John Maguire

Nigel,
 
"Request permission to come aboard, Sir". Excellent, high quality work. Looking forward to following along, if I may .  .  .  .
 
Respectfully,
John Maguire
Seattle

Thank you for such a prompt reply. Will you take payment now?

Hi Chuck,
 
I would like to purchase one of these fine kits. Do you plan to do an additional run?
 
Respectfully,
John Maguire
Seattle

I thought I would start a new thread, as the original was getting a little too big.
 
OK, for at least the next 5 years, I have my developments more or less already mapped out. The subjects cover a wide range of vessels from the 17th to early 19th Century.
 
For 2023, I have three confirmed. The first is Indy (of course). I may add as an optional extra cistern/chain pump housings. This has been my largest development to date, taking well over a year of full time work, and having Jim make the prototype and taking the manual photo pics and text. If I were to do this, then Indy would have been a 2 year development.
 
After Indy, I will have the American schooner Grecian (1812) almost ready, which I anticipate releasing in April/May. I have almost finished the mast and rig drawings, and profiles, so this may come together pretty quickly once Indy is released. 
From Wiki:
 
Thomas Kemp of Baltimore designed Grecian with several innovations. She was pierced for 20 guns, though she never carried that many, and her gunports were unique, designed perhaps to save weight. She had a long, curving stem, and a shallow, less convex bow. Grecian's first captain was James Phillips, and under him she had made one voyage to France. She received letter of marque No. 944 in December 1813, under Captain Knapp.
 
Not sure how much of that can be trusted, though, as she was not pierced for 20 guns, she has 18, with the fore-most being next to useless due to the distance between port and starboard (very sharp bow, so 7 per side being usable, in my opinion). It seems she had a mix of guns, being more standardised when in the British navy. What I have done is give enough guns for carronades, 6 and 4 pounders. I am sure the 4 pounders were used at the front, due to space issues, with the 6 pounders being nearer the middle and rear - so the modeller will have a choice of what to fit where.
 
After this, I will start on HMS Surprise, and this should be released this year, assuming all goes well.
 
And that's it for now....
 
ETA - My real love is frigates, as I have said before. If I had my way completely, the next five or six releases would be frigates from 32 guns upwards! But I cannot....

My San Bartolome with the optional cradle, building slip, paint kit walnut wood  and sails was shipped on October 9th and just cleared customs at JFK on Saturday. Pavel and Denis have been a joy to work with. I hold them in the highest regard .  .  ;.
Respectfully,
John

Hamilton, my sincere apologies - I posted this and failed to look back for replies! Canada would seem to be no problem for shipping though I've never done it. If you are still interested, please drop me a note direct: w1cdo@me.com
Respectfully,
John Maguire

SOLD
 
 
This is a repeat posting for the kit .  .  .
I have changed my mind about my next project and wish to sell the Winchelsea kit #1, the laser cut basswood brackets and laser cut parts for chapter one. Chuck's packing to me is unopened. I will re-label it and ship USPS for $225.

SOLD
 
 
This is a repeat posting for the kit .  .  .
I have changed my mind about my next project and wish to sell the Winchelsea kit #1, the laser cut basswood brackets and laser cut parts for chapter one. Chuck's packing to me is unopened. I will re-label it and ship USPS for $225.

Doc,
 
Nice. I want to do the same. What tool did you use for initial rough shaping. Any hints? Did you try to make the area approaching the stern concave?
Respectfully,
John

Doc,
 
Those blocks came out perfect. You maintained a round shape between frames. I plan to do the same with REVENGE.
 
Respectfully,
John

I overlooked Chuck's plain warning to be sure to remove laser burn from the ends of the floors. I  glued without reading that section of the instructions at the time I was working and forgot that I had read it on earlier studies. As Chuck says, if you don't do it, it creates a bit of a challenge later .  .  .
 
Fortunately, a tiny diamond stud file got me out of trouble in an hour. I have the keel attached to the rear section of frames and am ready to glue the forward end but have paused to RTFM again.

I overlooked Chuck's plain warning to be sure to remove laser burn from the ends of the floors. I  glued without reading that section of the instructions at the time I was working and forgot that I had read it on earlier studies. As Chuck says, if you don't do it, it creates a bit of a challenge later .  .  .
 
Fortunately, a tiny diamond stud file got me out of trouble in an hour. I have the keel attached to the rear section of frames and am ready to glue the forward end but have paused to RTFM again.

I overlooked Chuck's plain warning to be sure to remove laser burn from the ends of the floors. I  glued without reading that section of the instructions at the time I was working and forgot that I had read it on earlier studies. As Chuck says, if you don't do it, it creates a bit of a challenge later .  .  .
 
Fortunately, a tiny diamond stud file got me out of trouble in an hour. I have the keel attached to the rear section of frames and am ready to glue the forward end but have paused to RTFM again.

I overlooked Chuck's plain warning to be sure to remove laser burn from the ends of the floors. I  glued without reading that section of the instructions at the time I was working and forgot that I had read it on earlier studies. As Chuck says, if you don't do it, it creates a bit of a challenge later .  .  .
 
Fortunately, a tiny diamond stud file got me out of trouble in an hour. I have the keel attached to the rear section of frames and am ready to glue the forward end but have paused to RTFM again.

Thank you Chuck .  .  .
 

Thank you Chuck .  .  .
 

Wow, that is stunning .  .  .

I have had my kit for a week during which time I have primarily been looking at what the rest of you have been doing to gain from your experiences and ideas. My comments about quick delivery, arriving in perfect condition and impression of high quality are the same as previously stated collectively by the group. 
 
I fabricated the suggested spacers for installing the thinner pieces on top of the keel, stem and stern. I prefer the appearance of the scarfed keel and am building that way. It was impressive to see the notched piece fit snugly on top of the keel without need for any length adjustment. 
 
I am using wipe on poly prior to releasing components. One coat is barely discernible, two as on the keel might be just about right.
 
I have seen one instance of waiting to attach the transom until the frames and keel are on the building board - I am inclined to follow that path myself.
 
Here is my beginning .  .  .

Additional tasking at the Cougar Mountain Shipyard .  .  .
 
The bulkheads fit the building board with finished furniture tolerance. Eventual disassembly is going to be "fun". On a one by one basis I hold them to natural light looking for the lack of light seepage to be sure the bulkhead is flush with the building board.

 
When looking at the bottom of the building board most of the bulkheads are long by the thickness of a piece of paper or two .  .  .

 
I have a half inch thick slab of glass that I use as a "flat" surface with a piece of 220 to work off the bottom of each bulkhead, one at a time, in the actual location where it will eventually be placed.

 
And with happy hour approaching the two piece bulkheads were laid out with their respective floors, ready for glue.

 
 

Floors glued in place and both sides of each frame taped.
 

Floors glued in place and both sides of each frame taped.
 

Floors glued in place and both sides of each frame taped.
 

Floors glued in place and both sides of each frame taped.
 

Floors glued in place and both sides of each frame taped.