vaddoc

Well, as we all know time is relative so I guess two and a half years since my last post is not a long time! Ladies and gentlemen, the Launch is back in drydock.
 
During this time I ve been working on the Yawl. Now, both boats have hulls made of beech wood so the Launch suffered the same fate. The planks constantly change dimensions in response to changes in moisture and shrunk a lot reaching equilibrium after initial steaming. Beech has huge movement in service. 
 
However, the Launch faired better, I think because the planks are not as acutely bent as in the Yawl so did not need so much steaming and boiling. The filler between the planks is almost intact and the planks have moved in only a few areas. In the bow some nails seem to have failed.



These need to be fixed and the hull needs to be sealed inside and out to prevent movement as much as possible. However, I plan to paint the hull so I will use filler more extensively to smooth it out a bit, since paint will highlight every single imperfection.
 
So I drilled some nails out, push the planks in place and things improved.


Then, I applied filler very generously. I nowadays use Osmo, it dries very quickly, does not shrink, is hard but still sands very nicely. This is where we are now.

We rarely know what our future holds but mine certainly has a lot of sanding.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc
 

Well, as we all know time is relative so I guess two and a half years since my last post is not a long time! Ladies and gentlemen, the Launch is back in drydock.
 
During this time I ve been working on the Yawl. Now, both boats have hulls made of beech wood so the Launch suffered the same fate. The planks constantly change dimensions in response to changes in moisture and shrunk a lot reaching equilibrium after initial steaming. Beech has huge movement in service. 
 
However, the Launch faired better, I think because the planks are not as acutely bent as in the Yawl so did not need so much steaming and boiling. The filler between the planks is almost intact and the planks have moved in only a few areas. In the bow some nails seem to have failed.



These need to be fixed and the hull needs to be sealed inside and out to prevent movement as much as possible. However, I plan to paint the hull so I will use filler more extensively to smooth it out a bit, since paint will highlight every single imperfection.
 
So I drilled some nails out, push the planks in place and things improved.


Then, I applied filler very generously. I nowadays use Osmo, it dries very quickly, does not shrink, is hard but still sands very nicely. This is where we are now.

We rarely know what our future holds but mine certainly has a lot of sanding.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc
 

Ok, I used it a bit today.
Really quiet, this is a massive advantage. Also the larger sanding area is very useful. However there are a couple of possible issues.
 
The table is secured in the horizontal by two screw on friction plates on either side, these seem to give in while working. I may be wrong though. Time will tell.
 
Also it does not spin true, there is a slight wobble. I am not sure whether it is the disc or the way the sand paper has been glued on. I guess I should not complain as this is not really intended to be a precision tool, like the Byrnes tools. On the other hand, I have a feeling it will not be a problem as I tried to sand to a line and it went fine. I ll do a bit more sanding. 
I need to change the paper though as it came with what looks like 80 grit, I need to swap to 120 grit.
 

Well, as we all know time is relative so I guess two and a half years since my last post is not a long time! Ladies and gentlemen, the Launch is back in drydock.
 
During this time I ve been working on the Yawl. Now, both boats have hulls made of beech wood so the Launch suffered the same fate. The planks constantly change dimensions in response to changes in moisture and shrunk a lot reaching equilibrium after initial steaming. Beech has huge movement in service. 
 
However, the Launch faired better, I think because the planks are not as acutely bent as in the Yawl so did not need so much steaming and boiling. The filler between the planks is almost intact and the planks have moved in only a few areas. In the bow some nails seem to have failed.



These need to be fixed and the hull needs to be sealed inside and out to prevent movement as much as possible. However, I plan to paint the hull so I will use filler more extensively to smooth it out a bit, since paint will highlight every single imperfection.
 
So I drilled some nails out, push the planks in place and things improved.


Then, I applied filler very generously. I nowadays use Osmo, it dries very quickly, does not shrink, is hard but still sands very nicely. This is where we are now.

We rarely know what our future holds but mine certainly has a lot of sanding.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc
 

Well, as we all know time is relative so I guess two and a half years since my last post is not a long time! Ladies and gentlemen, the Launch is back in drydock.
 
During this time I ve been working on the Yawl. Now, both boats have hulls made of beech wood so the Launch suffered the same fate. The planks constantly change dimensions in response to changes in moisture and shrunk a lot reaching equilibrium after initial steaming. Beech has huge movement in service. 
 
However, the Launch faired better, I think because the planks are not as acutely bent as in the Yawl so did not need so much steaming and boiling. The filler between the planks is almost intact and the planks have moved in only a few areas. In the bow some nails seem to have failed.



These need to be fixed and the hull needs to be sealed inside and out to prevent movement as much as possible. However, I plan to paint the hull so I will use filler more extensively to smooth it out a bit, since paint will highlight every single imperfection.
 
So I drilled some nails out, push the planks in place and things improved.


Then, I applied filler very generously. I nowadays use Osmo, it dries very quickly, does not shrink, is hard but still sands very nicely. This is where we are now.

We rarely know what our future holds but mine certainly has a lot of sanding.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc
 

Well, as we all know time is relative so I guess two and a half years since my last post is not a long time! Ladies and gentlemen, the Launch is back in drydock.
 
During this time I ve been working on the Yawl. Now, both boats have hulls made of beech wood so the Launch suffered the same fate. The planks constantly change dimensions in response to changes in moisture and shrunk a lot reaching equilibrium after initial steaming. Beech has huge movement in service. 
 
However, the Launch faired better, I think because the planks are not as acutely bent as in the Yawl so did not need so much steaming and boiling. The filler between the planks is almost intact and the planks have moved in only a few areas. In the bow some nails seem to have failed.



These need to be fixed and the hull needs to be sealed inside and out to prevent movement as much as possible. However, I plan to paint the hull so I will use filler more extensively to smooth it out a bit, since paint will highlight every single imperfection.
 
So I drilled some nails out, push the planks in place and things improved.


Then, I applied filler very generously. I nowadays use Osmo, it dries very quickly, does not shrink, is hard but still sands very nicely. This is where we are now.

We rarely know what our future holds but mine certainly has a lot of sanding.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc
 

Ok, I used it a bit today.
Really quiet, this is a massive advantage. Also the larger sanding area is very useful. However there are a couple of possible issues.
 
The table is secured in the horizontal by two screw on friction plates on either side, these seem to give in while working. I may be wrong though. Time will tell.
 
Also it does not spin true, there is a slight wobble. I am not sure whether it is the disc or the way the sand paper has been glued on. I guess I should not complain as this is not really intended to be a precision tool, like the Byrnes tools. On the other hand, I have a feeling it will not be a problem as I tried to sand to a line and it went fine. I ll do a bit more sanding. 
I need to change the paper though as it came with what looks like 80 grit, I need to swap to 120 grit.
 

Dear all
 
Before anything else, my condolences. I ve never had the pleasure of even seeing a machine made by Mr Byrnes but I can recognise their quality and his contribution to this and other hobbies and professions. 
 
I d like to share my recent addition to the shipyard, an Axminster 300 mm disc sander.
 
Now, a bit of background. The disc sander is the tool I use the most. I find far more accurate to cut the pieces close to the template line and then sand accurately to the line. I create bevels and even sand brass pieces. Closer to the outer part of the disc, it spins faster and takes off material fast. Closer to the center where it spins slower, allows more precision work. I really could not do without one. 
 
For years now I had a 200 mm disc sander I made myself with pieces of plywood and MDF, an old drill and a small voltage regulator. It worked very well and served faithfully (and noisily) for years with minimal maintenance. Overall cost was about £10...

 
However, I recently managed to destroy the flatness of the disc changing the sand paper so I took the plunge and decided to upgrade. 200 mm is the absolute minimum I think and 300 is much better for the 1:10 scale I like, considering that less than half of this sanding surface is available. There are many disc sanders on the market but I went with Axminster, mainly thinking I may have better customer support. A bit of discount on offer helped as well to pull the trigger.
 
First impressions: Well built, very heavy! Came in well boxed.


 
The legs are adjustable. The table is large enough, the gap to the disc is between 4 and 5 mm. It looks easy enough to add a bit of MDF to customise things a bit. There is a guide supplied which works well, the tolerances are tight enough and it does not wobble - it seems entirely usable. The angle of the table is adjustable and it was easy to set it to 90 degrees - or close enough.

The sander is very quiet. The speed seems ideal. It actually blows air out of the extraction port on operation so even without a vacuum the dust can be directed. The disc runs true. Overall very happy.
 
So out with the old and in with the new!

I think the sanding discs are proprietary or something similar but I did not really looked into it much, I am not too bothered.
I ll update after I ve used it a bit.
 
Vaddoc

Well, as we all know time is relative so I guess two and a half years since my last post is not a long time! Ladies and gentlemen, the Launch is back in drydock.
 
During this time I ve been working on the Yawl. Now, both boats have hulls made of beech wood so the Launch suffered the same fate. The planks constantly change dimensions in response to changes in moisture and shrunk a lot reaching equilibrium after initial steaming. Beech has huge movement in service. 
 
However, the Launch faired better, I think because the planks are not as acutely bent as in the Yawl so did not need so much steaming and boiling. The filler between the planks is almost intact and the planks have moved in only a few areas. In the bow some nails seem to have failed.



These need to be fixed and the hull needs to be sealed inside and out to prevent movement as much as possible. However, I plan to paint the hull so I will use filler more extensively to smooth it out a bit, since paint will highlight every single imperfection.
 
So I drilled some nails out, push the planks in place and things improved.


Then, I applied filler very generously. I nowadays use Osmo, it dries very quickly, does not shrink, is hard but still sands very nicely. This is where we are now.

We rarely know what our future holds but mine certainly has a lot of sanding.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc
 

It looks like a nice piece of equipment sold at a reasonable price.  I had not heard of Axminster and was surprised to learn that they sell/ship to the USA.  With the sad and untimely passing of Jim Byrnes and hopefully temporary closing of his business this particular tool might be a good alternative.
 
I agree that disc sanders are a valuable addition to the modelers workshop.  I have two; a 4” Jarmac used by professional model makers back before 3D CAD when industrial installations were physically modeled to check for piping, equipment , and structural steel interferences.  By today’s standards it’s a poor piece of equipment- very high speed, flimsy, and noisy.  It conveniently sits on my workbench doing what it is supposed to do on light weight stock.  My second tool is a 12” homemade tool that runs on the same shaft as my thickness sander.  Operating at much slower speed it works on much thicker material.  Like you both are useful for precise shaping of sawn materials.
 
Roger

Dear all
 
Before anything else, my condolences. I ve never had the pleasure of even seeing a machine made by Mr Byrnes but I can recognise their quality and his contribution to this and other hobbies and professions. 
 
I d like to share my recent addition to the shipyard, an Axminster 300 mm disc sander.
 
Now, a bit of background. The disc sander is the tool I use the most. I find far more accurate to cut the pieces close to the template line and then sand accurately to the line. I create bevels and even sand brass pieces. Closer to the outer part of the disc, it spins faster and takes off material fast. Closer to the center where it spins slower, allows more precision work. I really could not do without one. 
 
For years now I had a 200 mm disc sander I made myself with pieces of plywood and MDF, an old drill and a small voltage regulator. It worked very well and served faithfully (and noisily) for years with minimal maintenance. Overall cost was about £10...

 
However, I recently managed to destroy the flatness of the disc changing the sand paper so I took the plunge and decided to upgrade. 200 mm is the absolute minimum I think and 300 is much better for the 1:10 scale I like, considering that less than half of this sanding surface is available. There are many disc sanders on the market but I went with Axminster, mainly thinking I may have better customer support. A bit of discount on offer helped as well to pull the trigger.
 
First impressions: Well built, very heavy! Came in well boxed.


 
The legs are adjustable. The table is large enough, the gap to the disc is between 4 and 5 mm. It looks easy enough to add a bit of MDF to customise things a bit. There is a guide supplied which works well, the tolerances are tight enough and it does not wobble - it seems entirely usable. The angle of the table is adjustable and it was easy to set it to 90 degrees - or close enough.

The sander is very quiet. The speed seems ideal. It actually blows air out of the extraction port on operation so even without a vacuum the dust can be directed. The disc runs true. Overall very happy.
 
So out with the old and in with the new!

I think the sanding discs are proprietary or something similar but I did not really looked into it much, I am not too bothered.
I ll update after I ve used it a bit.
 
Vaddoc

I second what Morgan has said as Axminster products are very good.  Go in any Axminster shop and you will meet sales people that know exactly what they are selling and are honest about the tools capability too. 

Hi Vaddoc,
 
I doubt you’ll go wrong with your sander.  Axminster customer service is excellent, ans are their products.  
 
As a specialised woodworking supplier they know their business and what customers want from them. 
 
The Admiral has to place time limits on my store browsing when I visit, I could spend all day in there.
 
Gary

Dear all
 
Before anything else, my condolences. I ve never had the pleasure of even seeing a machine made by Mr Byrnes but I can recognise their quality and his contribution to this and other hobbies and professions. 
 
I d like to share my recent addition to the shipyard, an Axminster 300 mm disc sander.
 
Now, a bit of background. The disc sander is the tool I use the most. I find far more accurate to cut the pieces close to the template line and then sand accurately to the line. I create bevels and even sand brass pieces. Closer to the outer part of the disc, it spins faster and takes off material fast. Closer to the center where it spins slower, allows more precision work. I really could not do without one. 
 
For years now I had a 200 mm disc sander I made myself with pieces of plywood and MDF, an old drill and a small voltage regulator. It worked very well and served faithfully (and noisily) for years with minimal maintenance. Overall cost was about £10...

 
However, I recently managed to destroy the flatness of the disc changing the sand paper so I took the plunge and decided to upgrade. 200 mm is the absolute minimum I think and 300 is much better for the 1:10 scale I like, considering that less than half of this sanding surface is available. There are many disc sanders on the market but I went with Axminster, mainly thinking I may have better customer support. A bit of discount on offer helped as well to pull the trigger.
 
First impressions: Well built, very heavy! Came in well boxed.


 
The legs are adjustable. The table is large enough, the gap to the disc is between 4 and 5 mm. It looks easy enough to add a bit of MDF to customise things a bit. There is a guide supplied which works well, the tolerances are tight enough and it does not wobble - it seems entirely usable. The angle of the table is adjustable and it was easy to set it to 90 degrees - or close enough.

The sander is very quiet. The speed seems ideal. It actually blows air out of the extraction port on operation so even without a vacuum the dust can be directed. The disc runs true. Overall very happy.
 
So out with the old and in with the new!

I think the sanding discs are proprietary or something similar but I did not really looked into it much, I am not too bothered.
I ll update after I ve used it a bit.
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Before anything else, my condolences. I ve never had the pleasure of even seeing a machine made by Mr Byrnes but I can recognise their quality and his contribution to this and other hobbies and professions. 
 
I d like to share my recent addition to the shipyard, an Axminster 300 mm disc sander.
 
Now, a bit of background. The disc sander is the tool I use the most. I find far more accurate to cut the pieces close to the template line and then sand accurately to the line. I create bevels and even sand brass pieces. Closer to the outer part of the disc, it spins faster and takes off material fast. Closer to the center where it spins slower, allows more precision work. I really could not do without one. 
 
For years now I had a 200 mm disc sander I made myself with pieces of plywood and MDF, an old drill and a small voltage regulator. It worked very well and served faithfully (and noisily) for years with minimal maintenance. Overall cost was about £10...

 
However, I recently managed to destroy the flatness of the disc changing the sand paper so I took the plunge and decided to upgrade. 200 mm is the absolute minimum I think and 300 is much better for the 1:10 scale I like, considering that less than half of this sanding surface is available. There are many disc sanders on the market but I went with Axminster, mainly thinking I may have better customer support. A bit of discount on offer helped as well to pull the trigger.
 
First impressions: Well built, very heavy! Came in well boxed.


 
The legs are adjustable. The table is large enough, the gap to the disc is between 4 and 5 mm. It looks easy enough to add a bit of MDF to customise things a bit. There is a guide supplied which works well, the tolerances are tight enough and it does not wobble - it seems entirely usable. The angle of the table is adjustable and it was easy to set it to 90 degrees - or close enough.

The sander is very quiet. The speed seems ideal. It actually blows air out of the extraction port on operation so even without a vacuum the dust can be directed. The disc runs true. Overall very happy.
 
So out with the old and in with the new!

I think the sanding discs are proprietary or something similar but I did not really looked into it much, I am not too bothered.
I ll update after I ve used it a bit.
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Before anything else, my condolences. I ve never had the pleasure of even seeing a machine made by Mr Byrnes but I can recognise their quality and his contribution to this and other hobbies and professions. 
 
I d like to share my recent addition to the shipyard, an Axminster 300 mm disc sander.
 
Now, a bit of background. The disc sander is the tool I use the most. I find far more accurate to cut the pieces close to the template line and then sand accurately to the line. I create bevels and even sand brass pieces. Closer to the outer part of the disc, it spins faster and takes off material fast. Closer to the center where it spins slower, allows more precision work. I really could not do without one. 
 
For years now I had a 200 mm disc sander I made myself with pieces of plywood and MDF, an old drill and a small voltage regulator. It worked very well and served faithfully (and noisily) for years with minimal maintenance. Overall cost was about £10...

 
However, I recently managed to destroy the flatness of the disc changing the sand paper so I took the plunge and decided to upgrade. 200 mm is the absolute minimum I think and 300 is much better for the 1:10 scale I like, considering that less than half of this sanding surface is available. There are many disc sanders on the market but I went with Axminster, mainly thinking I may have better customer support. A bit of discount on offer helped as well to pull the trigger.
 
First impressions: Well built, very heavy! Came in well boxed.


 
The legs are adjustable. The table is large enough, the gap to the disc is between 4 and 5 mm. It looks easy enough to add a bit of MDF to customise things a bit. There is a guide supplied which works well, the tolerances are tight enough and it does not wobble - it seems entirely usable. The angle of the table is adjustable and it was easy to set it to 90 degrees - or close enough.

The sander is very quiet. The speed seems ideal. It actually blows air out of the extraction port on operation so even without a vacuum the dust can be directed. The disc runs true. Overall very happy.
 
So out with the old and in with the new!

I think the sanding discs are proprietary or something similar but I did not really looked into it much, I am not too bothered.
I ll update after I ve used it a bit.
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
The boat is finished! 
 
After a lot of head scratching I ended up with a solution for the davit sockets that looks reasonable. The davit it self was also quite challenging to make but I think it came out fine.

Last thing to do was to install the thole pins and the cleats.
I still need to take some proper photos, make some type of cradle and order a display case. I think it is also appropriate to order the print from the National Maritime Museum or place some compact version of these plans within the case - we ll see.









This has been a very enjoyable build and I certainly learned a lot. In future I will post pictures in the gallery.
 
In the mean time however, there is another hull that has been gathering dust waiting patiently to come back into the shipyard. I do hope you will join for the Chapelle's fishing launch. 
 
I regret I have not been able to keep up with many logs I had been following - This is a period that life demands too much from me!
 
My deepest thanks for your company and support in this journey
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Time for another update I think.
 
The boat is almost done!
 
So, I finished all the oars, they came out fine I think with no failures. But then, I had to figure out what finish to use. Now, they are made of maple which is very white and apparently notoriously difficult to stain. I tried painting the oars white, (using the previous short oars I had made), staining and just Tang oil. I did not like the white colour, staining went really badly no matter what I tried so it had to be Tung oil. Photo bellow.

So all oars are now ready

Next, I painted the rudder and I made the tiller. Now, the tiller has a bit of story behind it. About 3 years ago, I salvaged a small piece of wood from an apricot tree in my parents summer house, now gone. I wanted to use a bit of that wood in this boat so made the tiller out of it. Very nice wood, really hard.


Then I made the hinges, secured to both the rudder and boat with CA glue and small nails, cut from brass pins, dipped again in CA glue.



 
Now, next project was the oar locks. I ve no idea what would be used back then but I decided to use double thole pins. So I made the sacrificial base and rounded off some square pear strips.


So I think really close to finishing. Of course, the whole point is the davit - this is the reason the boat was built! I need to make the sockets and finish the davit.


I also need to make a few cleats. I also have some thin soft leather, maybe it would be nice to add a strip to the oars.
 
My very best wishes to all
Vaddoc
 

Expanded polystyrene is an underrated material aesthetically, however I was wondering if you were going to do a stand, & what sort of design?

Dear all
 
The boat is finished! 
 
After a lot of head scratching I ended up with a solution for the davit sockets that looks reasonable. The davit it self was also quite challenging to make but I think it came out fine.

Last thing to do was to install the thole pins and the cleats.
I still need to take some proper photos, make some type of cradle and order a display case. I think it is also appropriate to order the print from the National Maritime Museum or place some compact version of these plans within the case - we ll see.









This has been a very enjoyable build and I certainly learned a lot. In future I will post pictures in the gallery.
 
In the mean time however, there is another hull that has been gathering dust waiting patiently to come back into the shipyard. I do hope you will join for the Chapelle's fishing launch. 
 
I regret I have not been able to keep up with many logs I had been following - This is a period that life demands too much from me!
 
My deepest thanks for your company and support in this journey
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
Time for another update I think.
 
The boat is almost done!
 
So, I finished all the oars, they came out fine I think with no failures. But then, I had to figure out what finish to use. Now, they are made of maple which is very white and apparently notoriously difficult to stain. I tried painting the oars white, (using the previous short oars I had made), staining and just Tang oil. I did not like the white colour, staining went really badly no matter what I tried so it had to be Tung oil. Photo bellow.

So all oars are now ready

Next, I painted the rudder and I made the tiller. Now, the tiller has a bit of story behind it. About 3 years ago, I salvaged a small piece of wood from an apricot tree in my parents summer house, now gone. I wanted to use a bit of that wood in this boat so made the tiller out of it. Very nice wood, really hard.


Then I made the hinges, secured to both the rudder and boat with CA glue and small nails, cut from brass pins, dipped again in CA glue.



 
Now, next project was the oar locks. I ve no idea what would be used back then but I decided to use double thole pins. So I made the sacrificial base and rounded off some square pear strips.


So I think really close to finishing. Of course, the whole point is the davit - this is the reason the boat was built! I need to make the sockets and finish the davit.


I also need to make a few cleats. I also have some thin soft leather, maybe it would be nice to add a strip to the oars.
 
My very best wishes to all
Vaddoc
 

Dear all
 
The boat is finished! 
 
After a lot of head scratching I ended up with a solution for the davit sockets that looks reasonable. The davit it self was also quite challenging to make but I think it came out fine.

Last thing to do was to install the thole pins and the cleats.
I still need to take some proper photos, make some type of cradle and order a display case. I think it is also appropriate to order the print from the National Maritime Museum or place some compact version of these plans within the case - we ll see.









This has been a very enjoyable build and I certainly learned a lot. In future I will post pictures in the gallery.
 
In the mean time however, there is another hull that has been gathering dust waiting patiently to come back into the shipyard. I do hope you will join for the Chapelle's fishing launch. 
 
I regret I have not been able to keep up with many logs I had been following - This is a period that life demands too much from me!
 
My deepest thanks for your company and support in this journey
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
The boat is finished! 
 
After a lot of head scratching I ended up with a solution for the davit sockets that looks reasonable. The davit it self was also quite challenging to make but I think it came out fine.

Last thing to do was to install the thole pins and the cleats.
I still need to take some proper photos, make some type of cradle and order a display case. I think it is also appropriate to order the print from the National Maritime Museum or place some compact version of these plans within the case - we ll see.









This has been a very enjoyable build and I certainly learned a lot. In future I will post pictures in the gallery.
 
In the mean time however, there is another hull that has been gathering dust waiting patiently to come back into the shipyard. I do hope you will join for the Chapelle's fishing launch. 
 
I regret I have not been able to keep up with many logs I had been following - This is a period that life demands too much from me!
 
My deepest thanks for your company and support in this journey
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
The boat is finished! 
 
After a lot of head scratching I ended up with a solution for the davit sockets that looks reasonable. The davit it self was also quite challenging to make but I think it came out fine.

Last thing to do was to install the thole pins and the cleats.
I still need to take some proper photos, make some type of cradle and order a display case. I think it is also appropriate to order the print from the National Maritime Museum or place some compact version of these plans within the case - we ll see.









This has been a very enjoyable build and I certainly learned a lot. In future I will post pictures in the gallery.
 
In the mean time however, there is another hull that has been gathering dust waiting patiently to come back into the shipyard. I do hope you will join for the Chapelle's fishing launch. 
 
I regret I have not been able to keep up with many logs I had been following - This is a period that life demands too much from me!
 
My deepest thanks for your company and support in this journey
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
The boat is finished! 
 
After a lot of head scratching I ended up with a solution for the davit sockets that looks reasonable. The davit it self was also quite challenging to make but I think it came out fine.

Last thing to do was to install the thole pins and the cleats.
I still need to take some proper photos, make some type of cradle and order a display case. I think it is also appropriate to order the print from the National Maritime Museum or place some compact version of these plans within the case - we ll see.









This has been a very enjoyable build and I certainly learned a lot. In future I will post pictures in the gallery.
 
In the mean time however, there is another hull that has been gathering dust waiting patiently to come back into the shipyard. I do hope you will join for the Chapelle's fishing launch. 
 
I regret I have not been able to keep up with many logs I had been following - This is a period that life demands too much from me!
 
My deepest thanks for your company and support in this journey
 
Vaddoc