druxey

Read up on planking techniques on the tutorials here under 'Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck'

Thanks to all for nice comments.
I slowly continue with planking, about one half is done.

To convince you that the scale is really 1/48, I put a ''standard measuring tool on the deck.
 
Strange form  of staircase in the last picture.

That is correct: an eye splice (or reasonable facsimile) at each end of the strop. The strop is passed around the block and seized in. Then the legs of the strop pass around the spar and a lashing made between the eyes. 
 
The photograph shows a fore yard in the process of fitting out. Although you can't see the lashed strops, you can see that the blocks are correctly oriented, even before adjusting. Tedious work? Yes, but it gives a good result.

Thanks for your tip / suggestion Nigel,
it is much appreciated..
 
I also thought about the commen way, but on the other hand these bilge keels being appr. 40 cm long will be made from flat aluminium strip, so the won`t brake off, if by accident (when handling the hull so many times during planking and later on metal-plating) the hull knocks agaist anything 
I wanted a safe anchoring into the 8 concerned Hull frames and do the outside planking around then. Fortunately there will not be much fairing necessary, plse. refer to enclosed handscetch...
 
cheers 
 
Nils
 

Hello,
 
the workers have been very busy the last days. It's cold and rainy here, so they stay at the shipyard. 
All the beams for the poop deck are cut and installed. Also the walls, except for the great cabin, are ready. 
 
But the next problem occurs and again with the cannons. But about that later. Today I hope the captain will spend some drinks, because of the topping-out ceremony! 
 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi
 
 

Had you considered very fine chain link from a jewelry supply house?

The "chain" ...
 
cooper wire 0,1 mm, knotted... several trials in the waste box... here the one that looks more or less OK
 

 
The size is OK, still need more trials to reach consistent link size...
 

 
Alex

Please, if you are extracting solvent vapour, you MUST have a sparkless fan motor!

In the Chicago area, you will need to frame, insulate, vapour barrier and drywall the perimeter for sure. You are probably right in calling in a qualified contractor to do all this properly. I have a laminate floor over a cushioned insulating barrier on concrete and this has worked well for me.
 
I do some sawing, etc. in the basement: a shop vac and suitable hook-ups to machine tools are necessary (see Lee Valley). In addition I have a ceiling mounted fine dust filtration system. No complaints from my Admiral.

Thanks for your review, Mark. I'm lucky enough to regularly use a 60 watt Epilogue laser cutter available for use at  a local library. The unit is consistently maintained and adjusted by professionals and I still have issues with it.
 
The best advice I can give is to use a test cut or two every time you use the machine, even if you are cutting the same materials and thickness. I usually just cut a 3mm strip off the edge of the material I'm cutting, and this helps me calibrate the speed, power, and ppi.  
 
With the 60 watt machine, setting the correct speed and power is critical, and on everything I've cut, including 1/4 plywood, I've had to keep the speed and power quite low to avoid charring (10 or 20 speed, 35 - 40 power). I keep a logbook of settings for every cut I make, recording the different materials and thicknesses, and this helps me avoid too much waste. 
 
But I find the most critical step is the test cut - it's saved me a lot of ruined material. The mirrors and tubes in these machines constantly shift and degrade, and even planks from the same piece of wood have slightly different densities, so you never have the same cut twice, even with a professional quality machine.  
 
I cut some stern timbers on swiss pear last week - which reminds me that I'm behind in my posts!

I think.. I hope... this is final test post of this review unless I do something really stupid or find some additional info somewhere.  I'll be glad to answer any questions, however and share any knowledge I've gleaned. 
 
The lens holder did have issues.  The hole down the middle was burred badly at the top (laser light input) and off-center at the bottom (laser light output to lens) which seems to be a common problem with Chinese made machines.  There were scorch marks on the burrs and on the inside indicating that it needed to re-machined and made perfectly round.  The unit is aluminum and about 2" inches long.   Ok... aggravation time.  After a some "calm down and focus" time, I chucked it into the lathe and fired it up.  Using a boring bar, I took off about 0.010 inch of material and got the inside perfectly round from top to bottom and the top was de-burred.   The beast was then reassembled and tested.
 
I noticed that the kerf is a bit narrower and that it's cutting deeper into the wood.  For example, what took a speed of 12, power level of 9mA, and 4 passes to cut some of Jason's fine euro boxwood that 3/32" thick, I managed to get up the speed to 16, keep the power the same, and only 1 pass.   Similar results on 3/16" thick Castello (not the euro) and for the first time, I managed 1/4" Castello.  Took 4 passes but it I was happy since previous tests, I gave up after 6 passes at a slower speed and higher power.
 
On a side note, Boxwood is the toughest wood to cut from what I've seen.  Euro box seems harder to cut than Castello with a laser.  Maybe in the next couple of weeks, I'll try some ebony which should be interesting to say the least.   BTW, basswood cuts like butter now.
 
Here's a picture to compare to the previous one at post #24.  Less charring and a cleaner cut.  I went for broke on the photo and using the super macro setting went for the biggest image I could get to challenge this fix.
 

 
 
Final Thoughts:
 
I'm still not recommending it.  There's only been two reviews out there.. this one and the one by Debbie over at Sawmillcreek.org.  I'll be adding mine there also.
 
If I had known the challenges I would be facing, I would have looked at a different machine AND a different company. 
 
Since my scale of choice is 1:64, I seriously doubt I'll have to cut 1/4" wood but 3/16 is very likely and doable.   If my Licorne and the ships I have planned are any indication, mostly it'll be 1/8" and thinner.  
 
If anything else pops up.. I'll post it.
 

Continuing the saga...
 
I discovered (from another webite... sawmillcreek I think it was) that the lens holder may have issues like the hole between the mirror and lens being too small or off center. It's too narrow or off-center (seems to be a common problem) then the beam hits the sides and power is dissipated and the beam distorted before hitting the lens.  Well... mine is off-center about 1/32" or so.  I'll be firing up the lathe and re-cutting the opening with boring bar. 
 
My late father-in-law who was doctor before he retired, used to say that a good challenge is excellent for keeping the mind sharp.  I'm now thinking he meant a "challenge on the golf course" instead of something like this.   
 
And for the record,  I got an answer back from MM...  no inference that they mislaid or ignored the first.... anyway, here it is.. verbatim.    I've found lenses on line if I suspect that's what I really need at this point and the water temp is doable without adding ice to the bucket..
 
There are no lens options available, only factory replacements of the stock lens that comes in the machine.
 
There is not a manual for the CorelLaser program.
 
The ideal water temperature is between 70 -75 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature should not be allowed to go much over 78 degrees. Cool water can be slowly added into the bucket with the laser powered off and the pump still circulating.  To prevent thermal shock and damage to the laser tube be sure the water being added is within 10 degrees of the water temperature in the bucket.
 
Thank you for your feedback, I have passed your comments on regarding improvements to the LaserKnife manual and asked that our quality control check that the laser lenses are properly installed.
 
Micro-Mark Technical Service Department

Hi Mark,
 
Bringing up any optical based tool is tough and it is even harder when the customer service is poor. Your tests do show the promise the tool has to do some really detailed work.
 
Couple more thoughts in case they help.  Consider checking how level the stage is in the x  and y directions and also if the laser head is perpendicular. Any tilts could make finding a clean focus point across the piece more difficult. I also don't know how much adjustment you have to control the scan speed. Slowing the scan speed should allow the laser power to be dialed down and perhaps help reduce the charing. Sometimes slower translations speeds also help to reduce any vibrations back into the optics as well. Every little can help.
 
Cheering you on from afar... good luck!
 
Cheers!
 
Nigel.

I think it's a rotten shame their tech-support is non-existent, and after spending that much money on an item that you have to spend hours to get to work right? Sorry, but I'd be really tempted to take it back, and personally feed it to the sales-rep. Well, probably not, because I'd still want my money back at that point, but it's fun to fantasize. 
   I hope you get things tweaked so it functions alright for you Mark. Still I'd mark the "too late to send back day" on the calendar, just in case. Thanks for the review. I know I won't be getting any tech items, or power-tools from them for sure.

Mark: sorry that I'm late in on this conversation. Read the three tutorials on lining out and spiling on this site before you go too far. Under 'Building, framing, planking and plating...."

Please, if you are extracting solvent vapour, you MUST have a sparkless fan motor!

In the Chicago area, you will need to frame, insulate, vapour barrier and drywall the perimeter for sure. You are probably right in calling in a qualified contractor to do all this properly. I have a laminate floor over a cushioned insulating barrier on concrete and this has worked well for me.
 
I do some sawing, etc. in the basement: a shop vac and suitable hook-ups to machine tools are necessary (see Lee Valley). In addition I have a ceiling mounted fine dust filtration system. No complaints from my Admiral.

Mark: sorry that I'm late in on this conversation. Read the three tutorials on lining out and spiling on this site before you go too far. Under 'Building, framing, planking and plating...."

You'll never go back to basswood now! Enjoy working with quality wood.

Please, if you are extracting solvent vapour, you MUST have a sparkless fan motor!

In the Chicago area, you will need to frame, insulate, vapour barrier and drywall the perimeter for sure. You are probably right in calling in a qualified contractor to do all this properly. I have a laminate floor over a cushioned insulating barrier on concrete and this has worked well for me.
 
I do some sawing, etc. in the basement: a shop vac and suitable hook-ups to machine tools are necessary (see Lee Valley). In addition I have a ceiling mounted fine dust filtration system. No complaints from my Admiral.

Build log part 7
 
 
 
today the hull-planking starts.
 
For the long, rather straight planks from the sheer downwards I cut some 13mm wide planks (to get along a bit swifter).
The delicate portion will be where  the tail cone transits into the rear hull, just above the Propshaft housings, I`ll give a sigh of relief when that is done.....
 
 
Nils
 
 

 
rather sharp roundings are done with 2 x 2 strips, whilst the 2 x 13 planks realy get me somewhere
 
 

 
the planking is single layer, 2 mm thick in pine. After sanding the surface later on, there should remain appr. 1,5 to 1,7 mm thickness
 
 

 
here the stringers are of great advantage for clamping down the planks while the PA cures (I use "Ponal Express" glue)
 
 

 
after fastening 3 planks the opposite side is done likewise, before I move on to the next plank group
 
 

 
the yard slipway provides an absolutely twist / warp free hull
 
 

 
I`ll have to do the ruddershaft sleeve and bearing mechanism, before the "cone "fillpieces" are attached permanently
The rudder at this stage is just a "dummy spaceholder" and will be cut away and replaced by a structured metal made one later on

Наконец, законченная работа на модели корабля. К сожалению (есть причина), я был не в состоянии показать процесс строительства. От меня это мало влияет. Тем не менее, подлежат рассмотрению в силе, я постараюсь, чтобы сделать хорошее фото студию и добавить к этой теме.

Mark: sorry that I'm late in on this conversation. Read the three tutorials on lining out and spiling on this site before you go too far. Under 'Building, framing, planking and plating...."