WBlakeny

Hello Albert and John Allen, it is very important for me that you like my work
 Thanks friends, I pass new images.
A hug, Liberto

I glue the false keel on the keel. A friend made two brass tubes with screw thread to mount the model. The tubes are bolted on the building plate an two holes with a slight larger diameter then the tubes are drilled in the keel. The keel is pushed on the tubes with some glue in the holes.

I start my project with making a ground plan of the cross section and gluing that plan on a piece of MDF sheet.

Really delicate!
How do you solder them? I would expect the heat to transfer really fast, you heat one area and all joints around it pop loose...

Continue

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I realized that I have mounted the hat of the light on the contrary, but fortunately it's only temporary, to make pictures....   

Hi friends, thank you all cometarios you do, this encourages me and even more coming from such experienced modelers, thank you comrades.
Of course I will continue to pass images of the advances I am making.
The supports are made by me, the design is our companion Chimista, and can effectively adapt very well to our need.
Os paso pictures, saludos Liberto

Rudder.
 
While waiting for more timber to continue construction of the ship's boats some more hull detailing has been completed.
 
Cheers,
 
David.
 

And the rest is mere detailing.
 

All still done with popsicle sticks, except the glass and the carpet in the well (which is a piece of 240 grade sandpaper).
The finish isn't as good as I would have liked, but I had many attempts to get things perfect and failed. But I had to live up to my name and I've had a lot of fun constructing it.
Completed.
 

Progress is very slow, spent just an hour in the workshop
Installed remaining counter timbers. Transom is quite skewed, so impossible to achieve a proper symmetry - but I hope I will hide most of it when planking one side of it. The goal is to align windows on planked side with the counter timbers on the unplanked one.

 

 
Now fairing the timbers, the outermost counter timbers had a wrong angle.
File is good enough for it:

 
Btw, found a very nice scalper saw blades in the local hobby shop, was positively surprised! They could be found by "model craft saw set" query, and exist in two types. 

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.   
 
Pat... I don't think DARPA will care... they have bigger lasers... much bigger like mulit-MW.  
 
 
Here's the update..  Center line planking is finished and sanded.  I've added the bitts that needed to be installed before the planking was done.  I'm working on the three ladders going down to the lower deck while I still have access to that.  I'd hate to drop one and then figure out how to fish it out.  Seems Mr. Murphy has been running rampant around these parts lately.
 
I'm also in the process of building the coamings and grates.  I'm going to put blue tape over them before doing the rest of the planking and ceiling just to keep crap from dropping down into the interior.  I'm still wanting to keep as much of the furniture out of the way as I can for the ceiling spalls so those other bits and pieces will have to wait.
 
As a sidenote, I only sanded of the loose char and ash as ended up with a nice thin black line between planks for the caulking.  
 
Pressing on.....    and as always, comments, critiques, better ideas, are always welcome.
 

 

Hi Guys,  
   
 
At the beginning of the year, I began to build the Dutch flagship De Eendracht for a good friend. My friend Werner has been reconstructing the ship for about 16 years, and has been traveling a lot in the Netherlands in the archives. He gave me the manuscript of his book and the plans of the ship.  
 
The Eendracht was built in Rotterdam in 1654 by the shipbuilders Goossen Schalck van der Arent and Jan Salomonszon van der Tempel. The ship had a length of 152 feet and a width of 38 feet. The ship was armed in 1654 with 58 guns.  
 
The Eendracht was the flagship of Jacob van Wassenaer Obdam in the naval battle of Lowesoft, where she exploded.  
 
Since there are many drawings by van de Velde from the Eendracht, I have laid down the basis for the Brielle van de Velde.  
 
And off we go, we're going to build.  
 
   
 
Here the van de Velde drawings of Brielle  
 
   
 
Regards Kay  
 

 

Ship's Boats.
 
After a bit of a break I have got back into construction and have completed the first of the 5 ship's boats, the 28'launch.
 
I shaped a solid balsa block template rather than the previous method i had used for the Bounty boats when I made up the template from individual balsa strips spaced to the rib pattern.
 
Cheers,
 
David.
 
     
 
                                               
 
 

Hello,
First. I changed the name of my build log in too
“Golden Hind : A English galleon late 16th century”   (Seems more appropriate)
New frames are drawn on paper and cut out.

There are now more frames used on the bow and the stern than first planned

 
Then the frames are drawn on plywood and sawed. The beam is 4 cm narrower than the one on the plans.
The hull proportions are
KEEL / BEAM : 2.80
DEPTH / BEAM : 0.50

 
All the frames are made too high ( sawing off a piece of is easier than to glueing on)

 
Reinforcements are sawn from plywood and glued to the keel.




 
The frames are not glued yet. But  are now temporarily attached to the keel. So  i can see if they fit and that outside can be sanded where needed.
When the outside is sanded, the frames are removed again so that the inside of the frames can be sawed out.

 
The sawing of the inside of the frames can begin.
I made myself  a simple tool for this .

 
The first frames are aligned and glued.

 
All the frames are now aligned and glued.


 
Visible parts of the frames on the upper decks will later be replaced by solid wood.
It looks like I go in the right direction I think.

 
The shipyard is now temporarily "on hold"
Autumn and winter period is for me : military modeling.
But I remain of course to follow MSW.
 
Groetjes
Greetings
Patrick

I've finished her.
 
Here are the photos, don't look too much at the mistakes. I know she has many but i'm so proud of her.
 





 
Me and the Admiral had a toast on her finishing.
 

Hi Mark -
 
Checking in again and love what I am seeing.  Those deck beams are very nicely done, and you should be justifiably proud of them.
 
As for decking, you have to be careful about the differences between British and French practice.  Since the French were strategically blockaded by the British for most of this period, their ship designs favored speed over carrying capacity.  With lighter hulls and scantlings they could make more knots, but the ships 'worked' much more than their British counterpart of similar size.  To counteract this they strengthened the decks with longitudinal stiffeners called binding strakes that were thicker and set into the deck beams, much the way the stringers stiffened the fuselage in those balsa wood planes we all built as kids.
 
Here are several contemporary cross sections of French ships.  Note that the outer binding strakes are set into the deck beams but do not rise above the deck surface. However, the ones toward the center rise above the rest of the deck level.  In fact, the entire center section of the deck is raised.  Frequently these binding strakes are shown on models as being contrasting color from the rest of the deck.  Whether this was true on actual ships, I do not know.
 
Further, as seen in the models, the gratings are set flush with this raised section of deck and do not have the coamings that are such a feature of British ships.
 
Didn't mean to make extra work for you, but hope it helps.
 
Be well
 
Dan
 
 
 
 
  

As an alternative to the tiled roof, I added a curved wooden roof that would have been covered in tar to waterproof it like below the waterline. Also added the hatch covers.The whole thing will of course be weathered so the colors won't be so strong when finished.
 Dan.
 

The classic wood Dragon sailboat. 
 
The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker from Norway in 1929.  The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe.  It's one of the worlds most popular keelboats with Dragon Fleets the world over.  Between 1948 and 1972 the Dragon class was raced in the Olympic Games.  The early boats were constructed of wood but during the early 1970s fiberglass boats were developed. The controlled development of the class has lead to a classic yet modern keelboat.
 
Back in the day, there were two Dragons moored at Montrose Harbor, 'Sea Pup' was one.  Dragons sit low in the water and they are the fastest looking boats in the harbor.  The classic wood Dragons are just plain gorgeous!  Be still my heart.    
  
I purchased the Corel 1:25 Dragon kit a few years ago.  As usual I'll be making some changes to the build.  Most significant change is the hull will only be painted below the water line.  The wood that came with the kit is nice and will look good with a varnish finish.  My collection of modeling tools will fit inside a shoe box with room for the shoes:  Straightedge razor blades, metal files in two sizes, X-acto knife with #11 blades, wire cutters, various sanding sticks that I made, sandpaper, micro drill, CA and PVA glue, a digital caliper and a 6" metal ruler that doubles as a scraper.  For some of the decking and mast, I'll add a soldering iron.     
 
On woodenboat.com there's a thread titled "Time for a Dragon Thread" with lots of eye candy photos.  Check it out!  The new Dragons are high tech boats.  Here's an except from an article about Dragons by Matthew Sheahan in Yachting World, July 3, 2015.  The new fiberglass Dragons look fast, but they have too many "strings".  Check out that photo of the bolt on keel being machined.    
 
The Corel Dragon kit is the typical Corel kit, great drawings, nice wood, lots of little parts and instructions that are less than so-so.  But the drawings are great and have logic to the way they are laid out. 
 
I started building 'Puff' last Spring.  But between June 1 and August 30, I spent 35 days on the road at out of state events, another 25 days at local events and a few more days for event preparation and post event paperwork and poof! Where did the summer go?  
 
The hull planking is done and starting to work on the cuddy and add the benches to the cockpit.  The hull will be painted below the waterline, right now I'm thinking a teal blue or ultramarine blue.  Above the waterline, I'll add a few coats of poly. 
 
I don't have a lot of photos, but enough to recreate the build.      
 
Dee Dee
 
 
 
Chris Destano, 5 River Road  #123, Wilton CT 
 

I recently retired, and having no current hobby apart from reading, decided that I'd take up model-making.  
 My first attempt was a plastic kit set sailing ship (U.S.S. Constitution - Revell 1:146). I wanted a sailing ship  
 
 so I could take a lot of time rigging it. The model has three suggestions for rigging; easy (just the moulded  
 
 shrouds/ratlines), medium ( a few ropes) and hard (fully rigged). It was the first model I'd made in 50 years   
 
and I made plenty of mistakes. But - from a distance, with the light behind her - she doesn't look too bad.  
 
But as a retired person I have limited money, limited workshop room and tools, and unlimited time.   
 
Complex plastic models are expensive so I decided to build a wooden model from scratch.  
 
   
 
I found the plans of the motor launch Antares on the net. It is an attractive vessel and I thought it would do as a beginner's project.  
 
The plans assume it is motorised and radio-controlled, but my interest is in the making, not the playing with. So I would omit these.  
 
   
 
Just to make life really interesting I decided to build the entire thing out of popsicle sticks. In the absence of the expensive tools that grace the workbenches of some of the model-making community, having pre-machined wood would simplify some aspects of construction (and complicate others). Besides, I wanted to show off a real planking deck.  
 
   
 
But the real purpose was to require serious thinking in changing the design to suit the materials. Anything to stave off senility!  
 
   
 
(For people interested in a proper build project of the Antares by a newbie see  
 
 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2008415 It has some excellent photographs and useful discussions.)  
 
   
 
However, although I have always loved working with my hands, I am a real butcher - thus the handle. So a model made of recalcitrant fiddly bits is going to be a real challenge.  
 
   
 
I read the caveats for newbies, and have progressed the model somewhat before I took the plunge to start this blog.  
 
   
 
Because the model would not be motorised I could build solid bulkheads for much of the hull, rather than the frames in the plans. But to get a solid bulkhead from small pieces requires constructing plywood.  
 
 
 
The bulkheads were straightforward to assemble, but the first constraint became immediately obvious when it came to making the keel. The plan has a nicely curved stem. I had to have a very straight stem because the sticks were not wide enough to give a curve. (I subsequently concluded that I could have taken more trouble and built a curved stem, but that was hindsight). This decision would give me trouble with the chine line later.  
 
   
 
I glued the two layers of (large) popsicle sticks together using a multi-purpose glue, one layer on one direction and one in the other to give them strength.  I cut the bulkheads roughly to shape using a child's coping saw - it was the blade with the smallest set and smallest teeth I could find.  
 
   
 
The sticks appear to be made out of pine (pinus radiata) and I soon found that where I hadn't glued with a full coat there was a tendency for the wood to splinter. I wound up doing some after-the-fact gluing, and inserting replacement pieces where chunks had fallen out. I did final bulkhead shaping with an orbital sander.  
 
   
 
The keel is made of three layers; two on the outside being normal-width sticks and the middle being the wider and longer sticks. The purpose of this was to give slots in the base of the bulkheads somewhere to attach to (i.e. to the middle layer of the keel).   
 
   
 
I built a multi-purpose jig out of a piece of wood with numerous nail-holes, laid the keel and attached the bulkheads with their slots cut to it. It was immediately obvious that the #1 bulkhead would have to be omitted as the straight stem wouldn't accommodate it.  
 
 
 
The jig wasn't totally successful for this; not all the bulkheads turned out to be held square to the keel!  
 
 
 
   
 
Once I'd glued all the bulkheads in place it became obvious that not all the slots I'd cut in the bulkheads were the full depth required! I.e. the tops didn't all align (and neither did all the sides, but that would be bad shaping) and some bulkheads didn't sit hard on top of the keel - this would give problems with mounting the garboards etc later.  
 
Time to use the trusty orbital sander for corrections; at least to the top and sides. Corrections to allow even hull planking would have to wait.  

I mean to try this in conjunction with my HMS Cheerful. There is no Cheerful log yet but there will be soon.
I have been prevented from doing much model making recently as "life" got in the way......as it tends to do.
I look forward to gaining access to the Triton plans.
Mike.

Hello,
 
So I printed plans of frames, numbered them and glued them on 5mm thick wallnut sheet. here was important to glue the pieces straight and correct - as I later recognized and must redo 5 pieces, but with 9x11 pieces it was ok.
And then made a little dust in my living room with scrollsaw. I enjoyed this work and with my proxxon saw blades it was quickly. 
I clean up ends of every piece , for this I has no machine, but for this was enough chisel and sandpaper glued on small rectangular wooden stick.
I glued each plan of assemly on a small platte 9mm MDF. And then try and adjust the pieces until it finally clicked together.
I glued them step by step I let the glue to dry and then added other pieces.
Little training with treenails.   

A stunning result! 
That nameplate really puts the cherry on the cake.

Hope you don't mind having me along. Interesting project!
 
The Revell "Golden Hind"  was one of the first models i've built as well, about 25 years ago. 

A stunning result! 
That nameplate really puts the cherry on the cake.

Hope you don't mind having me along. Interesting project!
 
The Revell "Golden Hind"  was one of the first models i've built as well, about 25 years ago. 

A stunning result! 
That nameplate really puts the cherry on the cake.