Bob Cleek

Bingo! You win the internet today!

No! It is MY opinion. To me there is not a faster and more effective way to spoil a historical ship model, than paint it with bright colors and then apply a coat of gloss varnish. The same goes for golden hinges, chains, or any metal fittings.

Bingo! You win the internet today!

Bingo! You win the internet today!

Thanks, that answers the question 

Good tool trivia question! That's the sort of question that drives me crazy. I couldn't find any thing on the internet about it. The "blister" on the heel appears in several of Stanley's smaller, simpler, cast-bodied planes. I can't think of any purpose it might serve other than to add some strength or rigidity to the casting in that place. Non-curved plane soles should be perfectly flat to work best, but a cast iron plane body such as the Stanley 101 series is slightly flexible, surprising as that sounds. (This deflection is often created when the screw holding the iron is tightened and it's for this reason that cast iron plane soles must be flattened with the irons mounted, and set above the mouth opening.)  It would seem that the weakest part of the casting would have been right down the middle of the sole, were it not for the finger pad on the toe. The "blister" on the heel would complement the strengthening effect of the finger pad at the other end. These cast iron planes are susceptible to breaking if dropped on a hard surface, such as a concrete floor, so the "blister" may have been for the purpose of strengthening the edge of the heel. It may also serve some manufacturing purpose, such as perhaps simply being a vestage of a casting sprue.  ... Or, like the nib on the tip of the pre-1920's Disston saws, it may just be a stylistic a trademark feature.)
 
I'm definitely going to follow this thread and see if anybody's got a real answer and not just a lot of guesses!
 
 

https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/hand-saws/the-enigmatic-nib
 

Good tool trivia question! That's the sort of question that drives me crazy. I couldn't find any thing on the internet about it. The "blister" on the heel appears in several of Stanley's smaller, simpler, cast-bodied planes. I can't think of any purpose it might serve other than to add some strength or rigidity to the casting in that place. Non-curved plane soles should be perfectly flat to work best, but a cast iron plane body such as the Stanley 101 series is slightly flexible, surprising as that sounds. (This deflection is often created when the screw holding the iron is tightened and it's for this reason that cast iron plane soles must be flattened with the irons mounted, and set above the mouth opening.)  It would seem that the weakest part of the casting would have been right down the middle of the sole, were it not for the finger pad on the toe. The "blister" on the heel would complement the strengthening effect of the finger pad at the other end. These cast iron planes are susceptible to breaking if dropped on a hard surface, such as a concrete floor, so the "blister" may have been for the purpose of strengthening the edge of the heel. It may also serve some manufacturing purpose, such as perhaps simply being a vestage of a casting sprue.  ... Or, like the nib on the tip of the pre-1920's Disston saws, it may just be a stylistic a trademark feature.)
 
I'm definitely going to follow this thread and see if anybody's got a real answer and not just a lot of guesses!
 
 

https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/hand-saws/the-enigmatic-nib
 

That's a nice little plane. It's a knock-off of a Stanley No. 101 modelmaker's plane. If kept sharpened and adjusted, it will give good service. 
 
I came by a 1970's X-acto boxed set very similar to the one pictured. It had a plastic-bodied plane that was useless.

Good tool trivia question! That's the sort of question that drives me crazy. I couldn't find any thing on the internet about it. The "blister" on the heel appears in several of Stanley's smaller, simpler, cast-bodied planes. I can't think of any purpose it might serve other than to add some strength or rigidity to the casting in that place. Non-curved plane soles should be perfectly flat to work best, but a cast iron plane body such as the Stanley 101 series is slightly flexible, surprising as that sounds. (This deflection is often created when the screw holding the iron is tightened and it's for this reason that cast iron plane soles must be flattened with the irons mounted, and set above the mouth opening.)  It would seem that the weakest part of the casting would have been right down the middle of the sole, were it not for the finger pad on the toe. The "blister" on the heel would complement the strengthening effect of the finger pad at the other end. These cast iron planes are susceptible to breaking if dropped on a hard surface, such as a concrete floor, so the "blister" may have been for the purpose of strengthening the edge of the heel. It may also serve some manufacturing purpose, such as perhaps simply being a vestage of a casting sprue.  ... Or, like the nib on the tip of the pre-1920's Disston saws, it may just be a stylistic a trademark feature.)
 
I'm definitely going to follow this thread and see if anybody's got a real answer and not just a lot of guesses!
 
 

https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/hand-saws/the-enigmatic-nib
 

I think that he meant 1.5 times the length of the entire yard when both booms were run out, or 1.5 times half the length of the yard when only one boom was run out. In other words, the length of a stuns'l boom was approximately half the length of the boom and they were run out to extend half of their length with the inboard half of the stuns'l boom doubling the yard. I've never seen any that were otherwise.
 
Since the purpose of the stuns'l booms was to expand the sail area, it makes sense that they would be made as large as possible, which would be half the length of the boom to which they were attached. I think the simplicity of the measurement practice was such that it's failure to be addressed in the contemporary literature is unremarkable.  

Answer Jim Byrnes' questions above and, odds are, he will solve your problem in short order. I'm guessing you didn't realize "jimbyr" is the famous man himself.  

Good tool trivia question! That's the sort of question that drives me crazy. I couldn't find any thing on the internet about it. The "blister" on the heel appears in several of Stanley's smaller, simpler, cast-bodied planes. I can't think of any purpose it might serve other than to add some strength or rigidity to the casting in that place. Non-curved plane soles should be perfectly flat to work best, but a cast iron plane body such as the Stanley 101 series is slightly flexible, surprising as that sounds. (This deflection is often created when the screw holding the iron is tightened and it's for this reason that cast iron plane soles must be flattened with the irons mounted, and set above the mouth opening.)  It would seem that the weakest part of the casting would have been right down the middle of the sole, were it not for the finger pad on the toe. The "blister" on the heel would complement the strengthening effect of the finger pad at the other end. These cast iron planes are susceptible to breaking if dropped on a hard surface, such as a concrete floor, so the "blister" may have been for the purpose of strengthening the edge of the heel. It may also serve some manufacturing purpose, such as perhaps simply being a vestage of a casting sprue.  ... Or, like the nib on the tip of the pre-1920's Disston saws, it may just be a stylistic a trademark feature.)
 
I'm definitely going to follow this thread and see if anybody's got a real answer and not just a lot of guesses!
 
 

https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/hand-saws/the-enigmatic-nib
 

That's a nice little plane. It's a knock-off of a Stanley No. 101 modelmaker's plane. If kept sharpened and adjusted, it will give good service. 
 
I came by a 1970's X-acto boxed set very similar to the one pictured. It had a plastic-bodied plane that was useless.

This is the corollary to "If your mother says you might put your eye out doing it, then it's definitely going to be fun."

I think that he meant 1.5 times the length of the entire yard when both booms were run out, or 1.5 times half the length of the yard when only one boom was run out. In other words, the length of a stuns'l boom was approximately half the length of the boom and they were run out to extend half of their length with the inboard half of the stuns'l boom doubling the yard. I've never seen any that were otherwise.
 
Since the purpose of the stuns'l booms was to expand the sail area, it makes sense that they would be made as large as possible, which would be half the length of the boom to which they were attached. I think the simplicity of the measurement practice was such that it's failure to be addressed in the contemporary literature is unremarkable.  

Good tool trivia question! That's the sort of question that drives me crazy. I couldn't find any thing on the internet about it. The "blister" on the heel appears in several of Stanley's smaller, simpler, cast-bodied planes. I can't think of any purpose it might serve other than to add some strength or rigidity to the casting in that place. Non-curved plane soles should be perfectly flat to work best, but a cast iron plane body such as the Stanley 101 series is slightly flexible, surprising as that sounds. (This deflection is often created when the screw holding the iron is tightened and it's for this reason that cast iron plane soles must be flattened with the irons mounted, and set above the mouth opening.)  It would seem that the weakest part of the casting would have been right down the middle of the sole, were it not for the finger pad on the toe. The "blister" on the heel would complement the strengthening effect of the finger pad at the other end. These cast iron planes are susceptible to breaking if dropped on a hard surface, such as a concrete floor, so the "blister" may have been for the purpose of strengthening the edge of the heel. It may also serve some manufacturing purpose, such as perhaps simply being a vestage of a casting sprue.  ... Or, like the nib on the tip of the pre-1920's Disston saws, it may just be a stylistic a trademark feature.)
 
I'm definitely going to follow this thread and see if anybody's got a real answer and not just a lot of guesses!
 
 

https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/hand-saws/the-enigmatic-nib
 

Carefully and gently scrape with a sharp razor blade or xacto blade with the blade held perpendicular to the surface of the plank until the red paint is removed. Avoid scraping the plank as much as possible. Touch up the planking finish as needed when you're done.

That's a nice little plane. It's a knock-off of a Stanley No. 101 modelmaker's plane. If kept sharpened and adjusted, it will give good service. 
 
I came by a 1970's X-acto boxed set very similar to the one pictured. It had a plastic-bodied plane that was useless.

That's a nice little plane. It's a knock-off of a Stanley No. 101 modelmaker's plane. If kept sharpened and adjusted, it will give good service. 
 
I came by a 1970's X-acto boxed set very similar to the one pictured. It had a plastic-bodied plane that was useless.

I got a Handy Andy boy's tool box with a selection of basic low-quality tools when I was about four or five. I think it was my dad's intention to keep me out of the drawers in his workshop. I still have the tool box and a few of the tools... a screwdriver, a hammer a square, and a (practically useless) plane. I also still have the scar on the back of my left hand that I gave myself using the handsaw sixty-seven years ago, too! 

This is the corollary to "If your mother says you might put your eye out doing it, then it's definitely going to be fun."

This is the corollary to "If your mother says you might put your eye out doing it, then it's definitely going to be fun."

That's the beauty of modeling: You're never too old to have fun doing it! 

Yes, well, it may not matter if it won't be seen, but any drain located below the waterline which discharges through a through-hull fitting located below the waterline needs a vented loop between the fixture (usually a sink or head) which runs inside the vessel to a height sufficiently above the waterline to prevent the water from simply pouring into the boat up through the head or sink drain that is also below the waterline. Modernly, check valves are also employed, but reliance solely on a check valve which can fail simply by a some obstruction in the valve preventing its closing isn't considered prudent.
 
Here's what it looks like on a head installation:
 

 
The Bristol cutters and similar types are fairly deep drafted and it's not uncommon for their head and galley sink drains to be well below the heeled waterline. Head outlets are almost always below the waterline in small craft. The vented loop on your model's sink wouldn't necessarily be visible, being concealed behind the joinerwork, but any sink below the waterline at any angle of heel will require at least two pumps, one for the fresh water supply and one for emptying the sink, since the water isn't going to flow uphill. (On older well-found classic vessels, a third pump or faucet may have been present to supply salt water supply for washing dishes, etc.) Of course, modernly, where a pressurized electrical pump water system is installed, the sink faucet will look no different than a residential or recreational vehicle installation.

I think the decision as to a stove is going in large measure to depend upon the date at which the model is portrayed. She's definitely going to be "finestkind" on all fittings and equipment, so you need to know the "when" of it all. If earlier, an iron solid fuel wood and coal stove would be called for. Later, an alcohol or kerosene stove might be appropriate. Modernly, a propane gas stove would be found on such a fine yacht. She would seem too small to carry a separate generator capable of powering an electric stove. 
 
Just my two cents' worth.