Bob Cleek

The idea is that the solder fills any gab between the wire and the slot, so silver soldering may not be ideal and one may actually burn away thin wires …

I'm going out on a limb here because I haven't actually tried this. It's purely theory at this point, but it's something I anticipate attempting when I'm next faced with having to make a bunch of really small blocks.
 
I think it may be possible to make quite small blocks out of oven-hardening plasticine modeling clay, such as FIMO. A mold could be made to form the blocks to any shape desired. When the oven-hardening FIMO is "baked" at 230 degrees Fahrenheit  it hardens. (There's also an "air hardening" FIMO, but I believe the oven-hardening stuff is stronger. Through holes in the blocks could be formed using a suitable diameter needle or awl. Metal wire eyes and bails could be permanently inserted in the soft FIMO before hardening, if desired. Basically, we're talking about FIMO beads that are shaped like blocks. 
 
It's a slow Saturday morning, so my creative juices are overflowing, but this is one approach I've been playing around with for some time. Imagine a pliers with block shapes in its faces, sort of like an old-fashioned round ball bullet mold. Quite a few blocks could be molded in short order.
 
I don't have any idea of the archival qualities of oven-hardened FIMO, but we have a few pieces around the house that were done with it by friends and they seem to have held up very well over the years.
 
If anybody's tried this, I'd welcome hearing of their experiences.

Actually, there's another ship modeling forum on the internet that's infamous for ignoring intellectual property rights. Let's not go there. Keep it real.  

Actually, there's another ship modeling forum on the internet that's infamous for ignoring intellectual property rights. Let's not go there. Keep it real.  

Tinning and fluxing the untinned part may work with conventional heat alone. However, it sounds like you were using regular "soft solder" and too much of it. It's my guess you'd avoid the problem described by silver soldering the parts using flux, a speck of silver solder, (or silver solder paste) and a torch. The solder joint should be practically invisible if you're careful applying the flux (or silver solder paste.) This will also provide a much stronger joint. A resistance soldering unit can replace the torch if one prefers. They have their advantages. at a price. The "blob" was a "materials and technique" issue, I'd expect.

Good idea mounting the rod eccentrically to lower the sheave between the block faces.
 
While Wingrove's form tool reduces the number of cuts in half, if one sets a stop on their cross-slide, repetitive single cuts aren't that much more work. His form tool does permit exact repetitive spacing between the blocks on the rod, though. Perhaps it may be possible to mount two cutting tools side by side with a spacer shim between them and replicate Wingrove's cutting tool. Wingrove's book has a number of such cutting tools for things like cannon and belaying pins but those custom cutting tools are easier said than done, particularly in tiny sizes! It must be remembered that his forte was metal automobile models. He was a master miniature metal machinist.
 
It would seem internally stropped blocks can be made relatively easily by soldering a bent wire bail at the top and/or bottom of the block body. 

These ought to get you "squared away" for your build. They are all inexpensive enough that you should be able to cover them out of "pocket money" and she'll never notice it. If the packages arriving may pose a problem, have them shipped to a friend. 
 
Grizzly H2993 Machinist's Square Set, 4-Piece - - Amazon.com 2", 3", 4", and 6" squares set.  May be used in conjunction with each other. Essential for squaring in tight spaces. $28.45
 

 
 
 
12'' Adjustable Sliding Combination Square Ruler&Protractor Level Measure Set | eBay Full featured combination square, protractor, center finder, bubble level, and 12" steel rule/straightedge (useful for cutting with a hobby knife as well as measuring.) $15.56
 

Thin-Beam Square (micromark.com) Invaluable for cutting thin stock, particularly sheet stock. $19.95 from MicroMark, but if you sign up for their email catalog advertisements, these are one of their "loss leaders" when they have sales and can be had for half price on sale. Train Buddy regularly sells the same square for $17.39. Thin-Beam Square - Train Buddy™ but, when comparison shopping, don't forget to factor in the shipping to the total cost.

Actually, there's another ship modeling forum on the internet that's infamous for ignoring intellectual property rights. Let's not go there. Keep it real.  

Actually, there's another ship modeling forum on the internet that's infamous for ignoring intellectual property rights. Let's not go there. Keep it real.  

Second Page
 

Actually, there's another ship modeling forum on the internet that's infamous for ignoring intellectual property rights. Let's not go there. Keep it real.  

Brian,
 
Another tip.  On a limited budget buy tools that do double duty.  Instead of buying a small engineer’s square buy a decent quality combination square, the kind with the sliding leg.  This will be useful for other things.
 
Roger

Fair use is several paragraphs from a book or article or a drawing from a book or article.  Showing part of a plan is fair use, duplicating a set of plans isn't.   Copying an entire book is not fair use under any circumstances.  In any case when using any material under fair use the source of the information must be noted.
 
Read the information on this in the Guidelines mentioned here last night - the rules for MSW are clearly spelled out there.

Perhaps it would be useful to check with the NRG's copyright attorney. Don't go by me, but I believe that works which did not carry the copyright notice on the document (e.g. (C) or "copyright" with the date and name of the claimant) before April 30, 1989 are not copyrighted.  For works first published on or after March 1, 1989, use of the copyright notice is optional. Before March 1, 1989, the use of the notice was mandatory on all published works. These documents were found in the 1960's without a copyright notice on them, so are older than March 1, 1989 and, without a copyright notice would not be copyrighted, or so it would seem. Better to ask your attorney so you can sue your attorney if a copyright holder sues the NRG, but just sayin'.

Perhaps it would be useful to check with the NRG's copyright attorney. Don't go by me, but I believe that works which did not carry the copyright notice on the document (e.g. (C) or "copyright" with the date and name of the claimant) before April 30, 1989 are not copyrighted.  For works first published on or after March 1, 1989, use of the copyright notice is optional. Before March 1, 1989, the use of the notice was mandatory on all published works. These documents were found in the 1960's without a copyright notice on them, so are older than March 1, 1989 and, without a copyright notice would not be copyrighted, or so it would seem. Better to ask your attorney so you can sue your attorney if a copyright holder sues the NRG, but just sayin'.

Perhaps it would be useful to check with the NRG's copyright attorney. Don't go by me, but I believe that works which did not carry the copyright notice on the document (e.g. (C) or "copyright" with the date and name of the claimant) before April 30, 1989 are not copyrighted.  For works first published on or after March 1, 1989, use of the copyright notice is optional. Before March 1, 1989, the use of the notice was mandatory on all published works. These documents were found in the 1960's without a copyright notice on them, so are older than March 1, 1989 and, without a copyright notice would not be copyrighted, or so it would seem. Better to ask your attorney so you can sue your attorney if a copyright holder sues the NRG, but just sayin'.

Perhaps it would be useful to check with the NRG's copyright attorney. Don't go by me, but I believe that works which did not carry the copyright notice on the document (e.g. (C) or "copyright" with the date and name of the claimant) before April 30, 1989 are not copyrighted.  For works first published on or after March 1, 1989, use of the copyright notice is optional. Before March 1, 1989, the use of the notice was mandatory on all published works. These documents were found in the 1960's without a copyright notice on them, so are older than March 1, 1989 and, without a copyright notice would not be copyrighted, or so it would seem. Better to ask your attorney so you can sue your attorney if a copyright holder sues the NRG, but just sayin'.

I'm not sure if by this is indicated that your are carving the workpiece while holding it in your hand. If so, it is far better to secure the workpiece solidly and then use both hands to control the carving tool. Two hands are better than one and the Kevlar gloves aren't as necessary. Maybe this is a no-brainer, but I've seen guys trying to do small carving when holding the piece in their hand and in that instance, yes, Kevlar gloves are highly advisable! Two hands on the cutting tool also makes for far more steady and precise cuts. A jeweler's vise of some sort which can be held firmly in a larger vise to hold small parts securely should be part of any modeler's tool kit. Fortunately, they are inexpensive, so buy the best professional model you can find. Cheap Chinese knock-offs abound!
 

 
This style of jeweler's vise is also very good for pulling wire through a draw plate. The serrations on the jaws are sized to hold various gauges of wire.
 

 
The head of these jewelers' peg clamps screws off so it can be mounted in a bench vise instead of being held in the hand. It will hold all sorts of shaped pieces by moving the pegs around as needed.
 

 
This Stanley portable bench vise is probably the best of its type on the market. It can be moved so the workpiece is presented at any angle.
 

@amateur
The drawing shows it is 8 sided. Wierd looking 8 sided so I'm doing a regular 8 sided. 
I am working on two attempts, one is where I will do it in 3 pieces and gluing them together and one is doing it in one piece, again. 

 
 
@Bob Cleek
Using a little vice bolted to a Dremel drill stand clamped to the table. I would not attempt holding it in my hand. 

 
 
@allanyed 
Allen, 
Thanks for the advice on the wood, I'll remember that next time when I look in my stash. 
Not really Kevlar but a fillet glove. 

 
Yes, you lose the feel of the wood and the wood slides a bit. I just wished the had little rubber grips and they may make something like it. The glove has protected my hand several times from a knife. It is cut-resistant NOT cut proof or puncture resistant. 
 
Marcus 

I've recently come to realize how important it is that "Torque is good. Speed is not so good." It's not just the burning issue with sanding, but it applies in all things. High speed micro-motors have become very popular in recent years. Their small size offers advantages, particularly in terms of battery powered tools, as does their lower price in some instances, but high speed cutting tools are much more difficult to control and a slip that ruins a workpiece is much more likely to occur. There are lots of cute 12 VAC cutting tools on the market now that will easily stall out if you try to hog through hard wood. They're made for cutting balsa and basswood and that's about it. While manufacturers replace torque with speed, it's not an even trade. A lot is lost in the translation.
 
Another problem with high speed electric motors is that if you slow them down with a rheostat speed controller, you don't get any corresponding increase in torque. You pretty much have to get them spinning at high speed to get much done with them in any case.
 
This is most apparent if one compares steam engines with internal combustion engines. A 5 HP steam engine will drive a 25' displacement hull at hull speed turning a large propeller slowly with its high torque. It takes a 25 HP low torque gas or diesel engine to do the same spinning a small propeller at high speed. The steam engine will last virtually forever with far less maintenance. The gas or diesel engine will wear out in relatively short order and require far more maintenance until it does. There's no free lunch.

3M makes the right tool for that job: Feathering Disc Adhesive. The 3M stuff is relatively expensive. Less expensive abrasive disc adhesives are on the market. Disc adhesive permits the easier removal of worn out discs than rubber cement, although the two may appear the same. One application of the disc adhesive will permit removing a used disc and replacing it with another without adding more adhesive for a few discs before more adhesive needs to be added. It cleans off the surface easily with acetone, or by rolling it off by hand. Sold in auto body and fender repair supply stores or on line. Here, again, the Byrnes machine has the advantage in that  less expensive cut abrasive sheets in standard sizes can be used and no adhesive is required. The savings over purchasing proprietary abrasive belts is another advantage of the Byrnes thickness sander.
 

I'm not sure if by this is indicated that your are carving the workpiece while holding it in your hand. If so, it is far better to secure the workpiece solidly and then use both hands to control the carving tool. Two hands are better than one and the Kevlar gloves aren't as necessary. Maybe this is a no-brainer, but I've seen guys trying to do small carving when holding the piece in their hand and in that instance, yes, Kevlar gloves are highly advisable! Two hands on the cutting tool also makes for far more steady and precise cuts. A jeweler's vise of some sort which can be held firmly in a larger vise to hold small parts securely should be part of any modeler's tool kit. Fortunately, they are inexpensive, so buy the best professional model you can find. Cheap Chinese knock-offs abound!
 

 
This style of jeweler's vise is also very good for pulling wire through a draw plate. The serrations on the jaws are sized to hold various gauges of wire.
 

 
The head of these jewelers' peg clamps screws off so it can be mounted in a bench vise instead of being held in the hand. It will hold all sorts of shaped pieces by moving the pegs around as needed.
 

 
This Stanley portable bench vise is probably the best of its type on the market. It can be moved so the workpiece is presented at any angle.
 

I think your first effort is quite promising. "If at first your don't succeed, try, try again." as the saying goes.
 
I'd suggest that you try making up the "square" shape by taking one piece with the smaller dimensions and then gluing "cheeks" onto the middle of that to yield a larger square section for the larger diameter of the middle of the windlass. Then work the thinner ends and the thicker middle section down to the finished octagonal shapes. That might be a bit easier to work a smooth transition between the thicker middle and the thinner ends. Sharp tools and thinner cuts are the trick. Sneak up on the shape. Don't try to get it perfect with large "bites."
 
Other than that, I think you've got the approach down pretty well. Walnut may or may not be easy to work, depending upon the grain and hardness of the particular piece of walnut you are working. If it works for you, go for it. 

I've recently come to realize how important it is that "Torque is good. Speed is not so good." It's not just the burning issue with sanding, but it applies in all things. High speed micro-motors have become very popular in recent years. Their small size offers advantages, particularly in terms of battery powered tools, as does their lower price in some instances, but high speed cutting tools are much more difficult to control and a slip that ruins a workpiece is much more likely to occur. There are lots of cute 12 VAC cutting tools on the market now that will easily stall out if you try to hog through hard wood. They're made for cutting balsa and basswood and that's about it. While manufacturers replace torque with speed, it's not an even trade. A lot is lost in the translation.
 
Another problem with high speed electric motors is that if you slow them down with a rheostat speed controller, you don't get any corresponding increase in torque. You pretty much have to get them spinning at high speed to get much done with them in any case.
 
This is most apparent if one compares steam engines with internal combustion engines. A 5 HP steam engine will drive a 25' displacement hull at hull speed turning a large propeller slowly with its high torque. It takes a 25 HP low torque gas or diesel engine to do the same spinning a small propeller at high speed. The steam engine will last virtually forever with far less maintenance. The gas or diesel engine will wear out in relatively short order and require far more maintenance until it does. There's no free lunch.

@Gregory
I'll take a good look at Chuck"s windlass. I like the idea that the slats with the holes are glued on. One can make them more accurate. 
 
@Bob Cleek
You should see my box of tried parts. Some items have been done several times. Practice, practice is how it gets better and that item will only have to be done once on the next ship. 
 
You said it "thinner cuts", I need to control my movements better. I'm using the softer parts of the walnut. Sharp tools is what I use and wearing kevlar gloves so my fingers are protected. 
 
Marcus