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druxey reacted to Mirabell61 in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
Build log part 6
hold rim with removable hatchcovers
raw Forward mast
crows nest, the Access ladder from deck not fixed yet
take up Points for swivel loadbeams
after some paint touchups ...
plymsol marking at waterline
marking of Name and Registration port
These 3 pics..., quite pleased with the results so far
Build log part 7 to follow
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druxey reacted to Stockholm tar in Looking for a rigging book
Eddie,
As Wayne indicated, although Petersson's book is good I'm not sure it should be relied on it completely, without referring to other reputable sources.
The very drawing Modeller has illustrated, shows the mizzen topsail and topgallant braces leading via the gaff, down to a belaying pin on each quarter. Most of the other sources I have read, indicate that the mizzen braces led forward to the main mast, often crossing to the opposite side of the ship to obtain better leverage. Petersson might be sure of the way Melampus was rigged, but one can't take it that others ships were rigged the same way. And if you're unsure about that...
Therefore, it's probably best to consult other reliable sources as well, such as Lees, etc.
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druxey got a reaction from Bindy in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
This is a lovely looking model of an unusual subject, Nils. Thank you for bringing this to our attention as well as the sad story behind the loss of both ship and your grandfather.
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druxey got a reaction from clipper in HMS Montague 1779 bygaryshipwright - 74-gun Alfred-class
You can manage soup, Gary? That's good enough to be a ship's cook. You're pressed!
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druxey got a reaction from james c lusk in Learning Rigging
Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.
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druxey got a reaction from AntonyUK in Naval Cutter Alert by AnobiumPuncatum - Scale 1/36 - POF
It would be very difficult to cut in the upper edge of the rabbet once all the frames are in, as they will be on the way of your cutting tools. Try using a very well honed V-gouge. Take very tiny shavings off and correct any waviness with succeeding cuts as you deepen the rabbet.
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druxey reacted to Mirabell61 in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
Build log part 5
for making the stand Posts I use brass candle holders (found on flee-markets)
the anchorchain port reinforcements are fitted
begin... rivited structure to deckhouses and hatch rims
further Fitting out
midship deckhouses, on deck inbetween the coal bunker hatchcovers
forecastle compartments
so far well under way...
workdecks ready for priming, painting
the figures are scale 1:100
the portside depth indications are in Roman figures
Build log part 6 to follow....
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druxey reacted to Mirabell61 in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
Build log part 4
characteristic for These old steamships are the large vents, necessary more than ever when going through hot,tropical zones of calm sea...
Here is to give my Version of the vent Hood making..., and the main masts, and crows nest
sizes and types of vents
an Arrangement of inlet and outlet vents
prefit check with the decks
application of primer after soldering and cleaning the brass surfaces
was quite a bunch of individual parts
inner Hood surfaces have their own color
as well as the outside surfaces
Forward and aft mast
do not throw away your old dome-nuts, they serve for exellent venthoods
especially those where the dome Shell is made and brased on of thin pressed sheet
Build log part 5 to follow.....
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druxey got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
Beautifully executed, Nils!
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druxey got a reaction from dgbot in Naval Cutter Alert by AnobiumPuncatum - Scale 1/36 - POF
It would be very difficult to cut in the upper edge of the rabbet once all the frames are in, as they will be on the way of your cutting tools. Try using a very well honed V-gouge. Take very tiny shavings off and correct any waviness with succeeding cuts as you deepen the rabbet.
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druxey reacted to dgbot in Best airbrush for use on acrylic based paints
The secret to mixing acrylic is the consistency of skim milk
David B
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druxey got a reaction from WackoWolf in Learning Rigging
Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.
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druxey reacted to SJSoane in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Thanks, druxey and Gary, This construction is all the more amazing when you see how big these pieces are in relation to my captain.
For those looking very closely, you will see that the center timber is temporarily coming down onto the top of the sternpost. It will be cut away for the rudder hole, but I wanted to anchor its lower end while shaping everything.
Mark
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druxey reacted to Mirabell61 in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
Building log part 3
brought on White primer coating and Sub waterline red
the last Picture where the hull is still fixed to the baseplate. The upper hull portions shall be plated and painted when the decks have been permanently mounted
hull seperated from baseplate, all went well, no Twist, no destortions
extreme lightweight hull, prop- and ruddershaft already mounted, superstructure for deck Support can be seen
riged structure in forecastle area
decks made from 1,5 mm thick 4-layer Aeroplywood
the Forward maindeck, 3 hatches, and the quite Long poopdeck, 2 hatches,(working decks) are going to be metal plated. These decks were of steel plating due to rough cargo handlingand overcoming heavy seas. The cardboard template behind hatch #4 Shows the riviting pattern for deck plating
hatch # 1 behind the forecastle bulkhead
bow section before finalizing the decks and the final plating
raw workdecks mounted, midship deckhouses started, hull painting done and forecastle bulleyes mounted. It`s now slowly looking like a ship should be...
Build log part 4 to follow.....
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druxey got a reaction from mtaylor in Learning Rigging
Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.
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druxey got a reaction from russ in Learning Rigging
Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.
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druxey reacted to SJSoane in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Hi everyone,
I have started construction on the stern. The first images show constructing the transom at the quarterdeck into which the vertical timbers will dovetail. When I taped it in place in the third image, I realized that there were too many parts in motion, and I would need a jig to keep it all aligned.
So the next images show a jig at the location of the stern lights. The most important thing to keep straight in this construction is the equal spacing of the stern lights. The jig represents the windows themselves, with the correct round up and round aft, and the locations of the vertical timbers. I then cut slots for the timbers into which I could locate them while shaping them. I did not have to work very hard to create the right bevel; I just filed the aft faces flush to the jig.
You will also see that I initially mounted the jig on a right angle fixture over a slab of granite. This allowed me to use a flat, parallel surface from which I could construct the radiating lines for the vertical timbers with a drafting triangle. Once I found the correct angle on one side, I could flip the triangle and draw exactly the same angle on the opposite side. That kept everything perfectly symmetrical from the center. I initially tried to do this while the jig was located on this ship itself, and there were too many things in the way.
Still lots to do...
Mark
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druxey reacted to Omega1234 in Dorade Omega1234 - FINISHED - yawl
Hi everyone
It's been a while since I last posted some progress photos, but, here are some of the latest photos of the rigging. I try to take better photos later, but, at least they give you an idea of where things are at.
Hope you all enjoy them, but there's still more work to go.
Cheers!
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druxey reacted to garyshipwright in HMS Montague 1779 bygaryshipwright - 74-gun Alfred-class
Thanks Mark. It does make one stop and think till you been on a air craft carrier which had a crew of 7000. Try feeding that many guys. That is untill you find out that they had three kitchens that usually work 24/7. Had to work in one for two weeks when I was on board the Midway. Lots of fun for sure.
Hi Larry.Thank you sir and am glad that my log is a help to you. I was going to ask Larry but have you started a build log and would love to see your Alfred on here. Now if I understand your question your asking about the grating/deck planking on the orlop deck around the pump well? As far as grating on this deck am not sure that other then in the middle were hatches would of been may of been the only place for grating, which probably been flushed with the planking. Most of the plank's would of been short and fitted in to rabbets on the forward and aft edges of the top of the beams, which could be removed in order to get at the supplies in the hold. If I was going to plank it I would have just cut short planks to fit between the beams. They did also fit carlings and ledges between the orlop beams to help strengthen the short planks between the beams but I didn't install them also. You may of miss this detail on the orlop deck so have included a photo showing the rabbet. Peter Goodwin in his book Sailing Man of War, show's on page 59 fig 2/8 how the planks would of looked accept I do believe they would have been flush with the beams. Keeps one from stubbing a toe that's for sure. Hope this is of some help Larry. If it doesn't answer you question let me know and we will come up with the right answer.
Gary
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druxey reacted to Mirabell61 in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
Build log part 2
planking completed, rudder and sternpost reinforcement mounted, minimized Polyesterfiller where necassary, and poopquarter knee-whale attached
impressions of rudder making components
the five blade prop is only an interim solution, a four blade historic prop with blades bolted-on the central hub is to follow later
here first time experience Begins with metal plating for hull
The hull wooden surface is sanded smooth and fixed with quick dying transperant liquid filler, which drys off quickly leaving a real smooth and shiny surface on which the self-adhesive Aluminium foil sticks like hell. No Problem with roll-embossing the foil plates from the rear plate side, because the rivit immitations are roolled-in before the protection foil on the plate rearside is removed, giving free the glue film.
Workstation for making the plates
leave a gap between first and second plating line, the third plating line is set by overlapping the edges of first and second line
Note : vertical rivit Joints have 4 rows of rivits, horizontal Joints have 2 rivit rows
plating nearly done, the whole hull is still mounted to the shipyard baseplate
Mounted into the keel are two reinforced M5 female threads for the later to be mounted stand-bolts
the upper hull portions have not been plated yet
soldered, full functional mounted rudder before plating, shaft going through to poop deck
here the upside down 135 cm Long hull is nearly ready for seperating from the baseplate, it is very stiff, riged and of lightweight
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druxey got a reaction from Jaxboat in Best airbrush for use on acrylic based paints
The Aztec is much easier to clean and you don't have to worry about needle care as much. The Aztec has small screw-in 'nose' units with the needle fully protected. Having also used Iwata, Badger, DeVilbiss and other conventional design airbrushes, I much prefer the Aztec.
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druxey got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
This is a lovely looking model of an unusual subject, Nils. Thank you for bringing this to our attention as well as the sad story behind the loss of both ship and your grandfather.
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druxey reacted to reklein in Best airbrush for use on acrylic based paints
I have the Aztes too and as airbrushes go its the best I've used. My Aztec is the metal bodied one with interchangeable needle assemblies for different paints. An assembly for acrylics is important here as acrylics act differently than solvent paints. Unless you open a T-shirt shop you'll hardly ever use your brush more than just a few minutes. BILL
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druxey reacted to Mirabell61 in Heinrich Kayser 1898 by Nils Langemann - FINISHED - scale 1:96 - as she appeared in 1922
Steamship Heinrich Kayser
Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann
The steamship Heinrich Kayser was launched in 1898 baptized to its birthname „Elbing“ and was one of the typical new fast merchant vessels built for the D.A.D.G. (Deutsch Australische Dampfschiffahrts Gesellschaft) shipping company at the FSG shipyard in Flensburg, northern Germany. It served the trade route Europe via Cape of Good Hope or via Suez Canal and the red sea and across the Indian Ocean to several Australian Ports together with her sister ships on regulary basis for many years.
After WW1 and in compliance with the Treaty of Versailles demands the Elbing went under command and management of a british shipping controller, from which the “Elbing” was bought back again by the Hamburg based Kayser & Sohn shipping Company in 1921, which renamed the vessel to “Heinrich Kayser”. In 1922 my grandfather was appointed as the master in command on its last fatal voyage from England to the US eastcoast, down to Florida and back touching Norfolk Virginia as last port and thereafter went down with all aboard her in a heavy full gale and with broken rudderchain and broken hatchcovers. The last SOS radio signals came from position of the New England Seamount Chain, some 500 miles off the US eastcoast where the Atlantic is 5000m deep. No survivers, not a trace was ever found. This type of ship was a mere cargo steamer of 5600 tons, which may have been able to accommodate 2-3 passengers, midships. The Heinrich Kayser was capable of cruising at max. of 12 knots with her twin-boiler arrangement in tandem setup, and having appr. 20 firemen (stokers and heaters), working in shifts to keep the boilers at pressure accordingly.
I built this model, which is already completed to date, after a shipyard overview plan in honor to my grandfather and all its 43 souls crew and three passengers.
It is only a couple of weeks ago that per incidence, and 91 years after that foundering, on a raised web forum thread I was able to take up contact with an american lady, who`s great grandmother as well as her great aunt have been on board the Heinrich Kayser at that time and lost their lives as passengers way back in 1922
The build log shall comprise probably 21 individual parts due to limit of pics per post, and shall document all building sequences in pictures. Comments, questions, etc. shall be welcome and answered along with the build log as it grows.
The model took me appr. 1800 manhours to build over 2 years including the search for a plan, new modeling techniques like metal- plating /”riveting”, soldering, glass-case making, all trials, etc.
The fully completed model can be viewed in my album (steamship Heinrich Kayser) under topic : Gallery of completed scratch built models
Have fun and enjoy whilst studying this oldtimer steamer of 1898 in its buildup
Nils
Here it Begins.....
Build log part1
this is one of the ship under its birthname "Elbing"
this is one of the very last Pictures of the Heinrich Kayser
overview plan frontsection
overview plan aftsection
stringers and single-layer planking in pine
planking under way, propshaft built in
Frame plan, self drawn, not included in overview plan
planking nearly completed
Part 2 to follow....
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druxey reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24
A little update for this Friday, I did retouch horizontal curving alignment of the tiles for the windows, I still will have to do some realignment. Now working on port and taking pictures give no mercy. On the second picture I draw a red line to show that some realignment will be needed. Nothing is glued yet, so that realignment can be done when necessary. It is easier to see on a picture of the model than on the model itself.