Dziadeczek

Awesome!!!   Thanks so much for everything!
Thomas

How do you subsequently carve those reliefs in styrene? I am curious about the process, so, could you please, attach a couple of pics of your tools and the process showing it? Thanks!
Thomas

How do you subsequently carve those reliefs in styrene? I am curious about the process, so, could you please, attach a couple of pics of your tools and the process showing it? Thanks!
Thomas

How do you subsequently carve those reliefs in styrene? I am curious about the process, so, could you please, attach a couple of pics of your tools and the process showing it? Thanks!
Thomas

I’ve completed and am in the process of painting the stern archway brackets.  The channel standards are coming along, slowly, after a little excise and replacement.
 
I have continued to tweak and play around with my new headrail design.  The bottom rail width still requires a little tweaking, but the symmetry and taper are already an improvement over the stock rails.  Here  are the carved elements that I can definitely recycle:

When I re-incorporate stock carvings, I like to undercut the carvings with the tip of a #11 blade, in order to give a better sense of relief; the idea is similar to the process of metal chasing brass castings, for example.  The carvings end up looking crisper, overall, and it is an easy thing to achieve with backward scrapes of the blade point, heal first.
 
The pilasters have been re-spaced.  I wanted them to neatly correspond with either the fleurs of the Xs of the trailboard, but the abbreviated design of the trailboard made that an impossibility.
 


It just occurred to me, as a matter of fact, that I will have to re-check my tentative pilaster layout to ensure that it does not intersect with the run of the gammoning.  On the stock kit, this consideration is moot because there are no ‘thwartship supporting timbers that the gammoning must pass between.  Here, though, those supports will align with the pilasters.
 
I have decided that I will design the aft medallion to closely follow the Berain drawing.  The stock medallion is nice, but it interferes with the horse and pixie sculptures in ways that are un-tennable.
 
As always, thank you for your interest and for looking in.

Yes, definitely!
I always stretch my ropes just after they are twisted and removed from the ropewalk. Grab both ends with your hands and give the rope a stretch, until it is no longer 'springy'. Cotton ropes (especially longer ones on larger models) will in time stretch a bit, even after your pre stretching, due to changing weather and humidity in the air. For running rigging, it perhaps would be a desirable effect - looser, hanging ropes looking more natural, but for standing rigging (like shrouds or stays) not so much. So, you'll have to mount those rather tightly on the model, (but not too tight otherwise you might break the topmasts, or bend them excessively. )

Yes, definitely!
I always stretch my ropes just after they are twisted and removed from the ropewalk. Grab both ends with your hands and give the rope a stretch, until it is no longer 'springy'. Cotton ropes (especially longer ones on larger models) will in time stretch a bit, even after your pre stretching, due to changing weather and humidity in the air. For running rigging, it perhaps would be a desirable effect - looser, hanging ropes looking more natural, but for standing rigging (like shrouds or stays) not so much. So, you'll have to mount those rather tightly on the model, (but not too tight otherwise you might break the topmasts, or bend them excessively. )

Yes, definitely!
I always stretch my ropes just after they are twisted and removed from the ropewalk. Grab both ends with your hands and give the rope a stretch, until it is no longer 'springy'. Cotton ropes (especially longer ones on larger models) will in time stretch a bit, even after your pre stretching, due to changing weather and humidity in the air. For running rigging, it perhaps would be a desirable effect - looser, hanging ropes looking more natural, but for standing rigging (like shrouds or stays) not so much. So, you'll have to mount those rather tightly on the model, (but not too tight otherwise you might break the topmasts, or bend them excessively. )

Yes, definitely!
I always stretch my ropes just after they are twisted and removed from the ropewalk. Grab both ends with your hands and give the rope a stretch, until it is no longer 'springy'. Cotton ropes (especially longer ones on larger models) will in time stretch a bit, even after your pre stretching, due to changing weather and humidity in the air. For running rigging, it perhaps would be a desirable effect - looser, hanging ropes looking more natural, but for standing rigging (like shrouds or stays) not so much. So, you'll have to mount those rather tightly on the model, (but not too tight otherwise you might break the topmasts, or bend them excessively. )

If you make a rope from right hand twisted threads, your rope will be a left hand twisted type. If that's what you want, it is OK. But, as you'll notice, majority of ropes on a ship, are right hand type ropes, so you'll need left hand twisted threads in order to obtain right hand type rope from them.
Always, the opposite - left hand type threads give right hand type rope, and vice versa.
In my case, I had some right hand factory twisted threads (see pics), so I had to 'untwist' them on my ropewalk to obtain left hand twist on them, and then further continue left hand twist on them in order to finally obtain right hand twist rope.

If you make a rope from right hand twisted threads, your rope will be a left hand twisted type. If that's what you want, it is OK. But, as you'll notice, majority of ropes on a ship, are right hand type ropes, so you'll need left hand twisted threads in order to obtain right hand type rope from them.
Always, the opposite - left hand type threads give right hand type rope, and vice versa.
In my case, I had some right hand factory twisted threads (see pics), so I had to 'untwist' them on my ropewalk to obtain left hand twist on them, and then further continue left hand twist on them in order to finally obtain right hand twist rope.

A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.

A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.

A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.

A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.

A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.

A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.

A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.

This painting reminds me of another one - a large mural in the Air Museum in Palm Springs, California... Different ships, different planes though, but...
Thanks!   🙂

Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
 

Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
 

Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
 

Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
 

Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
 

To be continued。。。