Bob Cleek

So you guys are the ones responsible for the disappearance of all the antique boxwood rules and scales!  
 
Time was, one could scrounge around and amass a collection of traditional boxwood scales and a nice classic folding carpenter's rule without a lot of trouble. Then they started disappearing. I recalled someone said people were buying them because they wanted the boxwood they were made of. I was skeptical, but I'm not skeptical any longer. Realize that the boxwood rules and scales you're cutting up for modeling stock may well be worth a lot more than you think. Not so much plain old "rulers," but be aware of what you've got in your stash. Leave some for those of us who have a use for them.  
 

https://garrettwade.com/product/antique-architects-folding-rule
 
 
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904792
 

https://www.antiquesboutique.com/antique-barometers-instruments/set-of-architect-s-scale-rules/itm30452#.YGPHTVVKgdU
 
 
 

Most pantographs available today are really little more than toys. The really good ones used back when are very complex pieces of precision equipment and rather heavy. If you can find a complete one, it will likely be quite expensive if the seller knows the collector's market.
 
In practice, the pros used the pantograph to simply mark points from the original to the copy and then "connected the dots." That's much easier than trying to trace lines with the instrument. Using this method, acceptable results can be realized, even with the cheap ones. In most instances, however, scaling is today far easier with a copy machine.
 
If you find one like this at a garage sale, grab it!

 

 

 
https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904629

I'm so relieved. Be still my heart!
 
I'm still looking for a boxed set of scale rules. They don't come cheap! 
 

Most pantographs available today are really little more than toys. The really good ones used back when are very complex pieces of precision equipment and rather heavy. If you can find a complete one, it will likely be quite expensive if the seller knows the collector's market.
 
In practice, the pros used the pantograph to simply mark points from the original to the copy and then "connected the dots." That's much easier than trying to trace lines with the instrument. Using this method, acceptable results can be realized, even with the cheap ones. In most instances, however, scaling is today far easier with a copy machine.
 
If you find one like this at a garage sale, grab it!

 

 

 
https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904629

Most pantographs available today are really little more than toys. The really good ones used back when are very complex pieces of precision equipment and rather heavy. If you can find a complete one, it will likely be quite expensive if the seller knows the collector's market.
 
In practice, the pros used the pantograph to simply mark points from the original to the copy and then "connected the dots." That's much easier than trying to trace lines with the instrument. Using this method, acceptable results can be realized, even with the cheap ones. In most instances, however, scaling is today far easier with a copy machine.
 
If you find one like this at a garage sale, grab it!

 

 

 
https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904629

I'm so relieved. Be still my heart!
 
I'm still looking for a boxed set of scale rules. They don't come cheap! 
 

So you guys are the ones responsible for the disappearance of all the antique boxwood rules and scales!  
 
Time was, one could scrounge around and amass a collection of traditional boxwood scales and a nice classic folding carpenter's rule without a lot of trouble. Then they started disappearing. I recalled someone said people were buying them because they wanted the boxwood they were made of. I was skeptical, but I'm not skeptical any longer. Realize that the boxwood rules and scales you're cutting up for modeling stock may well be worth a lot more than you think. Not so much plain old "rulers," but be aware of what you've got in your stash. Leave some for those of us who have a use for them.  
 

https://garrettwade.com/product/antique-architects-folding-rule
 
 
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904792
 

https://www.antiquesboutique.com/antique-barometers-instruments/set-of-architect-s-scale-rules/itm30452#.YGPHTVVKgdU
 
 
 

Most pantographs available today are really little more than toys. The really good ones used back when are very complex pieces of precision equipment and rather heavy. If you can find a complete one, it will likely be quite expensive if the seller knows the collector's market.
 
In practice, the pros used the pantograph to simply mark points from the original to the copy and then "connected the dots." That's much easier than trying to trace lines with the instrument. Using this method, acceptable results can be realized, even with the cheap ones. In most instances, however, scaling is today far easier with a copy machine.
 
If you find one like this at a garage sale, grab it!

 

 

 
https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904629

Most pantographs available today are really little more than toys. The really good ones used back when are very complex pieces of precision equipment and rather heavy. If you can find a complete one, it will likely be quite expensive if the seller knows the collector's market.
 
In practice, the pros used the pantograph to simply mark points from the original to the copy and then "connected the dots." That's much easier than trying to trace lines with the instrument. Using this method, acceptable results can be realized, even with the cheap ones. In most instances, however, scaling is today far easier with a copy machine.
 
If you find one like this at a garage sale, grab it!

 

 

 
https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904629

I'm so relieved. Be still my heart!
 
I'm still looking for a boxed set of scale rules. They don't come cheap! 
 

A pantograph is a rather difficult tool to use in practice. You need to have an extremely steady hand on the tracing point, sufficient weight on the pencil point for it to mark properly and a solid mounting on your drafting table. It was useful, I suppose, in the days before scanners and digital enlargement, but I'd scan and (in your case) reduce and print out what you need. 

To Bob Cleek: I have never destroyed a real vintage or antique boxwood rule! I still have my father's Stanley 2' 0" folding rule, complete with level, as well as a set of scale rules similar to the ones you show in post #8. So, rest easy!

That's why eBay prices can go very high, the more so over the last few years; which leads to their cost per cubic metre being much higher than getting castello, and even higher than buying boxwood blanks.
 
Tony

So you guys are the ones responsible for the disappearance of all the antique boxwood rules and scales!  
 
Time was, one could scrounge around and amass a collection of traditional boxwood scales and a nice classic folding carpenter's rule without a lot of trouble. Then they started disappearing. I recalled someone said people were buying them because they wanted the boxwood they were made of. I was skeptical, but I'm not skeptical any longer. Realize that the boxwood rules and scales you're cutting up for modeling stock may well be worth a lot more than you think. Not so much plain old "rulers," but be aware of what you've got in your stash. Leave some for those of us who have a use for them.  
 

https://garrettwade.com/product/antique-architects-folding-rule
 
 
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904792
 

https://www.antiquesboutique.com/antique-barometers-instruments/set-of-architect-s-scale-rules/itm30452#.YGPHTVVKgdU
 
 
 

So you guys are the ones responsible for the disappearance of all the antique boxwood rules and scales!  
 
Time was, one could scrounge around and amass a collection of traditional boxwood scales and a nice classic folding carpenter's rule without a lot of trouble. Then they started disappearing. I recalled someone said people were buying them because they wanted the boxwood they were made of. I was skeptical, but I'm not skeptical any longer. Realize that the boxwood rules and scales you're cutting up for modeling stock may well be worth a lot more than you think. Not so much plain old "rulers," but be aware of what you've got in your stash. Leave some for those of us who have a use for them.  
 

https://garrettwade.com/product/antique-architects-folding-rule
 
 
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904792
 

https://www.antiquesboutique.com/antique-barometers-instruments/set-of-architect-s-scale-rules/itm30452#.YGPHTVVKgdU
 
 
 

So you guys are the ones responsible for the disappearance of all the antique boxwood rules and scales!  
 
Time was, one could scrounge around and amass a collection of traditional boxwood scales and a nice classic folding carpenter's rule without a lot of trouble. Then they started disappearing. I recalled someone said people were buying them because they wanted the boxwood they were made of. I was skeptical, but I'm not skeptical any longer. Realize that the boxwood rules and scales you're cutting up for modeling stock may well be worth a lot more than you think. Not so much plain old "rulers," but be aware of what you've got in your stash. Leave some for those of us who have a use for them.  
 

https://garrettwade.com/product/antique-architects-folding-rule
 
 
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904792
 

https://www.antiquesboutique.com/antique-barometers-instruments/set-of-architect-s-scale-rules/itm30452#.YGPHTVVKgdU
 
 
 

So you guys are the ones responsible for the disappearance of all the antique boxwood rules and scales!  
 
Time was, one could scrounge around and amass a collection of traditional boxwood scales and a nice classic folding carpenter's rule without a lot of trouble. Then they started disappearing. I recalled someone said people were buying them because they wanted the boxwood they were made of. I was skeptical, but I'm not skeptical any longer. Realize that the boxwood rules and scales you're cutting up for modeling stock may well be worth a lot more than you think. Not so much plain old "rulers," but be aware of what you've got in your stash. Leave some for those of us who have a use for them.  
 

https://garrettwade.com/product/antique-architects-folding-rule
 
 
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904792
 

https://www.antiquesboutique.com/antique-barometers-instruments/set-of-architect-s-scale-rules/itm30452#.YGPHTVVKgdU
 
 
 

A couple of observations:
 
Pine tar is a very dark brown, close to black. "Coca Cola color" is really the best description I've heard. The degree of brown depends upon how much tar is put on the cordage. Standing rigging was heavily tarred (as much as it would soak up) to preserve it and so was so brown it was nearly black. At scale viewing distances, standing rigging would appear black.
 

 

 
A bit of thinned pine tar was added to the fibers when rope was laid up to preserve it. This gave new running rigging, which wasn't tarred after manufacture, it's golden brown color, which weathered to gray in the sun after a time. Cordage on sailing ships was traditionally made of hemp fiber, not sisal ("Manila") fibers. Hemp fibers and linen (flax) fibers are close to indistinguishable in their appearance and strength properties, although hemp has somewhat less stretch, is a bit stronger, and weathers better. Hemp was always more expensive than linen and linen more expensive than sisal.  Hemp has a softer "hand" than linen or sisal. 
 
As the governments around the world become more "enlightened," commercial hemp production is rebounding from near extinction. Hemp fabric and hemp thread, and rope, are again currently being produced and, it seems, becoming more available every day. A bit of googling with produce lots of sources for hemp thread. For ship modeling purposes, I presume hemp thread will be every bit as suitable as linen thread, which has generally gone out of production and is hard to source. I presume hemp would offer the same "archival" advantages of linen. If one wanted to get really authentic, they couldn't go far wrong using real tarred hemp thread for laying up scale rope, although I expect waiting for the tar to dry would be something of a pain and since pine tar is nasty, sticky stuff, dyeing it in some other way would probably be preferable. That said, the wonderful aroma of pine tar would improve the overall effect of any model and a dab behind the modeler's ears might make the modeler more attractive as well.
 
(Disclaimer: I haven't tried laying up scale rope from hemp thread as yet, nor have I researched all the possible sources and sizes of hemp thread available. A quick review indicates that there is a range of quality and sizes may be limited compared to the general thread selection of other types.)
 
Pine tar is readily available. It can often be purchased in small amounts in American sporting goods stores, which sell it for application to baseball bat handles. It's stickiness improves the batter's grip. Pine tar is also a staple in "tack shops" which sell equestrian gear. It is used to dress horses' hooves. It keeps them from splitting. It's also an old-time antiseptic for farm animals, particularly chickens. It's smeared on chickens that have been pecked by other chickens and not only is antiseptic for the "peckee," but also unpleasant for the "pecker." Pine tar is also used in the manufacture of certain soaps and as a treatment for human skin conditions, but isn't approved as such and for that use has been deemed carcinogenic.
 
Pine tar differs a bit, particularly in aroma, due to the methods of its extraction and processing. If anybody wants "real" pine tar as was traditionally used in the maritime trades, sometimes referred to as "Stockholm tar," it is available from at least three sources in the US that I'm aware of. George Kirby Jr. Paint Co. has been selling it from their shop in New Bedford, Mass. since the days of the whaling industry. George ("the fourth") Kirby also sells the best line of traditional oil based marine paint available today, together with all other traditional marine coatings. He is available by phone and will mix up anything you want upon request. https://kirbypaint.com/ 
 
George Kirby Jr. Paint Co., New Bedford, Mass. ("Since 1846") : https://kirbypaint.com/products/pine-tar

 
American Rope and Tar : http://www.tarsmell.com/tar.html

 
Fisheries Supply: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/marshall-s-cove-marine-paint-pine-tar

 
 

A couple of observations:
 
Pine tar is a very dark brown, close to black. "Coca Cola color" is really the best description I've heard. The degree of brown depends upon how much tar is put on the cordage. Standing rigging was heavily tarred (as much as it would soak up) to preserve it and so was so brown it was nearly black. At scale viewing distances, standing rigging would appear black.
 

 

 
A bit of thinned pine tar was added to the fibers when rope was laid up to preserve it. This gave new running rigging, which wasn't tarred after manufacture, it's golden brown color, which weathered to gray in the sun after a time. Cordage on sailing ships was traditionally made of hemp fiber, not sisal ("Manila") fibers. Hemp fibers and linen (flax) fibers are close to indistinguishable in their appearance and strength properties, although hemp has somewhat less stretch, is a bit stronger, and weathers better. Hemp was always more expensive than linen and linen more expensive than sisal.  Hemp has a softer "hand" than linen or sisal. 
 
As the governments around the world become more "enlightened," commercial hemp production is rebounding from near extinction. Hemp fabric and hemp thread, and rope, are again currently being produced and, it seems, becoming more available every day. A bit of googling with produce lots of sources for hemp thread. For ship modeling purposes, I presume hemp thread will be every bit as suitable as linen thread, which has generally gone out of production and is hard to source. I presume hemp would offer the same "archival" advantages of linen. If one wanted to get really authentic, they couldn't go far wrong using real tarred hemp thread for laying up scale rope, although I expect waiting for the tar to dry would be something of a pain and since pine tar is nasty, sticky stuff, dyeing it in some other way would probably be preferable. That said, the wonderful aroma of pine tar would improve the overall effect of any model and a dab behind the modeler's ears might make the modeler more attractive as well.
 
(Disclaimer: I haven't tried laying up scale rope from hemp thread as yet, nor have I researched all the possible sources and sizes of hemp thread available. A quick review indicates that there is a range of quality and sizes may be limited compared to the general thread selection of other types.)
 
Pine tar is readily available. It can often be purchased in small amounts in American sporting goods stores, which sell it for application to baseball bat handles. It's stickiness improves the batter's grip. Pine tar is also a staple in "tack shops" which sell equestrian gear. It is used to dress horses' hooves. It keeps them from splitting. It's also an old-time antiseptic for farm animals, particularly chickens. It's smeared on chickens that have been pecked by other chickens and not only is antiseptic for the "peckee," but also unpleasant for the "pecker." Pine tar is also used in the manufacture of certain soaps and as a treatment for human skin conditions, but isn't approved as such and for that use has been deemed carcinogenic.
 
Pine tar differs a bit, particularly in aroma, due to the methods of its extraction and processing. If anybody wants "real" pine tar as was traditionally used in the maritime trades, sometimes referred to as "Stockholm tar," it is available from at least three sources in the US that I'm aware of. George Kirby Jr. Paint Co. has been selling it from their shop in New Bedford, Mass. since the days of the whaling industry. George ("the fourth") Kirby also sells the best line of traditional oil based marine paint available today, together with all other traditional marine coatings. He is available by phone and will mix up anything you want upon request. https://kirbypaint.com/ 
 
George Kirby Jr. Paint Co., New Bedford, Mass. ("Since 1846") : https://kirbypaint.com/products/pine-tar

 
American Rope and Tar : http://www.tarsmell.com/tar.html

 
Fisheries Supply: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/marshall-s-cove-marine-paint-pine-tar

 
 

A couple of observations:
 
Pine tar is a very dark brown, close to black. "Coca Cola color" is really the best description I've heard. The degree of brown depends upon how much tar is put on the cordage. Standing rigging was heavily tarred (as much as it would soak up) to preserve it and so was so brown it was nearly black. At scale viewing distances, standing rigging would appear black.
 

 

 
A bit of thinned pine tar was added to the fibers when rope was laid up to preserve it. This gave new running rigging, which wasn't tarred after manufacture, it's golden brown color, which weathered to gray in the sun after a time. Cordage on sailing ships was traditionally made of hemp fiber, not sisal ("Manila") fibers. Hemp fibers and linen (flax) fibers are close to indistinguishable in their appearance and strength properties, although hemp has somewhat less stretch, is a bit stronger, and weathers better. Hemp was always more expensive than linen and linen more expensive than sisal.  Hemp has a softer "hand" than linen or sisal. 
 
As the governments around the world become more "enlightened," commercial hemp production is rebounding from near extinction. Hemp fabric and hemp thread, and rope, are again currently being produced and, it seems, becoming more available every day. A bit of googling with produce lots of sources for hemp thread. For ship modeling purposes, I presume hemp thread will be every bit as suitable as linen thread, which has generally gone out of production and is hard to source. I presume hemp would offer the same "archival" advantages of linen. If one wanted to get really authentic, they couldn't go far wrong using real tarred hemp thread for laying up scale rope, although I expect waiting for the tar to dry would be something of a pain and since pine tar is nasty, sticky stuff, dyeing it in some other way would probably be preferable. That said, the wonderful aroma of pine tar would improve the overall effect of any model and a dab behind the modeler's ears might make the modeler more attractive as well.
 
(Disclaimer: I haven't tried laying up scale rope from hemp thread as yet, nor have I researched all the possible sources and sizes of hemp thread available. A quick review indicates that there is a range of quality and sizes may be limited compared to the general thread selection of other types.)
 
Pine tar is readily available. It can often be purchased in small amounts in American sporting goods stores, which sell it for application to baseball bat handles. It's stickiness improves the batter's grip. Pine tar is also a staple in "tack shops" which sell equestrian gear. It is used to dress horses' hooves. It keeps them from splitting. It's also an old-time antiseptic for farm animals, particularly chickens. It's smeared on chickens that have been pecked by other chickens and not only is antiseptic for the "peckee," but also unpleasant for the "pecker." Pine tar is also used in the manufacture of certain soaps and as a treatment for human skin conditions, but isn't approved as such and for that use has been deemed carcinogenic.
 
Pine tar differs a bit, particularly in aroma, due to the methods of its extraction and processing. If anybody wants "real" pine tar as was traditionally used in the maritime trades, sometimes referred to as "Stockholm tar," it is available from at least three sources in the US that I'm aware of. George Kirby Jr. Paint Co. has been selling it from their shop in New Bedford, Mass. since the days of the whaling industry. George ("the fourth") Kirby also sells the best line of traditional oil based marine paint available today, together with all other traditional marine coatings. He is available by phone and will mix up anything you want upon request. https://kirbypaint.com/ 
 
George Kirby Jr. Paint Co., New Bedford, Mass. ("Since 1846") : https://kirbypaint.com/products/pine-tar

 
American Rope and Tar : http://www.tarsmell.com/tar.html

 
Fisheries Supply: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/marshall-s-cove-marine-paint-pine-tar

 
 

A couple of observations:
 
Pine tar is a very dark brown, close to black. "Coca Cola color" is really the best description I've heard. The degree of brown depends upon how much tar is put on the cordage. Standing rigging was heavily tarred (as much as it would soak up) to preserve it and so was so brown it was nearly black. At scale viewing distances, standing rigging would appear black.
 

 

 
A bit of thinned pine tar was added to the fibers when rope was laid up to preserve it. This gave new running rigging, which wasn't tarred after manufacture, it's golden brown color, which weathered to gray in the sun after a time. Cordage on sailing ships was traditionally made of hemp fiber, not sisal ("Manila") fibers. Hemp fibers and linen (flax) fibers are close to indistinguishable in their appearance and strength properties, although hemp has somewhat less stretch, is a bit stronger, and weathers better. Hemp was always more expensive than linen and linen more expensive than sisal.  Hemp has a softer "hand" than linen or sisal. 
 
As the governments around the world become more "enlightened," commercial hemp production is rebounding from near extinction. Hemp fabric and hemp thread, and rope, are again currently being produced and, it seems, becoming more available every day. A bit of googling with produce lots of sources for hemp thread. For ship modeling purposes, I presume hemp thread will be every bit as suitable as linen thread, which has generally gone out of production and is hard to source. I presume hemp would offer the same "archival" advantages of linen. If one wanted to get really authentic, they couldn't go far wrong using real tarred hemp thread for laying up scale rope, although I expect waiting for the tar to dry would be something of a pain and since pine tar is nasty, sticky stuff, dyeing it in some other way would probably be preferable. That said, the wonderful aroma of pine tar would improve the overall effect of any model and a dab behind the modeler's ears might make the modeler more attractive as well.
 
(Disclaimer: I haven't tried laying up scale rope from hemp thread as yet, nor have I researched all the possible sources and sizes of hemp thread available. A quick review indicates that there is a range of quality and sizes may be limited compared to the general thread selection of other types.)
 
Pine tar is readily available. It can often be purchased in small amounts in American sporting goods stores, which sell it for application to baseball bat handles. It's stickiness improves the batter's grip. Pine tar is also a staple in "tack shops" which sell equestrian gear. It is used to dress horses' hooves. It keeps them from splitting. It's also an old-time antiseptic for farm animals, particularly chickens. It's smeared on chickens that have been pecked by other chickens and not only is antiseptic for the "peckee," but also unpleasant for the "pecker." Pine tar is also used in the manufacture of certain soaps and as a treatment for human skin conditions, but isn't approved as such and for that use has been deemed carcinogenic.
 
Pine tar differs a bit, particularly in aroma, due to the methods of its extraction and processing. If anybody wants "real" pine tar as was traditionally used in the maritime trades, sometimes referred to as "Stockholm tar," it is available from at least three sources in the US that I'm aware of. George Kirby Jr. Paint Co. has been selling it from their shop in New Bedford, Mass. since the days of the whaling industry. George ("the fourth") Kirby also sells the best line of traditional oil based marine paint available today, together with all other traditional marine coatings. He is available by phone and will mix up anything you want upon request. https://kirbypaint.com/ 
 
George Kirby Jr. Paint Co., New Bedford, Mass. ("Since 1846") : https://kirbypaint.com/products/pine-tar

 
American Rope and Tar : http://www.tarsmell.com/tar.html

 
Fisheries Supply: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/marshall-s-cove-marine-paint-pine-tar

 
 

A couple of observations:
 
Pine tar is a very dark brown, close to black. "Coca Cola color" is really the best description I've heard. The degree of brown depends upon how much tar is put on the cordage. Standing rigging was heavily tarred (as much as it would soak up) to preserve it and so was so brown it was nearly black. At scale viewing distances, standing rigging would appear black.
 

 

 
A bit of thinned pine tar was added to the fibers when rope was laid up to preserve it. This gave new running rigging, which wasn't tarred after manufacture, it's golden brown color, which weathered to gray in the sun after a time. Cordage on sailing ships was traditionally made of hemp fiber, not sisal ("Manila") fibers. Hemp fibers and linen (flax) fibers are close to indistinguishable in their appearance and strength properties, although hemp has somewhat less stretch, is a bit stronger, and weathers better. Hemp was always more expensive than linen and linen more expensive than sisal.  Hemp has a softer "hand" than linen or sisal. 
 
As the governments around the world become more "enlightened," commercial hemp production is rebounding from near extinction. Hemp fabric and hemp thread, and rope, are again currently being produced and, it seems, becoming more available every day. A bit of googling with produce lots of sources for hemp thread. For ship modeling purposes, I presume hemp thread will be every bit as suitable as linen thread, which has generally gone out of production and is hard to source. I presume hemp would offer the same "archival" advantages of linen. If one wanted to get really authentic, they couldn't go far wrong using real tarred hemp thread for laying up scale rope, although I expect waiting for the tar to dry would be something of a pain and since pine tar is nasty, sticky stuff, dyeing it in some other way would probably be preferable. That said, the wonderful aroma of pine tar would improve the overall effect of any model and a dab behind the modeler's ears might make the modeler more attractive as well.
 
(Disclaimer: I haven't tried laying up scale rope from hemp thread as yet, nor have I researched all the possible sources and sizes of hemp thread available. A quick review indicates that there is a range of quality and sizes may be limited compared to the general thread selection of other types.)
 
Pine tar is readily available. It can often be purchased in small amounts in American sporting goods stores, which sell it for application to baseball bat handles. It's stickiness improves the batter's grip. Pine tar is also a staple in "tack shops" which sell equestrian gear. It is used to dress horses' hooves. It keeps them from splitting. It's also an old-time antiseptic for farm animals, particularly chickens. It's smeared on chickens that have been pecked by other chickens and not only is antiseptic for the "peckee," but also unpleasant for the "pecker." Pine tar is also used in the manufacture of certain soaps and as a treatment for human skin conditions, but isn't approved as such and for that use has been deemed carcinogenic.
 
Pine tar differs a bit, particularly in aroma, due to the methods of its extraction and processing. If anybody wants "real" pine tar as was traditionally used in the maritime trades, sometimes referred to as "Stockholm tar," it is available from at least three sources in the US that I'm aware of. George Kirby Jr. Paint Co. has been selling it from their shop in New Bedford, Mass. since the days of the whaling industry. George ("the fourth") Kirby also sells the best line of traditional oil based marine paint available today, together with all other traditional marine coatings. He is available by phone and will mix up anything you want upon request. https://kirbypaint.com/ 
 
George Kirby Jr. Paint Co., New Bedford, Mass. ("Since 1846") : https://kirbypaint.com/products/pine-tar

 
American Rope and Tar : http://www.tarsmell.com/tar.html

 
Fisheries Supply: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/marshall-s-cove-marine-paint-pine-tar

 
 

Hi Allan,
sorry that my answer above was so detailed, but I thought it would be interesting to you.
It`s sad to here that Chuck is no longer producing model rope, it was quite looking good.
 
If you and others are interested:
In the meantime I have built the fifth model-ropery and developed a professional machine that can twist at 4500 rpm. I have spent many years developing a professional machine, also the production of optimal cordage has cost me many thousands of attempts.
Today, however, I am able to produce model ropes between 0.1 mm and 8 mm in diameter. Two-stranded, three-stranded, four-stranded with core, hawser layed or cable layed. I have experimented for a long time to be able to produce the perfect model rope and have orientated myself on the production techniques of the 17th and 18th centuries.
I have studied all the books and documents from this period in detail and will also write a book about it one day........if I live that long.
I have already thought about whether I should post a detailed report on the production of a professional model ropery, because that is a lot of work and at the moment, as you have noticed, I am still busy researching the ENDEAVOUR.
I would also show the making of model rope step by step. Most model ropes are far too soft and loosely twisted and can be pulled apart like chewing gum with the slightest strain. This is a common problem with those who try. But that's only because they don't yet know exactly how to do it, that's all. The machine and the knowledge are elementary prerequisites for success.
So if there is interest, I will make an effort to make an appropriate post. A longer introduction to the basics of rope making and a bit of historical knowledge, would then be the first areas.
So if that is really wanted, then I will try to do my best.

Call up Jim and have him add the cross-cut sled to your order. You know you want it. You will likely save considerably on shipping if it all goes out in one box. If She Who Must Be Obeyed objects, just tell her that you saved a bundle on shipping ordering the sled too. She'll see the logic of that right away. I'll bet she uses the same approach on you all the time if she's like most!  
 
I'd also suggest you spring for the taper jig. It doesn't cost much and is a thing of beauty to behold. It's handy for tapering, too.
 

Call up Jim and have him add the cross-cut sled to your order. You know you want it. You will likely save considerably on shipping if it all goes out in one box. If She Who Must Be Obeyed objects, just tell her that you saved a bundle on shipping ordering the sled too. She'll see the logic of that right away. I'll bet she uses the same approach on you all the time if she's like most!  
 
I'd also suggest you spring for the taper jig. It doesn't cost much and is a thing of beauty to behold. It's handy for tapering, too.