Bob Cleek

That makes two of us. Apparently, they are indeed what we call "burrs." I wasn't able to find any reference to them as "stump cutters." All Google gave me were advertisements for tree stump removal and tree services.  

At the risk of thread drift, I'll mention that I've found the cheap and readily available magnetic dishes used by auto mechanics to hold small parts are really very handy around the shop. I've got four of them here and there and I try to keep in the habit of using them to hold nuts, bolts, screws, and the like whenever I'm working on taking things apart and the like. They've saved me tons of time that otherwise would have been spent on my hands and knees searching for parts that went walkabout of their own accord. I can't bring myself to criticize a single thing about my Byrnes tools, but I'll "mention in passing" that using them often entails the removal of small grub screws and tiny flathead bolts which make having the factory "replacement parts set" on hand reassuring. 
 
Three bucks from Harbor Freight: 4" Magnetic Parts Tray (harborfreight.com)
 
 

I never could figure out the topmasts on this model. There's just no explanation for going to the trouble of building all the top hamper necessary for fidded topmasts that are so short above the lower mast. You'd think a sane boatbuilder would have simply made the lower masts a bit longer and saved themself a lot of trouble. I wonder if somebody somewhere along the way decided to "bob" the topmasts in order to get them inside a room or something. Those topmasts sure do catch the eye.
 
Stubby little things and who knows where the foresail gaff boom came from... or goes to? The spreaders, rather than trestle trees, seem somewhat incongruous, as do only two shrouds to a side per mast.  It's true, though, that there are only two chainplates to a side per mast, which is a good indication of the original rig. From that, I'd guess it was originally a rather simple bald-headed working schooner rig. 
 
My inner detective causes me to suspect that this rig was rebuilt at some point prior to the latest restoration. Perhaps she was originally much more simply rigged as a pond model and later on somebody decided to turn her into a display model by giving her a much more extreme and complicated rig. 
 

 

At the risk of thread drift, I'll mention that I've found the cheap and readily available magnetic dishes used by auto mechanics to hold small parts are really very handy around the shop. I've got four of them here and there and I try to keep in the habit of using them to hold nuts, bolts, screws, and the like whenever I'm working on taking things apart and the like. They've saved me tons of time that otherwise would have been spent on my hands and knees searching for parts that went walkabout of their own accord. I can't bring myself to criticize a single thing about my Byrnes tools, but I'll "mention in passing" that using them often entails the removal of small grub screws and tiny flathead bolts which make having the factory "replacement parts set" on hand reassuring. 
 
Three bucks from Harbor Freight: 4" Magnetic Parts Tray (harborfreight.com)
 
 

Good idea Roger.  I got tied of searching for the pin and after I had to make a replacement pin I drilled through the center as shown by the RED arrow and tethered it to the miter gauge with some flexible, multi strand (7) stainless steel jewelers wire - so I couldn't drop it!.  There is a small loop that the screw used to lock the gauge adjustment secures to the gauge - GREEN arrow -  with the other end looped through the pin.  Jewelers crimps secure the ends of the wire to the wire - they will not come undone.
Before I get a bunch of cautions regarding the wire and the saw blade I considered this carefully and experience has shown that the wire is just stiff enough that it will not flop over to the right due to the pinching of the wire by the gauges locking screw - with the knurled knob.  I have used this set up for over 10 years w/o a problem.  If I ever have a need to undo the wire from where it is held under the screw I will probably shorten the wire a bit.  I made it long so I would not have a problem with it being in the way when using the miter gauge but it has proven to be absolutely no problem - and if anybody checks with me in another 10 years I will probably never have actually followed through with shortening the wire.
I have never regretted using the wire and from past experience I know I have saved a lot of time.
I have never had a need to use the miter gauge to the right of the blade and the extended miter bar will not allow me to do so without it's removal and I am sure I would reverse the wire's positioning to go to the opposite side of the blade.  That is when I will shorten the wire for sure!
Kurt

I was wondering what 'stump cutters' were ... I gather they are called 'burrs' around here and in the jewellers trade.
 
The carbon-steel ones come in dozens of different shapes and sizes. There are also carbide ones, but the size and shape range is smaller.
 
It can be worthwhile to also look into the dentists' and related range. They come from the same manufacturers, e.g. Busch in Germany.
 

@Bob Cleek Thanks for the thorough explanation. You've opened my eyes to new possibilities for paint I didn't see before. I appreciate the response.

Do you mean this patch: 
 
Indeed, refer to my prior posts on using tubed artists' oils (or acrylics, if you wish) for model painting. Easily used and ounce for ounce, far, far less expensive. You don't have to store tons of bottles full of hardening expensive paint colors, either. 

The mitre bar, extended fence are essential, the cross cut table is of great benefit and a must. Zero clearance inserts are handy, but I seldom use it. The 3 inch, 90T, .03 slitting blade is all I ever use. I’d get a couple of those. I have the micro meter stop and never ever use it.  I’ve had my saw since 2008 and never replaced the belt. The other might be useful, but not for me. 

I would buy the auxiliary pack and extra belt although I have used my Saw for many years without having to replace the belt.  The screws that hold down the insert plates are tiny and easy to lose.  I have the micrometer stop and always never use it.  I like the 3in 90 tooth blade for cutting wood.  I also have a very fine, sorry, I don’t know the tooth count, blade for cutting brass sheet and tubing.  I have a 10in table saw so don’t use the Byrnes saw for cutting heavy wood stock.  Zero clearance inserts are easily made from thin craft plywood.
 
Before you use the saw-  Paint the miter pin a bright color!  Mine is painted Day-Glow orange.  I have dropped it many times and would have lost it if it was not painted.
 
Roger

Continued from previous post...
 
The Loading Dock
 

 

 

 
The Main Dock
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
That completes the series of "glam" shots and brings this project to a close. I'd like to thank all of you who have followed along and offered support, encouragement and advice along the way. This has been a most enjoyable diversion into this style of modelling and I've learned a lot along the way. i do have another of these kits in my stash (Foss's Landing), but I've got a ship or two to build first.
 
Stay tuned for the next exciting adventure!
 

Highly recommended! The two Shop Notes volumes should be on every modeler's shelf. Two of the most valuable books on the subject around.
 
That said, it can't be all that difficult to match a gray. Use a clean small bottle of suitable size and with a tight cap to hold your paint. (You may add a few "B-B's" (round air rifle shot) to the jar which will serve as agitators when you shake the capped bottle to mix your paint.) Use large hypodermic syringes for measuring, one for each color and oil, thinner, or dryer you'll be using. These are for accurate measuring of the amounts you will be mixing. Write down the exact amounts you use to mix your paint as you add them! Start with white. Add a very slight smidgen of Prussian blue to that and mix well. (You should premix the individual colors before mixing, thinning each with an equal proportion of thinner, etc., so a small measure of one will equal the same proportion of paint, thinner, and dryer as an equal measure of the other.) Then progressively add black in small amounts, mixing well, (and a bit more blue if necessary) until you get close, but slightly lighter than what you want to match because paint tends to dry darker than it looks when wet. Paint a test paint "chip" on clear card stock and let it dry. Compare it to your prototype sample to test for the color match. If it's too light, add a bit of black (and/or blue,) and repeat the card test until you achieve the exact match you desire. Sneak up on it, though. Don't overdue adding color to the white. If you "go too far," and your gray is too dark, add more white paint gradually until you achieve your desired match. When you've got your match, add up all the measurements you've written down for each ingredient you've used in your mixing and write these totals for each ingredient on the reverse side of the index card you used for your successful color match. Be sure to also record the exact brand and stock name or number of each ingredient. (If you are really anal, you may want to do the same for each test "chip" index card you prepare as you "sneak up on your color match in case you might want a particular lighter (or darker) color in the color range you're working in.) Save these "paint recipe" index cards in an index card box. If you want to mix the same color again, you've got the recipe and if you want something lighter or darker, you can "sneak up" on that color a lot faster with a "head start" from your recipe cards.
 
If you are really, really anal, you can identify your paint colors using the Munsell Color Standards System, which, if memory serves, is addressed at great length in Ship Modelers' Shop Notes, Volume II. See: Color Matching & Identification; Munsell Color | Munsell Color System; Color Matching from Munsell Color Company This identifying system is the industrial standard for identifying, describing, and mixing colors. 
 
Two warnings about mixing paint to match: Firstly, if you are mixing colors you should do so under "daylight" if at all possible. Artificial light other than "daylight" bulbs will affect the color you perceive when looking at it under such artificial light. Secondly, while the colors you mix may appear one way to you, it is quite possble they may appear differently to someone else because not everyone's eyes perceive color the same way. Only by matching colors can you be sure they are the same and if you are "color blind," even then you may be out ot luck!

It is the ensign staff. Certainly it should be tapered and have a small cap on top with a sheave cut through for the ensign halliard. Look at contemporary models and paintings to see examples of these.

Highly recommended! The two Shop Notes volumes should be on every modeler's shelf. Two of the most valuable books on the subject around.
 
That said, it can't be all that difficult to match a gray. Use a clean small bottle of suitable size and with a tight cap to hold your paint. (You may add a few "B-B's" (round air rifle shot) to the jar which will serve as agitators when you shake the capped bottle to mix your paint.) Use large hypodermic syringes for measuring, one for each color and oil, thinner, or dryer you'll be using. These are for accurate measuring of the amounts you will be mixing. Write down the exact amounts you use to mix your paint as you add them! Start with white. Add a very slight smidgen of Prussian blue to that and mix well. (You should premix the individual colors before mixing, thinning each with an equal proportion of thinner, etc., so a small measure of one will equal the same proportion of paint, thinner, and dryer as an equal measure of the other.) Then progressively add black in small amounts, mixing well, (and a bit more blue if necessary) until you get close, but slightly lighter than what you want to match because paint tends to dry darker than it looks when wet. Paint a test paint "chip" on clear card stock and let it dry. Compare it to your prototype sample to test for the color match. If it's too light, add a bit of black (and/or blue,) and repeat the card test until you achieve the exact match you desire. Sneak up on it, though. Don't overdue adding color to the white. If you "go too far," and your gray is too dark, add more white paint gradually until you achieve your desired match. When you've got your match, add up all the measurements you've written down for each ingredient you've used in your mixing and write these totals for each ingredient on the reverse side of the index card you used for your successful color match. Be sure to also record the exact brand and stock name or number of each ingredient. (If you are really anal, you may want to do the same for each test "chip" index card you prepare as you "sneak up on your color match in case you might want a particular lighter (or darker) color in the color range you're working in.) Save these "paint recipe" index cards in an index card box. If you want to mix the same color again, you've got the recipe and if you want something lighter or darker, you can "sneak up" on that color a lot faster with a "head start" from your recipe cards.
 
If you are really, really anal, you can identify your paint colors using the Munsell Color Standards System, which, if memory serves, is addressed at great length in Ship Modelers' Shop Notes, Volume II. See: Color Matching & Identification; Munsell Color | Munsell Color System; Color Matching from Munsell Color Company This identifying system is the industrial standard for identifying, describing, and mixing colors. 
 
Two warnings about mixing paint to match: Firstly, if you are mixing colors you should do so under "daylight" if at all possible. Artificial light other than "daylight" bulbs will affect the color you perceive when looking at it under such artificial light. Secondly, while the colors you mix may appear one way to you, it is quite possble they may appear differently to someone else because not everyone's eyes perceive color the same way. Only by matching colors can you be sure they are the same and if you are "color blind," even then you may be out ot luck!

Do you mean this patch: 
 
Indeed, refer to my prior posts on using tubed artists' oils (or acrylics, if you wish) for model painting. Easily used and ounce for ounce, far, far less expensive. You don't have to store tons of bottles full of hardening expensive paint colors, either. 

Do you mean this patch: 
 
Indeed, refer to my prior posts on using tubed artists' oils (or acrylics, if you wish) for model painting. Easily used and ounce for ounce, far, far less expensive. You don't have to store tons of bottles full of hardening expensive paint colors, either. 

I don't wish to horn in on Bob Cleek's patch  @Bob Cleek ,  but it appears that the expensive model specific brands and lines are subject to whim and fad.  
If you are serious, the convenience of water based paint and a synthetic binder may be an illusion when the equation has reached its final solution.
A safer and more dependable route would be to go with enamel paint and go to the source.  A tube of artist's oil from a quality line has the proper pigment particle size, can be easily diluted, used for brush or spray application, and be available when needed.   Plus a long shelf life.
This companies line has 4 greys = https://www.dickblick.com/products/gamblin-artists-oil-colors/?Size=37 ml (1.25 oz)&
Doing a custom mix - it would probably be wise to produce a lot more than the estimated need.
This is too late for your present project, but the next one.....
Bob has some in depth directions on site that should come up with a search.
 

Sorry, there has been little activity in the shipyard as of late...but as summer comes in full strength.....summer projects and holidays are  numerous.
My study and research continues through....so hang in there.  I'm working out the method I will use for the iron stanchion/railings.  The easiest and fastes method will, of course, win out.....but, it still takes careful thought.
 
Rob

I wouldn't bet on it not being noticeable, particularly when the rest of the furniture is installed. 34 inches is the rule of thumb because when a boat heels under sail, the sink has to be at least that height to be useable when the sink is on the leeward side. Many galleys have "butt belts" the user can employ to strap themselves in or even bars that drop in behind the user that can be used as a seat or to brace against in a seaway. A sink that much lower would be noticed by an experienced seaman. It might not be that big of a deal in an RV that sits level, but not in a boat that may be sailing on her ear half the time.
 
Additionally, it looks like the sink is going to be below the waterline even at 34 inches and so it needs all the height it can get to make space for the sink drain elbow, hand pump, and the attendant plumbing with an anti-siphon loop and check valve.
 
I wouldn't have bothered to comment on something I realize many would think was picky, but this model has been so perfectly done, I, for one at least, would hate to see a compromise like this one, even if you had to look inside to see it.  
 
That said, I trust Michael's impeccable judgment in the matter.

I never could figure out the topmasts on this model. There's just no explanation for going to the trouble of building all the top hamper necessary for fidded topmasts that are so short above the lower mast. You'd think a sane boatbuilder would have simply made the lower masts a bit longer and saved themself a lot of trouble. I wonder if somebody somewhere along the way decided to "bob" the topmasts in order to get them inside a room or something. Those topmasts sure do catch the eye.
 
Stubby little things and who knows where the foresail gaff boom came from... or goes to? The spreaders, rather than trestle trees, seem somewhat incongruous, as do only two shrouds to a side per mast.  It's true, though, that there are only two chainplates to a side per mast, which is a good indication of the original rig. From that, I'd guess it was originally a rather simple bald-headed working schooner rig. 
 
My inner detective causes me to suspect that this rig was rebuilt at some point prior to the latest restoration. Perhaps she was originally much more simply rigged as a pond model and later on somebody decided to turn her into a display model by giving her a much more extreme and complicated rig. 
 

 

I never could figure out the topmasts on this model. There's just no explanation for going to the trouble of building all the top hamper necessary for fidded topmasts that are so short above the lower mast. You'd think a sane boatbuilder would have simply made the lower masts a bit longer and saved themself a lot of trouble. I wonder if somebody somewhere along the way decided to "bob" the topmasts in order to get them inside a room or something. Those topmasts sure do catch the eye.
 
Stubby little things and who knows where the foresail gaff boom came from... or goes to? The spreaders, rather than trestle trees, seem somewhat incongruous, as do only two shrouds to a side per mast.  It's true, though, that there are only two chainplates to a side per mast, which is a good indication of the original rig. From that, I'd guess it was originally a rather simple bald-headed working schooner rig. 
 
My inner detective causes me to suspect that this rig was rebuilt at some point prior to the latest restoration. Perhaps she was originally much more simply rigged as a pond model and later on somebody decided to turn her into a display model by giving her a much more extreme and complicated rig. 
 

 

A lot depends upon the scale of the model and the details of the sternpost, gudgeons, pintles, rudder. Those variables are going to determine the best solution for fastening.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by "there is usually little clearance between the two." There shouldn't be any clearance between a gudgeon and a pintle when the pintle is slid down into the gudgeon. Maybe a picture would be a big help.
 
If the gudgeons are attached to the sternpost and the pintles to the rudder in the same manner as in full-size construction, the rudder should slide right down with the pintles sliding right into the gudgeons. The pintles should be sized to match the gudgeons. Sometimes it helps to file the tips of the pintles a bit round to get them sliding into the gudgeons easily. Like any hinge mounting, a good fit is going to demand that the positioning of the pintles and gudgeons are accurate.
 
Alternately, you can always attach the gudgeons to the pintles and then mount the rudder to the rudderpost using the pintle tangs glued to the rudderpost (and preferably pinned to the rudder post, if your scale permits.  Another approach is to "fake" the pintles and gudgeons mounted together on the rudder, wrap strips of paper where the gudgeon tangs should go on the rudderpost (or a bit of copper strip, depending on what suits the scale, then drill and glue pegs into the forward side of the gudgeons and drill holes through the tang on the rudder post and glue the rudder to the post with the pins in the holes. That will give you a rudder fixed to the rudder post with invisible pins or pegs which appears like the rudder is hung on the gudgeons. And again, you can dispense with the separate pintle and gudgeon entirely and just take a bit of dowel or rod the length of each pintle and gudgeon and score a line around its circumference at the middle. Attach your faux tangs for the pintles and gudgeons, glue the "pintle + gudgeon" pieces to the rudder, drill a hole through them into the rudder, glue a pin in that through into the rudder and then drill holes for the pins in the rudder post and glue the rudder in place. That should in smaller scales give you a neat appearing rudder attachment that is quite strong. Keep in mind that rudders are one of the more vulnerable parts of a model and are prone to getting whacked when the model is being worked on or moved. The stronger the attachment the better!

I pin (with steel pins glued in place) my rudders to the rudder post and fake the iron banding with pieces of card.
 
It prevents them from moving and thus getting broken in the future.

Totally agree.  If done this way I have never had a problem sliding the rudder in place.  A number of kits provide the hardware but some are way out of scale so may be this is part of the problem.   You may find some useful information from the below example from the original contract  for Elephant (74) 1786 for that particular size vessel.    Picture and a 1000 words, etc. showing the rother of the Elephant below
 
ROTHER                       The Rother-head to be made long enough to receive a Tiller above the Upper Deck, to be strapped and hooped with Iron as usual, to be 2 feet 2 inches Thwartships: Fore and Aft 2 feet 4 inches, and 5 feet 6 inches broad at the lower End, and 4 feet 6 inches at the lower Hance height above the Deck as the Draught shall Direct. To be well made, the Pieces tabled to each other, and all but the Main and Bearding Pieces, to be Fir.   To have 7 Pair of Rother Irons, the upper brace to have long Straps, that may turn and meet round the Post.  The second Brace 4 feet 6 inches long from the Rabbit, the lower one from the Back of the Post 7 feet; to be hung Flemish Fashion, and well secured with Chocks above Water to prevent its unhanging.                                                                                                                 The Pintles to be 3⅜ inches diameter, all of them to be 1 foot 1½   inches long, except the lower one, that to be 1 foot 3½  inches long; the Straps of the Rother Braces and Pintles to be 4½  inches broad, and 2 inches thick in the Shoulder of the Return, and to have an iron strap on the Back of the Rother, and a Ring Bolt with two Rings by 1⅞ inches diameter drove through the Rother; the Rings of sufficient bigness; and to have an Eye bolt on each Side at the Ends of the Wing Transom, with Bolts of 1¼  inches diameter for the Rother Tackles, that all, both Braces and Pintles be carefully let in, that the Irons bear an equal Strain, that every Pintle and Brace have Bolts in the strap as close to the Shoulder as may be, drove through with a Saucer-head, and well clenched on the other side, the hole for the Tiller in the Rotherhead to be cut both that above & below the Upper Deck of equal bigness, square on the foreside 11⅛ inch on the aft side 10 inches that the same Tiller may fit either hole.  The Bearding of the Rother, between the Pintles and Back of the Stern Post, to be covered with Lead turned and nailed on the Sides; also to Lead the Helm Port, as is done in His Majesty’s Yards.

 

I wouldn't bet on it not being noticeable, particularly when the rest of the furniture is installed. 34 inches is the rule of thumb because when a boat heels under sail, the sink has to be at least that height to be useable when the sink is on the leeward side. Many galleys have "butt belts" the user can employ to strap themselves in or even bars that drop in behind the user that can be used as a seat or to brace against in a seaway. A sink that much lower would be noticed by an experienced seaman. It might not be that big of a deal in an RV that sits level, but not in a boat that may be sailing on her ear half the time.
 
Additionally, it looks like the sink is going to be below the waterline even at 34 inches and so it needs all the height it can get to make space for the sink drain elbow, hand pump, and the attendant plumbing with an anti-siphon loop and check valve.
 
I wouldn't have bothered to comment on something I realize many would think was picky, but this model has been so perfectly done, I, for one at least, would hate to see a compromise like this one, even if you had to look inside to see it.  
 
That said, I trust Michael's impeccable judgment in the matter.