Dziadeczek

I once learnt how to plank from Jim Roberts' brochure "Planking the Built-up Ship Model".

If you are asking about traditional rigging tools, it is easy to make your own, using a couple of large needles and fixing them into wooden dowels, or even a couple of handles from old brushes. See the attachment.
I am just in the middle of rigging of my French 74 gun ship model (1:48), [geez, what a pain!   😬], and constantly using my three DIY rigging tools - I find them indispensable!

If you are asking about traditional rigging tools, it is easy to make your own, using a couple of large needles and fixing them into wooden dowels, or even a couple of handles from old brushes. See the attachment.
I am just in the middle of rigging of my French 74 gun ship model (1:48), [geez, what a pain!   😬], and constantly using my three DIY rigging tools - I find them indispensable!

If you are asking about traditional rigging tools, it is easy to make your own, using a couple of large needles and fixing them into wooden dowels, or even a couple of handles from old brushes. See the attachment.
I am just in the middle of rigging of my French 74 gun ship model (1:48), [geez, what a pain!   😬], and constantly using my three DIY rigging tools - I find them indispensable!

This was my very first attempt at focus stacking, using my old Nikon d200, standard kit zoom lens 18-70, a tripod, no rails. Merging on Photoshop.
I am quite satisfied with the result.  What do you think, guys?
Thomas

Construction completed. Now I need to do a photo shoot of the ship.

The construction came to an end after approx. 4600 hours. All that remains is to post a few last photos and thank all the followers for watching and commenting on the progress of the model construction. Thank you.

Awesome!!!
What scale is the lion in? (Judging by the size of your hand holding it, I am guessing it might be in 1:24 or even 1:12...) Wow!  👍

Final photos of the British predator.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
to be continued
 
 

I made outdoor ladders.

I have the Vanda Lay thickness sander for more than 20 years now. It still works like when it was new, I only from time-to-time exchange sandpaper. Mine is attached to a handheld drill, instead of a separate motor.

I have the Vanda Lay thickness sander for more than 20 years now. It still works like when it was new, I only from time-to-time exchange sandpaper. Mine is attached to a handheld drill, instead of a separate motor.

I have the Vanda Lay thickness sander for more than 20 years now. It still works like when it was new, I only from time-to-time exchange sandpaper. Mine is attached to a handheld drill, instead of a separate motor.

I have the Vanda Lay thickness sander for more than 20 years now. It still works like when it was new, I only from time-to-time exchange sandpaper. Mine is attached to a handheld drill, instead of a separate motor.

I don't know if you guys are aware that there is a free and very simple focus stacking program online.   Focus stacking online - free online focus stacking software   Only two steps required.
 

I don't know if you guys are aware that there is a free and very simple focus stacking program online.   Focus stacking online - free online focus stacking software   Only two steps required.
 

I don't know if you guys are aware that there is a free and very simple focus stacking program online.   Focus stacking online - free online focus stacking software   Only two steps required.
 

Equipment of the mizzen yard - Slings and Quarterblock / Suspentes et poulie d'ecoute
The mizzen yard of the La Créole had no jackstay and only a quarter block for deflecting the sheets in the middle of the yard. This block was therefore designed as a double block, as can be seen in the following detailed photo of the Paris model.
 

Source: La Créole monograph by J. Boudriot, page 168
 
Based on these double blocks with a length of 5.6 mm in model size, I would like to explain my method of block production in more detail.
I scale the drawing of a double block from the Atlas du génie maritime to the required size and glue the printout to a strip of pear wood with the appropriate dimensions. Since I use separate discs for this block size, the disc gates are milled in the next step. In this case with a width of 0.6 mm.
After shaping with an emery file, the grooves for the strops are made with a round file. The fine sanding is done with a fine steel wool and the final finish is done with a ball matting.

 
As can be seen in the next picture, I have meanwhile attached the fully served slings and in between the double block for the mizzen topsail sheets using rose lashings.


      
The next step will be the production of the truss pendants.
Sequel follows …

I've had two goes at the Winchelsea. I realised not long into the first build that the model was far too complex for someone of my limited experience and skill level so I gave up to start again. W2 was a much better effort but there were things I was unhappy with and  I ( I suspect many of us) can get disproportionately bugged by things I look at and think: if I did that again I'd do it better. So I took a break and made Syren's lovely cutter Cheerful in boxwood from Hobbymill EU and I'm very pleased with it too.
 
I thought I might have a go at a scratch build but I think that's beyond me. Apart from any other failings I simply don't have the knowledge. What I want to build though is a fully rigged ship. My own view - lots won't share it - is that rigging really sets off a model beautifully. So I've decided to have a go at a fully rigged Winchelsea. Scratch building the masts seems reasonably achievable and within my compass. And having had two as it turns out dummy runs at Winchelsea I'm reasonably confident I can make a decent effort this time.
 
So here goes.
 
I decided to start with the masts on the footing that if I can't get those right the project will go nowhere. I'm not strung up on historical accuracy (though I would welcome observations). I'm using a combination of Shipyard Model HMS Enterprize and Anatomy of a Ship HMS Diana plans with Herbert/Antscherl books for methodology.
 
I started with the crosstrees for the main mast. Here are parts 1-4, again in boxwood from Hobbymill EU.. 


And then the tops.







I made the mizzen mast first. Here it is (with the bowsprit).

This is the mizzen top more or less complete thogh I wonder if I should file down the radating battens towards the centre a bit more yet. The top is not glued to the crosstrees and the cap is not finished.
 

And here the bowsprit. Cutting the bowsprit from square section to this stage took most of of a full day.




And here trying the bowsprit for size (although not yet cut to length) on W2. I'm also having a bit of a go - experimenting really - at the ship's boats. That is the pinnace sitting midships.
 

 
I have cut out and assembled all the frames with sockets to take the masts. This is where I am at the moment. The masts of course are not glued in nor are the tops glued to the crosstrees or topmasts glued.

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 

 

 
 

All the best everyone
Fred
 
 
 

Richard, you have to click on the link I gave in the previous post - where it says "At a Glance..." and scroll down there to post # 89. I don't have my own build here.

I am not sure about your article, but I am building all three boats for my French 74 gun ship 1:48 (right now finishing the third one - a cutter), pretty closely following the advice in a chapter from the book on modeling by B. Frolich. They are all built on wooden plugs (carved from a soft basswood piece according to the profiles given and triple painted with polyurethane to make them smooth and shiny) and then mounting on them all individual ribs, the keel, sternpost and stem, and planking with individual planks. Meticulous work. I am making mine from cherry.
Here is my second boat finished - a barge.   Post # 89.
 
But, you have to have a small precise table saw to be able to precisely cut all pieces. I have an old PREAC.