Aussie048

1+ on these. "Electrical test clips"I bought a small collection and they work great!
Very light so don't cause the line to sag. Hold very strongly. With the pointy tips great for reaching into complex or hard to reach confined spaces since the actuator is remote.
Model shops should sell these! Absolutely the perfect tool for this use.
Just what I wanted and needed. Great to have this forum to get thoughtful answers to questions like this.

congrats Danny,
 
this is a beautiful performed model section, love to the details in every part of it, a delight to look at...
 
Nils

Congratulations and now time to break out that bottle of aged scotch and give her a toast.  Beautiful workmanship.
David B

Beautiful.

Dan,
 
as I've expected another wonderful masterpiece. I like your x-section very much and think it will be a nice add on for my own project.
 
Thanks for sharing

Impressive isn't quite the right word, Danny.  What Pat said works for me also.      

I thought you needed a few more beers to celebrate this lovely model.
 
cheers
 
Pat

.... continued.
 
The Railing for the gangway and it's Newell Post and Bracing :
 

 

 
Finally, the port Channel, Deadeyes and Chains. All pieces were constructed in similar fashion to the full model :
 

 
 
Pics of the finished model will be added shortly.
 
  Danny

Thanks for all the comments and Likes .
 
The last few pieces of work. Thanks again to Grant for the rigging line I needed to finish off the guns - they turned out pretty well I think :

 

 

 
The Gangways and Ladder. Tricky getting the mortices for the angles on the stiles cut correctly, as there is a 5 degree difference between the two sides. I had to have two goes at it, as I cut them back-to-front the 1st time :
 

 

 

 

 

 
Continued in next post .....

Bruce
Here are the pics of the clamps I was talking about
The little cloths pins I found at Walmart, the little red clamp are hem holding clamps from Joanns
Like I said you could use just about any springs, you would just have to open the springs with neddle nose.
You can see my wife's hand opening up the spring.
Joe

Bill,
 
I tried your excellent idea straight away,,, it looks much better than with full diam. wire, unfortunately I do`nt have macro focus but I think it shows on the encl. pic...      Thanks again    
 
The next improvement will be to choose thinner wire for those loop-ends, plus flattening...
 
Nils
 

 
stanchion wrap loop flattend......

Thanks for your kind words! I moved onto the capstan and started the anchors to work back and forth. I again checked the photos of the real ship for reference since the plans and instructions are a little sketchy. The laser cut parts center holes for the dowel to pass through were slightly off center; so the parts were trued up on the lathe once glued together. I added brass ring and solid polished top as well.
 
Here are a few pictures of what I did.
 

 

 
It is very difficult to cut a thin ring off a tube with out tearing it up when the cut through happens; so I just cut a groove to use as a guide for the saw blade.

 

 

 
This also shows an in progress anchor with metal straps added; the rest still need to be done. Note that the centering hole was not drilled completely through the brass top; the top wood pin was cut down to be used as an indexing pin into the partially drilled hole in the underside of the brass disc top.

 
Back to the rest of the structures to be completed.
 

Very nice Ken!
David

'Tis, ain't it !!
 

Hi, are the clips I use as shown here what you are after.  These come in various sizes and available at electronics stores and the like (as Geoff/Aussie posted).  I find them very handy as they are easy to use and very light but grip strongly.  Just take care if you have pre-wetted the line with diluted glue as it may develop a kink.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Yes, Gaetan.  I have the English version... Beudroit?  I've been pouring over that one a lot the last few days.    Either there is something undocumented that only occured during certain rebuilds or..  the NMM drawing is just flat wrong even though it was made as "as captured".  
 
Hmm... yes.. similar but different.  The Licorne drawing shows that it doesn't go all the way back to the transom.  
 
Also, here's the drawing I found of La Bellone.... different gallery entirely.
 

 
 
 

Hello All,
It's been a while since I last posted or even worked on my model. There are just too many outdoor demands on my time and it never feels right holed up in my basement when the weather is absolutely glorious. Nevertheless I have a little progress to report. I have almost finished the chainplates. The biggest problem I had with them was getting their length correct, but I developed a little system that worked well enough. Working one channel at a time, I pinned them in place temporarily and let them protrude up through the holes in the channel. (This of course brings me to my frequent complaint about all those little brass nails they include in the kit for no reason that's apparent to me. On this build I actually need little nails to attach the chainplates, but the ones included in the kit are about three times too big to fit the holes in the chainplates. I had to buy new ones. They're about the size of a #75 drill. Why do they do these things?) Working one chainplate at a time, I snipped it off flush with the top of the channel and then removed it. I then snipped about 1/16" more off of it and then soldered on the deadeye. I slipped them back into position, let them hang loose and painted them below the channel before attaching them permanently. Once all are in place, I'm painting the channel and deadeyes and touching up black and white paint where necessary.
 
I'm also planning ahead for the netting along the railing. I had bought some tulle at a fabric store some time ago, but I'm beginning to think the little diamond openings are too big for the scale. I don't know whether tulle comes in different "gauges" or not. (At any rate, gauge is certainly not a word to use at a fabric store; I got a very odd look.) Today I took a stroll through a dollar store to see if I could find anything else that might work. I did find two different cheap black mesh zippered bags which I can cut up. One also seems a bit too big, but the other looks like it might be ok. I'm going to experiment with all three.
 
That's all until next time. We're told to expect beautiful weather right through the weekend and then plenty of rain on Monday, so maybe I'll be able to have indoor recess all day!
David

Get yourself a cheap fly tying vice - used to make flies for fishing. There are plenty of cheap ones available on eBay. I use mine extensively when rigging.
 
Steve

Thanks Jud. I hope there will not be need for herbicide. Quite enough we eat every day in food, even we do not want, aren't we?
 
Thx Piet. I faced with resolution issue ... 15 sec video clip recorded in HD resolution has more than 200MB. Tonight I made two more clips with details, but just had no patience to wait for them to upload to YT, even watching second time how Daeneris burned Mastet's ships ....
 
So, only photos of tonight progres
 

 

Update
 
only a small update today......
 
priming, painting doors and cabin walls, making stanchions for handrails....
This relatively small aft cabin is a test for making the extensive promenade deck cabins in the same way
 
Nils
 

 
the holes for tht handrails are brought in already
 
 

 
raw doors with window frames and knob handles, need 5, one is spare as sample for later on...
 
 

 
the pins, surplus material from the knobs will be clipped off flush with the rear doorside
 
 

 
first paint coat, needs some touch up
 
 

 
stanchion holders for the handrails, the loops will be closed when the rail is in position
 
 

 
test sample piece for handrail making
 
 

It has been a while for an update but I have been working albeit slowly.
 
I finished the channels and painted them black, then added pins to them to reinforce them on the hull. Here they are temporarily in place. I will be adding the lower deadeyes to these before permanently gluing them to the hull.
 

 

 
They are pretty hard to see in those photos because of the black on black.
 
I also finished the two fixed blocks I am adding to the waist rail. I made these from a single block of wood in the mill, using varying depths to simulate the sheave.
 

 

 
Now I am stropping the lower deadeyes to get these all ready for the channels. Updates to come once I have the process nailed down.
 
 

So the largest challenge that Mamoli kits seemed to have is over the really bad English translations. I am assuming you will also be rewriting all the instructions. That is going to be quite a challenge!
 
Congratulations on picking up the mantle. It is great that the Mamoli name will continue. Where will you be manufacturing the kits?

Second instalment.
 
The rigging is slackened to allow the jeers to be lowered about half way down the mast, I seize the slings around the yard.  I then prepare the parrel off the yard and fit it after the yard has been slung and raised a little closer to the tops.  After tightening it I haul the completed yard.
 
       
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Finished up building the three fife rails. One word of advice for those who follow cut in the front brace to the forward posts as noted for strength due to the weakness of the laser cut arm parts with holes having a tendency to break very easily while handling. They also will be able to hold the posts in place to locate holes in the deck for the locating pins. These braces will have the center portions cut away once the fife rails are finally glued in place. As for now all the spar deck structures will be fabricated and set in place for now including the deck itself. I also cut sheaves on my Sherline lathe to be cut into the posts with a 1/32" axle for turning if necessary. Here are a sequence of pictures.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I then started at the bow with the structures and am working towards the stern, which will be a slow going process since most will be scratch built like these.
 

 

 
Now back to building.
 
 

Those sea steps look very nice. Would you mind telling us how you made them? Are there three pieces of stacked wood or did you cut a solid piece somehow?
 
Speaking of the step's three layers, I was wondering why you made three when the plans (as shown in your pictures) appears to show two. I went back to my library of images and found this nice shot of the steps which clearly shows three. Nice job on your research.
 
If you will notice, all of the steps in my photo are painted white, not just those in the stripe as shown in the 1931 photo. As we all know the paint scheme (among other details) has changed over the years. Which leads me to my last question: what era is your model going to depict?
 
Jon