druxey

Many folk are either intimidated by the thought of carving or have had poor success when trying. An alternative method to consider is to build up the carved work using a bakeable modeling clay such as Fimo or Sculpey. Also, some modelmakers leave off all the carved work entirely. Don't limit your horizon by fear of carving!

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                  rekon54

If you mean a scroll saw, the DeWalt model 778 is one to consider. It is a heavy-duty machine you should only need to purchase once. I've had mine, trouble free (apart from the occasional broken blade) for 12 years now, and it's cut not only a lot of wood, but metal as well. Of course, you will need saw blades specifically designed for cutting metal to do that.

The barrel staves were machined to take the brass rings and plates
 

 
The  ratchet was milled using the same 30 tooth gear as a guide that was used to make the gear for the roller reefing, I just indexed it 2 teeth at a time to give 15 teeth on the ratchet.
 

 
The section that is for the anchor chain was made with individual strips spaced around the maple formers, as I glued the last piece on I realized that I had missed the middle former and looking closely I also realized that I had made it a bit uneven so tomorrow I will cut some new discs and staves and redo that end. adding the middle one so that when it comes to adding the bolts there will be the three formers inside.
 

 

 

 
I will soft solder the discs to the gear
 
Michael

some more pictures of the bow after performing a little sanding and shaping

After working one half of the bow I needed a break so I began framing starting at the stern.

Here are some more pictures of the cant frames. These gave me a bit of trouble due to the multiple tapers on them and I ended up making several of each piece before getting some I was happy with.

Next comes the cant frames forming the bow. I did a short video for Jeronimo that illustrates how cant frames for the Richard are laid out, cut, and placed on the model. The link is here 
.A lot of ships from this period had cant frames and bows constructed in a similar manner so the video might be useful to reference.

Some more pictures of the bow area

Hi, here are the latest picture of the Banterer. I'm building together with my father. The first three picture show the first "sea trials" last summer:  
The following pictures show the status of teh mechancis in January. The Set up of the main and mizzen mast will change as the combined mechanics proved not being reliable:
 
 
Best regards
   Lami
 

good day not finding the desired page may be looking for bad decided to create a new Leave to the court several types of stoves all of them will be installed in the Bonhomme Richard 1779 which I quietly building a scale of 1:48 am sorry the process of building't take pictures only ready to view if you have proposals and comments with a great pleasure will be interesting to see who else is doing it, Anatoly
 
добрый день не найдя нужной страницы может искал плохо решил создать новую Предоставляю  на суд несколько видов печек все они будут установлены в Bonhomme Richard 1779 который я потихонечку строю в масштабе 1:48 извиняюсь процесс построения не фотографировал только готовый вид если есть предложения и замечания с удовольствием приму было бы интересно посмотреть кто как делает это Анатолий

 

Well, an update on the Stag at last.  I didn't get a lot done yesterday as we are in the middle of school holidays at the moment and the museum was crowded with families - always fun when you're surrounded by a mob of kids asking questions about your model.  At one stage I dropped a needle on the floor and had a group of kids crawling around the floor searching for it for me (they found it, too)!
 
I've finally started rigging.  The standing rigging of the bowsprit it done and I've made up the sets of shrouds ready for seizing in the deadeyes.  The lower mast is also permanently fitted now awaiting shrouds.
 
 It's usually at about this time in a build that I get really paranoid - always thinking that I might have forgotten to rig something essential before going on to the next stage, but even so I love rigging - even ratlines.
 
I remembered that Pat had asked for a photo with a ruler against the model, so one of the photos shows my trusty six inch rule against the base.
 
John
 

mylords and ladies,
enough with wood glue, sawing and sanding ....... Bone-ahead signals the lookout.
 
A close view of my workbench
 
   
To get to the processing of the bones feeling I have made the Upper deck.
So make a template from plane plywood (again wood * grmmmpf *) transferred the outline on it ;Sawing planks;
(but now - from bone) ..... the sawdust was indescribable.
I looked like a miller .. and also my workshop!
So first all systems on standby!

Extraction system built from old sucker rod and again from the beginning ......... after 2! Days.

Without vacuum cleaner you should consider the bone saws. I could continue to work clean workshop after 2 days.
To get an idea, just for the big deck were 15! Bone tubes processed. The usable portion of planks from a bone tube is fabulous 15 - 20% of the rest goes through the kerf and waste.
Was sawn and is still a "Mödl-saw" with ordinary 2.4 hp motor;

The bars on the copied template glued on top (waterproof glue).
Openings for gratings; mast guides; etc. release or produce naturally.
The deck is cut in half lengthwise amidships, - So the deck to fit seamlessly later-
The finished deck with blank template on the plywood gluing (glue)
Unless it was still quite good ... but the grind-smooth the surface-to be practiced.
Luckily I had enough material to do so.
The second lucky circumstance was the lively sympathy of my modeling buddies. (Augsburg and Munich modellers group)
The experienced there tips and suggestions have contributed to the success of the start-up phase.
The most important tool is the abrasive belt grinding of Boehler (now "Kaleas" minitool)
 
http://www.kaleas.de//kaleas.cgi?action=show&sessionID=17508566136639363317508566〈=de&page=shop-produktliste.html&cat=32&subcat=3230&catname=Schleifen,%20Hobeln&arcode=x).
The second most important "Smoothing" are glass; ... yes glass.
I use a very long time after the removal of wood! the final sanding with 600 grit sandpaper, glass blades.
The best glass blades obtained from slide mount. The glass in the frame can squeeze out quite easily. One can also use this laboratory glassware. Available in every medicine trade. The glass is held at an angle to the direction of pull and pulled under LIGHT pressure on the wood surface. (Practice, practice, practice, practice, and again ...... practice, practice). So that the wood surface is smooth as a babyskin
And this system works amazing on bone surface!
 
   
Therewith, the main question was answered: The famous smooth surface bone models.
 
The deck in the deck cabin has received a special medallion.

On the drawings in the AOTS book "Royal Yacht Caroline 1749" by Bellabarba is a highly complicated deck to see. However, the author did not mention that a carpet! is.
To lay a carpet there was too profane for the model. So I incorporated a circular medallion with eight-pointed star in the center of the deck.
The rest goes around the outside radiating off to the sides.
The rays and the angular elements within the circle were made on the circular saw.
For the rays I made a saw mask.
This template is ensured that the individual strips are cut at the same angle.
Thus, the interior elements are easier to see, the edges are blackened before the glue along with Plakafarbe. The curves were the first challenge in this model. (Seen after the inside., Ridiculously.)
That this deck is not created in an afternoon, is obvious
 
 

 
 
   
 


The deck in master cabin needed five times more time. The black elements are made of ebony.
Chic ...or?
 
 
 
The comment from my Admiralty:  "will be whole model so elaborate?"
Answer:  No, that's nothing compared to the rest of the yet to come.
Admiralty  "must be?"
Answer: You were such a model, so calm in the forepeak.
Admiralty: "Do you want a coffee, I think it takes longer"
yeah... yeah.... the very best of all wives has a humorous slant............

After the top surfaces were finished were also the side walls are covered and also the outside paneling was mounted above the mountain woods
 
      

Already at that time I was absolutely overwhelmed by the bone material.
One does not believe that fine tuning can be done with bones. However, any blunder is clear to see. With quasi Note arrow on the "malus operandi"  as the Finn would say ... or was it the Swede?
Since then helps only back to the workbench and the defective part inside the box of Memories - (at times when the hand was faster than the artisan mind).
 
 
 
Back to the topic.

Thank you very much John, Janos, Doris, Amfibius, and Adeline - I'm glad you all appreciate the effort gone into this piece. It's been a heap of fun building it .
 
Almost finished with the Capstans - I've fitted all the bolts. There are 10 brass ones (they should be iron, but I've used brass so they can be seen) in each reinforcing ring, as well as the 0.35mm holes for the bar retaining pins. The pics with the sidecutters give you an idea of how small these "bolts" are - the last one to be fitted is lying on top of the drumhead in one of the pics.
 
I've used blackened brass "bolts" for the remainder.
 
 





 
  Danny

In reality, those bolts went all the way through the side, but you don't usually see this on models.

This past weekend I worked on the floor timbers as well as the cross chocks and first futtocks. I laid out the cross chocks in such a way that I could get the most work done with a minimum of set up changes, primarily on the mill. The following photo shows how I laid out the cross chocks to be cut. Once I rubber cemented the templates to the billet I made one long cut along the bottom and when I got to 5F-CC I cut this piece off.
 
Now I had a narrow strip of wood with the 6 cross chocks in it. The next step was to cut up into the rabbet in the center of each chock. I did this on the scroll saw and made a number of cuts into each rabbet so what I ended up with was a number of very thin fingers sticking up – the look was that of a very tiny feather board.
 
You will also notice 2 red arrows pointing to chock 1F-CC, I’ll explain those with the next photo.
 

04-16-13a
 
In this next photo (04-16-13b) I’m milling the rabbets. I kept all of the chocks connected for this step as  it’s easier to position it in the vice. To make my cuts more precise before I put the strip in the vice I used a #11 X-Acto blade to cut the paper template exactly on the lines that define the rabbet. You can see that here where I marked the cut lines in red. By cutting away the paper template I eliminated the fuzz that often appears when mill through the paper to get to the final line. With the template out of the way I was able to mill the rabbet with very tight tolerances.
 
In the first photo I had 2 red arrows. These point to the top shoulder of each chock. When I put the long strip in the vice for milling I used these two points to accurately set up a level line for milling for each individual chock. With the work now square in all directions (I used a dial indicator to make sure) I milled the rabbets. You can see at the right side of this photo a completed rabbet, the middle is in the process of being milled and the one on the left is next.
 

04-16-13b
 
After milling all of the rabbets I test fit them to the keel to make sure the depth was correct and also that the center of the chock fell exactly over the centerline of the keel.
 
You’ll notice that I left a lot of meat at the top of the chock and also the sides and that I didn’t cut the angled parts yet. I did that later.
 

04-16-13c
 
The next task was to cut the first futtocks. Using the labeling system I talked about earlier I marked up all the futtock templates, cut them from the frame diagrams and rubber cemented them to the billets. Layout was done to conserve wood and also minimize the cutting needed. In a number of cases I was able to place the templates close enough together where a single cut served as the bottom cut on one piece as well as the top cut on the one below it.
 

04-16-13d
 
Here are the floor timbers. They were cut out using the same process as I used for the first futtocks. You can see that I again cut tiny slots where the rabbet will be milled.
 

04-16-13e
 
I milled the scarph joints in two steps because the two faces do not meet at a 90° angle. Using my X-Acto knife I again cut right on the line for shoulder and face of the scarph joint as indicated on the template. Removing the paper from the area to be milled really made the machining process must easier. The first cut was to face “A”. When I put the piece in the vice I used the very sharp line where the paper was cut as a guide to locate the piece in the vice. The red line in the photo was positioned so that it was parallel to the top surface of the vice. After milling face “A” I repositioned the piece in the vice to mill surface “B”. In this photo you can see how the sharp line left were the paper was cut makes it very easy to position the piece in the vice.
 

04-16-13f
 
First futtocks cut, sanded and scarphs milled. The rabbets are milled in the cross chocks.
 

04-16-13g
 
Next I cut pieces of wood to simulate the keel and rubber cemented them to the frame drawing. The cutout you see was so that when I glued the cross chocks to the futtocks with wood glue, the glue would not stick to the template. After the glue has set I rubber cemented each of the futtocks to the frame template. I made very fine adjustments to the surfaces where the futtocks meet the keel to ensure the surfaces mated perfectly.
 

04-16-13h
 
Somehow I did not get photos of the chocks glued to the futtocks. With the substitute keel in place and the futtocks butted up against it and glued to the template I fitted the cross chocks. First I sanded the sides to within a whisker of the vertical lines on the sides. I left more meat on the angled sections then I test fit the chock. I kept making very minor adjustments to the sides until the chock sides would fit into the gap. Next I sanded the angled sides, again making very minor reductions until the chock just fit. Once the chock was correct in all respects (except for the excess wood I left on top) I removed the keel substitute and glued the cross chock in place. I removed the substitute keel so the carpenter’s glue would not accidently glue the substitute keel to the chock or futtocks. After allowing the wood glue to dry I peeled the paper template from the assembled futtock. I took each completed floor timber or futtock and on the top of the rabbet wrote the frame number and an arrow pointing forward. With this marking made I removed the paper templates that were used to fabricate all the individual pieces.
 
The next two photos show the final result. Nothing is glued to the keel in these photos and very minor shimming is needed on some of the pieces, this will be done when I permanently attach everything to the keel. You’ll notice that I left a bit of wood on the tops of the cross chocks when I sanded. This will allow me to make fine adjustments to how the piece sits on the keel, if I need the entire thing to sit a little lower I can remove a very thin slice of wood from the bottom of the rabbet. Once those adjustments are made the tops will be sanded so the tops of each piece are the correct height.
 

04-16-13i
 
In this next photo some of the pieces look grossly out of shape but that is due to the photography and the pieces needing to be shimmed.
 

04-16-13j
 
At this point I’m getting ready to make a lot of treenails and once that is done I’ll drill the necessary holes. After that I’ll start on the second futtocks for the floor timbers.

She's a lovely Swan, Bob. I look forward to your building photos.
 
Greg

Druxey, Sherry, Mark, John thanks for the kind comments.
 
I feel a bit like a dog with a bone sometimes, The shakle thing was still bothering me so I did some more experiments today and the results are promising.
 
First I thinned down a bit of 3/32 brass rod into a sort of dumbbell
 

 
then I annealed and flattened the ends
 

 
re annealed and flattened a little more
 

 
Then holding the unit in the round nosed pliers folded up the ends
 

 
next the ends were flattened in the vice to ensure they were flat to each other
 

 
Then drilled and tapped 2x56 and added the pin
 

 
and hooked it up to a pulley.
 

 
I think I will use this method for the rest of the shackles big and small.
 
Michael
 
 

John Thanks for pointing me to the site.
 
Today I did a little more metalwork, made the bob stay fitting and then mucked about sorting out a shackle. The fitting on the stem was fretted out folded and then the holes drilled and tapped then the tab was silver soldered on.
 

 
The shackle was a lot more work than I thought it would be. At first I bent up some different diameters of brass rod, but was not really happy with any of it.
 
So opted to make one out of some 5/16 x 1/16 brass strip.
 

 

 
Bending it to shape was a bit harder because I did not want to anneal the brass I wanted to keep it hard.
 

 
After the main body was bent to shape I tapped the locking side and then turned up a pin and flattened the end to facilitate winding it in, I still need to drill a small hole in the flattened end to add a safety wire.
 

 
I had a little chain not quite the right stuff but good enough to get a good Idea of how the final will look.
 

 

 
Michael

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the stays and rigging were added at the bow.  This pretty much finished it up.  Last was teh flag halliard.
 
 

Here you go Janos - both capstans with an Australian 5 cent piece in the foreground. For those of you who don't know, it's our smallest coin with a diameter of 19.25mm :
 


 
  Danny

Thank you Janos. I'll use a 5-cent piece on my next lot of pics   .
 
Capstan Bars
 
They'll be about the LAST things fitted but I thought I may as well make the Capstan Bars while I'm in that mode. There are 15 bars in total (5 on the lower capstan and 10 on the upper) but I'm only going to fit 6 or 7 to the top one and none on the lower - I want to show off the square holes in the drumhead on the starboard side.
 
The bars are 8 feet long. They have a 3 1/2" square tenon on the inner end to fit the hole in the drumhead. Then they step up to a short 3 3/4" section, and round off and taper to 2 5/8" at the outer ends.
 
I started by cutting the square bars on the table saw. Then I made a little jig from a pine block to sand the inner step all to the same length and depth - this seems like "overkill" but it made the job very easy :
 




 
Then I made another jig to turn the other end into an octagon. This also started the "rounding" in the right position, and also gave me a good grip on the bars whilst sanding :
 


 
The one on the right is still square, the middle one has been "octagoned", and the left one is finished :
 
 

 
I finished off the tapering and rounding by holding the bars flat on my sanding sheet board and using a sanding stick. Here are the first four :
 

 
  Danny

I believe boats were towed (other than in action) for ready use, Ian. It would take far too long to rig, hoist and lower a boat over the side in an emergency such as a man overboard. Also, open boats need to be kept wet to remain water-tight. My last model had two of the three ships' boats mounted so as to appear floating off the stern quarters. The third was rigged, ready to hoist from the waist.