md1400cs
-
Posts
2,819 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by md1400cs
-
Keith, Thanks for your nice words. It will be a while before I get "good" with this new toy, but I have found that on the other side of our world (the scratch build folks) You know, where a lot of "Michelangelos" of this art exist; they seem to do a lot with milling machines. If you have not; check out, as an example, Alexandru's HMS Victory. His texts and pics are great. He has the MF 70. Heck, forget about the milling tool on his build, you will be astonished by his art. It does not (no-wrong wording) it cannot get any better. Regards, Michael Michael -
Ling, Yes you are right. Thanks there are distinctions. I pulled this out of an online nautical term dictionary. CHAIN-PLATES. Thick iron plates bolted to the ship's sides, and to which the chains and dead-eyes that support the masts by the shrouds are connected. CHAINS, or CHANNELS, or CHAINWALES. Broad thick planks, bolted edgeways against the ship's sides, abreast and abaft the masts, used to extend the shrouds from each other, and from the head of the masts. The Vasa used wood channels. Thanks for the clarification. Michael
-
Hi everyone, Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70. Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries. The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish. The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution. I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics. After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines. Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool. Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates. A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in. Regards, Michael
-
Mark, Came out so beautifully. Looks excellent. PS: Every time I look at your Vasa, it still amazes me how you did those white scallopings on the galleries. Michael
-
Ulises, SO nice of you thanks. Very much appreciated. But rigging may be my Achilles heal. I will certainly NOT reach your level of art. MIchael
-
Mark, Thanks. I know that you spent a lot of time with those railings, My mindset was that it was with the milling tool. However your time sure was well spent those metal railings they look so original to the 1:1. Didn't know about all of that plywood, sort of cost cutting on their part .Too bad. But, your build sure is coming out beautifully. Michael
-
Nigel, Thanks, so nice of you to look back in for a response. I have decided to add the two missing longitudinal planks. For the fix I also want to also try out the milling tool, I just need to figure out how to brace long thin strips of wood to add a groove to the two long trim pieces (see pic below). The idea is to emulate the 1/10th. That yellow piece in the pic is what I would like it to look like. However the trim pieces are only 3 mm wide, and some 50 mm long, so my lack of any skills with this new mill may cause a bit of frustration. Alternatively I will just forgo the grooves. Regards, Michael
-
Mark. I have a question, if you don't mind. I think that you mentioned that you added a ridge on your deck railings using your Proxxon milling machine? What did you use to attach the long strips as you were rotating the lateral wheel to get that perfect looking ridge? PS: Your railings look so excellent. Regards, Michael
-
Hi Everyone, revised posting from yesterday's Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations. Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error. The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix. Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here. Regards, Michael
-
Nigel, No need to waffle, as you might have assumed I'm looking forward to visiting your new build log. Michael
-
Ulises, I keep repeating myself.your rigging details and work are outstanding. Your rope making skills are excellent. congrats! Do you have rigging plans for the running rigging, as well as what Corel provides for standing rigging.? Regards, Michael
-
Nigel, Thanks Oh my it's 2:20 a.m. where you are in the UK as you responded. Must be that black tea keeping you up, or is it your SOS (:-) Michael
-
John, Nice update. I note that you really get around and have visited several ships, very nice. Good for you. One day I need to get to the East coast, several ships that must be great to board. Michael
- 2,250 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- model shipways
- Charles W Morgan
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi Lawrence, Thanks, yes it is a great gift one that I will use for a long time. Certainly a "must have" kind of tool for detailed work. I'm looking forward to learning how to use it. In regards to your question, My son noticed that I was getting much more "serious" with this hobby as this build progressed. He also noted that I had been purchasing some tools here and there. So he asked me what else I had on my shopping list. The MF 70 was the last on the list. As they say how your structure a list could come back to haunt you (:-) His mom told me that he actually intended to surprise me an iPad Air, but I had gotten one a few weeks ago (I was still tugging along with a first generation antique). So he needed to fill the gap. Perfect! Funnily enough he has absolutely no interest in this hobby, but he appreciates the effort and time involved. Thanks for asking, very kind. Regards, Michael
-
Dave, Made a second pot of coffee and went through you log. Very nice, the amount of details that you have added through your excellent research is paying of handsomely. Beautiful build. Glad I found your log after you dropped in on mine. Kudos to your work Regards, Michael PS: As many have, I also built the Revell Constitution so many years ago. Interestingly enough the revel kit still stands up today as a plastic kit.
- 601 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- constitution
- revell
- (and 1 more)
-
Dave, Funny thank. I then linked on your Constitution log. WHOA beautiful work. I will now follow your build. Very creative work. I'm happy that you dropped by and posted. Michael
-
B.E. Thanks, no I did not get the Proxxon bits. I do, however have four end bits that range from .8 mm to 2.mm. I got these through an Amazon vendor in Israel. They seem to be of very good quality. I will look for the larger ones through Proxxon thanks for the tip. PS: Do you have this as well? I'm tempted. I know that you are very happy with your MF70 from Proxxon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029VQO58/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Michael
-
Not an update, but my favorite son (we only have one child) got his dad an early Christmas present. It showed up yesterday. Hmmmm so happy. I think that my need for tools is over, now just more ships (:-) Presently working on the Vasa chain plates. Regards, Michael
-
Matti, NIce. YOUR Billings is so close to the 1/10th. Good work. Nice build. Michael
-
Andre, Your milling machine work is very accurate. Nice work. Thanks for mentioning me in your idea. Nice of you. Very nice paint work on your lions looking very good. You now gave me inspiration for how to paint mine. I will follow your example. Thanks Michael
-
ancre Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
md1400cs replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Cabrapente, Your latest updates are so excellent. Even at extreme camera lens close-ups (something that I fear) your work becomes intoxicatingly even more beautiful. You are a great artist Con gran respeto Michael -
Gil, YES thanks for all of the above. So nice of you to share in great detail. I'm sure many of us have learned "a bunch" just from just your last two posts. Regards, Michael
-
Thanks much appreciated. It is amazing. Its restoration/resurrection opens such a great window into the 1600s for us modelers and the public in general The Vasa is soo up your alley. Your build would be so excellent. PS: if you go for that sunken treasure, Corel is the weakest in regard to accuracy, as you probably noted being a fan of that ship. MJD
-
AJ, Hi. Just discovered your build log. Very very nice, your attention to small details is very excellent. I will enjoy following along. Regards, Michael
- 304 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- niagra
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Mark, yes very clear follow up. Much appreciated. Excellent solution. Very creative on your part. This never even occurred to me whoa (:-) These will look very close to the original on the 1/10th as well as the 1:1 I think that when you add the ropes to your deadeyes the off center holes will mostly visually disappear. Thanks for the extra pics. Michael
Our Emblem ®
