Bob Cleek

Yes, Keith, it has survived to this day.  

Slower glue or faster fingers? 
 
Seriously, thouigh, a bit of either or both would probably lessen the problem. The only other thing to do is work one bulkhead at a time, rather than trying to put glue on them all at once.

Acetone will sure do that to styrene and many other plastics. No bout a doubt it. Lacquer thinners, tolulene, xylene, and similar solvents will melt many plastics also. Most all "hot" solvent-based modeling paints are designed for use on wood and metal surfaces. Applications on many plastics will require a suitable primer.
 
Thanks on the review of Tru-Color paints, too!

No. What I'm talking about is exactly the opposite: layers cut to the shape of each waterline shape, stacked on top of one another. i.e. each one a cross section through the horizontal plane. Conseqently, there's a whole lot fewer layers to loft and cut. (In your case, one "lift" for each deck. Not as many as indicated in the video below which is provided for illustrative purposes.)
 
The deck shapes are all  you need, together with the distance between each deck.
 
The "bread and butter" lift method is described in detail in this article: Building a Bread-and-Butter Solid Hull Ship Model – The Model Shipwright 
This method is favored for larger models for a variety of reasons and the interiors of hulls constructed in this fashion are easily hollowed out for R/C purposes by cutting away waste wood before assembly of the lifts. 
 
A picture is worth a thousand words department:
 
 

Why would you apply an acrylic 'sealant' on metal - sealing metal against what ? Normally, metal primers are there to increase the adhesion of paint to metal surfaces, for instance by slightly etching them.
 
I can understand the use of a primer on certain plastics, if you want to continue with organic solvent-based paints, but acrylic 'sealants' are probably based on a polar solvent, such as water, which do not show very good adhesion to non-polar surfaces that most plastics have. So what are the advantages of using acrylic 'sealants' on plastics?
 

Slower glue or faster fingers? 
 
Seriously, thouigh, a bit of either or both would probably lessen the problem. The only other thing to do is work one bulkhead at a time, rather than trying to put glue on them all at once.

I wrote: "I find it hard to believe that shellac's solvent, alcohol, would "melt" oil paint." I was not as clear as I could have been. I'm no chemist by a long shot, but I do know that there's a somewhat significant difference between what is called "grain alcohol," which you can drink, "denatured alcohol," (sometimes called "methylated spirits,") which is used as the solvent in shellac (and which you can't drink,) and isopropyl alcohol, which you can't drink, isn't used for thinning shellac, and will dissolve oil paint.  I could be mistaken, but I believe it is the isopropyl which is added to the alcohol to form isopropyl alcohol (sometimes called "isopropanol") that dissolves many oils, alkaloids, and natural resins and not the alcohol itself. My bad for not being more specific. 
 
As for oil paint film "aging," or perhaps more accurately put, "polymerizing." tubed artists' oil paint is intentionally compounded so that it will remain "wet" for a protracted period (i.e. polymerize slowly) so that artists using it, particularly to paint pictures on stretched canvas and wooden panels, can easily work with the undried paint over a longer period of time using established techniques for applying and mixing colors directly on the painted surface. To accomplish this, artist's oils are made with raw linseed oil which polymerizes very slowly. When using artists' oil colors to paint models, heavy metal salts like cobalt and manganese which accelerate the polymerization of the linseed or other vegetable oil carrier in the artists' oil colors are added to speed up the "drying time." (Linseed oil with driers added is commonly sold as "boiled linseed oil, although it's not boiled at all.) This accelerator is called "Japan drier." * Adding the proper amount of Japan drier to a raw oil-based paint will speed up the "drying" of the paint to as little as an hour.  (There are corresponding "drying" conditioners sold for tubed acrylic artists' colors.) When using tubed artists' colors, be they oil-based or acrylic-based, they have to be thought of as simply pigment mixed with a carrier, oil or acrylic base. While classical oil painting artists use artists' colors straight out of the tube, modelers who use them for brush or airbrush application need to condition the tubed paint, which requires thinning and adding dryers to achieve the desired consistency and drying time. 
 
*   "Japan drier" is so called from the practice of "Japanning," an enamel paint finishing technique, especially for metal, which was popular in earlier times to mimic the Japanese finishing technique of building up a thick coating of high gloss lacquer coats. "Japanning" required applying multiple coats of oil-based high gloss paint which had to dry thoroughly between coats. That would have required a very long manufacturing process allowing for the drying time without the addition of "Japanning driers" to the enamel paint.

That's a new one on me! I find it hard to believe that shellac's solvent, alcohol, would "melt" oil paint. The highly volatile solvents in lacquer would certainly have that effect, I'd expect, but not shellac. On the other hand, alcohol will thin (i.e. "mellt") most water-based acrylic paints.  

No idea for sure why the rattle can gloss lacquer clouded on you. The defect you describe is usually related to high humidity in the environment when the lacquer is applied. Alternately, the moisture content of the wood itself may be an issue. Wood readily absorbs moisture and automotive clear lacquer is designed to be applied to metal, not wood.
 
If I were you (and I admit I'm not,) I'd strip it to bare wood. Sand perfectly smooth. Apply a sealer coat of thinned spar varnish to soak into the wood and then eight coats of spar varnish, sanding lightly between each coat to key the surface (don't sand off the previous coats. The object is to build up a thick coating that provides some depth to the varnish that enhances the wood grain. (Use a tack rag to remove all traces of dust before varnishing.) If you really want to get fancy, after the eight coats of spar varnish dry well, hand rub the knob (or machine polish it if you have a wheel) with rottenstone and pumice until you obtain the level of gloss you desire. (Obtainable at any paint store. Follow simple instructions on the container.) This will provide a deep fine-furniture finish that won't look garish like high-gloss varnish alone can often look and its incredible smoothness with be a pleasure every time you touch it. (This is how Rolls Royce finished the interior trim on their now-classic motorcars. Modernly, Rolls Royce coats the wood trim with a number of proprietary resin coats that are then baked to cure the resin, after which they polish the surfaces with fine abrasives like pumice and rottenstone in the old fashioned manner.)
 
 

Excellent! Stories like yours serve to encourage others to keep an eye out for bargains on the used tool market. It's often quite amazing what can be found. 
 

Acetone will sure do that to styrene and many other plastics. No bout a doubt it. Lacquer thinners, tolulene, xylene, and similar solvents will melt many plastics also. Most all "hot" solvent-based modeling paints are designed for use on wood and metal surfaces. Applications on many plastics will require a suitable primer.
 
Thanks on the review of Tru-Color paints, too!

Acetone will sure do that to styrene and many other plastics. No bout a doubt it. Lacquer thinners, tolulene, xylene, and similar solvents will melt many plastics also. Most all "hot" solvent-based modeling paints are designed for use on wood and metal surfaces. Applications on many plastics will require a suitable primer.
 
Thanks on the review of Tru-Color paints, too!

Bob, Tru-Color used Acetone as a thinner. I tried out a rattle can of their paint on a bare styrene kit I've been working on. Not thinking, I sprayed and the old plastic looked like it was orange peel. The newer Evergreen did not. I had read that Tru-Color needed to go over primed resin, but I'd say prime any plastics also. I love the color ranges; they've added naval colors to their railroad, aircraft and armor lines

I hear you on that score, but I think that's just because we're used to dancing with the girl we brought. I was just thinking that this guy is planning to build an R/C model and an old school "bread and butter" lifts hull would probably be a lot easier and stronger than anything else. If the waterlines are cut carefully, it's quite easy to fair up the hull by simply "knocking off the corners" using a chisel, plane, spokeshave, and/or a disk sander and sanding board. 

Excellent! Stories like yours serve to encourage others to keep an eye out for bargains on the used tool market. It's often quite amazing what can be found. 
 

I hear you on that score, but I think that's just because we're used to dancing with the girl we brought. I was just thinking that this guy is planning to build an R/C model and an old school "bread and butter" lifts hull would probably be a lot easier and stronger than anything else. If the waterlines are cut carefully, it's quite easy to fair up the hull by simply "knocking off the corners" using a chisel, plane, spokeshave, and/or a disk sander and sanding board. 

I hear you on that score, but I think that's just because we're used to dancing with the girl we brought. I was just thinking that this guy is planning to build an R/C model and an old school "bread and butter" lifts hull would probably be a lot easier and stronger than anything else. If the waterlines are cut carefully, it's quite easy to fair up the hull by simply "knocking off the corners" using a chisel, plane, spokeshave, and/or a disk sander and sanding board. 

You are very likely correct.   I just prefer using a sanding belt/drum with coarse grit on a small assembly.  A large board cut using a chisel or hand plane does not appeal to me.   It is also not a lot different than the work needed to loft a lot of moulds for single layer POB.  Traditional WL based bread and butter needs a change in perspective.
 
The main factor for me is my obsession with POF.   For me, the lofting is the same whether I build with spaces or no spaces,  show the framing or plank over it,  use stylized framing,  use NA or French all bends,  or  (the Fates forbid) use the furkopfta English framing.  By that, I mean decreasing timber siding in the upper works, single filling frames between the bends, shifting out of line top timbers to frame ports.
 
I am much more comfortable with the pattern intervals of Station to Station as opposed to WL to WL.

In which case, it would be much easier to slice "lifts" the shape of the waterlines horizontally from the "loaf" instead of vertically. A lot less cutting to do and probably a stronger hull structure than planks on frames. Much faster because much less work. No?

Excellent! Stories like yours serve to encourage others to keep an eye out for bargains on the used tool market. It's often quite amazing what can be found. 
 

While there is a temptation to want to use “the best,” unless you are building an open framed Dockyard style model, the classic ship modeling woods are a waste of money.
 
Do Not use plywood for bulkheads.  By doing so  the working surface becomes the the various veneers and punky “mystery wood” used to laminate the plywood.  While some modelers have had success with  very high quality Baltic Birch plywood this is very different from the usual craft grades available.  Likewise, I would not choose MDF, the staple of many kits today.
 
If you live in the US and have access to a table saw regular construction grade “pine” lumber can be an excellent choice.  In many USA markets this is actually SPF lumber.  This stands for Spruce, Pine, Fir.  For structural members I would choose pine or possibly fir.  Spruce could actually be a nice planking choice as it bends nicely.  It is easily distinguished from the other two. It is whiter in color and has, at least for me, a slightly objectionable odor, not the nice piny smell.
 
True pine is a beautiful wood.  It was the choice of makers of patterns for castings and of professionals building ship models for display and especially for experimental models towed in towing tanks.  In your case, to form bulkheads I would build frames Hahn style laminated from two thinner layers.
 
Selecting your lumber by sorting through  a stack at your local lumberyard to find the right species, and grain orientation can be an enjoyable way to begin your project.  And, since the cost per board ft will be much less than that of a hobby grade material you can afford to buy larger pieces in order to utilize smaller areas with the grain that you are looking for.  Add what’s left over to your stash.
 
Roger

Let’s move along so we can catch up to where I am
Covid came and I got bored and purchased a 3D printer. One of the files I got was an excellent Capt Jack Sparrow
So I printed him out and painted using acrylics and oils. I plan on using him displayed with the completed Pearl.
 

 

 

 

Needs a new flex shaft.  On\off, no speed co control bug I plan to add a foot control.  Mounted on  cast iron blocks but can be removed and hung up.  Runs good and I got it cheap enough that I don't mind putting some more money into it. 
 
 

The Ferris wooden steamships had an electrical lighting system.  Since I was planning to put a lot of detail into the model that I wanted viewers to see, I installed an electrical lighting system in the Okesa. A family member who is an electrical engineer designed the circuit(s) for me.   The Ferris wooden steamships had an   The following pictures Illustrate the installation of the lighting system for the lower hold.  In the background you can see many of the upper deck framing and lower hold components that were installed in the model.

This is a trial run to see if I can start a Build Log that describes how I built the model.  I will submit a picture to the Gallery of the completed  model.