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I am wondering how to go about cutting down a piece of lumber into usable billets (approx. 2" x 20" x say 1/4").

 

I hope this diagram makes sense--

 

1185838809_CuttingBillets.thumb.JPG.5e26754f35037a2f9af7094cb4f32379.JPG

 

My question is--is A or B the preferred method for the "final" cutting, in view of how the grain runs?   Does it matter whether the billet will be used for framing, or if it is going to be further cut into planking strips?

 

Ron

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There is a wonderful paper on the properties of wood at:

 

https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/AnOverviewOfWoodProperties.pdf

 

on page 8 is an image regarding shrinkage and warpage

you might want to study it and then decide.

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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The following is from my wooden canoe restoring experience.  It may or may not be applicable to the much smaller cross sections that we encounter.

 

Wood canvas Canoes use wood for two structural elements; Ribs 5/16in thick x 2-1/2in wide, steam bent into a U shape, and Planking 3/16in thick x 3in wide.  Material is Northern Cedar and in some cases Red Cedar.

 

Stock for ribs is usually flat sawn as it is considered to be easier to bend.  quarter sawn stock is preferred for planking.

 

 

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As Roger explained, it depends on what the cut piece is going to be used for. Grain orientation is a factor in strength and ease of bending, as well as in the piece's ability to hold fastenings and resist splitting. Most good basic books on woodworking will treat the subject of milling and grain orientaton in their early chapters.

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