BLACK VIKING

May I gently suggest, before the planking begins in earnest, that you take a little more time to fair the bulkheads.  It is evident, on your first plank, that there is a not insignificant mid-ships dip.  If you are double-planking, you could fill depressions after the base layer, but if you are only single-planking,  these depressions will be very evident, if the under-framing has not been faired.

Thanks for the comment. You have right. I will take a extra look on this. I was little bit puzzled over this yesterday on how it will be. I have read somewhere that there might be a regression there, but I might be wrong.  This has also been an issue in the other build logs for this kit. Some of the bulk heads are very off on the same place. (See the Vasa log by Puckotred).
 

Hi all! 
 
It is some years ago i did the last upload here, 6 years.... But the build has never been cancelled. It has only been on hold because of other things in life. However, I feel that now is the time to take up the model ship building again. So here is a short update my Vasa just to show that I have started on the build again. The areas where the gun ports will have been sprayed with black color.
 

  
 
I have also already started to be annoyed on the fragile upper parts of the bulk heads that breaks all the time........

 
But I found the solution to prtect them with my childrens old wood toyes
And as you can see on the photos the planking has started!
 


This is all for now but at last I am on the way! 
 
 

I have zero knowledge about the rigging of the yard, but there is a notable presentation in the picture in post #2.   I am not sure if the picture is not the first one from the time that I have seen where the forecastle has a deck that is horizontal enough for a human (and not a chameleon) to stand on and do something other than hold on for dear life. 
The camber in those old pictures is usually absurd. 
 
For the rigging, perhaps you could do a mock up using the components  shown and see if there is a way to lead the lines to actually raise and lower the yard.

Here's a picture from 1457. It's from  "Hesperis" - a fantastical biography of the Italian nobleman Sigismond Malatesta.
 
The mainyard has been lowered. I had a look at the lifts; this is one of the few contemporary pictures that shows them in any detail. At first glance it looks very good. The lift goes from the outer end of the yard to a double-sheaved block (sister block) hanging from the masthead, and back down to the yardarm, plus the upper sheave has a rope passing from the masthead and back up again. But though I'm no rigging expert (that's for sure!) it seems to me that the artist has got it wrong - surely it can't work like that. The rope passing through the lower sheave doesn't seem to do anything - it's got no "fall" - nothing to pull on to adjust it. And the same applies to the rope going through the upper sheave - where are the "falls"? I suppose they might be among those vertical ropes coming down from the masthead.
 
But why have lower sheave in the sister block, with two fixing points on the yardarm? To reduce the forces involved, or possibly even them out? I dunno.
 
Any advice or explanation would be greatly appreciated.
 
Steven
 

OTOH, this detail from the Tavola Strozzi of 1465 shows lifts which seem to have a similar arrangement (if that's a rope going through a lower sheave - I can definitely see two lines there).
 

My hats off to you on one hell of challenging build👍 Hope all is well
 
Michael D.

To achieve a more subdued look, simply remove some of the panel line wash using Solvent 110. It seems this product is a refined, odorless white spirits but I have not experimented to find a generic equivalent of it. What I do know is that it works well to remove excess Tamiya or Mr Color wash that’s been applied over Mr Color lacquer paint without harming the paint in any way. Your results may vary over different paint types. On the opposite side of the model I used a dark gray panel line wash to compare to the black wash used on the first side. A slightly different look but not much different. I’ll end up using the black on both sides to keep everything consistent. The key is how vigorous the cleanup after application.
im going to try and find some photos that show the commonly used access panels so I can show some light wear around those. If you’ve run across any photos like this please share them with me.
 

Name  the song ……

So coming together now, a few days work to get the roof done now? Then I can do the other tractor 

With a really big engine ! 

So when I sanded down 50% of the interior of the tracked I stuffed up and added wrong tracks to each kit, and @Egilman pointed this out to me (I hadn’t noticed as I was probably a bit focused on the weathering), so I’ve been at work all afternoon and just got home after midnight and pulled them off and swapped them. 30 minutes of weathering the tracks tomorrow and I’m back on track. (He’s know, I’d know and it would just burn me up for stuffing it up. Thanks young man for saving me. Imagine if it was after I’d finished!!!

Verdigris painting time. Using the Citadel oxide overtop a gold
 

 
My test  cat heads



The gorgeous moulded  figurehead sprayed Tamiya gold 

 

 
Lamps too
 

 


She is beautiful

 

 

Dry brushed the tracks to bring out the worn bits and some rust wash 

Even though Mr Color Surfacer 1000 goes down very smooth, will wet sand gently with Tamiya extra fine sanding sponge before applying color coats.

Ok, I thought it would be lazy not to do one in the 3 tone camouflage.
dry fit. Should look good weathered, one OD and one Camo. 

So there will be a Holt tractor for each piece plus a lorry 

https://news.yahoo.com/dna-woman-famed-17th-century-120324640.html

Hi ☺️
 
March 2013
 
 

Final pics:
 
 

As Jerry Garcia said, “What a long, strange trip it’s been.”  More strange than long though.  When I look at the build logs on MSW for full-size ship models, I am constantly amazed at the perseverance the craftsmen have focusing on a project that can take years to complete.  It makes the 3 months I spent on this Kraken SIB pale in comparison.  So we’ll just call it a strange trip. 

Before I describe the final efforts of this past week, I want to take a moment and give a big THANK YOU to all the amazing people that have been a part of the adventure:  @Keith Black, @mtaylor, @gjdale, @Ian_Grant, @Landlubber Mike, @Knocklouder, @FriedClams, @BANYAN, @GrandpaPhil, @Louie da fly, @gsdpic, @Javelin, @O.B.one, @Snug Harbor Johnny, @ccoyle, @John Fox III, @Roger Pellett, @Prowler901, @BLACK VIKING, @Charter33, @Paul Le Wol, @woodrat, @Jim Lad, @The Gimps Chimp, @Auger, @bolin, @Bryan Woods, @AJohnson, @DonBMichigan.  When I post entries to this log and see your interest, likes, comments, suggestions, and humor, it's a large part of the enjoyment I get from these efforts.  As with all my other SIB projects, y’all made this one much better than it would have been had I just stumbled thru it on my own.  I cannot thank each of you enough.

Now, the final chapter - the last pothole on this trip was trying to turn the water into a living, breathing, ocean.  My thought was to have relatively calm water around the Kraken’s head with churning, active water underneath the bottle and around the tentacles.
   
First, I added some minor froth where the head and tentacles of the Kraken meet the water.  The froth was cotton pulled from the tips of Q-tips and heavily diluted with white glue.  Then I did some paint shading on the waves to achieve a gradient of dark sea blue at the base to a lighter blue/turquoise tint at the tops.  I used various mixtures of acrylic ultramarine, lake blue, yellow, and gel gloss for the different shades.  Next was adding touches of white paint to the tops of the smaller waves and ripples, followed by adding wave crests to the tops of the larger waves (cotton again with diluted white glue).  The final step was adding cotton splashes at the bases of the tentacles to give the appearance of tentacles violently coming out of the water.  Here's an in-progress pic.

 
I finished all that work on Tuesday and thought I was done.  However, when I backed away and looked at it, something was not right.  But I could not put my finger on it.  I got up Wednesday morning, looked at it again, and it hit me.  Instead of ocean waves, my water looked like snowy mountain ranges.  And what’s the main thing about mountain ranges compared to ocean waves?  Mountains are static.  My ocean looked static.  Blah.  It needed some excitement, movement, churn, swirl, chaos.  

So back to google and studying pictures of ocean waves.  Then it was a matter of repainting the sides of many of the waves and redoing a lot of the crests and froth.  At the end, I think I was able to add a decent amount of life to the water and sort of make it look like it’s being whipped into a frenzy by thrashing tentacles.  Comments and criticisms (good and bad) are much appreciated on the result.



I was breathing this YUGE sigh of relief when a friend reminded me of something I’d mentioned to her a while back.  She asked me, “What about the bit of water running out of the bottle’s mouth?  Are you still going to do that?”  Of course she was talking about @Javelin's suggestion which I had told her about.  I had pretty much decided not to bother with that.  But my friend pointed out that the water in the bottle would not just stop at the mouth’s edge, especially with the angle of the bottle.  
 
She was right.  Furthermore, now that I looked at it, the water in the neck of the bottle looked kind of static just like my ocean had earlier.  It needed an element of movement as well.  So I mixed some epoxy and set up some various ways of capturing a drop.  When they got good and sticky, but not quite hardened, I peeled off the one I like best and stuck it on to the lip of the bottle.
 

 

And with that, my strange Oseberg/Kraken trip comes to an end!  I will add some final pics on the next post.
 

There is a lot of detail to file off on the cockpit bits. Good luck and have fun.
At first, I thought these were location points for the LG assembly, but now believe they are ejector pin marks which need to be filled. Will double check then fill and retouch as needed. Does your kit have these marks, Arthur? No biggie, just something to be aware of.
 
 
 

One last dry fit before gluing the fuselage halves together. A lot of detail buried inside there. You can clearly see the offset between the tandem seats that Ken spoke about in an earlier part of this thread. Thanks again because I would surely thought I put something together wrong if he had not mentioned this fact. Looks odd and have never seen that on another two-seater
.

Hi,
Work in progress update. Got all of the LED’s needed from Evan Designs (excellent source!!!). So started the installs – Yikes this would have obviously been SO much easier had I decided to add lights earlier in this project. But enjoying the current challenge this is creating for me.
 
Where to locate the batteries and two needed on/off buttons to be determined. Battery packs will, of course, fit inside – on/off button locations TBD. Will also make some kind of candle looking housings for the lantern LEDs
 
Thanks for dropping by….
 

And the base coat done. I’m not sure if the colours are exact but Meh!