half hitch, and seized. You can see this on the Victory today:
 
https://www.google.se/search?q=victory+anchor+%2B+photo&client=firefox-a&hs=w8q&rls=org.mozilla:sv-SE:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&imgil=r_S2dMFo0lMLuM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcQWt0eYEsjkkeCbd1hgYWCfmPOmO--qrdhNakuLVWEg-vqUbmhLVw%253B744%253B558%253BjdAQZI-W4D3zHM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.maritimequest.com%25252Fwarship_directory%25252Fgreat_britain%25252Fpages%25252Fships_of_the_line%25252Fhms_victory_alex_cap_collection_page_2.htm&source=iu&usg=__6TWsMi7IAfDp0ErmaZGXGM2TZ7A%3D&sa=X&ei=bd5UU8iAGuTnygOc3oLoCg&ved=0CDgQ9QEwBA#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=r_S2dMFo0lMLuM%253A%3BjdAQZI-W4D3zHM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.maritimequest.com%252Fwarship_directory%252Fgreat_britain%252Fphotos%252Fships_of_the_line%252Fvictory%252F2008_07_22_alex_cap_f.JPG%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.maritimequest.com%252Fwarship_directory%252Fgreat_britain%252Fpages%252Fships_of_the_line%252Fhms_victory_alex_cap_collection_page_2.htm%3B744%3B558

Geoff,
 
Your anchor cable should definitely be of rope for this period.  The circumference of the cable should be 0.62 the diameter of the mainmast.
 
John

Next step was drafting/installing the ships name. Key points include:
 
>>> Stern name, hailing port, and bow name were developed using MS Word
>>> Stern name and hailind port were expanded (curved) to look properly when installed
>>> Bow names were raked to suit stem profile
>>> Bow names will be installed on spray rails (later in the construction sequence)
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

This posting will cover the pin rails, channels, cap rails, and installing the plankshear. Key points include:
 
>>> Pin rails installed to suit rigging plans
>>> Channels installed to suit run of shrouds and backstays (runs simulated w dowels)
>>> Cap rails fabricated from 3/64" sheet stock w scarf joints
>>> Caprails trimmed with 3/64" double bead stock
>>> Padding for anchor stowages was installed
>>> Interior bulwarks painted before installing cap rails and upper catheads
>>> Exterior hull painted before installing cap rails, upper catheads, and plankshear
>>> Forward cap rail left loose to suit installation of bowsprit
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Next up is the interior bulwark framing. Key construction points include:
 
>>> Timberheads were 3/32" x 3/32"
>>> Heavy framing forward where the stem rakes forward
>>> Catheads built in (2) pieces to follow paint line
>>> Framing for bulwark sheaves included
>>> Framing for mooring ports included
>>> Mooring ports fabricated from flattened brass tube with brass wire lips
>>> Hause pipes fabricated from brass tube with brass wire lips
>>> Chain pipes were fabricated from brass tube/sheet
>>> Wood/iron cleats included to suit rigging plan
>>> Construction/installition sequenced to suit paint boundries
 
Next steps include the pin rails, channels, cap rails, etc.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

One more post to finish off the deck planking. Key Points include:
 
>>> Planking fitted from the centerline working outboard
>>> Margin planks and nibbing worked from both the bow and stern
>>> Care taken to maintain a symetrical nibbing pattern P/S (select even width planks)
>>> Deck scuppers (5/32" thin wall brass tubing) drilled prior to fitting outboard planking
>>> Following completion of all planking; coamings, waterways, covering boards, windlass support planks removed for painting
>>> Planking finished with several coats of Minwax "Ipswich Pine" oil stain followed by multiple coats of Bartley's "oil based wiping varnish" ribbed down with ultra fine steel wool
>>> After finishing/painting; coamings, waterways, covering boards, windlass support planks were reinstalled
>>> Deck scuppers were installed from the outside and sanded flush (outside surface)
 
This completes the deck planking. As time permits, we will continue with the interior bulwark framing and finally finish off the cap rails.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Those straps are beautifully done, Remco.

Those straps are beautifully done, Remco.

Thanks all.
 
Yes Mark the rabbet was cut using chisels, as it curves in two directions no way I could do it on a mill.
 
The parts that make up the helmport are an interesting exercise in testfitting to get them right
 

 

 

 

 

 
The straps to the counter timbers were cut from 0.2 mm brass sheet and bend to shape, 0.4 mm brass bolts (actually a bit oversized) were used to glue the strips down
 

 

 
Remco

There is nothing magic about setting only the aft cant frames and then moving to the hawse timbers.  The large area of open real estate  simply makes it easier to fair the inside of the hull at the extremes.  Beautiful work.

Not much progress to show over the last few weeks.  Spring has finally arrived so the model does not get as much attention as it desires.
 
I decided to install the string at the waist and the forecastle and quarter deck clamps.  The string at the waist is a single row of planking with its lower surface forming the top of the gun port and its upper surface forming the top of the bulwark. It continues fore as the forecastle clamp and aft as the lower quarter deck clamp.  Hook scarves are used throughout. The apparent decorative element at the fore end of the quarter deck clamp will actually be used to help lock in the spirketing.   
 

 

 
The upper quarter deck clamp has simple butt joints.  In the pictures is appears that the lower edge of the string overhangs the gun port.  It actually is flush with the top of the port.
 

 
I encountered two problems.  First, I measured the height of the clamp at the stem incorrectly and had to replace it.  On the picture you can see a faint pencil line indicating where the clamp was originally positioned.  The second problem has the potential to be more serious.  I have two rows of planking with the top edge just coming up to the bottom of the aft port opening.  David's layout shows the planking runs above the level of the port with a chock connecting the planks fore and aft of the port.  At this point it is too late to change the port.  I think I measured the port height off David's mylar and the clamp height off the NMM plans.  Hopefully it will all work out OK.  The key is that the top of the opening is below the top of the deck beams.
 

 

 
 

Hi everyone,
 
Big event today. I started on the stern before Christmas, and today I finally glued everything except the upper and lower counter moldings and the two vertical counter timbers above the gun port cills. The moldings need profiles shaped before gluing, and the remaining counter timbers need a little more fitting. It is all looking shipshape!
 
Very, very slow progress on this. Good thing I am not doing this for money....
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

I'm not certain when it goes on display, as it was only delivered a few weeks ago, Joe. The Museum could give you more precise details about the model. I only got a brief sneak peek at it when visiting. 

I do and it still looks fantastic!   Very nice work Ben. Keep going I say!  

In surveying the machine carved hull; I found that the deck surface was too low, lacked adequate camber, and lacked shear forward.
 
This problem was corrected by fitting a deck framing system constructed from bass strip wood. After completing/fairing the deck framing system, the location of major deck structures were laid out. The mast holes were drilled at this time with the aid of a pedistal drill press.
 
In preparation for deck planking the following were fabricated:
>>> Hatch/house coaming were fabricated with half lapped corners
>>> Bowsprit, jibboom, dolphin striker, and Samson post
>>> Anchor windlass (used portions of a Bluejacket windlass kit)
 
With the heavy construction complete, future construction will turn to the finer points of deck planking, deck furniture, etc.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder