Bob Cleek

That is correct. The timber head is the carved indentation at the top. The purpose of the indentation is to stop the hitched rope from sliding up or down the timber head, thereby preventing inadvertent slacking or unhitching. 
On some timber heads the multiple sheaves at the base are actually what would be the lower block of a multi-part tackle.  If there are two separate lines belaying to the the timberhead, more than likely they are lines that would be worked at the same time and cast off together anyway.
 
BTW, the reason I differentiated between a sheave located directly below the belaying pin versus at the base of the timber head is because you would prefer to have your rope pass vertically, or nearly so, to the pin and not cross and therefore chafe against the shell of a fixed block or sheave in the rail.
 
Regards,

The sheave on deck permits a gang of seamen to haul on the line as it extends across the deck. Obviously, only one or two men at a time can pull a line down without a sheave because there isn't room for more to get a hold on the line. 
 
When the line is hauled through a deck sheave or turning block, the line is brought up to the front of pin rail and a half-twist is made in the line and cast over the pin and pulled tight. The remaining bitter end is coiled with the coil held in the left hand. When coiled, the right hand reaches through the middle of the coil and grasps the bitter end of the line where it comes off the pin and a a suitable length of line being made between the coil and the right hand, that length is pulled through the center of the coil and a half-twist made in it, which is thrown over the pin so that the coil is hung neatly from the pin. 
 
When line is let go, it is a simple matter to lift the hitch off the top of the pin and lay the coil on deck, then cast off the first half hitch on the pin, and the line will pay out neatly from the without kinking or fouling.
 
Many books and manuals will depict a method of taking multiple turns around a belaying pin before hitching the line to the pin. While there is a method of taking an initial turn before hitching in cases where it is feared the weight of the load may make it difficult to cast off a single hitch on the pin, in practice, it's not a problem that's often encountered, as a horizontal pull of the fall, (called "sweating the line") will make losening the single hitch easy enough if the size of the line and the size of the pin are properly matched. Unnecessary turns around pins, cleat, cavels, and posts are the hallmarks of sloppy seamanship. All belaying should be done in a uniform fashion, as well, since one crewmember may tie off and another let go. In a blow and a heavy sea in the middle of the night is no place to be trying to untie "black" knots tied by some lubber!

The sheave on deck permits a gang of seamen to haul on the line as it extends across the deck. Obviously, only one or two men at a time can pull a line down without a sheave because there isn't room for more to get a hold on the line. 
 
When the line is hauled through a deck sheave or turning block, the line is brought up to the front of pin rail and a half-twist is made in the line and cast over the pin and pulled tight. The remaining bitter end is coiled with the coil held in the left hand. When coiled, the right hand reaches through the middle of the coil and grasps the bitter end of the line where it comes off the pin and a a suitable length of line being made between the coil and the right hand, that length is pulled through the center of the coil and a half-twist made in it, which is thrown over the pin so that the coil is hung neatly from the pin. 
 
When line is let go, it is a simple matter to lift the hitch off the top of the pin and lay the coil on deck, then cast off the first half hitch on the pin, and the line will pay out neatly from the without kinking or fouling.
 
Many books and manuals will depict a method of taking multiple turns around a belaying pin before hitching the line to the pin. While there is a method of taking an initial turn before hitching in cases where it is feared the weight of the load may make it difficult to cast off a single hitch on the pin, in practice, it's not a problem that's often encountered, as a horizontal pull of the fall, (called "sweating the line") will make losening the single hitch easy enough if the size of the line and the size of the pin are properly matched. Unnecessary turns around pins, cleat, cavels, and posts are the hallmarks of sloppy seamanship. All belaying should be done in a uniform fashion, as well, since one crewmember may tie off and another let go. In a blow and a heavy sea in the middle of the night is no place to be trying to untie "black" knots tied by some lubber!

As a passing comment for the anally-inclined, it might be noted that eyebolts were never installed through metal mast bands. Neither were rings ever welded to metal mast bands. The "eye bolt through the mast band" is a modeler's shortcut, In actual practice, the purpose for a mast band (or boom band) is to provide attachment points to the mast which do not require boring holes in the mast which provide a way for fresh (rain) water to soak into the end-grain of the mast and promote concealed rot that can ultimately cost the loss of a spar under load.  The metal mast band is bedded and clamps tightly around the mast, and holds by that pressure. It is never screwed onto the mast.  Attachment points are formed by welding the "feet" of "U"-shaped metal rod to the band itself, providing a strong two-point attachment to the band, or by welding triangular plates on edge with a hole or holes drilled through the face of the plates to accept shackle pins. Eyebolts anywhere on a mast are not considered good prototype rigging practice. 

Hard to tell without a drawing.  Sounds like  the forward one is for the main sail tack which would first pass through a chesstree on the hull.   You would really do yourself a huge favor by getting a copy of Lees' Masting and Rigging or other time period appropriate book as these will help make sense of the many lines and associated items like the through-hull sheaves, fore tack blocks on the bumpkins, chesstrees, etc.   I really am not one to spend other people's money, but when it comes to rigging, at least one, good, time-appropriate, source is essential and worth the investment. 

Boy! Talk about a "the dog ate my homework" excuse! Just hot-wire the sucker until the switch arrives in the mail.  Twist the switch wires together and wrap some electrical tape around the joint, then plug it into a switched outlet. You can't just ignore your fan club that easily!    

Boy! Talk about a "the dog ate my homework" excuse! Just hot-wire the sucker until the switch arrives in the mail.  Twist the switch wires together and wrap some electrical tape around the joint, then plug it into a switched outlet. You can't just ignore your fan club that easily!    

You may find it convenient to get a Rogers drill bit stand to start with.  Then restock using bulk single size in 10's of the numbers that are getting use.

Boy! Talk about a "the dog ate my homework" excuse! Just hot-wire the sucker until the switch arrives in the mail.  Twist the switch wires together and wrap some electrical tape around the joint, then plug it into a switched outlet. You can't just ignore your fan club that easily!    

Boy! Talk about a "the dog ate my homework" excuse! Just hot-wire the sucker until the switch arrives in the mail.  Twist the switch wires together and wrap some electrical tape around the joint, then plug it into a switched outlet. You can't just ignore your fan club that easily!    

It appears that the bearers which hold the stretchers were cleverly designed so the "tails" could be cut to the length best suited to the length of the particular rower's legs. By the simple adjustment of the "stick" with the notch for the bearer at the end, the position of the stretcher could be adjusted relative to the position of the thwart. Might this be so? Do we know how these notched sticks were fastened to the boat's structure, if at all? Are they devised so they can be adjusted and set in place with a wedge or something like that? 

Care and pride certainly was more valued by tradesmen in the past, but I believe that more often than not what we see as embellishments mainly were intended to serve practical purposes. First and foremost, aboard any watercraft the occupants are continually subjected to the risk of trips and falls, particularly in heavy weather. and the rounding of corners serves to reduce the amount of injury caused by falling off balance against a sharp corner. A one inch half-round corner versus a sharp right angle can easily mean the difference between a lump on the head and a fractured skull. Coves routed beneath lips serve to channel water which otherwise would run down the flat face below an overhang and cause staining of the paintwork. Rowing thwarts are always beveled half round to prevent chafe to rowers' legs and bottoms. What may seem to us to be fancywork is really just form following function... the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century carved gingerbread being something else again, of course. That was all about the king's pride, not the workmen's.

Boy! Talk about a "the dog ate my homework" excuse! Just hot-wire the sucker until the switch arrives in the mail.  Twist the switch wires together and wrap some electrical tape around the joint, then plug it into a switched outlet. You can't just ignore your fan club that easily!    

Boy! Talk about a "the dog ate my homework" excuse! Just hot-wire the sucker until the switch arrives in the mail.  Twist the switch wires together and wrap some electrical tape around the joint, then plug it into a switched outlet. You can't just ignore your fan club that easily!    

Update: There will be a hiatus in the workshop, hopefully only for a few days. The switch on my Byrnes' saw failed - after only 14 years of hard work! Jim and Donna have sent out a replacement very promptly so it's in the USPS service - somewhere.... Until it arrives I can't cut more 1/64" leaves of wood for the boat's risers. Dommage.

Now that's an idea.....I never thought about.  Making many cutters from so many blade stock.   Cool idea Bob.  I'll stow that idea away for another day...since I'm finished with the stanchion project.
 
In retrospect, I made these all by hand...since the numbers where not too staggering.  Plus cutting and manipulation by hand was faster then if I had done this on my lather.  I could *feel* the cut and compensate for any issues with the wood grain...where as, on the lathe it is far less forgiving to such delicacies. 
 
As usual...thanks for the great advice.
 
Rob

It appears that the bearers which hold the stretchers were cleverly designed so the "tails" could be cut to the length best suited to the length of the particular rower's legs. By the simple adjustment of the "stick" with the notch for the bearer at the end, the position of the stretcher could be adjusted relative to the position of the thwart. Might this be so? Do we know how these notched sticks were fastened to the boat's structure, if at all? Are they devised so they can be adjusted and set in place with a wedge or something like that? 

Care and pride certainly was more valued by tradesmen in the past, but I believe that more often than not what we see as embellishments mainly were intended to serve practical purposes. First and foremost, aboard any watercraft the occupants are continually subjected to the risk of trips and falls, particularly in heavy weather. and the rounding of corners serves to reduce the amount of injury caused by falling off balance against a sharp corner. A one inch half-round corner versus a sharp right angle can easily mean the difference between a lump on the head and a fractured skull. Coves routed beneath lips serve to channel water which otherwise would run down the flat face below an overhang and cause staining of the paintwork. Rowing thwarts are always beveled half round to prevent chafe to rowers' legs and bottoms. What may seem to us to be fancywork is really just form following function... the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century carved gingerbread being something else again, of course. That was all about the king's pride, not the workmen's.

I hate buying new paints! Of course, that's probably because I remember Floquil paints and finishes.  
 
I learned how to paint growing up with cousins who ran a large painting and decorating company. That was a long while ago and I've been painting and varnishing full size boats and furniture for much of my life, together with ship models. I have to say I'm an unabashed Luddite. I believe much of the traditional techniques and materials remain the best option. While I strongly support environmental values, I'm dismayed that regulatory agencies so often "pick the low-hanging fruit" and restrict things like VOC's in paints and solvents, which contribute relatively little to envioronmental air pollution, while ignoring other widespread corporate industrial carbon omissions, often for no reason other than that they have a more powerful lobby. Thus we end up with paints and varnishes, or "coatings" as the industry now calls them, which last a third as long and probably have three times the carbon footprint to manufacture than do the old oil-based materials.
 
Living in California, I can't go to the paint store and buy real turpentine or paint thinner because their sale has been banned (except in very small bottles sold in art supply stores.) Luckly, I can still buy acetone, they tell me because it's sold as a "cleaner" and not a "coating," and I can buy Rustoleum oil paint because it's a "rust inhibitor, and not a "paint." (Surprisingly, the hardware stores sell five gallon drums of acetone! Who needs five gallons of acetone from a hardware store? Ask your local meth cook!) Oil paint can also be purchased in marine chandleries because "marine paint" is exempt from the prohibitions. Rattle cans can still be purchased, but like booze, you have to be over 18 to buy them. It's getting pretty crazy and I've had to devise work-arounds, but it's doable. (It's not against the law to possess paint thinner. It's just a crime to sell it.)
 
I use Zinsser white shellac for sealing bare wood (and also for sealing rigging knots.) It's thinned with denatured alcohol.
I use Interlux marine sanding base coat or an equivalent for fairing surfaces, such as topsides.
I use Interlux surfacing putty or an equivalent for heavier fairing of surfaces and such.
I use quality artists' oils in basic colors to paint models, together with the appropriate additives to condtion them to taste for brushing or spraying at the  degree of drying time and the level of gloss or matt I desire.
 
In my opinion, most of today's modeling-specific paints and other finishes are extremely expensive and not particularly easy to use. Their chemistry is complex and there are often incompatibilities between the different brands. The manufacturers take advantage of the fact that their customers don't know how to condition paint or mix colors, hence, we see varieties sold "for brushing" and others "for spraying!" I will concede that where exact color matching is essential, as with modern naval and armor models, pre-mixed paints may offer an advantage in mixing colors (if you trust the paint company's version of "olive drab" and "field gray" as of a certain date during WWII !) That notwithstanding, while I've obtained good results with acrylics, they aren't near the quality of traditional oil-based paints, which also will not raise the grain on bare wood. I've found the pigment size on quality artist's oils is entirely suitable for modeling detail. They are easy to condition for whatever application method one desires. They thin with common solvents and flow control is a function of how much linseed oil one wishes to add. Drying time can be accelerated using Japan drier and the finish controlled to the user's taste with flattening additives or clear matt overcoating. Many pigments can be quite expensive and the quality one is looking for will be reflected in tubed artists' oils, but with oils you aren't paying for packaging in minute amounts, nor is there any need to buy dozens of seven or eight dollar one ounce bottles of different colors. Six or eight tubes of basic primary and secondary colors should enable the ship modeler to pretty much mix any color they'd wish and tubed artists' oils have far less tendency to "dry up" in the tube. How many times have barely used bottled model paints been thrown out because they went bad or dried up in the bottle, no matter how much care was exercised in replacing the screw caps?
 
Interestingly, the "gaming figure" modelers who employ a wide range of colors seem to be the first of the modeling fraternity who have discovered this fact and are going over to artists' oils in increasing numbers if their YouTube posts are any indication. I encourage anybody to try artist's oils (using them correctly) and see if they don't find them a better alternative. It's a matter of taste and opinion, but, as the saying goes, "Try it. You may like it."
 
 

I hate buying new paints! Of course, that's probably because I remember Floquil paints and finishes.  
 
I learned how to paint growing up with cousins who ran a large painting and decorating company. That was a long while ago and I've been painting and varnishing full size boats and furniture for much of my life, together with ship models. I have to say I'm an unabashed Luddite. I believe much of the traditional techniques and materials remain the best option. While I strongly support environmental values, I'm dismayed that regulatory agencies so often "pick the low-hanging fruit" and restrict things like VOC's in paints and solvents, which contribute relatively little to envioronmental air pollution, while ignoring other widespread corporate industrial carbon omissions, often for no reason other than that they have a more powerful lobby. Thus we end up with paints and varnishes, or "coatings" as the industry now calls them, which last a third as long and probably have three times the carbon footprint to manufacture than do the old oil-based materials.
 
Living in California, I can't go to the paint store and buy real turpentine or paint thinner because their sale has been banned (except in very small bottles sold in art supply stores.) Luckly, I can still buy acetone, they tell me because it's sold as a "cleaner" and not a "coating," and I can buy Rustoleum oil paint because it's a "rust inhibitor, and not a "paint." (Surprisingly, the hardware stores sell five gallon drums of acetone! Who needs five gallons of acetone from a hardware store? Ask your local meth cook!) Oil paint can also be purchased in marine chandleries because "marine paint" is exempt from the prohibitions. Rattle cans can still be purchased, but like booze, you have to be over 18 to buy them. It's getting pretty crazy and I've had to devise work-arounds, but it's doable. (It's not against the law to possess paint thinner. It's just a crime to sell it.)
 
I use Zinsser white shellac for sealing bare wood (and also for sealing rigging knots.) It's thinned with denatured alcohol.
I use Interlux marine sanding base coat or an equivalent for fairing surfaces, such as topsides.
I use Interlux surfacing putty or an equivalent for heavier fairing of surfaces and such.
I use quality artists' oils in basic colors to paint models, together with the appropriate additives to condtion them to taste for brushing or spraying at the  degree of drying time and the level of gloss or matt I desire.
 
In my opinion, most of today's modeling-specific paints and other finishes are extremely expensive and not particularly easy to use. Their chemistry is complex and there are often incompatibilities between the different brands. The manufacturers take advantage of the fact that their customers don't know how to condition paint or mix colors, hence, we see varieties sold "for brushing" and others "for spraying!" I will concede that where exact color matching is essential, as with modern naval and armor models, pre-mixed paints may offer an advantage in mixing colors (if you trust the paint company's version of "olive drab" and "field gray" as of a certain date during WWII !) That notwithstanding, while I've obtained good results with acrylics, they aren't near the quality of traditional oil-based paints, which also will not raise the grain on bare wood. I've found the pigment size on quality artist's oils is entirely suitable for modeling detail. They are easy to condition for whatever application method one desires. They thin with common solvents and flow control is a function of how much linseed oil one wishes to add. Drying time can be accelerated using Japan drier and the finish controlled to the user's taste with flattening additives or clear matt overcoating. Many pigments can be quite expensive and the quality one is looking for will be reflected in tubed artists' oils, but with oils you aren't paying for packaging in minute amounts, nor is there any need to buy dozens of seven or eight dollar one ounce bottles of different colors. Six or eight tubes of basic primary and secondary colors should enable the ship modeler to pretty much mix any color they'd wish and tubed artists' oils have far less tendency to "dry up" in the tube. How many times have barely used bottled model paints been thrown out because they went bad or dried up in the bottle, no matter how much care was exercised in replacing the screw caps?
 
Interestingly, the "gaming figure" modelers who employ a wide range of colors seem to be the first of the modeling fraternity who have discovered this fact and are going over to artists' oils in increasing numbers if their YouTube posts are any indication. I encourage anybody to try artist's oils (using them correctly) and see if they don't find them a better alternative. It's a matter of taste and opinion, but, as the saying goes, "Try it. You may like it."
 
 

It appears that the bearers which hold the stretchers were cleverly designed so the "tails" could be cut to the length best suited to the length of the particular rower's legs. By the simple adjustment of the "stick" with the notch for the bearer at the end, the position of the stretcher could be adjusted relative to the position of the thwart. Might this be so? Do we know how these notched sticks were fastened to the boat's structure, if at all? Are they devised so they can be adjusted and set in place with a wedge or something like that? 

Care and pride certainly was more valued by tradesmen in the past, but I believe that more often than not what we see as embellishments mainly were intended to serve practical purposes. First and foremost, aboard any watercraft the occupants are continually subjected to the risk of trips and falls, particularly in heavy weather. and the rounding of corners serves to reduce the amount of injury caused by falling off balance against a sharp corner. A one inch half-round corner versus a sharp right angle can easily mean the difference between a lump on the head and a fractured skull. Coves routed beneath lips serve to channel water which otherwise would run down the flat face below an overhang and cause staining of the paintwork. Rowing thwarts are always beveled half round to prevent chafe to rowers' legs and bottoms. What may seem to us to be fancywork is really just form following function... the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century carved gingerbread being something else again, of course. That was all about the king's pride, not the workmen's.

It appears that the bearers which hold the stretchers were cleverly designed so the "tails" could be cut to the length best suited to the length of the particular rower's legs. By the simple adjustment of the "stick" with the notch for the bearer at the end, the position of the stretcher could be adjusted relative to the position of the thwart. Might this be so? Do we know how these notched sticks were fastened to the boat's structure, if at all? Are they devised so they can be adjusted and set in place with a wedge or something like that? 

Care and pride certainly was more valued by tradesmen in the past, but I believe that more often than not what we see as embellishments mainly were intended to serve practical purposes. First and foremost, aboard any watercraft the occupants are continually subjected to the risk of trips and falls, particularly in heavy weather. and the rounding of corners serves to reduce the amount of injury caused by falling off balance against a sharp corner. A one inch half-round corner versus a sharp right angle can easily mean the difference between a lump on the head and a fractured skull. Coves routed beneath lips serve to channel water which otherwise would run down the flat face below an overhang and cause staining of the paintwork. Rowing thwarts are always beveled half round to prevent chafe to rowers' legs and bottoms. What may seem to us to be fancywork is really just form following function... the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century carved gingerbread being something else again, of course. That was all about the king's pride, not the workmen's.

Today's update be more 'tell' than 'show'. The stretchers for the feet of the rowers are located in notches along the outer sides of the footboards (see photo, courtesy Eberhard). These are rather small items. Each is under ¾" long and the 'tails' 1/64" square. 
 
I prepared a length of Castello and cut off ¾" long pieces. These were sandwiched together on edge using PVA glue. (Rubber cement does not have sufficient shear strength for milling operations.) The laminated pieces were then glued to a carrier piece of wood. Held in a machine vise, the profile was carefully machined on the mill. The assembly was then immersed in isopropanol for 24 hours to separate the individual pieces. 
 
While this was soaking, a length of wood was prepared for the stretchers. The upper edges of these are chamfered at 45 degrees, as can be seen in the phooto.