Bob Cleek

Free yourselves from the tyranny of "model paints." They are a huge rip-off when you consider what the paint costs to make, package, and ship. In most instances, I expect the manufacturer's cost of the bottle is more than the cost of the paint and, yes, those partially used little bottles dry out before you get around to using them up.
 
There's a radical alternative. It takes a bit of a learning curve to master, but the basics are easily acquired and, for ship modeling purposes, the basics are pretty much all you need to know unless you want to get into really sophisticated weathering techniques which are, themselves, easier this "old fashioned" way. Do as the fine artists of old did. Mix your own paints. You will have complete flexibility in terms of consistency, flow, drying time, color and hue and save a considerable amount of money otherwise wasted on dried up little jars of what they pass off as paint these days. You won't have to grind your own pigments and mull them, though. That's done for us when commercially produced artists' oils, turpentine, and a bit of Japan drier are used. With the limited pallete we use in ship modeling, you won't need to buy a lot of different colors, either.
 
Here's all you need to know: https://figurementors.com/limitted-palette/the-science-of-oil-paints-with-kyle-kolbe/

I'm glad to hear the news! David is a really great guy and his catalog is a real treasure. Now that I know he's up and running, I'll have to take a look at what I might want to treat myself to next. He has classic books that aren't obtainable anywhere else at extremely reasonable prices. These aren't cheapo photostatic copies. They are real books. Check it out: http://www.dngoodchild.com/

Free yourselves from the tyranny of "model paints." They are a huge rip-off when you consider what the paint costs to make, package, and ship. In most instances, I expect the manufacturer's cost of the bottle is more than the cost of the paint and, yes, those partially used little bottles dry out before you get around to using them up.
 
There's a radical alternative. It takes a bit of a learning curve to master, but the basics are easily acquired and, for ship modeling purposes, the basics are pretty much all you need to know unless you want to get into really sophisticated weathering techniques which are, themselves, easier this "old fashioned" way. Do as the fine artists of old did. Mix your own paints. You will have complete flexibility in terms of consistency, flow, drying time, color and hue and save a considerable amount of money otherwise wasted on dried up little jars of what they pass off as paint these days. You won't have to grind your own pigments and mull them, though. That's done for us when commercially produced artists' oils, turpentine, and a bit of Japan drier are used. With the limited pallete we use in ship modeling, you won't need to buy a lot of different colors, either.
 
Here's all you need to know: https://figurementors.com/limitted-palette/the-science-of-oil-paints-with-kyle-kolbe/

Ain't that the truth!

Ain't that the truth!

Ain't that the truth!

I believe that the Byrnes Saw fence has a very slight taper on the back half of the fence built into it already for exactly this purpose. 

Ha! Being as nobody's making them anymore, as far as I know, I don't think it would hurt anybody's bottom line. (There was an outfit in Argentina that reportedly took over manufacturing them after Emco quit, but I don't think they ever did much of anything with them.) Besides, I doubt there's anything on the Unimat that is patented or copyrighted save, perhaps, the brand name. They haven't been built in going on fifty years. A lathe is a lathe is a lathe. What made the Unimat SL's such good machines were their accuracy and quality of construction. After WWII, there were a lot of unemployed German and Austrian machinists available to direct their energies to building things like Unimats instead of the Reich's war industries. They all started retiring right around the time Emco quit producing Unimats. (Coincidence?) The stuff I'm talking about is all generic, such as collet holders. The Unimat has a threaded spindle, but nobody makes a compression collet holder with the threading to match it. Hence, if you want a Unimat collect holder and a half dozen collets, you'll have to pay somewhere between $700 and $1,000 or more for them. 

Ha! Being as nobody's making them anymore, as far as I know, I don't think it would hurt anybody's bottom line. (There was an outfit in Argentina that reportedly took over manufacturing them after Emco quit, but I don't think they ever did much of anything with them.) Besides, I doubt there's anything on the Unimat that is patented or copyrighted save, perhaps, the brand name. They haven't been built in going on fifty years. A lathe is a lathe is a lathe. What made the Unimat SL's such good machines were their accuracy and quality of construction. After WWII, there were a lot of unemployed German and Austrian machinists available to direct their energies to building things like Unimats instead of the Reich's war industries. They all started retiring right around the time Emco quit producing Unimats. (Coincidence?) The stuff I'm talking about is all generic, such as collet holders. The Unimat has a threaded spindle, but nobody makes a compression collet holder with the threading to match it. Hence, if you want a Unimat collect holder and a half dozen collets, you'll have to pay somewhere between $700 and $1,000 or more for them. 

Nice collection! Now you can auction off your first-born child for money to buy tooling on eBay!  Great machines. For all  the crap the Chinese copy and sell cheap, I can't imagine why they haven't started selling Unimat SL clones. They haven't been in production since the 1970's and the attachments are getting so scarce now that they bring insane prices. Still, they are real gems if you can manage to put together a well-tooled one.
 
Just a note on the off chance you weren't aware, the older U90 motors like you've got there on yours and which now run around $175.00 on US eBay, are not "continuous duty" motors. They are designed for intermittent service. You can look up the details in the Unimat manuals on line, but, as I recall, they are rated for something like a maximum eight minute run time at which point they should be turned off and allowed to cool for an equal amount of time. They don't have an overheating disconnect switch and if they are run too long, particularly under load, they will burn out. The newer U-100 motors (plastic case with orange colored slide switch) are "continuous duty" rated. They run about $235.00 and up on US eBay. 

I did not catch that you already have a thickness sander in reading your question.  I was not questioning or criticizing your present setup.
 
The Byrnes thickness sander is a solid, precise, stable machine.  The medium is easy to renew.  My only criticism is for the strength of the spring holding the depth wheel.  I jury rigged a fix.  For its function, there is no peer,  or even close.
The Byrnes tablesaw.  Nothing else comes close.  It will probably require tech with a near zero kerf ray with no charring to replace it.  Or a neutronium wire.
The Byrnes disc sander  -  powerful,  the dust extraction is excellent,  I sand to a pattern line, but I have every confidence that miter gauge is accurate.  No plastic is sanded here, so speed control is not needed.
 
The ideal choice is all three.  If you must choose one,  odds on,  the tablesaw is number one,  once you have a hull to plank.   It does not come into play for framing, though.
Framing - the disc sander is minor, but vital.
Processing commercial lumber - the thickness sander   -   but a big powerful bandsaw stands ahead of it.
 

I wrote an email to Byrnes Machines, and had an answer regarding the motors in less than then minutes.
The motors are not able to change for variable speed, this as they are capacitor start motors.
I talked to my friend who has the sander and saw, he also said "Go for the saw". 
Which gives me a great idea. I buy the saw since it's more expensive with some accessories and put the sander on the christmas tree list.
This way I will have both and less growling about a more expensive christmas gift.
 

I believe that the Byrnes Saw fence has a very slight taper on the back half of the fence built into it already for exactly this purpose. 

I believe that the Byrnes Saw fence has a very slight taper on the back half of the fence built into it already for exactly this purpose. 

Perhaps, but it was Jim Byrnes that gave me this step first, and offered again by others.

I believe that the Byrnes Saw fence has a very slight taper on the back half of the fence built into it already for exactly this purpose. 

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"
 
Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 
 
Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.
 
To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw
 
 
 

See the sticky post at the top of this forum section. It will answer all your saw blade questions. Jim Byrnes can tell you which blades you'll need depending upon what you plan to do with the saw. 
 
 

All of those accessories above are very useful. I'd urge anyone to get them all at the time you buy the saw. I expect you'd save a good bit of money on shipping charges if it were all shipped together. The sliding table may seem like a chunk of money, and it is, but it's really worth it. You can build your own, but if you want to replicate the accuracy the saw is capable of with a sliding table, get the factory-made one. It's a beautiful piece of machining, too. 

This is all it takes to prevent kickbacks in my experience, that and a side block to keep it tight to the side and a push stick to move it past the blade. 

Take a look at your set-up before the cut.  If the cut-off end will be trapped between the blade and fence, expect kick back.

Normally, there would be two drain pipe holes in a cockpit like that one, placed at opposite corners port and starboard. Below, the drain pipes would be crossed, so that the port hole pipe drained to the starboard side and the starboard pipe ran to the port side. This permitted the cockpit to drain completely on either tack. With a single drain in the middle of the cockpit, when the vessel heeled, the lower side of the cockpit would not drain below the center hole. 
 
Also, the run of the deck planking is very unusual. Was this as portrayed in the plans? Usually, deck planking will never butt adjacent to another butt. There will not be straight lines of butts across the deck from port to starboard. That is a structurally weak assembly and also difficult to caulk and keep watertight. 
 
These are minor notes, but perhaps of help for future reference.
 
Very nice, crisp work! Excellent detail work on the hinged skylight.  Thanks for sharing it with us.

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"
 
Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 
 
Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.
 
To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw
 
 
 

I find being terrified of the saw helps. 

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"
 
Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 
 
Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.
 
To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw