Bob Cleek

Normally, there would be two drain pipe holes in a cockpit like that one, placed at opposite corners port and starboard. Below, the drain pipes would be crossed, so that the port hole pipe drained to the starboard side and the starboard pipe ran to the port side. This permitted the cockpit to drain completely on either tack. With a single drain in the middle of the cockpit, when the vessel heeled, the lower side of the cockpit would not drain below the center hole. 
 
Also, the run of the deck planking is very unusual. Was this as portrayed in the plans? Usually, deck planking will never butt adjacent to another butt. There will not be straight lines of butts across the deck from port to starboard. That is a structurally weak assembly and also difficult to caulk and keep watertight. 
 
These are minor notes, but perhaps of help for future reference.
 
Very nice, crisp work! Excellent detail work on the hinged skylight.  Thanks for sharing it with us.

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"
 
Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 
 
Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.
 
To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw
 
 
 

I find being terrified of the saw helps. 

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"
 
Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 
 
Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.
 
To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw
 
 
 

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"
 
Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 
 
Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.
 
To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw
 
 
 

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"
 
Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 
 
Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.
 
To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw
 
 
 

While I have owned a radial arm saw many years ago, I've never owned or operated a table saw.
 
Seems to me my Byrne's saw is just a smaller version of the full size machine so the same techniques and safety rules apply.
 
While waiting for delivery of the saw I decided to purchase the following and get some education.
 
https://m.barnesandnoble.com/w/tauntons-complete-illustrated-guide-to-tablesaws-paul-anthony/1103185359

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"
 
Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 
 
Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.
 
To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw
 
 
 

It is but just don’t follow her technique as it’s dangerous. Lots of kick backs due to pushing the wrong side of the work piece and using the fence and mitre together.  Get a good book on table saw practice as these little machines are quite powerful for their size 

I'm getting a sickening feeling in the pit of my stomach that these are the "Byrnes Saw" of chisels. I think I may have to start squirreling away the bucks to buy a set without the purser noticing!  
 
Are the figured wood handled ones a special order or does he have some sort of catalog? 

They are brilliant  received mine back in June will be doing more carving on my next build, Mikail was very nice to deal with and even showed me some of his carvings they are absolutely outstanding, a master carver.
He also gives you how to sharpen and with pictures.
 

 
Here is one of the pictures 

 
 
Bob they are not a special order you just pay more.
 
Very satisfied customer 👍
 
Regards
Richard   

I'm getting a sickening feeling in the pit of my stomach that these are the "Byrnes Saw" of chisels. I think I may have to start squirreling away the bucks to buy a set without the purser noticing!  
 
Are the figured wood handled ones a special order or does he have some sort of catalog? 

She's certainly coming together nicely. Lovely model!

She's certainly coming together nicely. Lovely model!

Beautiful work, as always. This is such an inspiring build log!
 
Now you've got me going. I can't for the life of me understand how that half-bulkhead drops down to cover the stairwell in the deckhouse. I suppose it could easily be broken down and set in place, but what about the round newel post? How does that fit flush into the sole? And it's got to weigh plenty. That gas strut, if that be what it is, seems way too small. Stranger still, when it's down, the stairwell is closed. One would have to go forward to another hatch and then work their way aft. That steward bringing the coffee and cocktails certainly can't be happy about that folding stairwell hatch! Obviously, in a vessel as well-conceived as this one, they must have done it right, but how do they do it?

She's certainly coming together nicely. Lovely model!

Les, I assume that you mean .5mm, not .05mm.  .5mm is still very thin, about .020in.  I would select the wood with the straightest grain possible. Then If possible I would cut it with the grain vertical,  that is with the parallel rings perpendicular to the wide dimension.
 
Roger

In milling cedar for wood canvas canoes it is generally understood that flat sawn wood is more flexible than quarter sawn- wood with vertical grain.  Ribs that are 5/32/in thick x 3in wide and have sharp bends are flat sawn.  Planking which is 3/16in thick and wider and not subject to tight bends ideally is selected from quarter sawn stock.
 
The same principle would apply to model ship planking, except in either case try to avoid pieces where the grain in the plane to be bent runs out to the bent surface as this is where cracks are likely to start.
 
Roger

Les,
You may want to consider the  type of walnut, claro, black,  English or some other.  Try making a few planks the easy way first from your board and see if it is a reasonable match in color and grain to the planks that came in your kit.   If it is a different species, the contrast may not be what you would like regardless of which direction you make the cuts from the board that you have.   
 
Allan

A "gun tackle" is any single-purchase tackle. Two single sheave blocks with the top one having a bail at the bottom. The line runs from the bail down to the lower block and back up and through the upper block with the fall coming down from there. So-called because they were commonly attached to each side of gun carriages. 
As the saying goes, "Different ships, different long splices." It's a matter of taste and there are no hard and fast rules. I suppose one could serve and tar the standing part of a topping life, but why would they want to? The tar would get all over the sails, for one thing, and it would just be an unnecessary job to keep up. 
 
The lines pictured in my post are definitely topping lifts. Lines are sometimes spliced into topping lifts, the line running down and around the boom and back up to the topping lift on the other side, allowing the topping lifts to serve double duty as support for lazy jacks. However, at least on the western side of the Pond, lazy jacks are rarely seen on gaff-headed sails because the gaff boom, being lowered between a pair of topping lifts, keeps the sail under control when being lowered. Lazy jacks are more often seen on jib-headed sails for this reason. On smaller jib-headed sails, the topping lift is often just one line run from the masthead to the end of the boom, in which case lazy jacks made up of lighter cordage are more commonly seen. I would expect that lazy jacks were less common on large naval vessels where there were "many hands to make light work" of handing the sail. The conventional wisdom favors less weight and windage aloft and, certainly, less chafe on the sails.

Just like the prototype...…..

Thanks, wefalck! That adds some more information to it all.  Every bit counts. One of the interesting things about modeling boats, and building full-sized ones, is that so many different crafts and technologies have to be explored and, to one extent or another, mastered. I find it fascinating. (Other's don't and buy kits. There's no accounting for taste.)

This may, or may not, be obvious, but in the off chance it isn't, do a bunch of tests to determine what effect you will get from any stain. Use decking scraps. You can always darken stains, but you can't lighten them. If you are going to get an effect you don't want, better to get it on a piece of scrap wood than on the deck of a model!

You might also want to investigate liver of sulphur gel, which is available from most all jewelry supply houses.

Standing rigging "stands." it doesn't move to operate the vessel. Running rigging "runs" or moves, often through blocks, to operate the vessel. 
A topping lift is running rigging and would likely not be served and tarred because it has to run through blocks to operate. It would be the same untarred color of the rest of the running rigging. Baggywrinkle is commonly found on topping lifts, though. The baggywrinkle prevents the topping lift from chafing the sail. I don't know for certain when baggywrinkle came into use, so if you are modeling an early vessel, you may want to do more research on that point.  Here's all you need to know about it:   http://www.scottmckittrick.com/2019/02/18/baggywrinkle-or-whats-that-fuzzy-stuff-on-the-ship/