CaptainSteve

Steve and Mark -thank you a hundred times over. The main mast is Nakatomi, but perhaps that is how it should be, after all. The useful threads linked here indicate the AL atrocity is =broadly= well-proportioned but a little trimming is indeed called for because 340mm mast length just looks wrong. I learned a few bits of terminology as a bonus. \o/
 
Nika

I'd have to go along with what Steve said.  You might check the index here and see if there's any other builds. Check under "Small Craft" : 
 

I'd have to rank that one right up there at the top of the "useless scale," just below the infamous, but amazingly still sold, "Loom-a-line." (Full disclosure: I bought one forty-plus years ago. Still have it. Tried to use it once. Never touched it again.) 
 
For whatever it cost, if you need a bending jig, it's easy enough to take a block of scrap wood and a few finishing nails and save a whole lot of money. If you have a decent plank-bending iron, you really shouldn't need anything more than that for bending planks.
 
My first rule for tool buying, admittedly sometimes broken, is to never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best you can possibly afford. It's very tempting to buy the latest gizmo on impulse, but a fool and his money are soon parted, as they say. There are very, very few "ship modeling specific" tools. Most come from other crafts and trades and purchasing tools from non-modeling sources often will get you much better quality tools at much lower prices than the stuff in the modeling catalogs.
 
If you are serious about the hobby and the sort of person who sticks with their interests, I'd urge you to start a "piggy bank." Whenever you have any "spare change," set a buck or ten aside for the day when you really have a use for a good tool that will cost you a few bucks. It's surprising how fast it adds up, even if you just throw your pocket change in a jar when you take off your pants every night before bed. Do that for a few months and when the day comes you realize how much money you are spending on pre-cut wood at the hobby shop, you'll have enough on hand to join the "Model Machines Club" and buy a Byrnes saw, a decent micro-lathe, a mini drill press, a scroll saw, and cool stuff like that which can really pay for itself over time and will always hold a lot of its value if and when you ever no longer need it. 
 
If the money you've got is irresistably burning a hole in your pocket, you might consider buying a small machinist's vise and a jeweler's vise. Those are a couple of tools I find I'm always using. They are simple things, but very handy to have. The same goes for a "third hand" device of some kind, although I have never found one that was a well-built as I would wish (alligator clips and loose ball joints don't cut it.) Sometimes making your own is not only less expensive, but also much better. A draw plate for making variously sized micro-dowels is an excellent investment. Jim Byrnes makes a very fine one and at $25, it's a good "gateway drug" that will get you hooked on his other really fine tools. http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/index5.html
 
Finally, don't limit yourself to tools. One essential for any serious modeler is a reference library. The internet has made a huge amount of information easily available, but there's still a lot of data that isn't on line. A lot of the old timers here started building their modeling libraries before there ever was an internet or an Amazon to make used books readily available. We'd have to pore through used bookstores or subscribe to antiquarian booksellers' monthly or quarterly catalogs in the hope of snagging a treasured out-of-print title before one of our modeling colleagues did. If one buys a used book or two a month, often for less than $25 a piece, they can build a very useful, and valuable, modeling library. Only buy the good books. (There are lots of mediocre ones aimed at the beginners.) Look for the "classics" and the books that are full of good reference materials. These books will hold their value reasonably well and always be useful. If you watch for them on eBay or look for them on Amazon and similar sites, you can find the works of Davis, Underhill, Longridge, Chappelle, and other "essentials" fairly reasonably priced. Building a reference library can, and likely will, become a collecting hobby in and of itself. Besides, if you fill your house with books, people will think you're smart.  
 
 

In this situation, I would hold the money until I progressed in a build to a place where a specific tool is needed and then buy it.  If you have a large budget - buying tools on spec, or collecting anything that could possibly be of use, is a no risk, no hardship behavior.  If the expenditure has an effect, that is not a sustainable aspect.

I agree with what Jaager says.   Buy it when you need or if you "know" you'll be needing it.    As far as bending planks, one can go a garage sale and pick old curling irons (in various sizes) for very little money.  

Using water and heat will achieve the same results 100 times quicker. Amati has a great soldering iron plank bender. I use that for all my bending needs. I am sure others will have their favourite methods as well, but it really comes down to soaking the wood to make it pliable, then heating it to achieve the desired shape. Once the wood is then cooled it will hold the shape.
 
Chris
 

Hey Dave, I find I use a small modelling hammer all the time, depending on your eyesight, some magnifying tools may be useful too. Pin vises are always necessary, and you can NEVER have enough clamps of any size!
 
In my opinion, some of the fancy rigging/ratline tools/frames are a waste of money. A good selection of small chisels come in handy, and if I had any money left over I would probably stock up on sandpaper of various grades and different types of tape for masking and holding.
 
And what CDW said; definitely invest in a good plank bender!
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

My non-existent sailing experience couldn't give you a definitive answer to your question, Nikiforos, but I do know that others who were building the Bounty launch at the same time that I was did mention adding a bowsprit and jib-sail to their kits. I can only imagine that there would have been many different rigs, depending upon design and usage, among other factors. 
Cathead opened up a discussion on the matter here, which you may find useful.

My non-existent sailing experience couldn't give you a definitive answer to your question, Nikiforos, but I do know that others who were building the Bounty launch at the same time that I was did mention adding a bowsprit and jib-sail to their kits. I can only imagine that there would have been many different rigs, depending upon design and usage, among other factors. 
Cathead opened up a discussion on the matter here, which you may find useful.

Okay.
 
Question time for you talented vets out there -both of you
 
Here is this thing, with its magnificent hull that I didn't photoshop. It actually is like that in the instructions. My question is this:
 
If I were to remove the bowsprit and foremost sail (not familiar with its name -- represented here by black lines) would this idiot be seaworthy? Its a way to reduce the skyscraper look, but would the darn thing be able to sail with two ehm ... sails? I hope it sinks, personally. The red lines represents somewhere I could reduce the length, hopefully. Even then, Nakatomi Plaza is a bungalow by comparison*.
 
Thank you! I can finally finally upload some pics this week; I don't have access to a digital camera until my son can snap a few shots.
Edit: still annoyed by the black lines between yellows and red in yonder Spanish flag, the pole of which collides with the boom (?)
 
It's unconstitutional
 
 

*hyperbole.

I really appreciate how you are taking archaeological finds from early century ships and incorporating them into your build. We all as model builders strive to do just that with our representations. Who knows when the last time a actual 1025 AD three-sheaved block and single sheaved block were actually used, but now threw your effort they will be used in historical context for many years to come threw your modeling expertise. I do applaud you sir and all the others whom produce these finds into reality once again. Personally ship modeling needs to be incorporated into all of our schools classes as the wealth of learning just from simple builds would be a wonderful teaching tool in many different discipline's.

Finally, before I would fasten the bulwarks to the hull, I needed to add the cannon rigging eye bolts to both the bulwarks and the planking just above the waterway. I thought doing that now would be easier rather do doing it later. The blackened eyebolt openings are 3/32” dia. So, they may be difficult to see. Here are all the bulwarks so far (about 1/3) glued into place. The construct continues.

Just as a matter of note, when I purchased the MS model kit and the associated practicum by Bob Hunt, some years past, Jeff Hayes’ HobbyMills was Bob’s wood supplier of choice but Bill has since retired and closed shop. He had supplied the supplemental wood required or suggested by Bob’s many practicums. In this case, Bob Hunt did not kit-bash the Constitution, but he did modify it a bit by substituting boxwood for certain basswood and laser cut constructs, which I am trying to follow. Bob felt the laser cut parts were too fragile.
 
At that time, Jeff Hayes offered a wood supplement package for those substitutions, which I purchased. That is where I’m getting my pre-sized boxwood substitutions from. Anything, I initiated, like the gun deck and all its associated accoutrements, the supplemental wood package did not cover. Whether some other wood supplier is selling those wood supplement packages today, you will have to check with Bob Hunt, I don’t know.
 
I’ve completed the remaining bulwarks forward of the waist and shown here unpainted and dry fitted with the pin rails. I then painted the bulwarks and assembled and glued their associated parts. All the fabricated bulwarks are shown in the last image.

Yes, I am slowly (what else is new?) continuing to make the spar deck bulwarks. I also had personal business, as well as visiting Mom in Florida who turned 101 early this month of June.
 
Most of the remaining bulwarks required pin rails. Continuing with my use of boxwood for any bare wood fabrication, the pin rails were made from 1/8” x 1/16” strips of boxwood. Because I know where the pin rails are going to be attached on the bulwarks, I left gaps devoid of simulated bolt heads where the pin rails were to be installed. Notice that the belay pin holes are close to the edge and not centered on the board. That is the way they are supposed to be as shown on the plans and as pointed out in Robert Hunt’s practicum.

Hi Mates,
 
Been away from the shipyard for a couple of weeks. Added a few minor bits – but first
 
Dave: thanks very much as an avid follower of your cross-section – very touching - thanks again
 
Federicoaa: I looked briefly at the rigging sheets some time ago, as I am close to adding pinrails and blocks to the deck (no rigging at this point). Yes, you are right some lines do not have locations noted – My solution is in the last photo. This build will not go into any competition haha- so line locations are not SO important. That said somehow someway the Admiral will notice any line/pin errors hahaha
 
Ferit: I think that you posted a question about how hull stairs could be climbed. That has been a question for me as well. Found very little at “Google University” – but there are apparently two methods – one of which I photographed from the 74 Gun ship bible  book 2 (Jean Boudroit)
 
With regard to stair alignments – Chose, the easier of the two solutions. well it is what it is.
 
E.J.  from your log - great idea for side skid contours.
 
Cheers,
 

Frank: The knightheads will go through the upper deck and attach to the upper gun deck floor. Also need to figure out what kinds of  details to those four. The ship was first rate - so certainly the knightheads were sculpted as well.  BTW the kit provided pins are way too large. Will toss those - and gold metal no less.
 

I am on R&R today so more modelling time.  
 
Instruction Reference 1
I have fitted the 4mm plywood frames and transom to the 4mm plywood keel and I found these to be a very accurate and tight fit. I have decided not to glue them, as far as I can see, they are not going anywhere. There are small 4mm ply reinforcing parts at the transom and bow that need gluing in but I have left these for the time being.
 
Instruction Reference 2
I then fitted what is called up in the instructions as the deck, not sure this is the correct term? This was laser cut from 1.5mm plywood and I found this to be very troublesome part, it was quite difficult to get in position and I was afraid of damaging it. Once it was in, however, it was not going anywhere.  I will need to glue /clamp to get it to fit flush to all the frames.
 
Photographs
Hopefully these don't need any explanation.
 
By the way I am using an iPhone 4, it's a work phone given to me in 2012. I am adverse to lining Apples pockets however perhaps now's the time to ask my employer to get me the latest model or maybe I should just invest in a digital camera!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

This little boat presents little problems that although fixable, are infuriating. Those glossy catalogue sequences obfuscate more than they reveal. No plans of course. I'll be following this in parallel; best of luck to you!
 
Edit: the Captain was Don Cosme Damián de Churruca y Elorza. He died during the battle of Trafalgar after showing enormous bravery. This kit is very close in design to the Bounty's boat, also by AL.
 
Nika.

And we're off at section 1 of this absurdly anaemic and futile instruction booklet. As above, no images but bear with.
 
Typical plank on frame construction guide; all is well except for part 2, the bulkhead/frame at the very bow of the boat. Now, I am sure its impossible to incorrectly slot in frame 2 into the false keel unless common sense deserted me. I can also tie my own shoelaces. Regardless, the pointy apron prefab part rested 1cm too high on the bulkhead 2 at an angle of what... 25 degrees downward or more from the stem. Enter said bastard file to remedy the situation. A whole cm cubed of sawdust for my travails.
 
Section 3, oh my!
 
The instructions here would have you add the complete floorboard section, but how're you going to have the option to gradually stain the inside of the hull with this stuff occluding it? Should be much later in the guide. Add the 'batayolas' which are the large horizontal boards immediately in front of the transom. Problem. If you fit the planking to the outside of the transom, there'll be a 4mm gap beside these batayolas and hull, for an ugly 8mm of combined gappiness. Inside, it fits better but you arent supposed to do that here. Gaps are a big problem, as you will see. 
Reference to ply sheet B. The ply sheets here are 1 to 4, inclusive, instead. This is because we're sharing the instructions with AL's jollybountyboat kit, but slightly modified.
 
Section 4.
 
Add the thwarts, all six of them. Again, it makes staining or painting nearly impossible, inside the gappy hull. Should take this step later in the process for ease of assembly.
 
Section 6
 
File down the bulkheads so the planking will hug the hull around the plywood 'collar'. The tighter, the better. Thing is, there is no way the curvature of the forward hull will allow avoidance of a 3mm gap each side of the walnut apron prefab thingy no matter how much wood is removed to obtain a good close fit between frame and plank. You're going to have to find a method to plug all these visible gaps.
 
Section 8, the star of the show.
 
Initial planking -or battening- as AL likes to say. It clearly states here that first planking is a mixture of prefab smaller and wider planks, parts 27, 28 and 29 and plain old wood strips of the linden variety. 
There are no prefab parts 27,28 and 29. 
Just the 1.5 x 4mm linden bundle, as generous as it is. The accompanying illustration resembles the fore section of the Hindenburg dirigible blimp. But festooned with brass nail-heads. Can you picture this mess? You're going to have to bite the bullet and plank away with the strips as best you can because of noplan and this disgrace of a guide. Recall, there's a second planking of 0.5 x 4mm sappele to be done later -btw later images show a near-complete model without this second layer -just nailhead after nailhead sort of sticking out of the linden-planked hull. 
It'd be nice to line the inside hull with the sappele, but with so many parts already suggested as glued in, good luck!
 
Section 10 shows both layers of planking. Look carefully and you could find a clean way out of this confusion as the first planking and how it was applied is visible. It works too, for the love of God. Amazing.
I won't mention the unfinished photoshopping in subsequent sections. There are images with parts added by visible bits of wire, but they forgot to airbrush them out... One image consists of a rudder covered crudely with freshly applied 'plastic wood', the hinges of which sort of cut into some very rough shapes...
Meh. Other stuff. Missing parts, and
"Please refer to the accompanying rigging guide "
 
There is no rigging guide (only one brief insert covers it all). The instructions broadly omit how to attach sails and rigging. Nice work AL!
 
***
We must persevere. Life is a beach. Even with its 400 metre Skyscraper mast and its lovely wooden bucket/khazi, we must persevere.
. 
But please, if you are new to the hobby, stay away from this hideous cash-grab derived from another kit (Bounty jollyboat). It almost killed my interest in boats all together, this is that bad.
 
Its name: 1/25th scale San Juan de Nepomuceno Captain's boat. Dear God.

Thanks again for the comments and likes. Nikiphoros, that's the labarum, isn't it? Maybe one day I'll do a fourth century ship and use it, but I've got too many on my wish list already . . .  
 
I've finished the banner. The first thing I did (after flattening the foil out and removing all the crinkles) was score the surface of the foil with the pattern I proposed to paint.

 
Then I put the paint on with a fine watercolour paintbrush, one colour at a time with drying time between colours. I wasn't too careful about staying within the borders of the "tails" because I was going to cut them out later.

I realised I'd forgotten to allow enough "fabric" at the hoist so I could add the halyard, so I had to ad some more foil with CA. Unfortunately, wherever this touched the paint it messed it up and I had to re-do it in several places. 

And here's the finished Imperial banner. I'm pretty happy with it; the enamel paint sticks to the foil very well, and the foil is so light it supports itself while looking like the tails are moving in the wind.

Another thing I've been playing with - getting a bit ahead of myself, but I tend to do that - is making a three-sheaved block based on one from the Serce Limani wreck of c. 1025 AD. Here's the block as found, plus a reconstruction drawing, from the 1983 thesis of Sheila Diane Mathews for a Master of Arts with Texas A&M University. I've differed slightly with her interpretation - I think for symmetry of forces there should be three holes at the base, not two.
 
I've no idea if I'll be able to use this on the dromon model - I'm not all that good at visualising how blocks and tackle work together, and I'm going to have to do a lot of figuring out of just what fits where - but it was just fun to do, even if I never use it.
 
There's also a single sheaved block from Serce Limani, and I think I'll be much more likely to find a use for this one. However, I haven't made it yet.

Here's the "blank" I made it from. I think it's plum wood, but I've got a bit disorganised with my wood pile. This was version 1.

I discovered that the drill I had (0.6mm) was too big, so I had to go down to what I think is 0.2mm.

That worked a treat, though very exacting doing such tiny work (and without a drill press - I really must get myself one sometime soon).

So there it is. My next projects will be making the chain pump and trying out my design for the upper oarbenches. I've already made (gasp!) the first upper oarsman roughly in plasticiene (modelling clay) and got his approximate shape. Now I'll have to do it more exactly in wax to see how he fits with the bench and the oar.
 
Steven 

Forge onwards, Niki. I believe that you can still turn this into a very acceptable little boat.

When searching for details about 18:th century naval guns i stumbled on this interesting online-book that is published on google books: Artillery: "An Illustrated History of Its Impact"
Sorry if it already has been discussed here earlier, I couldn't find anything when I searched the forum anyway.
Perhaps it is of value for someone?

Sorry, you are right.  The kit has two sheets for keel and bulkheads in MDF and all other wooden laser cut parts are limewood (1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm and 3mm). The stand is in laser cut clear acetate. Seven laser cut sheets of different materials in all. There are three photo etched brass sheets, 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6mm thicknesses (which includes a nameplate for the stand). First planking is 1.5x5 limewood, second planking and other hull strips is pear wood and deck planking is boxwood. Six different rigging threads, resin cast main and small winch drum, cast metal cannon and anchors, and a full colour 56 page plan and instruction manual with parts list in A3 format. 

I should have a review and kit contents posted next week for you all. 

The more you look at each image, the more you superlativise (new word). Incredible. Now if anyone can re-imagine Constantine's Imperial barge of say, 340 330 AD... close your eyes... the exotic mystique of Konstantinoupolis compels you....
 
You can open them now.
 
You recall I like my flags: have a Fausta, St. Helena and the Imperator himself. Just in case you need a motivation for the future.