Dziadeczek

I once made a handful of such mini C clamps from a length of aluminium U channel, slicing it on my Preac saw into narrow sections, drilling holes and thread tapping them to match my screws. Mine have 1/2 inch throat size, but perhaps you could also find your size in a hardware store.
These are not heavy duty, plenty of power to hold planks, though.

Also you can plank your hull with full length planks and afterwards score each plank across with a sharp exacto blade to imitate the joints between individual planks. I think this way might be a bit easier rather than trying to shape each shorter plank individually and identically to the rest of the short ones.

This is how it is shown on the newly (then) constructed replica of the San Salvador galleon in San Diego.
Right or wrong, I don't know?

 
And here is the USS Constitution in Charlestown

Poor piano...

I have done some search on the silk span for sails. On this forum and elsewhere. Also bought a brochure by D. Antscherl. I am thinking about using this material for my sails.
What grade (thickness) should I use? Light, medium or heavy?
The scale of my model is 1:48.

I have done some search on the silk span for sails. On this forum and elsewhere. Also bought a brochure by D. Antscherl. I am thinking about using this material for my sails.
What grade (thickness) should I use? Light, medium or heavy?
The scale of my model is 1:48.

Thank you all for your input. I decided to follow your advice and get a PM40 vise for my table. I'll let you know, if it fits.
Thanks again,   😀
Thomas

Thank you all for your input. I decided to follow your advice and get a PM40 vise for my table. I'll let you know, if it fits.
Thanks again,   😀
Thomas

Thank you all for your input. I decided to follow your advice and get a PM40 vise for my table. I'll let you know, if it fits.
Thanks again,   😀
Thomas

Hi,
Sometime ago I bought their compound X/Y table KT70 and now I am pondering whether I can mount on it their Proxxon machine vise MS4, and avoid these ungainly clamp jaws ?
I am unable to determine this based on my search, if the two are even compatible? Neither the net, nor the original instructions clearly state this.
 
Did anyone managed to do it?  How?
Thanks in advance!
Thomas

Hi,
Sometime ago I bought their compound X/Y table KT70 and now I am pondering whether I can mount on it their Proxxon machine vise MS4, and avoid these ungainly clamp jaws ?
I am unable to determine this based on my search, if the two are even compatible? Neither the net, nor the original instructions clearly state this.
 
Did anyone managed to do it?  How?
Thanks in advance!
Thomas

Hi,
Sometime ago I bought their compound X/Y table KT70 and now I am pondering whether I can mount on it their Proxxon machine vise MS4, and avoid these ungainly clamp jaws ?
I am unable to determine this based on my search, if the two are even compatible? Neither the net, nor the original instructions clearly state this.
 
Did anyone managed to do it?  How?
Thanks in advance!
Thomas

Continuation: Garnet tackle - Palan d'etai
In the meantime I have finished all the components for the garnet tackles.
The pendants were hung up on a specially made mast collar with a thimble. I made these hooks with thimbles using my own method. For this purpose, an 18 mm long brass rod with a diameter of 1.2 mm was turned off with a needle file on the Proxxon fine grinder so that the thickened areas were created at the corresponding points on the hooks. I made the thimbles in the tried and tested manner from brass tubes.

 
The next picture shows the finished hooks with thimbles, not yet blackened.

 
The other two pictures show all components of the 3 garnet tackles:
- 6 double blocks, 3 of which have swivel hooks for the tackles
- 4 single blocks for the guides, 2 of them with hooks
- 2 guide elements
- 2 mast collars (one tackle was lashed directly to the stay with an eye)
- ropes ø 0.46 mm and ø 0.67 mm (original ø 32 mm or ø 22 mm)
- 3 pendants ø 0.90 mm (original ø 43 mm)

 

 
Sequel follows …

Anchor is just as good as DMC, if not better.

Years ago I built my French 74 gun ship upside down, mounted in H. Hahn's building base, following his method (sort of). I remember, I had to add (draw) the remaining frames, since J. Boudriot only has shown in his books the so called, station frames. The hull turned out OK, not perfect though, but - for the first scratch built, Admiralty type model, - acceptable.
Right now I am starting to install the running rigging on it.
Thomas

I continue to build a model of the cruiser.
    Assembling the aft bridge.
 

I wouldn't worry too much about the filling pieces now. Make all hawse frames first and make sure they all fit and that their external surfaces are smooth (inner surfaces will later be smoothed). And only then try to make those fillers, carefully  sanding down their thicknesses to fit to the available spaces in between the hawse frames.
I too had a hard time making them for my "Frenchie" (of course, later on I bought the addendum brochure from Ancre with all profiles of the missing frames, including the hawse timbers, but it was already after I managed to shape them all by myself from the waterlines). Tough luck...

Ta-daa!! Finished and installed. I left out a few parts, none of which will be obvious. I omitted the push rods on the rear bank of cylinders, because they are on the back side of the engine, which won't be visible at all once the cowling is on. Altogether, the engine has 154 parts.
 

THANKS.  😀   Yes, I did it.  (The pic I attached is now, sort of, old...)
The more current state of affairs is here (entry # 60) + recently I attached all 5 anchors as well.
 

Years ago I built my French 74 gun ship upside down, mounted in H. Hahn's building base, following his method (sort of). I remember, I had to add (draw) the remaining frames, since J. Boudriot only has shown in his books the so called, station frames. The hull turned out OK, not perfect though, but - for the first scratch built, Admiralty type model, - acceptable.
Right now I am starting to install the running rigging on it.
Thomas

I know, I bought that brochure from Ancre. But, it was only AFTER I drew the remaining frames by myself, so, for me it was like a proverbial  "mustard after dinner".
You are right, my model is in 1:48 scale. I intend to build it fully masted and rigged, with sails, if my endurance will permit.
Whether it is built strictly in Admiralty style or not, is of less importance to me. I used this name remembering all those models with unplanked lower hulls and partially planked decks. OK, perhaps the better name is - a Navy Board ship model! It is some kind of hybrid, I think.
What I wanted to show here  is the way I built it - in the H. Hahn's method, upside down, mounted in a flat base board, with those extensions of frames (later on to be cut off). Yes, that way is a lot more wasteful of wood than shaping individual futtocks and faying them together and assembling the hull right-side up. But, at that time I was less experienced and fell that the Hahn's method was better suited for me. I also used American walnut for frames (which I wouldn't do today). Some fruitwood would be better...
Overall, my model represents largely my own artistic license and not necessarily some rigid convention, Admiralty or Navy Board, or such... The principal reason for my build was to learn all those intricacies of historic ship building practices - in this case French ones. Just reading Boudriot's books was very educational, but later on building a model after them, was an entirely different quality...     😄
 
Best regards,
 
Thomas

I know, I bought that brochure from Ancre. But, it was only AFTER I drew the remaining frames by myself, so, for me it was like a proverbial  "mustard after dinner".
You are right, my model is in 1:48 scale. I intend to build it fully masted and rigged, with sails, if my endurance will permit.
Whether it is built strictly in Admiralty style or not, is of less importance to me. I used this name remembering all those models with unplanked lower hulls and partially planked decks. OK, perhaps the better name is - a Navy Board ship model! It is some kind of hybrid, I think.
What I wanted to show here  is the way I built it - in the H. Hahn's method, upside down, mounted in a flat base board, with those extensions of frames (later on to be cut off). Yes, that way is a lot more wasteful of wood than shaping individual futtocks and faying them together and assembling the hull right-side up. But, at that time I was less experienced and fell that the Hahn's method was better suited for me. I also used American walnut for frames (which I wouldn't do today). Some fruitwood would be better...
Overall, my model represents largely my own artistic license and not necessarily some rigid convention, Admiralty or Navy Board, or such... The principal reason for my build was to learn all those intricacies of historic ship building practices - in this case French ones. Just reading Boudriot's books was very educational, but later on building a model after them, was an entirely different quality...     😄
 
Best regards,
 
Thomas

I know, I bought that brochure from Ancre. But, it was only AFTER I drew the remaining frames by myself, so, for me it was like a proverbial  "mustard after dinner".
You are right, my model is in 1:48 scale. I intend to build it fully masted and rigged, with sails, if my endurance will permit.
Whether it is built strictly in Admiralty style or not, is of less importance to me. I used this name remembering all those models with unplanked lower hulls and partially planked decks. OK, perhaps the better name is - a Navy Board ship model! It is some kind of hybrid, I think.
What I wanted to show here  is the way I built it - in the H. Hahn's method, upside down, mounted in a flat base board, with those extensions of frames (later on to be cut off). Yes, that way is a lot more wasteful of wood than shaping individual futtocks and faying them together and assembling the hull right-side up. But, at that time I was less experienced and fell that the Hahn's method was better suited for me. I also used American walnut for frames (which I wouldn't do today). Some fruitwood would be better...
Overall, my model represents largely my own artistic license and not necessarily some rigid convention, Admiralty or Navy Board, or such... The principal reason for my build was to learn all those intricacies of historic ship building practices - in this case French ones. Just reading Boudriot's books was very educational, but later on building a model after them, was an entirely different quality...     😄
 
Best regards,
 
Thomas

Years ago I built my French 74 gun ship upside down, mounted in H. Hahn's building base, following his method (sort of). I remember, I had to add (draw) the remaining frames, since J. Boudriot only has shown in his books the so called, station frames. The hull turned out OK, not perfect though, but - for the first scratch built, Admiralty type model, - acceptable.
Right now I am starting to install the running rigging on it.
Thomas

Years ago I built my French 74 gun ship upside down, mounted in H. Hahn's building base, following his method (sort of). I remember, I had to add (draw) the remaining frames, since J. Boudriot only has shown in his books the so called, station frames. The hull turned out OK, not perfect though, but - for the first scratch built, Admiralty type model, - acceptable.
Right now I am starting to install the running rigging on it.
Thomas