Bob Cleek

I buy Zinsser Bullseye shellac by the quart at the hardware store. You can get it in pint cans, as well. (Don't buy the spray cans. That's just nuts.) When it suits my needs, I decant some into a small capped container. I collect baby food and spice jars for this purpose. I wouldn't advise storing shellac in a squeeze bottle. It's' very viscous and there really isn't any occasion to squeeze it onto anything and if you did, it would run all over everything. Once it's out in the air, the alcohol evaporates quickly. I apply it with a paint brush which I clean with alcohol in a small capped container. As the shellac is rinsed out of the brush, it dissolves in the alcohol. I use this alcohol with the shellac in it to mix with the shellac if it needs thinning. The can of shellac and a couple of small bottles is all I need.

Indeed. If it works for you, go for it!  

Different strokes for different folks.
 
I have occasion to use very small amounts, and will put a few drops in the target area and spread it with a brush.
If I need more,  the tops of the bottles screw off and I can pour what I need in a small dish  or whatever.

I buy Zinsser Bullseye shellac by the quart at the hardware store. You can get it in pint cans, as well. (Don't buy the spray cans. That's just nuts.) When it suits my needs, I decant some into a small capped container. I collect baby food and spice jars for this purpose. I wouldn't advise storing shellac in a squeeze bottle. It's' very viscous and there really isn't any occasion to squeeze it onto anything and if you did, it would run all over everything. Once it's out in the air, the alcohol evaporates quickly. I apply it with a paint brush which I clean with alcohol in a small capped container. As the shellac is rinsed out of the brush, it dissolves in the alcohol. I use this alcohol with the shellac in it to mix with the shellac if it needs thinning. The can of shellac and a couple of small bottles is all I need.

I buy Zinsser Bullseye shellac by the quart at the hardware store. You can get it in pint cans, as well. (Don't buy the spray cans. That's just nuts.) When it suits my needs, I decant some into a small capped container. I collect baby food and spice jars for this purpose. I wouldn't advise storing shellac in a squeeze bottle. It's' very viscous and there really isn't any occasion to squeeze it onto anything and if you did, it would run all over everything. Once it's out in the air, the alcohol evaporates quickly. I apply it with a paint brush which I clean with alcohol in a small capped container. As the shellac is rinsed out of the brush, it dissolves in the alcohol. I use this alcohol with the shellac in it to mix with the shellac if it needs thinning. The can of shellac and a couple of small bottles is all I need.

I buy Zinsser Bullseye shellac by the quart at the hardware store. You can get it in pint cans, as well. (Don't buy the spray cans. That's just nuts.) When it suits my needs, I decant some into a small capped container. I collect baby food and spice jars for this purpose. I wouldn't advise storing shellac in a squeeze bottle. It's' very viscous and there really isn't any occasion to squeeze it onto anything and if you did, it would run all over everything. Once it's out in the air, the alcohol evaporates quickly. I apply it with a paint brush which I clean with alcohol in a small capped container. As the shellac is rinsed out of the brush, it dissolves in the alcohol. I use this alcohol with the shellac in it to mix with the shellac if it needs thinning. The can of shellac and a couple of small bottles is all I need.

Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
 

I have one of these, as well as a Harbor Freight wood workbench that I cut down to table height. I detailed that modification somewhere on this forum, unfortunately I think that thread was deleted due to some members abusing it.
 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-52-in-W-x-24-in-D-Steel-2-Drawer-Adjustable-Height-Solid-Wood-Top-Workbench-Table-in-White-HOLT5202BJ2/311742117
 

On my way to the Hobby Lobby to get an assortment of bottles, glue and shellac. I will experiment and share my findings. Who knew you could practice chemistry while building wooden model ships. 😆

I've stored it in a small air tight container with no problems.
 
The thing about shellac, is that it doesn't cure like varnish and other stuff. 
The solvent, usually alcohol can evaporate and cause it to thicken or harden, but adding alcohol will bring it back to it's original consistency.

A lot depends upon your individual preferences and the limitations of your location. Some of us have a lot of room to spread out and, most, it seems, don't. Then there's the size of the models you build, which dictates the amount of table top you need. My preference is for a relatively small primary work table and however many rolling tool carts I need to hold tools and materials. The more tools you can "have a place for and everything in its place," the less time is wasted looking for tools that "were just there a minute ago" on a cluttered workspace. I have a rolling Kennedy machinist's tool cart (expensive) and a tool cart from Harbor Freight (inexpensive) that serve me well. I can roll them next to my work table where they are easy to reach from my rolling secretary's chair which is also somewhat height adjustable. (The cheap ones at the office supply stores are great.) 
 
As for a table top, I would suggest the heavier the better for stability. A fire door (not a cheap luan doorskin hollow core interior door) on top of a couple of file cabinets works pretty well. A solid box than can be placed on top of it to raise the work surface to what I call "jeweler's bench height" at near eye level is very helpful for working on very small parts. (Jeweler's benches are very expensive, but a lot can be learned from checking them out in the online catalogs.) Adjustable ergonomic forearm rests are also quite handy for a lot of work, but the store bought ones aren't cheap and I've yet to get around to building a sufficiently adjustable one, so they are still on my bucket list. Arm rests provide stability when working on fine stuff "up in the air," like rigging. (see pic below.)  I also have a couple of hard pressboard "semi-sacrificial" smaller table tops that sit on top of my work benches. I can cut them up and not mind if they get covered in paint and glue drips and other grunge. These have one inch rails across the back and sides to keep stuff from rolling off of them. They're very handy for keeping small parts corralled. 
 
I screw ferrous metal strips to the underside of the front edges of my benches where I do small work. I have a work apron into the hem of which I've sewn rare earth magnets. I stick the hem of my apron to the underside of the bench with the magnets when I sit down to work, creating a cloth "net" which often catches that little part that gets dropped and tries to disappear on the floor forever. It saves lots of time and aggravation! It also catches a lot of chips and junk that you'd otherwise be sweeping up at the end of a work session. Finally, I always install outlet strips on the front of work benches so that corded hand tools can be plugged in and used without the cords stretching over the table top from the wall behind the bench. That leaves the workspace clear and avoids disasters when the cord and the model collide.
 
Below: Harbor Freight rolling tool chest. They come in various configurations. This is the cheapest model at a couple of hundred bucks or less on sale or with a coupon. I attach magnetic strip tool holders and magnetic paper towel holders to them as well. HF sells the paper towel holders for around fifteen bucks and the magnetic tool holders are five bucks a piece.  https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/u-s-general-tool-storage/tool-carts/30-in-4-drawer-tech-cart-black-64818.html 

Adjustable ergonomic forearm supports. Costly at around $90 each. I'd love to have a couple for doing that close-in rigging work in the top hamper. For modeling, I'd be looking for ones that have more reach than the one pictured, though.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/175132691344?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=175132691344&targetid=4581183927179149&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179149&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=c26ea7e8f632134640c7c56cabf27b90
 
 
 
 

Hi Dan welcome to the club. As others have said it depend's on the room you have. Am lucky to have a two car garage and a extension I added on to make more room for my stuff. As far as work benches and desk looking at other people shops help you in figuring that out about what you want. Am always asking some one for photo's of their shop, some times just to see their shop which also helps me use their ideals for things in it must like work benches. I have never had any one say know and we all like showing were we spend are time working on our hobby's.  When I built my hobby desk I used Woodsmith plan of their small scale Hobby Bench which is on the cover. It reminded me of a jeweler workbench, and I have alway's wanted one. Nice thing about building your own is what you can add and the detail you put in to it.  I also have a 8 foot wood worker bench. My 74 has its on workbench and is much to big to build it on the hobby bench. Her work bench is height adjustable and I just added a tilting to it that allows me to tilt it one way or the other. Really is nice for  working inside the hull.  The Woodsmith  issue is Vol 37, No 219 Dated June/July2015.  Forgive for the mess. Gary

A lot depends upon your individual preferences and the limitations of your location. Some of us have a lot of room to spread out and, most, it seems, don't. Then there's the size of the models you build, which dictates the amount of table top you need. My preference is for a relatively small primary work table and however many rolling tool carts I need to hold tools and materials. The more tools you can "have a place for and everything in its place," the less time is wasted looking for tools that "were just there a minute ago" on a cluttered workspace. I have a rolling Kennedy machinist's tool cart (expensive) and a tool cart from Harbor Freight (inexpensive) that serve me well. I can roll them next to my work table where they are easy to reach from my rolling secretary's chair which is also somewhat height adjustable. (The cheap ones at the office supply stores are great.) 
 
As for a table top, I would suggest the heavier the better for stability. A fire door (not a cheap luan doorskin hollow core interior door) on top of a couple of file cabinets works pretty well. A solid box than can be placed on top of it to raise the work surface to what I call "jeweler's bench height" at near eye level is very helpful for working on very small parts. (Jeweler's benches are very expensive, but a lot can be learned from checking them out in the online catalogs.) Adjustable ergonomic forearm rests are also quite handy for a lot of work, but the store bought ones aren't cheap and I've yet to get around to building a sufficiently adjustable one, so they are still on my bucket list. Arm rests provide stability when working on fine stuff "up in the air," like rigging. (see pic below.)  I also have a couple of hard pressboard "semi-sacrificial" smaller table tops that sit on top of my work benches. I can cut them up and not mind if they get covered in paint and glue drips and other grunge. These have one inch rails across the back and sides to keep stuff from rolling off of them. They're very handy for keeping small parts corralled. 
 
I screw ferrous metal strips to the underside of the front edges of my benches where I do small work. I have a work apron into the hem of which I've sewn rare earth magnets. I stick the hem of my apron to the underside of the bench with the magnets when I sit down to work, creating a cloth "net" which often catches that little part that gets dropped and tries to disappear on the floor forever. It saves lots of time and aggravation! It also catches a lot of chips and junk that you'd otherwise be sweeping up at the end of a work session. Finally, I always install outlet strips on the front of work benches so that corded hand tools can be plugged in and used without the cords stretching over the table top from the wall behind the bench. That leaves the workspace clear and avoids disasters when the cord and the model collide.
 
Below: Harbor Freight rolling tool chest. They come in various configurations. This is the cheapest model at a couple of hundred bucks or less on sale or with a coupon. I attach magnetic strip tool holders and magnetic paper towel holders to them as well. HF sells the paper towel holders for around fifteen bucks and the magnetic tool holders are five bucks a piece.  https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/u-s-general-tool-storage/tool-carts/30-in-4-drawer-tech-cart-black-64818.html 

Adjustable ergonomic forearm supports. Costly at around $90 each. I'd love to have a couple for doing that close-in rigging work in the top hamper. For modeling, I'd be looking for ones that have more reach than the one pictured, though.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/175132691344?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=175132691344&targetid=4581183927179149&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179149&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=c26ea7e8f632134640c7c56cabf27b90
 
 
 
 

Sad news indeed. Nothing I can say will much matter. I can only imagine the pain you and yours are working through right now. 
 

Sad news indeed. Nothing I can say will much matter. I can only imagine the pain you and yours are working through right now. 
 

A lot depends upon your individual preferences and the limitations of your location. Some of us have a lot of room to spread out and, most, it seems, don't. Then there's the size of the models you build, which dictates the amount of table top you need. My preference is for a relatively small primary work table and however many rolling tool carts I need to hold tools and materials. The more tools you can "have a place for and everything in its place," the less time is wasted looking for tools that "were just there a minute ago" on a cluttered workspace. I have a rolling Kennedy machinist's tool cart (expensive) and a tool cart from Harbor Freight (inexpensive) that serve me well. I can roll them next to my work table where they are easy to reach from my rolling secretary's chair which is also somewhat height adjustable. (The cheap ones at the office supply stores are great.) 
 
As for a table top, I would suggest the heavier the better for stability. A fire door (not a cheap luan doorskin hollow core interior door) on top of a couple of file cabinets works pretty well. A solid box than can be placed on top of it to raise the work surface to what I call "jeweler's bench height" at near eye level is very helpful for working on very small parts. (Jeweler's benches are very expensive, but a lot can be learned from checking them out in the online catalogs.) Adjustable ergonomic forearm rests are also quite handy for a lot of work, but the store bought ones aren't cheap and I've yet to get around to building a sufficiently adjustable one, so they are still on my bucket list. Arm rests provide stability when working on fine stuff "up in the air," like rigging. (see pic below.)  I also have a couple of hard pressboard "semi-sacrificial" smaller table tops that sit on top of my work benches. I can cut them up and not mind if they get covered in paint and glue drips and other grunge. These have one inch rails across the back and sides to keep stuff from rolling off of them. They're very handy for keeping small parts corralled. 
 
I screw ferrous metal strips to the underside of the front edges of my benches where I do small work. I have a work apron into the hem of which I've sewn rare earth magnets. I stick the hem of my apron to the underside of the bench with the magnets when I sit down to work, creating a cloth "net" which often catches that little part that gets dropped and tries to disappear on the floor forever. It saves lots of time and aggravation! It also catches a lot of chips and junk that you'd otherwise be sweeping up at the end of a work session. Finally, I always install outlet strips on the front of work benches so that corded hand tools can be plugged in and used without the cords stretching over the table top from the wall behind the bench. That leaves the workspace clear and avoids disasters when the cord and the model collide.
 
Below: Harbor Freight rolling tool chest. They come in various configurations. This is the cheapest model at a couple of hundred bucks or less on sale or with a coupon. I attach magnetic strip tool holders and magnetic paper towel holders to them as well. HF sells the paper towel holders for around fifteen bucks and the magnetic tool holders are five bucks a piece.  https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/u-s-general-tool-storage/tool-carts/30-in-4-drawer-tech-cart-black-64818.html 

Adjustable ergonomic forearm supports. Costly at around $90 each. I'd love to have a couple for doing that close-in rigging work in the top hamper. For modeling, I'd be looking for ones that have more reach than the one pictured, though.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/175132691344?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=175132691344&targetid=4581183927179149&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179149&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=c26ea7e8f632134640c7c56cabf27b90
 
 
 
 

Sad news indeed. Nothing I can say will much matter. I can only imagine the pain you and yours are working through right now. 
 

To be continued。。。
 

Sad news indeed. Nothing I can say will much matter. I can only imagine the pain you and yours are working through right now. 
 

A lot depends upon your individual preferences and the limitations of your location. Some of us have a lot of room to spread out and, most, it seems, don't. Then there's the size of the models you build, which dictates the amount of table top you need. My preference is for a relatively small primary work table and however many rolling tool carts I need to hold tools and materials. The more tools you can "have a place for and everything in its place," the less time is wasted looking for tools that "were just there a minute ago" on a cluttered workspace. I have a rolling Kennedy machinist's tool cart (expensive) and a tool cart from Harbor Freight (inexpensive) that serve me well. I can roll them next to my work table where they are easy to reach from my rolling secretary's chair which is also somewhat height adjustable. (The cheap ones at the office supply stores are great.) 
 
As for a table top, I would suggest the heavier the better for stability. A fire door (not a cheap luan doorskin hollow core interior door) on top of a couple of file cabinets works pretty well. A solid box than can be placed on top of it to raise the work surface to what I call "jeweler's bench height" at near eye level is very helpful for working on very small parts. (Jeweler's benches are very expensive, but a lot can be learned from checking them out in the online catalogs.) Adjustable ergonomic forearm rests are also quite handy for a lot of work, but the store bought ones aren't cheap and I've yet to get around to building a sufficiently adjustable one, so they are still on my bucket list. Arm rests provide stability when working on fine stuff "up in the air," like rigging. (see pic below.)  I also have a couple of hard pressboard "semi-sacrificial" smaller table tops that sit on top of my work benches. I can cut them up and not mind if they get covered in paint and glue drips and other grunge. These have one inch rails across the back and sides to keep stuff from rolling off of them. They're very handy for keeping small parts corralled. 
 
I screw ferrous metal strips to the underside of the front edges of my benches where I do small work. I have a work apron into the hem of which I've sewn rare earth magnets. I stick the hem of my apron to the underside of the bench with the magnets when I sit down to work, creating a cloth "net" which often catches that little part that gets dropped and tries to disappear on the floor forever. It saves lots of time and aggravation! It also catches a lot of chips and junk that you'd otherwise be sweeping up at the end of a work session. Finally, I always install outlet strips on the front of work benches so that corded hand tools can be plugged in and used without the cords stretching over the table top from the wall behind the bench. That leaves the workspace clear and avoids disasters when the cord and the model collide.
 
Below: Harbor Freight rolling tool chest. They come in various configurations. This is the cheapest model at a couple of hundred bucks or less on sale or with a coupon. I attach magnetic strip tool holders and magnetic paper towel holders to them as well. HF sells the paper towel holders for around fifteen bucks and the magnetic tool holders are five bucks a piece.  https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/u-s-general-tool-storage/tool-carts/30-in-4-drawer-tech-cart-black-64818.html 

Adjustable ergonomic forearm supports. Costly at around $90 each. I'd love to have a couple for doing that close-in rigging work in the top hamper. For modeling, I'd be looking for ones that have more reach than the one pictured, though.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/175132691344?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=175132691344&targetid=4581183927179149&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179149&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=c26ea7e8f632134640c7c56cabf27b90
 
 
 
 

A lot depends upon your individual preferences and the limitations of your location. Some of us have a lot of room to spread out and, most, it seems, don't. Then there's the size of the models you build, which dictates the amount of table top you need. My preference is for a relatively small primary work table and however many rolling tool carts I need to hold tools and materials. The more tools you can "have a place for and everything in its place," the less time is wasted looking for tools that "were just there a minute ago" on a cluttered workspace. I have a rolling Kennedy machinist's tool cart (expensive) and a tool cart from Harbor Freight (inexpensive) that serve me well. I can roll them next to my work table where they are easy to reach from my rolling secretary's chair which is also somewhat height adjustable. (The cheap ones at the office supply stores are great.) 
 
As for a table top, I would suggest the heavier the better for stability. A fire door (not a cheap luan doorskin hollow core interior door) on top of a couple of file cabinets works pretty well. A solid box than can be placed on top of it to raise the work surface to what I call "jeweler's bench height" at near eye level is very helpful for working on very small parts. (Jeweler's benches are very expensive, but a lot can be learned from checking them out in the online catalogs.) Adjustable ergonomic forearm rests are also quite handy for a lot of work, but the store bought ones aren't cheap and I've yet to get around to building a sufficiently adjustable one, so they are still on my bucket list. Arm rests provide stability when working on fine stuff "up in the air," like rigging. (see pic below.)  I also have a couple of hard pressboard "semi-sacrificial" smaller table tops that sit on top of my work benches. I can cut them up and not mind if they get covered in paint and glue drips and other grunge. These have one inch rails across the back and sides to keep stuff from rolling off of them. They're very handy for keeping small parts corralled. 
 
I screw ferrous metal strips to the underside of the front edges of my benches where I do small work. I have a work apron into the hem of which I've sewn rare earth magnets. I stick the hem of my apron to the underside of the bench with the magnets when I sit down to work, creating a cloth "net" which often catches that little part that gets dropped and tries to disappear on the floor forever. It saves lots of time and aggravation! It also catches a lot of chips and junk that you'd otherwise be sweeping up at the end of a work session. Finally, I always install outlet strips on the front of work benches so that corded hand tools can be plugged in and used without the cords stretching over the table top from the wall behind the bench. That leaves the workspace clear and avoids disasters when the cord and the model collide.
 
Below: Harbor Freight rolling tool chest. They come in various configurations. This is the cheapest model at a couple of hundred bucks or less on sale or with a coupon. I attach magnetic strip tool holders and magnetic paper towel holders to them as well. HF sells the paper towel holders for around fifteen bucks and the magnetic tool holders are five bucks a piece.  https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/u-s-general-tool-storage/tool-carts/30-in-4-drawer-tech-cart-black-64818.html 

Adjustable ergonomic forearm supports. Costly at around $90 each. I'd love to have a couple for doing that close-in rigging work in the top hamper. For modeling, I'd be looking for ones that have more reach than the one pictured, though.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/175132691344?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=175132691344&targetid=4581183927179149&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179149&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=c26ea7e8f632134640c7c56cabf27b90
 
 
 
 

As large a surface as you can comfortably fit in. You can never have too much bench space!

Two 2-drawer metal file cabinets and a 30" wide lauan door.
 

I would personally recommend Vanguard Models’s Cutter HMS Alert or one of their fishing boats for a good starter kit.  

The gentleman who owns the company and designs the kits, Chris Watton, is a member of this forum.
 
His kits are top notch.  The instructions are phenomenal.

A few recommendations:
 
I don't know much about the Albatros kit in particular, but it is a Mantua product, and they aren't one of the first names to come up in discussions about contenders in the "Best Kit Instructions" category. Starter tool combos have both their benefits and drawbacks. If you have zero tools to start with, then they're of course better than nothing. OTOH, many modelers, myself included, have quickly discovered after purchasing such tool sets that some tools get used a lot while others are rarely used, if ever. For that reason, some will argue in favor of a "go slow and buy only what you need" approach. Starter tool combos typically don't include tools that modelers often find indispensable once they really get into the hobby, such as rigging tools, plank bending irons, planking clamps, rotary tools, proportional dividers, etc. etc. Since you will be packing stuff into a relatively remote location and are taking on a project that may take you months to complete, you might want to think about how portable your project will be. A fully rigged ship model, even if still incomplete, is a bit fragile and thus a pain to move. For your situation, i.e. a new modeler with no experience and working remotely, I would think seriously about a less demanding project that is better suited for beginning modelers. The new Shipwright Series from Model Shipways fits this description, as do the older kits from Midwest Products that are currently out of production but still available on eBay. BlueJacket Shipcrafters also has a line of beginner kits. These kits typically spell out exactly what tools are needed to finish the kit, which eliminates guess work. Grab a kit well in advance of your planned departure date, study the plans and instructions, and get your tools and materials together before you go -- you don't want to be sitting in the middle of nowhere when you realize that you forget to pack some essential tool or bottle of glue.
 
Be sure to start a build log once you get your project started and include some pics of the view from your tower!
 
Cheers!