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Bob Cleek
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Sasha131 in Tools from Jeweller's Supply Stores
Oh yeah! Definitely! Professional jewelry supply houses, and medical and dental instrument supply houses are goldmines full of useful modeling tools and supplies, generally at higher quality and even at lower prices that the "hobby" online suppliers.
In the US: https://www.riogrande.com/category/tools-and-equipment
https://contenti.com/professional-jewelry-making-tool-kit
https://www.ottofrei.com/jewelry-tools-equipment
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Bob Cleek reacted to Some Idea in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
This is one of these solutions that seems good until things go wrong
1. You cut a thin strip of wood and the one side gets dragged down into the blade and busts through the tape seizing the saw.
2. The tape has drag that a metal surface doesn't. So your piece stops and your finger don't
3. This lulls you into thinking that your saw is set up correctly
I think that you have got away with things so far. If you have worked with power tools for a long period you will know just what a nasty habit they have of biting back just when you're not expecting it. I have so much respect for table saws that there is no way I would do this. Just make yourself a proper zero clearance insert and have done with it. Why even think about taking the risk.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Jaager in Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
Your blade is up too high.. I can see that having the edge of the blade closer to vertical has fewer teeth engaged, so there is less problem with filling the gullet, but with the crown at ~1/4" clearance -using a slower feed would work and protect you better.
OK - armchair theory about eliminating the danger of kickback:
If there is a Pine board on top of the billet and it has a second piece of Pine glued to it at the tail end that will sit behind the billet - push it - is also sitting on the saw table and is long enough - so long that when the billet is beyond the back edge of the blade, the blade is still inside the pusher piece.
The work is hidden - so that success can only be determined post cut - but there can be no kickback and fingers are safe.
translation:
Pine board = any wood that is low cost and has the needed dimensions to keep the blade enclosed.
billet = whatever stock is being sliced up.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Some Idea in Proud owner of a Dremmel drill stand
Hi Dave - A word of caution as I'm going to encourage you to spend some well earned money!!! Have a look on the Cooksongold website as they sell Foredom tools. I have just swapped over to these and got rid of all of my Dremel gear after this was recommended to me. I was very reluctant to be honest but the difference is like night and day. Loads more control with torque rather than speed and a really decent drill press too which suits our needs. I have a hand piece that accepts 1/4 diameter bits too. I wish I had bought this years ago as the amount of money I have spent on little bits here and there that turned out to be useless. Here's a picture of the drill press and the standard hand piece using a small Proxxon vice. Just another option for you that will stand the test of time.
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Bob Cleek reacted to wefalck in La Belle Poule 1765 by mtaylor - Scale 1:64 - POB - French Frigate from ANCRE plans
I don't want to be a heretic and it may not be the right place to discuss this, but why are people so crazy about tung-oil ? I can understand that it is used for say furniture or certain musical instruments, where apparently it is mixed with line-seed oil to reduce its brittleness. Somehow, applying an oily substance to a delicate item, such as a model, even an oxidating, i.e. drying, oil, does make me somewhat uncomfortable. Shellac or nitrocellulose-based varnishes seem to be 'cleaner' options.
There are no many light-fast dyes around, so dying wood should not be such a problem. In think in many cases dyes can be mixed to change the hue and diluted, if needed. This seems to be give more reproducible results.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in Proud owner of a Dremmel drill stand
Yes, that's a common complaint with the Dremel drill press.. All indications are that the flexion in the Dremel unit makes it a bit-breaker for the small size bits. I've found the Vanda-Lay Industry rotary tool drill press to be adequately solid, although for serious drilling I opt for my Unimat SL. I've just discovered the "Micro Fine Drill Mill Adaptor Miniature Quill." It's 1/2" shaft chucks into a full size drill press. It has a separate quill with a knurled grip that permits drilling with very small bits with fine control. I think I'm going to check it out.
https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Shank-JT0-Chuck-Manual-Control-Avoids-Breakage/dp/B06XZ4KJSV/ref=pd_lpo_469_img_1/138-4377185-5044154?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XZ4KJSV&pd_rd_r=4b546926-1697-465b-b65e-5ff710252f39&pd_rd_w=p7Mbu&pd_rd_wg=iFknW&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=FJQWZ5GFRGH7NZF6FP3Q&psc=1&refRID=FJQWZ5GFRGH7NZF6FP3Q
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Bob Cleek reacted to glbarlow in which table saw to get??
As most everyone says there is no saw but the Byrnes saw. He has zero clearance inserts very cheap, no reason to make one. He has a 220v version and many Europeans have one. He and his wife are a two person business. He can’t quickly respond to everyone, he spends most of his days making great saws.
The extended fence is a must, for me the micrometer I have and never use. I also haven’t needed the zero clearance insert I bought and have ripped and cut everything for my Cheerful without one. I had it in and took it off. Jim’s blade selections are the best there are for his saw. He carefully researched them. You don’t need a bunch of blades, the 30 kerf slitting blade is all I’ve used for Cheerful. Maybe a spare one of those. Plus the big one that comes with it.
You don’t need an adapter if you use his blades, which you should. I can’t imagine the need for a wider table. I’ve had my saw for 12 years and that need never came up.
The best accessory other than the extended fence and the extended mitre gauge rail is the sliding table. When I’m not ripping planks I use it a lot, it’s easy to put on and take off. I never knew I needed it until I got it. Cutting the hatch covers for Cheerful was a piece of cake with it.
It may cost more but it’s worth every cent. Mine has run faithfully for a long time. The slitting blade so far is the only “part” I’ve replaced.
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Bob Cleek reacted to bruce d in Need advice about buying a small milling machine (e.g. Proxxon MF70 / Sherline 5400)
What Bob said.
Also, since I'm here, there are a couple of specific points that might underline why I would steer you toward the Unimat SL.
First, it is exactly what a small workshop needs all rolled into one. It can be moved around easily. Around 90%+ of what you will need from a lathe/mill for a model ship build can be handled by a DB/SL with a milling column, appropriate cutting tools, a decent 3 jaw chuck and a tailstock chuck providing you have another way of cutting wood to size. The circular saw attachment works very well with a bit of practice but a dedicated saw is better so I hesitate to include it in the 'must-have' list. If you find you need further attachments, they are available.
Secondly, they are cheaper in the UK than North America. They hold their value also.
One last point: IMHO, to consider a CNC option seems almost like changing the subject. In practice, there would be such a steep learning curve that it would take you away from building the model. CNC is very popular with certain types of model engineers and quite often their background has exposed them to the dark art of setting up and programming but for most people it is hard work and does not always work out as planned.
Just my opinion, you will know what feels like the best for you.
HTH
Bruce 👍
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Jolley Roger in Need advice about buying a small milling machine (e.g. Proxxon MF70 / Sherline 5400)
Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it's size limitations. I doubt there's ever been a more versatile modeling machine ever made, although for more money I'd buy a dedicated Sieg or Sherline lathe and mill these days, if for no other reason than the ready availability of tooling.
See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=unimat&_sacat=0
http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jaynes/lathes/Unimat-SLs/Unimat-SL Pic Link Page.html
http://www.dirkfassbender.de/emco-unimat-sl.html
Lathe set-up with threading attachment:
Basic machine:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
Milling configuration:
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Need advice about buying a small milling machine (e.g. Proxxon MF70 / Sherline 5400)
Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it's size limitations. I doubt there's ever been a more versatile modeling machine ever made, although for more money I'd buy a dedicated Sieg or Sherline lathe and mill these days, if for no other reason than the ready availability of tooling.
See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=unimat&_sacat=0
http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jaynes/lathes/Unimat-SLs/Unimat-SL Pic Link Page.html
http://www.dirkfassbender.de/emco-unimat-sl.html
Lathe set-up with threading attachment:
Basic machine:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
Milling configuration:
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Ron Burns in Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
Yes, I believe it is a common problem. Whenever I catch flak for buying "another tool you'll never use," I retort that, "At last count, there were more than forty pairs of shoes in your closet, most of which you will never use." And the fight is on!
I've found the best way to get away with tool purchases is to tell them that the tools were a great deal and will be worth far more when I croak than now. It's the greed that gets 'em every time.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Need advice about buying a small milling machine (e.g. Proxxon MF70 / Sherline 5400)
Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it's size limitations. I doubt there's ever been a more versatile modeling machine ever made, although for more money I'd buy a dedicated Sieg or Sherline lathe and mill these days, if for no other reason than the ready availability of tooling.
See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=unimat&_sacat=0
http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jaynes/lathes/Unimat-SLs/Unimat-SL Pic Link Page.html
http://www.dirkfassbender.de/emco-unimat-sl.html
Lathe set-up with threading attachment:
Basic machine:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
Milling configuration:
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from bruce d in Need advice about buying a small milling machine (e.g. Proxxon MF70 / Sherline 5400)
Well, while we are on the subject of expensive machines, and because the most important requirement seems to be the ability to pick it up and put it on a shelf, one could consider the Unimat DB or SL lathe and mill machine. They are no longer made, but there are a lot of them on the used market and parts and tooling remain available, although some items, like threading attachments and complete collet sets are pricey. There are a lot of them on eBay, together with all the various attachments (jigsaw, table saw, planer, etc., etc.) They have a cult following. I love mine for what it is, given it's size limitations. I doubt there's ever been a more versatile modeling machine ever made, although for more money I'd buy a dedicated Sieg or Sherline lathe and mill these days, if for no other reason than the ready availability of tooling.
See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313&_nkw=unimat&_sacat=0
http://myplace.frontier.com/~steven.jaynes/lathes/Unimat-SLs/Unimat-SL Pic Link Page.html
http://www.dirkfassbender.de/emco-unimat-sl.html
Lathe set-up with threading attachment:
Basic machine:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/
Milling configuration:
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Bob Cleek reacted to Roger Pellett in A question about beveling frames
Charles Davis got his wooden shipbuilding experience in shipyards building ships during the World War I shipping crisis. These ships were built with regularly spaced double sistered frames (two layers). He copied this practice when he drew his ship model plans.
Dispite statements in his book about building models just like the real thing, his framing does not represent late Eighteenth Century Royal Navy Framing practice and his brig does not represent what Lexington probably looked like.
I once had a hard copy edition of Davis’s book. If I remember correctly the book included a set of his plans in a pocket.
Roger
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Bob Cleek reacted to Roger Pellett in Collet on spindle
My two cents worth:
You have said that the stub at the top of the picture is the collet. You have also said that the nut is loose.
Given these facts, it would seem that the flex tool shaft is jammed into the jaws of the collet. Hopefully, there a hole clear through the collet. If there is, clamp the nut in a vice. If you have a set of drift pins, find one that fits into the hole and tap the flex tool shaft out. A piece of steel or brass round bar stock would work just as well. Even a bolt will work. Just make sure that it is a sliding fit.
If there is no hole completely through the collet then I’m like your handle- No Idea.
Roger
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Bob Cleek reacted to bricklayer in Need advice about buying a small milling machine (e.g. Proxxon MF70 / Sherline 5400)
If someone gave me one of those Sixis or Aciera (watchmaker?)-machines, then I`d put it in a sealed showcase to protect it from dust and humidity,
I wouldn`t dare to touch it without wearing cotton gloves.
If I did any damage to such a machine while operating it, then I`d have seven sleepless nights in sequence.
I think that one shouldn`t recommend these swiss precision tools to a beginner.
Michael
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from thibaultron in Collet on spindle
Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench. Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from thibaultron in Collet on spindle
I'm not even able to visualize a "collet stuck on a drill spindle." A picture is worth a thousand words.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from bruce d in Collet on spindle
Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench. Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Collet on spindle
Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench. Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Collet on spindle
Sorry. I'm still not seeing it. Is the post sticking up out of the top the collet? A wild guess is that one of the knurled rings twists one way and the other the opposite way and that allows the nut to be turned, but I'm guessing. I cant see what the assembly is all about from the photo. It looks like the knurled rings are pretty well galled up already. It looks like "somebody" went at it with a pipe wrench. Somebody who's been there and done that with this unit will probably have the answer for you.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Collet on spindle
I'm not even able to visualize a "collet stuck on a drill spindle." A picture is worth a thousand words.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Collet on spindle
I'm not even able to visualize a "collet stuck on a drill spindle." A picture is worth a thousand words.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Proportional Dividers
If you have the time, it would be interesting to see how they did that!
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Proportional Dividers
If you have the time, it would be interesting to see how they did that!
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