druxey

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 78 –Lower Deck Waterways and Spirketing
Posted 5/24/11
In Part 77 the Upper Deck Clamps were discussed.  The installation of those continues on both sides.  In addition the installation of the waterways on the lower deck has begun.  The first picture shows the waterways on the port side being installed.
 

 
Where these curve inwards at the ends the strips were boiled and then pinned to the curved shape in place to dry as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This picture also shows the concave groove that transitions these from the thickness of the deck, 3 inches, to the full thickness of the waterway, 4 inches. 
 
Some of the decking was also begun, a few strakes next to the waterway.  The next picture shows the way these are fitted at the aft end of the ship.
 

 
The next picture shows the first section of spirketing on the port side being installed.
 

 
The wedges are now being used against the deck clamps to force the lower strake of spirketing down on the waterway.  Dark glue is used in this joint.  Yellow glue is used on the join with the timbers so it can be cleaned off and not show dark from the outside where there will be no planking. 
 
The next picture is another view of this on the starboard side.
 

 
The wedges are put in first, then the clamps.  In some cases the wedges are sufficient.
 
The next picture shows the beginning of the installing of the upper strake.

 
The gap between the clamps and spirketing was filled with ordinary plank.  This will not be installed on the model.
 
The last picture shows the aftermost piece of the lower strake of spirketing being fitted after boiling.
 

 
This is an extreme complex bend in two planes.  It got to this final stage in two steps of boiling bending and fitting.  It looks very dark in the picture because it is wet, having just been removed from the “boiler” in accordance with the Admiralty spec “while the water is still boiling.”  When dry and sanded it will be the same shade as the rest of the pear.  It will not be glued here until it has completely dried and shrunk back to its normal size.
 
This picture also shows that the wing transom knee and the sleeper shown installed in Part 77 have been removed after discovering an error in the way the sleeper was installed, and after some further research on the configuration of the wing transom knee.  In the last part it was shown straight and fayed to the timbers at the level of the clamps.  The new, correct one, will be scarphed on to the upper strake of spirketing per the spec.  This requires it to be shaped with a backward s-curve to get it down to the spirketing level.  It will be installed after the spirketing on this side is finished.
 
The spirketing, waterways and clamps for both sides are about 75 % installed at this stage, excluding bolts and nails, which will take a fair amount of work to complete.
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 77 –Upper Deck Clamps
Posted 5/20/11
 
To give the upper frame timbers some additional support after taking out the pine spacers I decided to install the upper deck clamps.  These are in two strakes, top and butt.  The first picture shows the first piece of the upper strake glued to the the frames and clamped in place.
 

 
The top and butt planks were cut on the circular saw using two specially fitted tapered guides.  They are 6 inches thick and 24 feet long, with their breadth set to give the overall breadth of the two strake band when installed.
 
The next picture shows the first of the lower strakes being fit up with wedges to force it up tight to the top strake.
 

 
In the next picture this has been glued in place, wedged and clamped.  The excess glue has also been washed off with water using a damp brush. 
 

 
 
Ordinary Titebond was used on the frames and a very darkly pigmented Titebond in the joints between planks.  The plain Titebond was used on the frames to make cleaning the glue from the outside of the hull between frames easier.
In the next picture a #0 flat silversmith’s riffler is being used to level out the strakes.
 

 
 
This tool cuts faster than sandpaper and leaves a flatter surface, avoiding rounding.  The next picture shows this area after sanding smooth with 120 grit paper on a sanding block.
 

 
The dark joints in this picture are somewhat obscured by the sanding dust, but they will be more prominent when the wood is polished and finished.  This method does give more subtle joint lines than some other methods.
 
The next picture may cause some seasickness.  It shows the installed upper deck clamps on the port side, ready for treenails.
 

 
This picture also shows some other work in the stern area going on in parallel.  The wing transom knee has been installed as well as the second sleeper on that side.  The next picture shows this closer up.
 

 
 
The detail of how these two important timbers mesh with the deck components is a bit tricky here and in the absence of detailed data I made some choices.   The wing transom knee is bolted to the frames just under the top strake of the clamp and is made parallel to it.  The copper bolts to the frames and to the wing transom are installed but not yet finished off.  The iron straps from the two outermost counter timbers will cross over the knee and bolt to it.  The second sleeper was left clear to allow the strap on the inner timber to bolt to the transom. The sleeper has no bolts yet. 
 
This picture also shows a section of waterway being held in place to dry with pins after boiling and bending it in place.  The concave curve where it was “chined” down to the level of the deck planks was machined before bending on the milling machine with a small ball end mill.  When this piece is dry the outside edge will be beveled back and fitted to match against the frames in this area.  There may need to be an additional short piece to take this further aft.  I am still not sure of this detail and how far back the waterway goes.  Right now I’m thinking to the aft side of the after fashion piece.  When the waterway is in place the two strakes of the spirketing can be installed above it.
 
Lots to do to get both sides caught up to this stage.
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 76 –Port Gun Port Sills
Posted 5/18/11
 
After getting the bow timbers sorted out, the sills could be installed on all the port gun ports for both the upper deck and the quarter deck. Care had to be taken with these because the framing detail will all be visible in the final model. The next two pictures show just a couple of the steps in the process of installing these.
 

 
This picture shows the height of the lower sill being marked. The tape was used to set this line and make sure it was fair. After this step the bottom of the sill was marked and the mortises cut to receive the sills. The next picture shows a sill being marked for cutting off.
 

 
With one end of the sill shaped, the other end is being marked to be cut off. The pencil marks for the top and bottom of the sill as well as the line marking the depth of the mortise can be seen in this picture.
 
The next pictures show some of this finished work after the sills had been sanded flush and fair to the sides.
 

 
These pictures also show the permanent spacers that have been installed between sections of the main frame bends. All but a few of the temporary pine spacers have been removed from this side. Some have been left to support some of the timber stubs, which are only bolted at their lower ends on to upper sills.
 

 
The next two pictures show the finished port side.
 

 

 
A lot of finishing up work was also done, including sanding between the frames to remove remnants of spacers or patterns, installing all the bolts for the sills, and giving the inside and outside a dose of fairing. The next picture shows the tops of the timbers, which, after this fairing, were reduced to their final molded breadth at the top of the side.
 

 
Without the spacers some of the frames are now self-standing and this increases the risk of breakage. I will probably begin to install the upper and perhaps the quarterdeck clamps to strengthen these timbers.
 
In the next picture the lines of the upper deck clamps have been marked out on the inside of the hull in pencil. The top line is the top of the beams and the next two down are the boundaries of the clamps.
 

 
These lines were measured from the port sills down. The port sills and the tops of the sides are at the correct height and as mentioned before, the interior measurements will now be referenced from them. A lot of sawdust remains in this picture from the internal fairing, which was done with small rasps following by sandpaper. I have been removing this from the lower decks by inverting the model and blowing it out.
 
 
Ed

Thanks Jeronimo.
 
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Thank you Karl. 
 
Thanks Mark, it's just a line for positioning. I have to make a special cleat and rope to attach the blocks to the tops. You'll see.
 
Mark II, here's the how to. I used this link to understand how it works: http://www.animatedknots.com/spliceshort/index.php?Categ=splicing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
 

First the length I need is laid out and tied off at both ends. The tips of the ropes are dipped in CA to prevent from unraveling
 

The ends are brought together and tied again
 

Then the lines are spliced using a needle, it took some time to understand how this works as its quite confusing 
 

I opened the eye of the needle so I can insert the rope easily
 

The finished splice
 

The loop is glued to the block
 

And then seized at both ends
 

 
The result
 
 
Remco
 

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]It’s amazing what you learn when you build a boat the way they were actually built.  I had always wondered why lap strake.  It seems like a difficult way to build a boat.  But then I decided to build a dory and guess what, they were lap strake built.  The building taught me why. 
 
The planks of a dory were only 5/8” thick, and the only way to get enough surface area between planks and provide a good seal is to put matching angles on planks so that instead of 5/8” surface you end up with about 1½”. 
 
 Here is the dory hull, still a long way to go. 
 
Bob
 

 

I have just begun to work on the decoration, shape the strips from modeling clay (so far only for the port) and also improve some details at the model to reach more authentic look of the original. To convert 2D images into 3D model decorations and sculptures I will proceed according to various materials and pics, for example according to the Dutch yacht Utrecht:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterkok/4938143524/sizes/l/in/set-72157624832607694/
 

 
At the stern I improved edges of decorative columns, now they are gilded, which should be more authentic with the decoration on the royal yacht:
 

 

Decorative moldings on the port:

 

Technology how to make these moldings from modeling clay

Preparation - first I make a thin roller. The best tool for this job is a finger and smooth paper, it is necessary to roll modeling clay very gently .... Thickness of this roller is approximately 1.5 mm for these ornaments.
 

 
Carefully transfer onto the wax paper, where the roller remains stick.

 

Immediately it starts making patterns, I use various tools (tweezers, pens, micro pencil ets.), until the modeling clay is soft and shapeable.
 
The edges should be slightly flattened - flat surface of tweezers usually helps:

 
 
And further pattern, this time using the tip of pencil:

 
Finished, now the decorations go to the oven...

 
It is very important to keep tools as cool as possible, otherwise the modeling clay is sticky to them. I let the tools soaked in ice water all the time.
 

I finished gilded moldings on the starboard and bow and now I am going to make decoration beside the windows.

Workshop photos.
 
 
Some of the class hard at work.

 
Doing scrollsaw work.

 
Layout.

 
 
Greg's Echo crossection

 
 
Bob W

More workshop photos
 
Greg showing Jim, Joe, and Pete the ins and outs of the Sherline Mill.

 
 
David giving some instructions to Norm.

 
 
Hard at work.

 
 
Greg's full hull work in progress.

 
 
My first frame.

 
 
Bob W
 
 
 

Thanks for the photos Bob. I knew your Nikon digital SLR would take better photos than my mini Nikon. Your first frame came out terrific and your lucite jig far outdid mine. Hope to catch you at our next workshop in the fall!