Bob Cleek

Paper is one of the shortest-lasting materials used in modeling. It's highly susceptible to acidic deterioration, both inherently, as with papers containing acids, and externally, from environmental factors. Adhesives used on paper pose the risk of soaking into the paper and attacking it chemically, as well. Over time, glues can permeate paper and stain and discolor it. Chuck's suggested use of Avery Glue Sticks is probably a good option.  Paper conservators use rice and wheat-based pastes. White (clear) shellac is also a good solution, so long as the ink isn't alcohol-soluble. A coat of thin shellac will hold a piece of paper and another on top will seal the paper. This "decoupage" method also works with any clear coating. 
 
I've bookmarked this chart on adhesives from the Preservation Self-Assessment Program ("PSAP") and others might find it helpful: https://psap.library.illinois.edu/collection-id-guide/adhesives
 
"The PSAP is a free online tool that helps museum and library collection managers prioritize efforts to improve conditions of collections. Through guided evaluation of materials, storage/exhibit environments, and institutional policies, the PSAP produces reports on the factors that impact the health of cultural heritage materials, and defines the points from which to begin care." The PSAP is chock-full of data on the archival qualities of materials and preservation methods. Anybody who cares about the longevity of their models will probably find it very interesting.  

Before using a solvent-based glue, check that it does not attack the printing ink and/or leads to bleeding of the inks.

Hi Kenna,
 
I suggest you pick up a copy of Antonio Mendez C.'s now-very-affordable book, William Frederick's (1874) Scale Journey: A Scratchbuilder's Evolutionary Development available on eBay and Amazon. I wrote a review of it. (Link below.) The late Mr. Mendez was an internationally recognized ship modeler of long standing who specialized in sailing models. His book is full of information on how to build model ships that actually sail. I'm not aware of any other books on that subject. There is, of course, much in his book that applies to static models, as well, but if you are interested in models that actually sail, this is the book that has all that. I'd strongly recommend that you get a copy and read up on the subject before starting to "chop wood." It will likely save you lots of time and frustration and ensure your build is top notch. 
 
As I'm sure others will also say to you, start small and work up to something like a Manila galleon. The most common mistake most ship modelers make is biting off more than they can chew on their first attempt. There's a learning curve to it, like anything else. (Don't believe the kit manufacturers' sales hype that "anyone can do it!") Start with a relatively simple fore and aft rigged sailing vessel and get the basics under your belt. Learn to play simple pieces before tackling Bach! 
 

Hi Kenna,
 
I suggest you pick up a copy of Antonio Mendez C.'s now-very-affordable book, William Frederick's (1874) Scale Journey: A Scratchbuilder's Evolutionary Development available on eBay and Amazon. I wrote a review of it. (Link below.) The late Mr. Mendez was an internationally recognized ship modeler of long standing who specialized in sailing models. His book is full of information on how to build model ships that actually sail. I'm not aware of any other books on that subject. There is, of course, much in his book that applies to static models, as well, but if you are interested in models that actually sail, this is the book that has all that. I'd strongly recommend that you get a copy and read up on the subject before starting to "chop wood." It will likely save you lots of time and frustration and ensure your build is top notch. 
 
As I'm sure others will also say to you, start small and work up to something like a Manila galleon. The most common mistake most ship modelers make is biting off more than they can chew on their first attempt. There's a learning curve to it, like anything else. (Don't believe the kit manufacturers' sales hype that "anyone can do it!") Start with a relatively simple fore and aft rigged sailing vessel and get the basics under your belt. Learn to play simple pieces before tackling Bach! 
 

In real life, it's the sail itself that provides the downward tension on the gaff boom.  If you want to show the gaff boom raised, you pretty much have to bend a sail onto it. As you mentioned, a wire peg or small nail with the head removed set in a drilled hole between the gaff jaws right where they touch the mast and glued into a corresponding hole on the mast, which will invisibly fasten the gaff to the mast, is a solution. Another approach some take is to tie a line from the end of the gaff to the end of the main boom. That line mirrors what would be the leach of the mainsail, although such a line would never have been used on the real vessel.
 
Alternately, the model can be rigged as if the sail was not bent to the booms and the gaff boom simply lowered to just above the main boom and a lashing made between the end of the gaff boom and around the main boom below. In real life, that keeps the gaff boom from swinging back and forth. The upward tension is provided by the gaff halyard and tackle.
 
Some prefer to show the spars in their positions when sail is raised, but absent the sails. That does give an impression of what the rig looks like, absent the sails, but such an arrangement was never seen on the prototype ships as there wouldn't have ever been any point to it. Presentation is a matter of style and is up to the modeler to determine what looks best to them.

Bob
 
Thanks for a great review. Amazon won't ship it to the UK but I've ordered a copy from ebay. The only downside is that shipping adds another $35. I still think it'll be worth it.
 
I came across a description of Antonio's workshop some years ago in Milton Roth's book, Ship Modelling from Stem to Stern. I was greatly impressed by his use of mobile workstations, and although that's not practical in my workshop (which I'd already fitted out with fixed units)  I've used the idea in the garage. There I have four mobile benches of various sizes for different machines, including two 6' benches that I can line up when using my Syren Rope Rocket. When not in use they fit neatly against the back wall behind the cars.
 
Thanks again
 
Derek

Hi Kenna,
 
I suggest you pick up a copy of Antonio Mendez C.'s now-very-affordable book, William Frederick's (1874) Scale Journey: A Scratchbuilder's Evolutionary Development available on eBay and Amazon. I wrote a review of it. (Link below.) The late Mr. Mendez was an internationally recognized ship modeler of long standing who specialized in sailing models. His book is full of information on how to build model ships that actually sail. I'm not aware of any other books on that subject. There is, of course, much in his book that applies to static models, as well, but if you are interested in models that actually sail, this is the book that has all that. I'd strongly recommend that you get a copy and read up on the subject before starting to "chop wood." It will likely save you lots of time and frustration and ensure your build is top notch. 
 
As I'm sure others will also say to you, start small and work up to something like a Manila galleon. The most common mistake most ship modelers make is biting off more than they can chew on their first attempt. There's a learning curve to it, like anything else. (Don't believe the kit manufacturers' sales hype that "anyone can do it!") Start with a relatively simple fore and aft rigged sailing vessel and get the basics under your belt. Learn to play simple pieces before tackling Bach! 
 

Hi Kenna,
 
I suggest you pick up a copy of Antonio Mendez C.'s now-very-affordable book, William Frederick's (1874) Scale Journey: A Scratchbuilder's Evolutionary Development available on eBay and Amazon. I wrote a review of it. (Link below.) The late Mr. Mendez was an internationally recognized ship modeler of long standing who specialized in sailing models. His book is full of information on how to build model ships that actually sail. I'm not aware of any other books on that subject. There is, of course, much in his book that applies to static models, as well, but if you are interested in models that actually sail, this is the book that has all that. I'd strongly recommend that you get a copy and read up on the subject before starting to "chop wood." It will likely save you lots of time and frustration and ensure your build is top notch. 
 
As I'm sure others will also say to you, start small and work up to something like a Manila galleon. The most common mistake most ship modelers make is biting off more than they can chew on their first attempt. There's a learning curve to it, like anything else. (Don't believe the kit manufacturers' sales hype that "anyone can do it!") Start with a relatively simple fore and aft rigged sailing vessel and get the basics under your belt. Learn to play simple pieces before tackling Bach! 
 

fascinting stuff ! 

What a difference a small thing, like changing glue, can have on an outcome.... (Thanks, Druxey, for indirectly giving me the idea)
Some progress on the mullions, as of this morning. Switching to CA glue has helped restore some of my sanity, or, at the very least, cleared the air of the loud blue fog that shrouded my previous attempts.... 10 mullions done... 76(?) more to go... I think....
 
Andy

That's funny....
However, the best tool in the hands of the adequately unlearned, unskilled is just as apt to produce the same level of poorly executed golf game.   Or ship model, if you prefer to be on subject.
If my account of the time line is correct....I didn't install the *game changing* advantage until I had completed my project using the most  primitive of tools.  That would be a 5 lb sledge hammer and a fork....oh....and some Elmer's.
 
Rob(thanks for the best compliment ever)
 

Sometimes splitting isn't a bad thing when it comes to modeling wood. A split can ruin a good wide plank, but we're interested in smaller pieces. The split tells you where the grain is weakest. Let nature start the split and then bust the log apart with wedges driven into the split. That should give you a fairly flat side to start slabbing. You can take a  plane or draw knife to the flat where it split to level it off for laying on your saw table, if need be. That can save you a lot of possibly dangerous sawing on larger whole logs. While getting the most marketable lumber out of a log is an important financial consideration in commercial production, we have the luxury of using only the choicest portions of our raw timber.
 
Think of a log as a cone, not a cylinder. The trunk or branch is thinner at its extreme end. It tapers. If you slab without regard to that taper, you get "grain runout." You will be cutting across the grain as you square the log. Working with split wood ensures the billet won't have its grain running off at the edges. This causes problems sometimes with warping and always with planing. When working with small pieces, grain runout across a piece of plank stock, for example, can result in the strip snapping where the grain runs clear across the strip. If appearance of the grain is a consideration, it will cause problems if you are really anal about appearances, too. Particularly with masts and spars, it's always best to use a piece that has no significant grain runout. 

Not really, if used without a drill press stand. Dremels are great for grinding and cutting, but much less so for drilling. It's not egonomically designed for drilling. The problem becomes more apparent the smaller the drill bit diameter becomes. The weight of the Dremel motor and the way it has to be held makes holding the drill bit at any constant angle (e.g. 90 degrees) difficult. With small bits, a little bit of wobble and the bit is probably going to snap in two. Additionally, given the weight distribution, putting a bit exactly where you want it can be quite difficult for the same reason. The rigidity of the drill press is its greatest value.
 
Even though I have a couple of drill presses, when I'm not drilling repetitive holes in a row or where using a drill press isn't convenient, more often than not I use a pin vise or spiral drill to make small holes. https://www.amazon.com/SE-849PDS-Spiral-Drill-Spring/dp/B001HBY8KE  https://www.micromark.com/Pin-Vise-Drill-Bit-Set?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwbuNtdiv6QIVsiCtBh16Ug0nEAQYAyABEgIuKPD_BwE https://www.grainger.com/product/39EP70?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwbuNtdiv6QIVsiCtBh16Ug0nEAQYASABEgIoAfD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIwbuNtdiv6QIVsiCtBh16Ug0nEAQYASABEgIoAfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275552!!!g!470847567000! At fifteen or twenty-five bucks, it don't get much cheaper than that.
 
Instead of buying a low-quality Asian mini-drill press, one might also consider buying a decent Dremel motor and a Vanda-Lay Industries drill press or milling machine that holds a Dremel motor. In that fashion, you have a drill press, or a mill, and a separate Dremel motor for other applications. https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/ (Don't buy the Dremel brand drill press holder. It lacks the necessary stability.)
 
               
 
 
          
 
Vanda-Lay has recently expanded their product line with their Acra Mill Plus. I just have their drill press, which I often use with the Dremel turned sideways as just a "Dremel holder" so I can have both hands free for polishing and grinding tasks. It's plenty good for small work and quite accurate. (I have a full-size drill press, as well.) The Acra Mill Plus will do milling and now has attachments for use as a lathe and circular saw, although the cost does add up as you add optional attachments. The real limitation of this tool system is the Dremel motor, which depends upon speed rather than torque and therefore has power limitations. These aren't replacements for serious dedicated highly accurate machine tools, but they come close enough for modeling work at a much lower price point. 
 
For a few bucks more, forget the Dremel motor and spring for a Foredom flex shaft tool.  https://www.foredom.net/product-category/flex-shaft-tools/  (Beware of the Asian knock-offs for a third the price.) These are the "gold standard" for rotary tool systems and, with proper care, will be enjoyed by your grandson long after you're gone. Vanda-Lay tells me they can provide the holder parts which will hold a one-inch diameter Foredom handpiece in their machining systems instead of any of the Dremel and other moto-tool motors. 
 
Now, a Foredom flex shaft machine and the Vanda-Lay Acra Mill and all its attachments will set you back somewhere in the neighborhood of a grand, which ain't chump change, but I don't know a less expensive option for a high quality fully-capable modeling machine shop, nor a more compact one. (Their drill press is $134.95) and they have a free shipping deal now, I believe.) There are more powerful and more highly accurate dedicated machines with greater complexity, but in comparison, I think the Vanda-Lay system really does give you the most bang for your buck and you can buy the various attachments over time as you grow into it. 
 
Usual disclaimer: I don't have any financial interest in Vanda-Lay. I just have found them to be a high quality product for what they are and their personal service is as close as my keyboard or phone. Nice people. Small family business. A lot like Jim Byrnes' products and service.
 
 
 
 

Not really, if used without a drill press stand. Dremels are great for grinding and cutting, but much less so for drilling. It's not egonomically designed for drilling. The problem becomes more apparent the smaller the drill bit diameter becomes. The weight of the Dremel motor and the way it has to be held makes holding the drill bit at any constant angle (e.g. 90 degrees) difficult. With small bits, a little bit of wobble and the bit is probably going to snap in two. Additionally, given the weight distribution, putting a bit exactly where you want it can be quite difficult for the same reason. The rigidity of the drill press is its greatest value.
 
Even though I have a couple of drill presses, when I'm not drilling repetitive holes in a row or where using a drill press isn't convenient, more often than not I use a pin vise or spiral drill to make small holes. https://www.amazon.com/SE-849PDS-Spiral-Drill-Spring/dp/B001HBY8KE  https://www.micromark.com/Pin-Vise-Drill-Bit-Set?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwbuNtdiv6QIVsiCtBh16Ug0nEAQYAyABEgIuKPD_BwE https://www.grainger.com/product/39EP70?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwbuNtdiv6QIVsiCtBh16Ug0nEAQYASABEgIoAfD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIwbuNtdiv6QIVsiCtBh16Ug0nEAQYASABEgIoAfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275552!!!g!470847567000! At fifteen or twenty-five bucks, it don't get much cheaper than that.
 
Instead of buying a low-quality Asian mini-drill press, one might also consider buying a decent Dremel motor and a Vanda-Lay Industries drill press or milling machine that holds a Dremel motor. In that fashion, you have a drill press, or a mill, and a separate Dremel motor for other applications. https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/ (Don't buy the Dremel brand drill press holder. It lacks the necessary stability.)
 
               
 
 
          
 
Vanda-Lay has recently expanded their product line with their Acra Mill Plus. I just have their drill press, which I often use with the Dremel turned sideways as just a "Dremel holder" so I can have both hands free for polishing and grinding tasks. It's plenty good for small work and quite accurate. (I have a full-size drill press, as well.) The Acra Mill Plus will do milling and now has attachments for use as a lathe and circular saw, although the cost does add up as you add optional attachments. The real limitation of this tool system is the Dremel motor, which depends upon speed rather than torque and therefore has power limitations. These aren't replacements for serious dedicated highly accurate machine tools, but they come close enough for modeling work at a much lower price point. 
 
For a few bucks more, forget the Dremel motor and spring for a Foredom flex shaft tool.  https://www.foredom.net/product-category/flex-shaft-tools/  (Beware of the Asian knock-offs for a third the price.) These are the "gold standard" for rotary tool systems and, with proper care, will be enjoyed by your grandson long after you're gone. Vanda-Lay tells me they can provide the holder parts which will hold a one-inch diameter Foredom handpiece in their machining systems instead of any of the Dremel and other moto-tool motors. 
 
Now, a Foredom flex shaft machine and the Vanda-Lay Acra Mill and all its attachments will set you back somewhere in the neighborhood of a grand, which ain't chump change, but I don't know a less expensive option for a high quality fully-capable modeling machine shop, nor a more compact one. (Their drill press is $134.95) and they have a free shipping deal now, I believe.) There are more powerful and more highly accurate dedicated machines with greater complexity, but in comparison, I think the Vanda-Lay system really does give you the most bang for your buck and you can buy the various attachments over time as you grow into it. 
 
Usual disclaimer: I don't have any financial interest in Vanda-Lay. I just have found them to be a high quality product for what they are and their personal service is as close as my keyboard or phone. Nice people. Small family business. A lot like Jim Byrnes' products and service.
 
 
 
 

Well, that explains it all! And all this time, I thought you were just a great ship modeler. It's sort of like picking up a guy at the clubhouse to fill out a foursome and finding out on the fifth hole that he's Tiger Woods in disguise!  

Well, that explains it all! And all this time, I thought you were just a great ship modeler. It's sort of like picking up a guy at the clubhouse to fill out a foursome and finding out on the fifth hole that he's Tiger Woods in disguise!  

Oh, and I almost forgot: check out my new toy! A Swiss drawknife!
 

Sometimes splitting isn't a bad thing when it comes to modeling wood. A split can ruin a good wide plank, but we're interested in smaller pieces. The split tells you where the grain is weakest. Let nature start the split and then bust the log apart with wedges driven into the split. That should give you a fairly flat side to start slabbing. You can take a  plane or draw knife to the flat where it split to level it off for laying on your saw table, if need be. That can save you a lot of possibly dangerous sawing on larger whole logs. While getting the most marketable lumber out of a log is an important financial consideration in commercial production, we have the luxury of using only the choicest portions of our raw timber.
 
Think of a log as a cone, not a cylinder. The trunk or branch is thinner at its extreme end. It tapers. If you slab without regard to that taper, you get "grain runout." You will be cutting across the grain as you square the log. Working with split wood ensures the billet won't have its grain running off at the edges. This causes problems sometimes with warping and always with planing. When working with small pieces, grain runout across a piece of plank stock, for example, can result in the strip snapping where the grain runs clear across the strip. If appearance of the grain is a consideration, it will cause problems if you are really anal about appearances, too. Particularly with masts and spars, it's always best to use a piece that has no significant grain runout. 

Tom, Thanks for sharing all the photos. I just looked through them again and all of a sudden I noticed the age range of the group.  Maybe it is that the younger modelers are still working and could not get the time to attend, maybe not.   I have no answer, but I do wonder how we can get more "youngsters" involved so the art does not die with the next couple generations.   In this age of electronics, internet  and fast results desired in the things they do, this may be a difficult thing.   Maybe those here that are more in tune with social media can think of ways to get some interest from the "kids" out there.   We have thousands of potential mentors here, just need more students.  
Allan

Chris, 
No Proxxon here but tend to run the mill at the fastest speed for wood with a very slow feed and sharp bit. 

Mark
I use what I think is a simple method.  As shown in the sketch, I drill the hole for the eyebolt, then bend up the end of the eyebolt as shown, insert into the hole (usually I can feel the bent portion clear, if not shorten the bend til I do) test by pulling on the eyebolt, it loks it self in place and h=ave never had one fail or come out.
 
Good luck
Tom

Hi Mark
 
I've just seen this topic and thought I'd add my two penn'orth.
 
I tried a tip I read in one of Harold Underhill's books where he recommends putting a thread on the tail of the eyebolt then screwing it into the deck or wherever. I found a cheap jeweller's tap & die set on ebay for £14.99 and tried it on a brass eyebolt with a 0.7mm tail.

The thread went on no problem (I found the best technique was to screw the eyebolt half a turn into the die each time then unscrew to release any swarf; half a dozen turns was plenty). The resulting thread was so fine I had to run my finger over it to check it was actually there, but once I'd drilled a hole one size smaller (#71; 0.66mm) I found it screwed in easily, cutting its own thread in the wood, and the result was as solid as a rock. I'll definitely be using that technique from now on. I guess you could use glue as well if you wanted to be doubly sure.
 
Derek, UK
 

Try making your eyebolt by twisting a piece of wire around the appropriate diameter drill bit to give the correct ID.  This leaves you with a "pig tail" rather than a single piece of wire to insert into the deck.  Drill the hole in the deck slightly smaller than required and then screw the "pig tail" in to the hole after applying a little two-part epoxy.  This gives a lot more surface area for the epoxy to take hold. 

Some years ago we had a scratch builder that did that.  I think he was in Germany and basically, whenever he went for a walk (daily I think) he kept his eyes open for the fallen branches.  

There is a sound reason why the commissioned model construction standards for most all major museums in the world require all parts on a model to be mechanically fastened and not just glued in place. Mechanical fastenings are far stronger than glue alone. Tiny wooden pegs joining the pieces and ("trunnels") set in glue or shellac will hold well for a long, long time. Adhesives alone, not so much.