justsayrow

As requested....here's some pics of the completed Connie. I have to laugh...all the work we put into the deck and guns, etc....and they wind up barely visible. Just like the hull planks....nobody (but me) looks down there.

Serves you right for coming ashore, Andy!  
 
John

Working on the port lid hinges.
 
Same material for the straps.  The hinge part is made using a micro brass tube that is .7 mm O.D. and .5 mm I.D.  To cut these you must take care.  You just cant use a nippers because it will crush the tubing.
So as shown below,  you insert a piece of 28 gauge wire in the tube.  Then take a sharp #11 blade and just roll it over the tube and it cuts a nice crisp piece perfectly.  Be sure to bend the wire on the end and it will actually catch these little suckers.  They are cut as long as the hinge straps are wide.  Thats microscopic.
 

 
Then you use CA to glue these tube sections onto the ends of the laser cut laserboard hinge straps.  Its easiest to do this with the straps hanging over the edge of a block of wood.   You can hold the strap with your finger while just the end hangs over the block.
 

 
Dont be shy with the CA.  Use a light drop on the end to secure it.  Then add two more drops as successive coats after each dries.
 
Turn it upside down with just the tube hanging over the block and you can sand the hinge strap into the tube so it wont be seen after painting.  Holding the strap under your finger prevents the strap from bending.  Its not as strong as brass.  Once its glued to the port lid it wont matter.  It will be plenty strong as only the tiniest portion will stick out above the top edge of the port lid.  To small to bend.
 
To paint them.  place them on the wire so you can paint without having to hold them.
 

 
Then ....small "L" brackets are made from 28 gauge wire which will create the hinge pin and secure the lid into the hull.   Thats it!!!
 

 
These will be used for the stern port lids.
 

 
 
 
Chuck
 
 

Today, I finished planking the Hull, did some light fairing and built the Cradle. Next will be to complete fairing the Hull. Here are the results

Longridge simplified his deck treenailing, I believe. In reality, wood plugs were used over nails and the grain matched that of the deck, so were virtually invisible. At 1:100 scale, I'd leave them off.

And so it continues.  I was working from home today, as work is sort of a mess right now, but the nice thing about working from home is that I can pretty much keep my own schedule, and I can go do a bit on the boat, and then go work while I'm waiting for something to dry for the next step.  Working like that is sort of a pain, but it does allow me to make slow progress even when I don't have time to sit down and plank the poop-deck of the AVS.
 
After cleaning up the ribs a bit, the next items on the agenda are the in-wale and gun-wale.  These are made with cherry strips in the kit.  The in-wale is pretty straight forward, trim the strip to length and glue it along the top of the ribs between the two end decks.  No particular issues other than accidentally cutting one a bit too short and having to insert a shim.  Oops.  Only 1 spare strip of cherry, so I didn't use it since the gun-wales would be the real challenge (this turned out to be the right decision).
 
Here the in-wales are both placed and glued up.  I went back to the white PVA glue for this.

 
The next step was the gun-wales, which turned out to be what is likely the most challenging part of this kit for a new modeler, as it certainly was for me.  The cherry strips are 1/8" x 1/16", and they need to be tapered for the final 3-1/2" of the ends of the gun-wale to a 1/32" square.  So they need to taper in both dimensions, to an extremely fine point, and then they have to be bent to fit the curve of the deck!  Cherry isn't nearly as flexible as basswood.
 
The instructions say to soak the planks in a 50/50 ammonia/water mix and then super glue one end, follow the curve of the hull, and then at some nebulous point, trim the other end to length and taper it.  Umm.. yea, sure, that will work great!  Or maybe not.
 
I chose to taper one end of the plank, then use the "Chuck" bending system to get it shaped to follow one end of the hull.  Chuck's system is pretty simple, using 3 clamps and a board, you apply heat to the bent plank (I use a heat gun, Chuck demonstrated with a hair dryer), and then let it cool.  When you un-clamp it, there is very little spring-back.

 
After getting one end shaped, I clamped it in place, all the way along the edge of the hull, and then marked where to cut the other end off, tapered the other end, and then bent it to shape.  After I was happy with the curve at both ends, I glued the plank in place and clamped it.

 
While sanding the taper on one end, I managed to snap one of the planks in two about 1/3 of the way down.  So much for a spare plank!
 
Luckily I managed to get two of them done without breaking another one, and got them in place.  Once they are glued in place, I sanded down the top of the wales to be even with the hull from end to end.  And that's where it is now.

 
The next items in the kit are the thwarts, and the seats.  After that comes the paddles and it's finished.  I'm going to play some finishing games though, and I think I'll do that prior to placing anything else into the canoe, so it will probably be a bit before there is another update, as the finish will take a week or more to complete due to drying between layers.
 
Hopefully I'll have the 'finish reveal' by next weekend.
 
In the meantime, I'll get to planking the poop-deck of the AVS tomorrow I think.  Just need to figure out a good way to make a jig to cut 26 identical tapered planks for that.
 
Cheers!

Hello everyone. I recently purchased the Chesapeake Bay Crabbing Skiff kit from Midwest Products as a birthday present for myself. I have zero experience building wooden ship models and no real woodworking experience. So all of this is 100% new to me. After looking around at some other kits and reading recommendations, I decided on this skiff because I didn't want to get too far over my head and thought this build could give me skills necessary to complete more complex stuff.
 
Looking around, I haven't seen any real detailed build logs for these easier kits (maybe I am just bad at searching) and hoped that maybe by starting one, I could help others who are new to this hobby. With that said, I hope to keep myself accountable by posting updates here as well. This won't be a fast build because everything is so new and I still need to pick up some tools I don't have. 
 
With the introduction out of the way, let's get started on the first update:
 
 
 
 
The model kit arrived today. I pulled the components out and laid them out to have a look. This is the first time I've seen a wooden ship model kit first hand and I was surprised at how delicate some of the pieces look. It looks like I am going to have to cut the sail out myself which is a little worrisome but I am sure I can cross that bridge when the time comes.
 

 
Here is the bottom plank laid out and sanded with 400 grit sandpaper. The instructions tell me to use a building board to attach one of the die cut sheets for use as a jig. I have no spare wood lying around to use so I will need to make a trip to the store. I also need to pick up a few tools like a razor saw and 1/32" and 1/16" drill bits. I am pretty sure I can hold out on picking up beeswax for a couple more days until I get closer to messing around with the sail.
 

 
That's it for today. I will go to the hardware store in the morning and try to pick up the missing stuff. Hopefully you will see another update in the next day or two.
 
 
 

Anton, I've made (non working) bottle screws by using a length of brass tube for the body and brass wire for the screws.  Just cut the tube to length, form an eye in one end of the wire, pass it through the tube and then form and eye on the other end at the appropriate length.  A spot of solder on the eyes and in the tube will keep everything in place.  A bit tedious with the number you need, perhaps, but you'll be able to say that you made it!
 
John

Amidships Bulwarks
 
One of the distinguishing features of the Gearings was there prominent bulwarks with 6 varied openings of circles, ovals and arches. Although during the FRAM modernizations the superstructures were completely removed the bulwarks were rebuilt the same as before - one of the few points of continuity from their pre-modernization appearance.

The kit provides the bulwarks as a single piece of laser cut sheet plastic with a thin section were a bend occurs. One of mine broke at that point but it was just as well, with so many points of contact it would have been difficult to fit it without breaking it down into pieces. It also worked out OK because the door cutout was too big for the PE frame I wanted to use so I made new pieces with slightly smaller door openings.

The first modification, although the kit instructions don’t mention it, the kit plans clearly show that the bottom of the bulwarks do not rest flush on the deck but are supported by the bottom of the interior stiffeners. I cut off 1/16 inch from the bottom, added stiffeners to the inside face and angle braces for the aft section (the rest would not be visible). The other modification was to line each opening with support bracing.

After painting and fitting the bulwarks I printed out the emblems for DESRON TWELVE which BASILONE was assigned to in 1966 in Newport. I got the design for the emblems from a former BASILONE sailor. This small step took an extra trip to the hobby shop since I didn’t think about the fact that printers don’t print white, so back I went to get white decal paper.

Next step will be to add the chocks and bollards to the main deck.

Hyho, small dafi was aloud to tinker some more bits ...
 
... first the freshly pressed ones ...
 

 

 
... by the way that is the way they looked in their former lifes :-)
 

 
And as dafi likes to do messes ...
 

 
... but there is nothing better ...
 

 
... than a fresh caulked deck!
 
XXXDAn

*blow*...
 
... waving the dust away ...
 
... oh really, there is a building report appearing :-0
 
Lots of work means loads of pennies for the building :-)
 
The only flaw is that there is little time for the builds, the only time for forums is when hanging in a boring telefone call or while the computer is rendering or saving. But it looks like times are coming back *joy*
 
And as everybody sayz to start with something small ...
 

 
Cheers, Daniel

Main Deck Bulkhead details
 
Have been slowly adding small details to the bulkheads on the main deck level. I covered the watertight doors in a previous post.
 
Kit-provided additions since then include vegetable lockers. ladders, large line reel, and grab rails.
 
Aftermarket PE additions include the porthole rims, the hand wheels on the deck (must have been real shin breakers at night), and small line reel.
 
Scratch additions include deck drains, gooseneck vents for fuel tanks, water diverters, vent outlets, fog gong and locker on aft bulkhead, life rings, and oxygen bottles. Still to go are the remote operated valve hand wheels and firefighting equipment.
 
The ugly vertical surface with the exposed I-beam ends will be covered up with a bulwark shortly.

So I've actually accomplished some more things on the AVS over the last few days, in the form of completing most of the quarter-deck.  Today I completed the quarter-deck, and then began drilling holes.  Ended up with 510 holes (I think), and only after it was completed and I was editing the photo's to upload did I notice that I missed a pair of holes on a butt joint.  Oops.  I also managed to knock one out on the quarter deck, so after the poly has dried I'll have to add the 2 missing ones and repair the one that came out.
 
I got going on things and didn't take any in-progress photo's of the quarter deck, or the tree-nailing except for the first shot.
 

I think I've read every build log on this site, will repeat possibly tomorrow, ideas swirling about.  Will probably have the box this Monday, I hope.  Will drag Admiral and the young Lieutenant to Lowes to pick up badly needed supplies for this long voyage ahead of me.  Have to find a place to make a dry dock here also, we're still moving in, albeit slowly and need to do some survey work and submit the proper paperwork for permits, etc., with the admiral and her staff <sigh>.  Caterwauling and hair pulling will commence at 0800.

Thanks Mark and egkb.
 
It all helps to show there's interest in this build.
 
More to follow.
 
Frank

Starting to work on the Conning Tower. The base and internal stiffener are .40 thou. styrene sheet for strength. The sides are .20 thou V-groove with the horizontal grooves on the interior of the tower. I have found that using the grooves as guides helps assure aligned portholes, platforms, hatches, etc.
 


 
If you look closely at the top row of portholes on the starboard side, you will notice that I cut the aft-most two portholes a bit elevated compared to those forward of them. This is deliberate and consistent with the actual ship. On the exterior of the real conning tower side, there is a prominent exterior cable conduit just under these two portholes. Behind these portholes on the real ship was a radar control compartment. Presumably, the conduit contained cables associated with the ship's radars or other electronic gear.
 

 
 

Jan wrote:
 
has nothing to do with actual "real world" planking techniques. In the real world there are no planks wide enough to allow for the amount of spiling required in his method.
 
Of course, Chucks models look absolutely great, but in my eyes more than perfect, where at least my - beginners - strife is for real world authenticity, I mean, whats the point of making everything above the waterline look absolutely real up to the smallest detail, while the other half the ship (the under water section) is a fiction?
 
 
Jan...Not fiction at all.     
 
But I know folks say that steelers and drop planks are just fine and were used historically.   That is true....but the huge number of them you see on model ships and explained as the proper way to do it in many books and instruction manuals and practicums.   Its just a crutch.    So whatever the method.....a hull that looks like this is not something I find attractive or even historically accurate.  So I prefer to go for fewer and replicate the way its done on a similar contemporary model or shown in a contemporary draft from the same era.  Its just my preference.  
 
I have no intention on picking on the fellow who planked this hull below.   But its extreme steelers gone wild and if this is the way he (or you) wants to go its OK.  But I find many people using them and only because they find an example where one or two were used historically, and  it is just a short rationalization further to go ahead and use  5 or six  or even more at the bow and as many at the stern.  I disagree entirely.  Its just an easy fix and a crutch.    I just dont think its accurate or aesthetically pleasing.  This is in terms of what we were discussing earlier.  I will say this.   To plank the hull like this fellow did would probably take longer and be more frustrating than it would to just give lining out a hull a chance.  Cutting all of those weird shapes randomly etc.
 

 
One drop plank at the bow at most...and no stealers at the stern.   That is what I will always shoot for.    I think its more accurate and looks better.  Not that you wouldnt be able to scour the web for an example or two that is contrary to my opinion.   I just think its an excuse to continue to use them willy nilly and in huge numbers rather than learn how to spile and plan a hull's planking.   Again,  just my opinion.  And its Ok.   If folks are happy with that, fine,  But I just dont buy the argument that this image above is accurate in any way...even if you could find one example that might look a bit like it.
 
I would rather not get into a lengthy debate about it either because its one of those circular debates.  Its just a matter of choosing what you are willing to live with on your project...without trying to force the idea that it must be accurate because one image exists showing something maybe a little similar so...... Then they feel better about using them and wont bother trying to figure it out beyond that.   I have had countless discussions on the matter actually.  Its more complex than this because it depends on the country of origin,  the year,  the shape of the bow and hull etc.   There is no one size fits all, what kind of ship.........  An apple bowed whaler will certainly be planked differently than a sharper cutter or frigate built 75 years earlier and from different countries.   Dutch practice vs. English practice.  There is just too much to consider for a simple answer..
 
But I am so lucky because I have this below.   Its the planking expansion...just a portion of it so I dont violate any copyright rules...and its for the Cheerful.  So I am very comfortable saying its reasonably accurate and the actual ship was closely replicated.    Its not fiction at all.  The draft shows exactly 20 strakes below the wales.   One drop plank only,  no steelers.  I have no idea how they would have done this in actual practice but there are plenty modeling techniques that can achieve this result.   That is if its something you would have fun learning how to do.
 

Greetings to all;
This is my first post to this forum, but I have been enjoying following other peoples builds for some time now.
I am currently working towards finishing up a kit bash of the Revell USS Constitution and decided to go ahead and start on the CSS Alabama for a change of pace. (you can view my log on my Connie build here)
 
I will be correcting all the ports and sweeps and hopefully the mast rake and using a new veneer deck that John from scaledecks is working on. I will also be replacing the armaments with the gun set from Cottage Industries. I haven't decided yet whether or not to replace the masts and yards w/ wood. I haven't really checked out the kit pieces to see if they are going to be sturdy enough.
 
I know there is a lot of contention about this models incorrectness. I certainly can not do anything to fix the problem w/ its length, but I will do my best to correct what I can and hopefully end up w/ a fairly accurate representation of her.
 
I am using Bowcocks "CSS Alabama anatomy of a confederate raider" as a reference, and as BlueJacket has just released their own version of her, I will be using some of their plans which are also based on Bowcock's book. Al Ross at bluejacket says that there will be a PE sheet available as well which I may obtain at some point down the line.
 
So here goes.
First step is to lay out the correct locations for the gun and bollard ports. I started out by pulling the specs from Bowcock, but once I got the profile sheet from BlueJacket, I just went ahead and used their layout.
You can see how close it matches up, so I used the plan view and measured out from the gangway and plotted the measurements on the plan. I then ran tape along the hull and marked off the correct placements.

There is a slight margin of error in that the curve of the bulwarks causes the measurements to be off by about a millimeter. Since this is so small a difference I ignored it and plotted the ports according to my measurements. SGP stands for sweep gun port and BP for bollard port. Once laid out I cut out the areas for the ports as a guide for opening them up. I will rough cut them and then use a file to fine tune.
Once I have them done, and have filled in the port openings that don't belong I will post more pics. (maybe tomorrow?)

I said no laughing!!!!!!  LOL....I cant help it,  I am from New Jersey!!!!!   

Looking good keith!!!  
 
One of the guys taped my planking session at my club meeting.  Its freaky to see myself on a video like this.  No laughing.   But It shows how I taper and cut a plank to match my plan from lining out the hull.   I wish the camera was behind me but I hope its still worth posting.
 

 
Chuck

Jack, along the lines of the blackener, you could try dipping the brass in some dilute (1:1 or 2:1) white vinegar followed by a quick rinse in clear water. It should etch the brass enough to allow the paint to stick

If you do head to Hobby Lobby, they have a standing coupon for 40% one item on their website and mobile app. $30 becomes $18.

While waiting on more glue to dry, I put a few more pieces of the windlass together.   I learned a little trick (after too many tries).  Getting the octagonal piece to stay square with the axle while gluing on the faces is awkward.  By holding the octagonal piece on the axle against the already assembled gear section on the axle, there is a  solid,  square base for gluing.  Just don't let the two sections get glued together just yet.   Hard to explain, but it worked well on the section D I just assembled.  I love this little kit.  Chuck is a genius.
Maury
 

Arrr ...
Precious little accomplished (again !!). CaptainSteve was absent from his shipyard this past week, as he had to house-sit for CaptainAndrew. This involved looking after the Captain's dog, cat and wide-screen TV !!
 
However, the base-stand has now been completed, and thus ...

... one further item he didst ticketh off.
 
The base-board was trimmed to size, the pedestals fitted, the edging added, and a couple of coats of subdued gloss Tung Oil applied ...

 
To be honest, Our Hero be mightily chuffed wi' the outcome ...

I know this is going to open Pandora's Box, but I use the old Exacto knifes in a rubber handled holder and never had a problem of the blade slipping, etc. I don' t remember where or when I got this holder, but it should not be that unusual.
 
What I do want to mention is that I don't change blades that often. I find it easier and quicker to give the edge and tip of the blade a quick touch up with a diamond coated 'brush'. It works for me