Bob Cleek

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

I came across this mini drill press the other day, It isn't as elegant looking as the one above, but it's rated at 120W/450 RPM as compared to the one above at 30W/4800 RPM, has a drilling depth (quill stroke) of 42mm (1.65") versus 13mm on the above one, and it has an adjustable depth stop on it.  $67.00 (w/ free shipping from Los Angeles) Mini Bench Drill Press Precision Table Milling Machine Portable Driller DIY 120W | eBay

I would suggest that anybody who is thinking of a mini drill press and an x/y table might want to consider Vanda Lay Industries' offerings. They started with a CNC'd aluminum mini drill press that holds a Dremel moto-tool (or any other rotary tool including the 1" Foredom flex shaft handpieces (which I'd consider a much better alternative than the Dremel) and their "system" has grown now to include a milling machine that doubles as a drill press and has x, y, and z tables, as well as a mini lathe option. I have their drill press with a Dremel in it and it is a high-quality piece of equipment, perhaps more than the Dremel moto-tool deserves. The Foredom handpieces would provide more accuracy and torque at lower speeds than the Dremel. See: HOME (vanda-layindustries.com)

Looking forward to your review!

Looking forward to your review!

Funny you should mention that.
Ron's little gadget got me interested in getting something to replace the miserable Dremel excuse for a drill press.
I found the one you are looking at on Amazon.
The one in the OP looked really well made but appeared to have some limitations, the main one being a depth limiting mechanism.
 
I haven't unboxed the thing yet, but might get around to it today and will report back.
 
P.S.
 
The information description our Chinese friends come up with can be amusing.   There seems to be some sort of competition to come up with the most words, regardless if makes any sense to more experienced users.  Here is a little snip:
 
" .....also for home use, such as DIY or installing furniture. "
 
Right!  That has got to be the main reason I bought this..😁

These semi Diesel engines used to be very popular for applications like commercial fishing boats.  They allowed diesel fuel to be used instead of the highly volatile and dangerous gasoline.  The glow plugs allowed a lower compression ratio and a lighter engine.  The glow plug was initially heater with an external heat source but once the engine started combustion in the cylinders kept them hot.
 
Even though not a true Diesel, Gjoa’s engine is still massive.
 
Roger

Theoretical-  if you know the wattage that the machine draws and can measure RPM’ s you can determine torque.  Torque= Power (watts) / speed

Our craft (to me it’s not just a hobby) is so broad that the the tools required are largely dependent on the ship that you have decided to model.  The most often used tool in my workshop is my drill press.  While I seldom use it for the model itself, I often use it to fabricate Theo jigs and fixtures necessary to fabricate the parts for the model.

Bob,
I`m very pleased that you like the model and thanks for your kind comments. You`re right, I tried to put a bit of that 1918 oldie Laker-steamship "charme" into the build. It was not easy to start with, because I had no build plans, except a frameplan of an appr. equal tonnage and length Ferris type freighter. I was facinated of the feeling transmitted through the manyfold careful watch of the "Sea Chase" movie, german  movie name "Der Seefuchs". All details were adopted from stand-pics I made from the movie video (Free available on the web). For the figures, 1:87 (H0 scale) I preferably use chosen out Preiser figures, in this case also from Artitec
 
Nils

Nils - excellent work - I like the way the crew and passengers bring your models to life. I worry about the blond lady, she looks like her reserve of stability is somewhat suspect. She would be advised to take a step back from the rail.

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

Great job! An interesting vessel and a model that is truly a work of art. By that I mean that it's details, particularly the figures, convey a sense of warmth and charm, a sense of "life," if you will, that doesn't seem possible to achieve with our highly accurate, but, frankly, "lifeless and antiseptic," "as built" technical modeling masterpieces. This model demonstrates how a viewer can indeed be "drawn into the reality" of a ship; by viewing a model of it. This isn't a criticism of technical "as built" models at all. They are a different thing entirely and magnificent in their own right. This model, though, really exemplifies that quality that distinguishes art from craftsmanship in ship modeling, two equally respectable qualities, which I've tried with only limited success to explain to others from time to time. 
 
What I'm talking about here is exemplified by the photo below. Nobody who's ever been to sea can fail to recall the feeling of facing into the wind that this tableau conveys:
 

FINISHED
 
The Laker-steamer Ergenstrasse of birthyear 1918 is now finished.
Will still have to build the glass case for it
Enjoy the pics. I shall choose out some of them and 
create a new album for these.....
 
Nils
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Merry Christmas! Keep up the good work!

That's true. The books cited are for earlier rope-stropped blocks. The ship-smithing is obvious. a rod of suitable length would be formed with a pointed end and then bent to the shape of the hook desired. (The tip of the hook is bent outward from the shaft of the hook to hold the mousing as might be required to keep the hook from coming loose in use.) If used, thimbles would be attached to the hooks when the eye was formed. Thimbles are simply a section of metal tubing flared at either end. Thimbles were frequently made of soft metal such as copper or even lead, as their purpose was to prevent the chafing of the rope eye worked around the thimble. A block would be stropped with a strop large enough that the thimble could be secured to the strop by a throat lashing between the block and the thimble. Later metal stropped blocks would have a metal eye fashioned in the metal strop and a hook attached with a shackle. Blocks with hooks were in the minority, since the only need for a hook on a block would be for a block that needed to be disconnected on a regular basis such as for tackles.
 
As mentioned, there are various options for such construction, but the period will dictate which practices were most common at that time. 
 

 
Here's the "how to" from Ashley's Book of Knots which should answer some of your questions:
 

 
And this from Hervey Garret Smith's The Arts of the Sailor:
 
 

 
Everything you need to know about rigging of any period is in a book somewhere. Each period has its "go-to" reference volumes. You will find it very helpful to acquire whichever reference works are relevant to the period of the model you are building. (Most are available new or used in reprints and occasionally online PDF's.) Asking questions on internet forums may get you pointed in the right direction, but, if you think about it, if you don't know the answer, it's pretty hard to know whether the answer you get from an online "expert" is the correct one, isn't it? 
 
 
 

It really depends upon the historical period you're talking about. That will determine the construction details of the block which will determine the options for attaching a hook to it. Modernly, not infrequently, a shackle is used to connect an eye hook to the frame of an iron-stropped block. For earlier technology, you may find these contemporary treatises helpful.
 
TheArtOfRigging-Steel.pdf (thenrg.org)
 
The art of rigging (thenrg.org)
 
The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 (Dover Maritime): Anderson, R. C.: 0800759279609: Amazon.com: Books

@giampieroricci
@Nunnehi (Don)
Thank you very much for your interest in my work and the kind words.
I would also like to thank you all for the many LIKES.
 
A happy new year 2024 to all.
 
Continuation: Equipping the mizzen topsail yard - Vergue de perroquet de fouge
The last of La Créole's topsail yards, the mizzen topsail yard, has now also been fitted with a jackstay and lashed in the middle.

 
The next step was to make and attach the footropes with a rope ø 22 mm (model scale ø 0.46 mm). Due to the relatively short spans, one stirrup for each half of the mizzen topsail yard seemed sufficient. 
The next step was to make the strops for the yard tackles, which will later be attached to the yardarms. 

The next picture shows detailed sections of the rigging elements already mentioned. A comparison with a stirrup for the main yard is also shown.

 
The following picture shows the finished blocks (each 3.5 mm long) for the braces and the leech lines. As with the other yards, the blocks were attached directly to the yard strops using ø 1.4 mm thimbles ("dog and bitch" connection). 

 
I continued with the strops for the lower blocks of the clew lines (l = 3.5 mm) and making the toggles to connect them to the sheets.


Last but not least, a picture of the current state of the mizzen topsail yard.

 
Finally, the clew lines, the reef tackles and the sheets are still missing for the final outfitting of the mizzen topsail yard.
 
See you soon ...
 

A few quiet minutes between the holidays can be usefully filled...😀
 
Equipment of the mizzen topsail yard – Vergue de perroquet de fouge
In the meantime I have started equipping the mizzen topsail yard of the La Créole. The first step was to make the necessary blocks and thimbles, as shown in the first picture.


The tye block has a length of 5 mm and is therefore the largest block at the mizzen topsail yard.


The next picture shows the size ratio of the tye block of the mizzen topsail yard to the tye block of the mizzen topsail yard. The difference is clear, as the mizzen topsail yard itself is significantly smaller and therefore lighter.


In the last picture the first rigging elements are already attached, such as the tye block with the stropped blocks for the bunt lines, the truss and the quarter blocks.


I cannot tell from the images available to me to what extent the mizzen topsail yard was equipped with a jackstay. I can't find any information about this in the monograph either. Nevertheless, I tend to equip the mizzen topsail yard with a jackstay.
Up soon …
 
Wish you all a happy new year!

Most definitely!  Most any articulated bench vise will do the trick. Stanley makes one many have praised. You can add a shop made pair of longer jaws to spread the pressure on the keel over however long a distance you wish or add "fingers" to grasp from inside the hull to work on the hull upside down. This vise is pictured below laying on its side. The bottom clamp is for attaching to the lip of the bench. The vise is mounted on a captive ball joint which allows the jaws to be positioned in any angle desired. Shop around online for this one. Prices run around $50 to $65, depending upon free shipping or not and all the rest of the online marketing gimmicks. 
 

 
https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-83-069M-MaxSteelTM-Multi-Angle-Base/dp/B079NBYRDK/ref=psdc_3021459011_t1_B000UOJF66
 
If you ever get a chance to score a Zyliss Vise (AKA the "Swiss Army Vise," It was actually designed for field use by the Swiss army.) it probably offers more versatility for modeling and many other uses than anything else. They come up on eBay regularly, but I don't believe they are manufactured anymore. (As always, beware of cheap imitations. If you buy on eBay, make sure you get the optional attachments, particularly the "turntable" that permits using it in any angle as a carver's vise. The original is a much better quality tool than the Asian knock-offs marketed as the "Z-vise," etc. but the later Asian made ones' parts are interchangeable with the originals.) A decent one probably won't set you back any more than a Keel Klamper and will afford a myriad of applications in a much sturdier vise.) See: http://www.homeshow.co.nz/accessories.html , and  https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/collections/portable-clamping-system-parts. I've ordered parts for mine from Advanced Machinery and was happy with them.
 

 
(Sorry about this fellow's Kiwi accent!  )
 
 
How one deals with holding a model's hull while it's being worked on is a matter of personal preference. For next to no cost at all, I often make a holding base for a hull I'm working on out of a suitably-sized block of styrofoam packing material carved to fit or from foam tubes soled as swimming pool toys or split pipe insulation. These can be cut to length, formed into a suitably-shaped bundle, and bound at either end with duct tape. This creates a tight slot that the keel can be pushed into and the hull can then be worked on on the bench without the danger of it being damaged.
 
There are many clever gadgets on the market for ship modeling. Some of the more expensive of these are often either of questionable practical value or far more easily and inexpensively made in the shop. As for the Keel Klamper, you've got to ask yourself, "Is this bit of plastic and lightweight aluminum worth a hundred bucks plus shipping?