druxey

Hi everyone,
 
After many months, I was finally able to remove the jig today, and see the stern in all its glory.
 
I still have to trim the short pieces in the window sill area, and fair inside and out before finally gluing up and starting the transoms inboard. But it is definitely looking more like a real stern.
 
The whole thing is shockingly fragile. No wonder a broadside into the stern would just about finish the day....
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi, and thank you Pat!
 
a small update from the yard. I'm working on hinges and handles. Hinges are from black paper, rubbed with pensil to recieve metal look. Handles turned from brass nail. Now the photos:
 

 

 

 
Alex

pop by anytime Jay the tea kettle is always on.
 
One of my own little fantasies Bob.
 
Sherry I love working with both materials, the beauty of boat models is the variety of materials that one gets to work with.
 
Keith thank you for you very nice commentary about my build log. One of the most important things for me is to understand the how and why of what I am making and if my account of what I am making is helpful then the sharing is worth the time it takes. I feel so much more informed from all the amazing builds on this forum that my own knowledge expands every day I log in.
 
John Thanks for your kind words
 
Ah mark its all smoke and mirrors. Thanks for the compliment.
 
Today was a fun day I finally finished the main sheet attachment to the boom.
 
First I did a forging test with some 1/4 inch brass stock I necked down about 3/4 of an inch to about 1/8th leaving a 1/4 inch long full diameter at the end. this was annealed and forged on the railroad anvil four times to flatten out the end.
 

 

 
After seeing that the forging would work for what I needed, a length of 1/4 inch rod was cut to 2 1/2 inch length with the centre necked down to the 1/8th diameter.  both end were then forged to the same shape as the test piece on the railroad track anvil.
 
after bending the curve into the smaller diameter (if I were to make another I would make it about 1/4 inch shorter) the unit was set up in the vice for drilling. A block of maple the same width as the boom was sandwiched between the ends to support the brass flange while the holes were drilled and then counter-bored to create flats in the slightly tapering flattened flange. The centre hole is 1/8th to allow a brass Chicago screw to replace the pin holding the clew out-haul sheave.
 

 
next the hole was reamed to ensure they were aligned.
 

 
after clean up.
 

 
removing the temporary pin.
 

 
fixing the new tackle
 

 
Done
 

 

 
Michael

I had posted this last night but....
 
Again thanks for all the positive comments and for the likes.
 
Yesterday I finished up the deck part of the main sheet tackle. first I used some rubber like insulation from some heavy wire.
 

 
I slipped about 3/4 of an inch onto some 1/8th inch diameter brass rod and parted it off into some 1/4 inch long sections.
 

 
then made the small sliding part after grinding up a form milling cutter. after fitting it up I spent the rest of the day making the two single blocks and fitting them to the deck.
 

 
I swung out the boom to finish threading the rope plus I wanted to see how much rope I would need it turned out to be almost 18 feet, with about 1 foot laying on each side of the cockpit as part of that distance.
 

 

 
All I need to do to finish the main sheet control now is to add either a couple of cleats to the deck or to set in some bits and also to fit a proper bit of hardware to the boom.
 

 
I have also been looking at the whole way the rudder assembly is fitted and the way it penetrates the deck. The tiller attachment area is a bit small and I don't like the fact that it is fixed.
 
Michael

Thanks Chris and Michael.
 
cont...
 

 

 

 

 

cont.
 
Wall are not pasted. Set to a photo.
 

 

 

 

cont...
 

 

 

 

 

cont...
 
Thank you Alex and WackoWolf.
 

 

 

 

 

cont...
 
Thanks Mark and Michel.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Mark
 
cont...
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

On the board:

Thank you all for your kind remarks and for all those who pushed the like button.
 
I did a little work today on the bracket to hold the main-sheet tackle to the deck.
 
First some sketches after looking at a few on the web.
 

 
the block of brass was 2 inches by 1/2 inch by 7/8th inch. using a 5/16 ball end I roughed out the main block.
 

 
Then with files after the rest of the machining got the block to the final shape.
 

 
A little more work with finer files and some wet and dry sandpaper then a buff in the dremmel
 

 
A pin machined down from some 3/16th with a 2x56 thread for the cap end.
 

 
Next the central unit that will be sandwiched between some rubber buffers each side, that the shackle and lower block attach to.
 
Michael
 
 

I suspect "kindling" would be frowned upon below decks of a wooden ship ....

Any takers, then?

Fairing is much like Whack-a -Mole: correct one thing, and another pops up! Eventually they'll all keep their heads down….

Fairing is much like Whack-a -Mole: correct one thing, and another pops up! Eventually they'll all keep their heads down….

Fairing is much like Whack-a -Mole: correct one thing, and another pops up! Eventually they'll all keep their heads down….

Fairing is much like Whack-a -Mole: correct one thing, and another pops up! Eventually they'll all keep their heads down….

Fairing is much like Whack-a -Mole: correct one thing, and another pops up! Eventually they'll all keep their heads down….

Thanks Bob.
 
I finished up the triple block today.
The first picture shows the beginning of the second set of strapping for the outside of the three sheaves the inside one is already installed, these were bent up using some drill bits clamped in the vice to get the correct curves.
 

 
the next one shows the way I formed the second bend by reversing the direction this allowed me to bend the strip until the outside leg was parallel to the side of the block. a little tweaking was needed to get the exact width for it to slide easily into the slots.
 

 
The next one shows the set up for drilling through the rest of the wood and the brass bars after clamping the block to the wood table snug packing pieces of soft spruce were wedged into the sheave slots to prevent the drill from buckling the brass bars.
 

 
The next shows the code numbering on the spacers so that I could get them sanded and returned to the same locations within the stack.
 

 
Next the spacers were sanded to a consistent dimension using a simple jig, one for the top spacers and at the opposite end for the bottom spacers.
 

 
I checked that there was enough room for the 7/8ths rope.
 

 
The assembly was then glued together and given some final sanding and shaping.
The next picture shows how I made the cover plate for the shaft for the sheaves.
 

 
The brass shim-stock is .0015" the pencil is a 9H I drew the image in Corel draw full size at 1/4 inch diameter then mirror imaged it so that I could follow the lettering on the brass. the 9H is hard enough and because it is graphite there is a built in lubricant. it took a few tries scribbling the letters in reverse to get an acceptable rendition, (where's Leonardo when you need him?).
 

 

 
Now to make the bottom block which is a double, and then two singles to complete the main sheet primary tackle.
 
Michael
 
 

Yes: those diagonals will show up irregularities very quickly. In this case, you knew they were there already. By straightening out the kink, it will go a long way towards correcting the waterlines and sections. On the other hand, the smooth curve forward confirms fairness there!

I took the gratings out before painting/coating the decks. The cross parts are not beveled as they shall be (also not on the frame where they lay), but this is hidden/not seen on the model - so I did not make it.
 
Dražen
 

Stay tackles in conjunction with yard tackles would be used to sway out cargo from the holds.  The yards would be braced round so that the tackle was more in line with the hatch.  The tackles would be hooked to the load and the stay tackle heaved upon to hoist the cargo clear of the hatch.  Hauling on the yard tackle and easing off the stay tackle would swing the cargo over the side of the ship till the yard tackle bore all the strain.  Easing off all together would lower the cargo to the pier or the lighter alongside.

Beautifully done!
 
Your solution to the difficulty of carving thin pieces is one way of getting around it. I white glue thin pieces on to a backing board to carve them, then dissolve the glue with isopropanol when finished. Then, if the back of the carving needs work, I use fine files or sanding sticks to lessen the chance of breaking a piece off. As another person mentioned, boxwood is a better choice of wood.

may be of interest as part of your bag of tricks.  I find it indispensable.  Please read the description below the YouTube player for a link if you're interested in locating a source.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaXWFM6zbLc
 
Paul