druxey

Because of the server issue I went back and checked all of the photos in the build log.  It was necessary to repost  about a dozen pictures.
 
I have made and installed the hammock battens.  These are pieces of tooth shaped wood that attach to the beams just under the carlings.  Their function is to provide a hook to secure the hammocks.  I first made several strips of wood the correct dimension (2" x 3") and glued them together.  I set the height of the blade on the table saw to the depth of the notch and sawed all of the strips simultaneously.  The distance between the teeth is 12".  The piece was then put into a bottle of isopropanol and the individual pieces separated from each other after several minutes.  The interior and exterior edges were rounded off with files.  The nails attaching the batten to the beam were simulated with an awl highlighted with pencil.  I decided to only place these on the starboard side since I have not yet decided how much decking I will install on the port side.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have also finished the upper row of planks for the aft bulkheads.  They now extend to just below the beams.
 

 
 

Viewing this thread one can really get a feel for what it must have been like to be a crew member during those times.
 
I hope you consider adding at least one gun crew to this masterpiece.
 

 
Thanks
 
S.os
 
 

Planking from Cerry
 

 

 
Port and Starboard Serpents carved from Boxwood
 

 

 
 mij
 
 

mij

The rudder is cut from Cherry, all other items are cut from Box.
 

 
All items fitted to the decks.

Beautifully done!
 
Your solution to the difficulty of carving thin pieces is one way of getting around it. I white glue thin pieces on to a backing board to carve them, then dissolve the glue with isopropanol when finished. Then, if the back of the carving needs work, I use fine files or sanding sticks to lessen the chance of breaking a piece off. As another person mentioned, boxwood is a better choice of wood.

As promised a sequel to the last few threads. This openwork inset





 
Here was the difficulty. Part thickness only 2.8 mm, and the thread must be on both sides. Therefore, in areas of thinning turned very small thickness. And item several times I broke during operation.   I had to find a way out of the problem. Did so: the item consists of two halves. They became even thinner, but now they can be glued drops of glue on the bar and do as a bas-relief carving. And then glue it all together. Easy! Maybe someone is handy.  

Thank you all for the really positive comments it really means  great deal. and for all the likes.
 
The things that we are pleased with seem to be countered sometimes by those that we are not.
 
The fittings for the ropes through the bulwarks will be fine using copper.
 

 
The cap rail of the cockpit however is a different story, I am not happy with the way this has turned out. after sanding it to profile it was treated with Tung oil. the joints are way too obvious and the contrast is much greater than I anticipated. I will see what it looks like when the oil has dried but my guess is that I will still be disappointed. In that event I will sand it off and do it over using some slightly different steps.
 

 

 
The first thing will be to use solid material for the straight parts and re laminate some new corners. I think I will use either Maple Birch or Cherry, I will look at how each laminate up on the tight radius first.
 
Michael

Making progress on this little restoration. For the pix, I took the model off of the construction bar and placed it in the sea for a photo shoot. I still have to raise the topsail, do some more rigging work, sculpt and paint the sea around the model some, especially the wake.  
 

 

 

 
 
Presently  the cutter has no rudder, skipper or crew. perhaps that's why she has come so close to the rocks. I blasted away one that showed up in previous images.
 
S.os

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 50 – Port side ceiling continued
 
In the first picture some of the 8” thick bilge ceiling members between the forward and midship view ports have been installed and one of the lower members is being glued into place.
 

 
The next picture shows this area a bit later, unobscured by clamping.
 

 
Strapping installation has been proceeding in parallel and keeping ahead of the ceiling members and deck clamps.  The next picture shows the extent of the midship view port – left free of strapping.  The members marked “X” will be removed later up to the middle deck clamp.
 

 
In addition to exposing the inside of the lower hull, the view ports will also show the cross sections of the ceiling and other inboard planking and structural members.  A part of the ceiling cross section can be seen below.
 

 
Below is another view of the port side inboard area aft of midship.
 

 
Bolting of the bilge ceiling and deck clamps is keeping pace with the other work.  The next picture shows the area between the view ports drilled and partially bolted.
 

 
The bilge ceiling ends are easier to fit after the lower deck clamp is in place.  The next picture shows the aftermost section of the lower deck clamp being installed.
 

 
The strapping is nearing completion in this picture.  The next picture shows most of the strapping work completed.  A few lower pieces near midship have not yet been installed.
 

 
The outline of the aft view port can be seen in this picture.
 
 
Ed

As the hatches are in the midship plane I would assume that some sort of stay tackle would be used
as in this plate fron Steel's The art of Rigging
 
 
 
Hope it helps
 
Zeh

Hi everyone,
 
A little more progress. I used the jig to shape the quarterdeck transom, by gluing sandpaper on the upper surface of the jig to fair the transom to it. I also fitted three clamps to hold the transom in place while I marked the dovetails with the vertical counter timbers. The first photo shows the transom before dovetailing, set forward from the aft face of the counter timbers so the frames for the lights can fit flush between the vertical timbers. The original Bellona model shows this offset between counter timber and transom, and it  took me sometime to figure out; perhaps I'll do a drawing later to show this.
 
The second photo shows the counter timbers dovetailed into the quarterdeck transom. I only have to make the upper counter moulding, fair the faces of the counter timbers, and it is time to glue up! That will be another month at my current rate....
 
Mark

Hello friends.
 
 C  Gun - Deck      /  Equipment complete.
 
  8    Sheep-pen   -   Schafspferch
  9    Main hutch   -   Hauptluke
10    Bread - oven  -  Brotofen
11    After ladder (for crew)    -  Treppe nach achtern für die Mannschaft
16    After -hatch    -  hintere Luke
12    Lower barrel of main capstan   -   unter Teil von dem Haupt-Gangspill
 
Karl 
 
 
T e i l   44
 

hi all, thought for a long time but even so I decided to show his ship. I had planned to do a whole but made a mistake in the Assembly and grinding sawed off his nose and began to do as did Carl will try to put in the nearest time the process of building seems to be all I apologize for the translator
 
Привет всем, долго думали, но решил показать свой корабль. Я планировал сделать все, но ошибся в сборке и шлифования отпилили его нос и начал делать, как это сделал Карл постараюсь выложить в ближайшее время процесса создания, кажется, все прошу прощения за перевод 
, 

The following three groups of images explains the process I am using to fair my lines.
 
You might ask why am I creating a new lofted hull?
 
Although my first attempt was very clean (see image below with all connectors showing (those are the light blue points the computer tacks to the model to connect everything) I could not get my first or last station in the model.  I needed to add guide lines and didn’t know how. Three plus years ago I couldn’t model a simple pencil in 3D so I’ve come a long way.  The guide lines help the computer connect the various sketches (frames) made on all the different levels. In the end the stern sketch would not connect because the lowest guide line did not extend to it.
 
While learning how to do this I discovered my first lofted hull was easier than when I added the guide lines. Without additional mirrored guidelines on the other half the computer seemed to be confused and inserted connectors in the oddest places creating artificial wedges and twists in my model.
 
When I right click the mouse and pick show all connectors I can see connectors out of alignment and need to manually move them.  My final attempt (yes I had to do it more than once) had only one connector out of alignment…. As you will see.
 
Even though I have the lofted hull I think it is important to visually inspect Breadth and Buttock lines as they are more revealing than the lofted hull.  I could turn on what is called a Zebra line view to reveal pattern issues on the 3D image but it seems too much information confuses this old man

CREATING BUTTOCK LINES TO FAIR THE DRAWING
 
I created BUTTOCK LINES on vertical planes through the hull from stem to stern because I wanted to see how she faired as the original draughtsman might have done.
 
BUTTOCK PLANES
• I  created a second plane by offsetting the shear plane 0.56 feet which happens to coincide with most station line termination points in the rabbet
• I then created additional planes by offsetting them at 10 feet each
• I then sketched polylines on each individual plane (buttock lines of my own making) and locked them (pierce mate) at each point they intersect with a station
o Peirce mate by picking the station line, hold down the “Ctl” key and pick the polyline point (*) I want to mate to it, then pick “pierce” mate.  The point then locks to the line where they intersect on the plane.
o While doing this I found two errors in my sketches and as importantly can easily see irregularities in my lines!
 

USING THE SOLIDWORKS LOFT FEATURE TO CREATE THE SOLID HULL
 
This is my second (or really fourth) go at this.  I admit that even after having received good advice from forum members I still had to watch three videos to “get it”.
·         Created four guide lines using 3D sketch
·         Locked the lines to points on each section using “coincident” or “intersect” type mates
·         Opened the Loft Feature and picked four station outlines and all four guide lines
·         When these resolved I rebuilt and saved the file, luckily as my computer crashed twice near the end. Without the saving ritual I would have lost everything.
·         Note that the starboard side does not have guide lines and so has some extra waviness to the hull.  I had manually made some adjustments for show afterwards but mainly I am just looking at the port side (with the guide lines).
 
Although I can see the divit in the hull at the stern the bow seems good ... not so in the earlier Buttock line review.

I imagine that the gun crew would not be just standing there during firing, but covering their ears with their hands!

Hello folks,
 
here are some pictures from tie the blocks and hooks
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 

 
 

it is much happen but unfortunately not much to see.
Blocks are tied and secured to the side walls.
The carriages are currently being completed with trunnion straps and securing pins
Here some pictures in unannotated sequence,
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
Have fun
 
 

Flash or no Flash? 
 
We often hear that we should not use the flash for our modelships. Flash is a hardlight which produces hard shadows. One way to correct this is to diffuse that source of light. Photographs use umbrellas and softboxes. This week I tried http://www.garyfongestore.com/   lightsphere. It is like a white transparent plastic installed around the flash. It acts as a lamp shadow. Here are examples of pictures taken with the flash and the lightsphere.  Except for the middle one, that I intentionally kept even if it is over exposed in part, results are interesting and color rendition is close to what we see with our eyes. We can see oiled and natural cherry.  In the last picture, beams are cut so that we can see the cherry grain ‘’nice side’’.

Experiences in photography.
 
Working table, there is a 45 degres check on the left, because I use the saw with the left hand. This is very useful when clamping greatly improves workability angles.
 
After 3 months on working aft, it is time to change and come to work fore, just to give a better idea of the model exterior shape, but before I needed all the beams.

Here are some notes from internet;
asphalt must be applied in thin layers .
It is not recommended in thick application (dry to hard).
Not recommended with linseed oil, the reaction with linseed oil induces at long term crack and separation.

Thanks all for the kind comments.
 
 
I did, at 1200 dpi it managed to keep the font readable. A couple of years back this wouldn't be possible on a home printer.
 
So back to the more mundane cabin building. The doors have louvered openings, the rest is pretty straight forward but involved a lot of testfitting. alle the bulkheads are assembled off the model as this was easier to build. 
 

 

 

 
It's getting pretty crowded on the deck and there is more to come, a pantry, the bitt's and pump's
 

 
Remco

I imagine that the gun crew would not be just standing there during firing, but covering their ears with their hands!

Ah, you do make things with flare, Michael!