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Dfell

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Everything posted by Dfell

  1. Right - now other side gun port strip dry fitted in place. Hopefully there is no obvious things wrong. Am worried about this stage - if wrong I guess it will cause a lot of problems for other things. Top of the strip is fraction higher at the bow bulkhead Gun in place for checking position to the opening - although would like to change the carriage which will probably alter how the gun points through opening. Another view Join on strip just misses bulkhead which I understand is how it should be - strange. Hopefully this is all okay - I will proceed with glueing it...... Regards Doug
  2. Hello - wanted to check that things are going in the right direction as I know this part of the build is extremely important. All dry fitted. The gun port strips were first heated with an iron and fixed on a board between two rows of screws forming the bow's shape A light mist of water sprayed on and then left over night. A test fit and to form the shape so far only one side done - fixed in place with the usual clamps etc. Again a light spray of water and this will be left overnight. Then the other side will be done. The strip as instructed aligned to tops of bulkheads but the odd top of bulkhead a fraction too high. All gun openings appear the same distance above decking and have place a kit's cannon on all seems central although will source some other carriages and use kit's barrels. All needs looking into. Please - if anyone can see something wrong I would appreciate the feed back. Thank you Doug
  3. Hello - More deck fittings - all dry fitted. Was uncertain as to width of ladder and exactly what happens around hatch opening. Have lined hatch opening for ladder with strips of walnut to give some thickness to deck and hide ends of planks and ply underneath. Have some plans of Fly which I would say the ladder looked at least 3 ft wide (just under 1 mtr) so have done the width to about 15 mm. A very crude jig was used to assemble ladder - used the kit parts which were very good. Ladder in place - feels as if too wide Concerned about the ladder on the Quarter deck as I know at this width it will touch the hatch below - may move the hatch opening a fraction over depending on the space for upper capstan. Hatches all done on lower gun deck. Have sanded the top with a slight curve to lose the flatness. Thanks for looking Doug
  4. One capstan - the centre hole in various parts to make the capstan was 10mm and instructions asked for 8mm dowel? Was this situation experienced by anyone else? Just happened to have a piece of dowel that fitted and this was extended (to link with the capstan above) with a piece cut out to fit under beam. I do realize this will not be visible Some other deck fittings dry fitted to deck - hatch, pumps cistern assembly,rear main mast bits (adjustment required so it sit under beam), riding bit assembly. Hatch is flat with a little curvature on the underside to suit deck. Regards Doug
  5. Thank you Nils - nice to hear from you again. Black Viking, Beef Wellington, Seventynet,and Chris (ccoyle) thank you for the 'likes' - much appreciated. Regards Doug
  6. Hello - lower gun deck planked using the kit supplied Tanganyika wood although I wish I was more adventurous and tried something else as I did not feel the quality was there - but still it is suitable for my skills. Still using 0.05 black thread - would preferred grey if I could find it. Realise the caulking is out of scale but as I used this method on my first build thought I'd keep the same build theme going - ie built badly.... Left the edges to do once the side hull section is done. Deck still to be sanded and varnished. Will now make some hatches and try and understand how to do the capstan. Regards Doug
  7. Chris - thank you. Probably could do with some more reference books Right, onwards with the deck planking then ..... Thanks Doug
  8. Hello - just a question before I start on the lower gun deck planking. On the instruction it says to put a plank width way as can be seen on illustration. Is this normal as I have noticed everyone on their Fly builds plank the entire deck without these two planks across the deck. Is it down to personal choice? Thank you if you can help, please Regards Doug
  9. A another small step - lower gun deck in place. Have decided to plank the deck next as instructions dictate. It comes in two halves and to help with support / strength along join have glued a strip of hull planking underneath with a lip so the other half can be attached onto. Where there are hatches / masts etc have cut the support away. The strength along joint is surprisingly good Regards Doug
  10. Hello Chris - no just dry fitted Thanks for looking in Doug
  11. Hello - a few small steps forward. Planking done on lowest deck using kit supplied Tanganyika wood with black thread inbetween for caulking. First done onto thin ply and then glued to the MDF base. Balsa blocks inserted for extra support. Bearding and Rabbeting all done - hard to see as keel is in MDF and not ply Now not sure if to follow instructions and plank the lower gun deck which came in two halves or proceed with the hull planking which I'd rather do. Thank you for all the previous comments and encouragements. Regards Doug
  12. Telp - looking forward to your build. Good luck. Have sent you a message concerning rudder hinges.
  13. Hello Telp - bought the ship's boat from Cornwall Model Boats. Link to web site and item: http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft-ships-boats.html Hope this helps and hope you got my message awhile back thanking you for your previous nice comments. Thanks again Regards Doug
  14. Hello ChrisLinden - Thank you - although I am thinking it is going to be quite a challenge. Regards Doug
  15. Hello - Would like to ask Chris Watton when the upgrade kit for HMS Fly will be available but I see he is not taking any messages. Is there anyone who can help, please, on how I can ask Chris or is there someone who may Know if / when the kit is available. Thank you Doug
  16. Hello - a tentative start on HMS Fly. All dry fitted so as to get a feel for things and to get back into building again. All laser parts are an excellent fit with small amount of sanding. I can see the plywood decking will need support which I see has been pointed out in other builds. Have been following all the great Fly builds on here and hopefully I don't let the side down. Regards Doug
  17. RonaldB - Hi - yes the windows were a scratch built but not sure what 'resign sloops' are but if they are not in the box then I either bought them or made them Wish you well with your Supply build and will look forward to it with interest and can certainly help you if you require any as I am sure the others on here who also have built Supply will like to help. Regards Doug
  18. Amazing work Ron - a lot more going on than on the Supply Regards Doug
  19. Ron - This is really good. Like the colours. Doug
  20. Beef Wellington - Jason Hi - I had a warped keel for my Brig Supply and Caldercraft were happy to replace it. Good luck with your new build - will be watching with interest. Doug
  21. geoff - hello. Have sent you a pm but not sure if it worked. So if you did not get the pm the answer to your question as where I got the case - sshardwoodworking.co.uk - and the guy's name is Simon. Doug
  22. hornet - hamilton - and JesseLee Thanks for looking at my build and your lovely comments. hornet - I used Admiralty paints, diluted with some water - hand brushed several coats with sanding in between. Been building a balsa wood WW1 plane kit - but will get back to ship building. Also have another distraction - have just had a 1963 Lambretta TV175 series 3 scooter restored to play with.... Had a case built as well for HM Brig Supply - so a bit poor at the moment Regards Doug
  23. Thank you everyone for your comments - and Geoff will be looking out for your build - good luck. Been busy sorting out a glass case - very expensive but I guess it is needed Regards Doug
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