Bob Cleek

Oh, yeah! Copper is through the roof. The next time I need some, I'm considering going to my local scrap yard to see if they have any they'd sell me cheap. That's where the "tweakers" who steal wiring from unoccupied buildings fence heir loot. 
 

Might I also suggest AC outlets in the front of workbenches just below the bench top?. These make it very easy to plug, unplug, and use hand-held corded power tools like Dremels and soldering irons at the bench with the cords hanging down in front of the bench rather than running across the bench top where they can foul on stuff on the bench top.  Each power outlet circuit should have a ground-fault interrupter on it for those occasions when you inadvertently lay your hot soldering iron across it's plastic power cord.  
 
15 amp service is fine for lighting and small power tools, but I'd suggest you provide 30 amp service to all outlets for when you may need it. (Like when your electric coffee pot, microwave, and portable space heater are all running at the same time.  )  As you anticipate doing full-size woodworking in your shop, I think you'd also be wise to run 220 VAC to power outlets in appropriate areas. You may well come across a really great deal on a used stationary power tool that requires 220 VAC power, as all the best ones do. Having 220 VAC available, will greatly increase the number of available quality used tools for sale to pick from and if you are going to spring for a new 10" table saw or other stationary power tool, the 220 VAC will enable your stationary tool to operate at its full potential
 
In addition to workbenches against the wall, I suggest you also acquire a free-standing workbench on locking casters that can be rolled around as the job requires. It should as big as you can make it, 8'X10', if possible, and be the same height as your table saw + router table (in the saw table extension) so the bench can serve as an extension table if needed. I've found a free-standing, solid, heavy, rolling table is necessary for working on things that are too large to fit on the wall-mounted bench, like furniture and model cases. Since you are planning on doing full-sized work, your rolling workbench should have a decent below the bench top woodworking vise mounted on it (preferably one with a raising bench-dog bar on it) and your wall-mounted bench should have the biggest machinist's vise the bench can handle (4" jaws minimum) very securely mounted on a corner of the wall-mounted bench. (Think in terms of something that will hold a workpiece rock steady while you really put your back into a pipe wrench with a breaker bar.) A large rolling workbench can have drawers and cabinets installed in the body of it for tool storage. The added weight of the tools contributes to the stability of the table.
 
Since this workshop area will be in the back of your garage, I'd suggest you provide a way to roll your free-standing workbench and stationary power tools out to the drive way or at least to the threshold of the garage doors and, if it's not a huge undertaking, that may involve running 120 and 220 VAC outlets closer to the doors. When this is possible, and with a large fan at your back, spray painting, powered sanding, table sawing, and other messy jobs can be done without resorting to an expensive built-in sawdust and shavings vacuum system. The fan will blow a large amount of the airborne fine dust outside and save you a lot of shop cleanup time. (This practice is subject to the circumstances however... Some neighbors take exception to late-night power tool operating noise and perceive a cloud of sawdust drifting towards their front porch like it was mustard gas.) 
 
As your new workshop in the garage is presumably attached to the house and not removed some inconvenient distance away, you will almost certainly encounter the problem of household members employing your shop benches and tabletops... indeed any available horizontal surface in your shop... as a place to dump whatever they don't want to be inside the house at any given moment. Alas, as hard as I've tried, I've never discovered a solution to this problem that didn't involve getting a divorce. If anybody's solved this problem, please share your secret!  

Jaeger and Bob,
 
Excellent suggestions!
 
I had been thinking about a bunch of AC outlets below the front edge of the benches, alternating with the vacuum outlets. Your point about not dragging power cords across the bench top is well taken!
 
The idea of running some 220 VAC to outlets above the benches is also a pretty easy thing to add. There are already 220 VAC circuits in the main breaker panel in the garage. One thing to keep in mind before planning a lot of separate AC circuits - have you priced Romex lately? I recently installed a whole house fan in the attic and I needed about 150 feet of 14/2 Romex and it was going to cost a small fortune. Fortunately I discovered most of a 250 foot roll hiding in the back of the garage storage, left over from a wiring project long ago.
 
I planned to put the vacuum inside a cabinet to reduce the noise. I still wanted to be able to pull it out and roll it around so I could use it in the garage also. However, on the other side of the common wall between the shop and garage is a large storage cabinet that I could put the vacuum in! No need for the wireless on/off. I can just put a switched AC outlet in the garage cabinet. A hole can run through the wall from the vacuum to the vacuum manifold.
 
I do plan to have the shop floor level with the garage floor, with a 36" door between the shop and garage. I will need to roll some pretty heavy tools and boxes into the shop.
 
I had also thought about having a roll-around work bench so I could get at all sides of a large model without having to turn it around. One of the benches will be about 90 inches (228 cm) long. I suppose I could make it movable. It is the one closest to the door and is where I was thinking of putting the model. I would attach the AC outlets to the wall above where it would normally be positioned. I plan to put pegboard above these wall outlets. These would remain on the wall when the bench is moved.
 
The room isn't very large so I will have to plan the size of a moveable work bench so it can be turned around without having to roll it out to the garage to turn it and then back into the shop. I just tried it in the CAD model and an 84" x 30" (213 x 76 cm) table can be rotated 360 degrees in the shop if I champfer the corners about 6 inches (15 cm)!

I second Bob's rec. of having 220V.   It is expensive to retro fit.  and again with Bob over engineer the amps. 
Any proper 14" bandsaw will need 220V.   You being your own sawmill = big boy bandsaw.

You are missing a real opportunity in not taking full advantage of this separate room.
Put your shop vac in there.  Add a radio controlled On/Off.  The 4" or 2.5" hole in the wall for the vac hose can also take the power cord for the vac.  In place of the vac under the bench, put a Dust Deputy cyclone trap -  or whatever brand or type you like.   A vac with no noise is a luxury that most of us can only dream about.   My only annoyance with the Dust Deputy is that the 5 gal bottom trap does not play nice if a kitchen 22 gal plastic trash bag is in it.  Dumping a full 5 gal bucket into a plastic bag is messy - an outdoors job that gets flocculant mess everywhere - no matter how tightly closed the bag is during the dump.

From my perspective....  look to the future for what models and scale you'll build.  I have 3 benches.   On one is a lathe with a shelf above and one below and two drawers.  Another has the mill and my small circular saw and with drawers for accessories. There's also a freestanding scroll saw and laser cutter.  The third one is for building though it's actually dual purpose.  For the other tools stored (belt sander/disk combo, thickness sander and odds and ends) I do move the model and use that one.
 
If you have the room, go for as much depth as others have recommended and as much length as you can.  Do set up the lower surface for storage and also consider drawers as we tend to have a lot of small tools   For these and wood storage, I have smaller cabinets and even book shelves I picked up over the years.

Might I also suggest AC outlets in the front of workbenches just below the bench top?. These make it very easy to plug, unplug, and use hand-held corded power tools like Dremels and soldering irons at the bench with the cords hanging down in front of the bench rather than running across the bench top where they can foul on stuff on the bench top.  Each power outlet circuit should have a ground-fault interrupter on it for those occasions when you inadvertently lay your hot soldering iron across it's plastic power cord.  
 
15 amp service is fine for lighting and small power tools, but I'd suggest you provide 30 amp service to all outlets for when you may need it. (Like when your electric coffee pot, microwave, and portable space heater are all running at the same time.  )  As you anticipate doing full-size woodworking in your shop, I think you'd also be wise to run 220 VAC to power outlets in appropriate areas. You may well come across a really great deal on a used stationary power tool that requires 220 VAC power, as all the best ones do. Having 220 VAC available, will greatly increase the number of available quality used tools for sale to pick from and if you are going to spring for a new 10" table saw or other stationary power tool, the 220 VAC will enable your stationary tool to operate at its full potential
 
In addition to workbenches against the wall, I suggest you also acquire a free-standing workbench on locking casters that can be rolled around as the job requires. It should as big as you can make it, 8'X10', if possible, and be the same height as your table saw + router table (in the saw table extension) so the bench can serve as an extension table if needed. I've found a free-standing, solid, heavy, rolling table is necessary for working on things that are too large to fit on the wall-mounted bench, like furniture and model cases. Since you are planning on doing full-sized work, your rolling workbench should have a decent below the bench top woodworking vise mounted on it (preferably one with a raising bench-dog bar on it) and your wall-mounted bench should have the biggest machinist's vise the bench can handle (4" jaws minimum) very securely mounted on a corner of the wall-mounted bench. (Think in terms of something that will hold a workpiece rock steady while you really put your back into a pipe wrench with a breaker bar.) A large rolling workbench can have drawers and cabinets installed in the body of it for tool storage. The added weight of the tools contributes to the stability of the table.
 
Since this workshop area will be in the back of your garage, I'd suggest you provide a way to roll your free-standing workbench and stationary power tools out to the drive way or at least to the threshold of the garage doors and, if it's not a huge undertaking, that may involve running 120 and 220 VAC outlets closer to the doors. When this is possible, and with a large fan at your back, spray painting, powered sanding, table sawing, and other messy jobs can be done without resorting to an expensive built-in sawdust and shavings vacuum system. The fan will blow a large amount of the airborne fine dust outside and save you a lot of shop cleanup time. (This practice is subject to the circumstances however... Some neighbors take exception to late-night power tool operating noise and perceive a cloud of sawdust drifting towards their front porch like it was mustard gas.) 
 
As your new workshop in the garage is presumably attached to the house and not removed some inconvenient distance away, you will almost certainly encounter the problem of household members employing your shop benches and tabletops... indeed any available horizontal surface in your shop... as a place to dump whatever they don't want to be inside the house at any given moment. Alas, as hard as I've tried, I've never discovered a solution to this problem that didn't involve getting a divorce. If anybody's solved this problem, please share your secret!  

If the comments and complaints I read in the plastic kit modeling forums are any indicationi, it seems there's an ongoing problem with the fitting accuracy of a lot of plastic model kits. Apparently, it's not all that easy to manufacture plastic parts to the degree of fit accuracy many plastic modelers expect. I'd expect fitting plastic planking would be a nightmare if the problems that are encountered just fitting two plastic hull halves together without gaps is any indication. 

I thought I'd "amassed a notable library over my adult lifetime," but I'm truly humbled. I wonder who created that spreadsheet. That was a monumental task in itself.
 
However, please Roger, let's not draw attention to this opportunity until we've had a chance to savor each and every mouthwatering morsel of it before it turns into a "Black Friday Sale!"    
 
You can tell a lot about a man by the books he reads. Mr. Curry is a guy I'd have loved to meet! I'm sorry I never got to know him.

Thanks for the advice. I actually have. cameron drill press with xy table i got from the late Charley Files so i am not too interested in the drill press attachment. I also have a desk top holder for the Dremel pendant motor but never use it for the same reason you stated, it gets in the way of everything on the work bench. 
i have seen the video above. It is excellent. 

I thought I'd "amassed a notable library over my adult lifetime," but I'm truly humbled. I wonder who created that spreadsheet. That was a monumental task in itself.
 
However, please Roger, let's not draw attention to this opportunity until we've had a chance to savor each and every mouthwatering morsel of it before it turns into a "Black Friday Sale!"    
 
You can tell a lot about a man by the books he reads. Mr. Curry is a guy I'd have loved to meet! I'm sorry I never got to know him.

I thought I'd "amassed a notable library over my adult lifetime," but I'm truly humbled. I wonder who created that spreadsheet. That was a monumental task in itself.
 
However, please Roger, let's not draw attention to this opportunity until we've had a chance to savor each and every mouthwatering morsel of it before it turns into a "Black Friday Sale!"    
 
You can tell a lot about a man by the books he reads. Mr. Curry is a guy I'd have loved to meet! I'm sorry I never got to know him.

Glad to see your surgery was a success and you're back at your bench. Your work is truly and inspiration. Thanks for sharing it with us.

We often get requests to help with research, some of which are open ended.  Since I too have amassed a notable library over my adult lifetime I used to direct the questioner to the relevant books in my library resulting in complaints about telling others to spend money, limited budgets, and the cost of books.
 
If you don’t already have a library, this is your opportunity to start one!  Almost any book on this list would be worth adding to a ship modeling library.  The prices including shipping is less than a visit to your favorite fast food joint or premium coffee shop.
 
Roger

I've heard rumors of a Foredom 45 degree adapter for their standard handpieces, but I've never seen one. That said, the belt-driven dental engine handpiece selection is unlimited and angled dental engine handpieces come in a myriad of shapes and sizes. Particularly for working inside a hull, the dental handpieces, which are designed to do fine drilling and grinding in the confines of the human mouth, are the right tool for the job. That would require acquiring a dental engine which is an expensive proposition at around $1,000 for an engine and $200 and up per handpiece, but belt-driven, foot controlled bench model dental engines, while still made, are very common on the used market because many dental labs are now going over to micromotor technology. I was recently able to come across an unused Buffalo Dental Co. bench dental engine and handpiece on eBay for seventy-five bucks. It was listed as a "inoperable steam punk" decorator piece. Upon examining the photos closely, It looked brand new, but was missing a belt and a couple of the belt wheels. The manufacturer told me they had parts available, so I decided to take a chance. It turned out to be missing the belt, wheels, and motor brushes, which cost me another fifty bucks or so from the manufacturer. I suspect it was stock on hand somewhere that had been cannibalized for the missing parts as a matter of convenience and the parts never replaced. Working dental engines and handpieces can be found on eBay for five hundred dollars or less these days. Having a Foredom, I found the dental engine a much better option for very fine work.
 
While I have an older Foredom flex-shaft tool and the two most common handpieces, the collet head and the Phillips chuck, I prefer hanging mine from the Foredom hanger that clamps to the lip of a bench. This allows me the option of putting it wherever I desire on whichever bench I am using. While other's like the benchtop base, before I had the hanging post, I found that with the bench top mount the flex-shaft was always getting in the way of things on the benchtop and, when I was focusing on the handpiece, it was all too easy to pull the shaft across the top of the bench and foul something on the bench with potentially disastrous consequences. The choice of mount is obviously a matter of the operator's preference and I'd say that, considering the relatively small cost involved, getting the hanging yoke and hanging post in addition to the bench base is probably a smart move because you'll have twice the flexibility is setting up for any particular job (e.g. sanding frames inside a hull.) 
 
As for Foredom handpieces, you will want both the chuck and the collet basic handpieces. You will also want to purchase a collet set for the collet handpiece. The collet makes swapping 1/8" Dremel bits more convenient than the chuck and if you have a 3/32" collet, you can do the same for standard dental burrs which are available online and of much higher quality and variety than the `1/8" shaft bits offered by Dremel. (You may even get your dentist to save you his old dull dental burrs, which remain just fine for woodworking.) You will also need a "reduction chuck," which permits the use of very small drill bits. This is essentially a small pin vise with a 1/8" shaft. (There's one demonstrated in the video below.)
 
Before you take a look at the Foredom drill press, I would strongly suggest you consider the Vanda-Lay drill press, or, better yet, the Vanda-Lay "mill/drill" with an X-Y table and an optional Z axis as well, The Vanda-Lay system is a reasonably affordable alternative to a much more expensive dedicated heavy-duty micro-mill. The Vanda-Lay drill press is similar to, but probably at a lower price point than the Foredom drill press, and nearly all the reasons a modeler would want a small drill press are reasons why they'd find they needed an X-Y table on it as well. The last time I spoke with Vanda-Lay (a family owned business,) they assured me that they could provide a holder for the 1" Foredom handpieces instead of the Dremel Moto-tool on special order. (Milling one yourself would be an easy task if you had access to a larger mill.)  See: https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/
 
If you haven't seen this video yet, it's worth a watch. The guy is a dentist and master modeler and gives a great overview of rotary tool options.
 
 

I've heard rumors of a Foredom 45 degree adapter for their standard handpieces, but I've never seen one. That said, the belt-driven dental engine handpiece selection is unlimited and angled dental engine handpieces come in a myriad of shapes and sizes. Particularly for working inside a hull, the dental handpieces, which are designed to do fine drilling and grinding in the confines of the human mouth, are the right tool for the job. That would require acquiring a dental engine which is an expensive proposition at around $1,000 for an engine and $200 and up per handpiece, but belt-driven, foot controlled bench model dental engines, while still made, are very common on the used market because many dental labs are now going over to micromotor technology. I was recently able to come across an unused Buffalo Dental Co. bench dental engine and handpiece on eBay for seventy-five bucks. It was listed as a "inoperable steam punk" decorator piece. Upon examining the photos closely, It looked brand new, but was missing a belt and a couple of the belt wheels. The manufacturer told me they had parts available, so I decided to take a chance. It turned out to be missing the belt, wheels, and motor brushes, which cost me another fifty bucks or so from the manufacturer. I suspect it was stock on hand somewhere that had been cannibalized for the missing parts as a matter of convenience and the parts never replaced. Working dental engines and handpieces can be found on eBay for five hundred dollars or less these days. Having a Foredom, I found the dental engine a much better option for very fine work.
 
While I have an older Foredom flex-shaft tool and the two most common handpieces, the collet head and the Phillips chuck, I prefer hanging mine from the Foredom hanger that clamps to the lip of a bench. This allows me the option of putting it wherever I desire on whichever bench I am using. While other's like the benchtop base, before I had the hanging post, I found that with the bench top mount the flex-shaft was always getting in the way of things on the benchtop and, when I was focusing on the handpiece, it was all too easy to pull the shaft across the top of the bench and foul something on the bench with potentially disastrous consequences. The choice of mount is obviously a matter of the operator's preference and I'd say that, considering the relatively small cost involved, getting the hanging yoke and hanging post in addition to the bench base is probably a smart move because you'll have twice the flexibility is setting up for any particular job (e.g. sanding frames inside a hull.) 
 
As for Foredom handpieces, you will want both the chuck and the collet basic handpieces. You will also want to purchase a collet set for the collet handpiece. The collet makes swapping 1/8" Dremel bits more convenient than the chuck and if you have a 3/32" collet, you can do the same for standard dental burrs which are available online and of much higher quality and variety than the `1/8" shaft bits offered by Dremel. (You may even get your dentist to save you his old dull dental burrs, which remain just fine for woodworking.) You will also need a "reduction chuck," which permits the use of very small drill bits. This is essentially a small pin vise with a 1/8" shaft. (There's one demonstrated in the video below.)
 
Before you take a look at the Foredom drill press, I would strongly suggest you consider the Vanda-Lay drill press, or, better yet, the Vanda-Lay "mill/drill" with an X-Y table and an optional Z axis as well, The Vanda-Lay system is a reasonably affordable alternative to a much more expensive dedicated heavy-duty micro-mill. The Vanda-Lay drill press is similar to, but probably at a lower price point than the Foredom drill press, and nearly all the reasons a modeler would want a small drill press are reasons why they'd find they needed an X-Y table on it as well. The last time I spoke with Vanda-Lay (a family owned business,) they assured me that they could provide a holder for the 1" Foredom handpieces instead of the Dremel Moto-tool on special order. (Milling one yourself would be an easy task if you had access to a larger mill.)  See: https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/
 
If you haven't seen this video yet, it's worth a watch. The guy is a dentist and master modeler and gives a great overview of rotary tool options.
 
 

I've heard rumors of a Foredom 45 degree adapter for their standard handpieces, but I've never seen one. That said, the belt-driven dental engine handpiece selection is unlimited and angled dental engine handpieces come in a myriad of shapes and sizes. Particularly for working inside a hull, the dental handpieces, which are designed to do fine drilling and grinding in the confines of the human mouth, are the right tool for the job. That would require acquiring a dental engine which is an expensive proposition at around $1,000 for an engine and $200 and up per handpiece, but belt-driven, foot controlled bench model dental engines, while still made, are very common on the used market because many dental labs are now going over to micromotor technology. I was recently able to come across an unused Buffalo Dental Co. bench dental engine and handpiece on eBay for seventy-five bucks. It was listed as a "inoperable steam punk" decorator piece. Upon examining the photos closely, It looked brand new, but was missing a belt and a couple of the belt wheels. The manufacturer told me they had parts available, so I decided to take a chance. It turned out to be missing the belt, wheels, and motor brushes, which cost me another fifty bucks or so from the manufacturer. I suspect it was stock on hand somewhere that had been cannibalized for the missing parts as a matter of convenience and the parts never replaced. Working dental engines and handpieces can be found on eBay for five hundred dollars or less these days. Having a Foredom, I found the dental engine a much better option for very fine work.
 
While I have an older Foredom flex-shaft tool and the two most common handpieces, the collet head and the Phillips chuck, I prefer hanging mine from the Foredom hanger that clamps to the lip of a bench. This allows me the option of putting it wherever I desire on whichever bench I am using. While other's like the benchtop base, before I had the hanging post, I found that with the bench top mount the flex-shaft was always getting in the way of things on the benchtop and, when I was focusing on the handpiece, it was all too easy to pull the shaft across the top of the bench and foul something on the bench with potentially disastrous consequences. The choice of mount is obviously a matter of the operator's preference and I'd say that, considering the relatively small cost involved, getting the hanging yoke and hanging post in addition to the bench base is probably a smart move because you'll have twice the flexibility is setting up for any particular job (e.g. sanding frames inside a hull.) 
 
As for Foredom handpieces, you will want both the chuck and the collet basic handpieces. You will also want to purchase a collet set for the collet handpiece. The collet makes swapping 1/8" Dremel bits more convenient than the chuck and if you have a 3/32" collet, you can do the same for standard dental burrs which are available online and of much higher quality and variety than the `1/8" shaft bits offered by Dremel. (You may even get your dentist to save you his old dull dental burrs, which remain just fine for woodworking.) You will also need a "reduction chuck," which permits the use of very small drill bits. This is essentially a small pin vise with a 1/8" shaft. (There's one demonstrated in the video below.)
 
Before you take a look at the Foredom drill press, I would strongly suggest you consider the Vanda-Lay drill press, or, better yet, the Vanda-Lay "mill/drill" with an X-Y table and an optional Z axis as well, The Vanda-Lay system is a reasonably affordable alternative to a much more expensive dedicated heavy-duty micro-mill. The Vanda-Lay drill press is similar to, but probably at a lower price point than the Foredom drill press, and nearly all the reasons a modeler would want a small drill press are reasons why they'd find they needed an X-Y table on it as well. The last time I spoke with Vanda-Lay (a family owned business,) they assured me that they could provide a holder for the 1" Foredom handpieces instead of the Dremel Moto-tool on special order. (Milling one yourself would be an easy task if you had access to a larger mill.)  See: https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/
 
If you haven't seen this video yet, it's worth a watch. The guy is a dentist and master modeler and gives a great overview of rotary tool options.
 
 

Great advice there from Jaager but I'll add a little if I may.  The TX which is a fantastic motor is only available in 115V so it cannot be used in the UK without a transformer.
 
The SR may seem the cheaper option but for ship building I have never been able to stall the motor on mine as the torque is over and above what I need.  I have also found that I do not need to awl to make starter holes.  The reason being is because I can put the drill bit where it needs to be and start the drill at such low RPM using the foot pedal that the bit just does not drift.  This is the best thing about the foot pedal - the starting RPM is governed by the user and not the tool.
 
As for the router made by Stewmac - goodness me how nice does that tool look!!!  I've had this on my radar for quite some time but it will have to wait.

The TX is 1/3HP,  has a speed range of 500-15,000
This offers more power and control in the low range.  I do not think that 30,000 RPM is a wood thing.
 
I have desk top because I want to have the cutter moving as it comes at the wood.
I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press, because I want the drill bit to be on the drill site- (awl made starter hole) before I start the spin.   There are two stage speed controllers - so that once you have a favorite speed - it is not lost when turning the motor off.
 
Both of the main ones?   
StewMac has accessories  that require a hand piece that they supply -  course threads at the tip.
Two style router tables -   The high end one I mounted as a table to cut a rabbet.
There is also a block with 90 degree and 45 degree hand piece holders -  to vise mount the tool.
I think it is the thinner hand piece, so that if you do not mind the threads for hand held work, the Foredom sold one is not needed.
 
which ever one the hand pieces you buy require?
 
get the bench mount-   The bale does not cost much, so you can buy that just in case.
I bought a fold down shelf bracket  to hold the bale.   If there is a wall close behind your bench, this works.  There are hold along the support so there is adjustment.   The brackets come in pairs, so if both are mounted, you will have L/R options.
 
My problem with the 90 degree adapter is the it extends out too far.   The main job that I was after is fairing the frames inside the hull.   What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.
 
I think that I will find a belt sander to be a "it seemed like a good idea at the time" tool that may not be engineered for our sort of loads.
 
The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

Hi Kevin
 
I've been using a Foredom tool for quite a while now and its not comparable to any high speed drill.  The torque and slow speeds just give you the accuracy and control that you want.  So what have learn't from my ownership?
 
Firstly I no longer hang my Foredom motor up like jewellers do.  It's far too restricting and I've swapped to a desk mounted base as I can literally put this anywhere that I want.  I have found this to be a much better solution and I would recommend the SR motor with a foot pedal control with a key drive shaft.
 


Next the main hand piece is a H30 which takes drills up to 4.0mm and will just about do 95% of all of your tasks.
 

Foredom also make a beautiful drill press that the H30 slides straight into and does a fantastic job.
 

I also have another hand piece which is the H28.  Its about half of the diameter of the H30 and its much smaller to hold in your hand.  Foredom make some really nice micro chucks that fit nicely into the supplied collet with this hand piece.
 

I hope this has been some help - Oh also buy from a registered Foredom dealer as there are so many rip offs out there that are not as good as the real thing
 
Cheers Mark

Hi Bob

Indeed, that curtain of ropes was used in a certain way to prevent the entry of the attackers' shots, as well as to prevent sparks and particles generated by the cannon's firing from entering causing a fire.
You can see an interesting article about the Great Siege Tunnels on wikipedia.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Siege_Tunnels

Regards
 
Belco

Glad to see your surgery was a success and you're back at your bench. Your work is truly and inspiration. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Glad to see your surgery was a success and you're back at your bench. Your work is truly and inspiration. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Glad to see your surgery was a success and you're back at your bench. Your work is truly and inspiration. Thanks for sharing it with us.

They used raw, non-prestretched canvas, tacked down around the edges over and Irish felt underlayment. They threw hot water on the canvas to get it to stretch tightly over the shape of the roof. Some actually applied the paint over the canvas when it was still damp. I wouldn't recommend using waterbased paint for this purpose. I'd use a solvent based "porch enamel." It's best to use an enamel that chalks when it ages, in order to minimize paint buildup on the canvas. The enamel paint was thinned well to soak into the canvas easily.