md1400cs

Hello Everyone,
 
I became a bit frustrated, so I thought I would share a solution that has certainly been thought of before, but for me, as a "newbie" still reinventing the wheel Hmmmm
 
 I decided to loosely pre-install the ropes into the deadeyes before mounting them to the channels. My first fingered attempt was fated to succumb to an obvious half hour of frustration (first pic). Which was, as it turned out, the catalyst that I needed to head downstairs for some nurturing music as well as something to quench my frustration understandably so - no?.
 
So, having regained a sense of perspective I dropped any further similar attempts at threading the deadeyes by fingers, and thought that some sort of a jig would be helpful.
 
Here are some initial photos in this regard. I hope that this post is not redundant for most of you, but I thought that I would none-the-less share. As we all know Never throw out scrap pieces of wood.
 
A now more peaceful,
 
Michael

Hello Everyone,
 
I became a bit frustrated, so I thought I would share a solution that has certainly been thought of before, but for me, as a "newbie" still reinventing the wheel Hmmmm
 
 I decided to loosely pre-install the ropes into the deadeyes before mounting them to the channels. My first fingered attempt was fated to succumb to an obvious half hour of frustration (first pic). Which was, as it turned out, the catalyst that I needed to head downstairs for some nurturing music as well as something to quench my frustration understandably so - no?.
 
So, having regained a sense of perspective I dropped any further similar attempts at threading the deadeyes by fingers, and thought that some sort of a jig would be helpful.
 
Here are some initial photos in this regard. I hope that this post is not redundant for most of you, but I thought that I would none-the-less share. As we all know Never throw out scrap pieces of wood.
 
A now more peaceful,
 
Michael

Hello Everyone,
 
I became a bit frustrated, so I thought I would share a solution that has certainly been thought of before, but for me, as a "newbie" still reinventing the wheel Hmmmm
 
 I decided to loosely pre-install the ropes into the deadeyes before mounting them to the channels. My first fingered attempt was fated to succumb to an obvious half hour of frustration (first pic). Which was, as it turned out, the catalyst that I needed to head downstairs for some nurturing music as well as something to quench my frustration understandably so - no?.
 
So, having regained a sense of perspective I dropped any further similar attempts at threading the deadeyes by fingers, and thought that some sort of a jig would be helpful.
 
Here are some initial photos in this regard. I hope that this post is not redundant for most of you, but I thought that I would none-the-less share. As we all know Never throw out scrap pieces of wood.
 
A now more peaceful,
 
Michael

ZyXuz,
 
Very nice update. Very creative idea. Looks brilliant.
 
Michael

Hello Everyone,
 
Started the deadeyes for the channels.  I really liked Marktiedens idea of using the Amati chains instead of the kit-supplied pieces from his Vasa log. His work looks so good.
 
I purchased those sets as well, but found them difficult to adapt to the Corel 1/75th, and they also seemed too wide. So I decided to work with the kit supplied pieces.
 
Corel's supplied chains are too long and would need to be cut, also the supplied pieces were copper wire soldered together at their lower tips so were not flat metal. Then after inserting the deadeyes they looked terrible IMO; so adapted them as seen bellow.
 
FYI. first pic- Corel supplied, after deadeye inserted, and with wire straightened a bit.
 
Purchased J-B Weld the product indicated that it could be bent and painted, so decided to "flush" the wires after drying Dremel sanded all the chains. They seemed to now look "flat".
 
The black paint held well, and they could be bent as advertised with the J-B Welds; so far so good.
 
They now need to be all measured for their proper individual angles and length cuts, flattened at the bottom (Dremel wheel) so that I can insert a flat head round nail to simulate the rounded lower tip last pic. sorry it is way out of focus, but this is where I am so far.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Hello Everyone,
 
Started the deadeyes for the channels.  I really liked Marktiedens idea of using the Amati chains instead of the kit-supplied pieces from his Vasa log. His work looks so good.
 
I purchased those sets as well, but found them difficult to adapt to the Corel 1/75th, and they also seemed too wide. So I decided to work with the kit supplied pieces.
 
Corel's supplied chains are too long and would need to be cut, also the supplied pieces were copper wire soldered together at their lower tips so were not flat metal. Then after inserting the deadeyes they looked terrible IMO; so adapted them as seen bellow.
 
FYI. first pic- Corel supplied, after deadeye inserted, and with wire straightened a bit.
 
Purchased J-B Weld the product indicated that it could be bent and painted, so decided to "flush" the wires after drying Dremel sanded all the chains. They seemed to now look "flat".
 
The black paint held well, and they could be bent as advertised with the J-B Welds; so far so good.
 
They now need to be all measured for their proper individual angles and length cuts, flattened at the bottom (Dremel wheel) so that I can insert a flat head round nail to simulate the rounded lower tip last pic. sorry it is way out of focus, but this is where I am so far.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Hello Everyone,
 
Started the deadeyes for the channels.  I really liked Marktiedens idea of using the Amati chains instead of the kit-supplied pieces from his Vasa log. His work looks so good.
 
I purchased those sets as well, but found them difficult to adapt to the Corel 1/75th, and they also seemed too wide. So I decided to work with the kit supplied pieces.
 
Corel's supplied chains are too long and would need to be cut, also the supplied pieces were copper wire soldered together at their lower tips so were not flat metal. Then after inserting the deadeyes they looked terrible IMO; so adapted them as seen bellow.
 
FYI. first pic- Corel supplied, after deadeye inserted, and with wire straightened a bit.
 
Purchased J-B Weld the product indicated that it could be bent and painted, so decided to "flush" the wires after drying Dremel sanded all the chains. They seemed to now look "flat".
 
The black paint held well, and they could be bent as advertised with the J-B Welds; so far so good.
 
They now need to be all measured for their proper individual angles and length cuts, flattened at the bottom (Dremel wheel) so that I can insert a flat head round nail to simulate the rounded lower tip last pic. sorry it is way out of focus, but this is where I am so far.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Small Cleats
When building my first wooden model in thirty years, the Evergreen I needed to tie lines to the deck. I was winging it because the kit didn't have any detailed plans for any of the rigging and I knew nothing about rigging. I needed tiny cleats. Somehow I got an idea to use the tiny rail nails used by railroad hobbyist. In cross section a nail is the shape of a T, very similar to a cleat - a very short T.
 
I filed the edges of the nail head as shown in the diagram below. This gets you the basic shape. You can file the ends to a more pointed shape and add an upward bend to either side. Just drill a hole and insert to the depth required.

Hello Everyone,
 
Started the deadeyes for the channels.  I really liked Marktiedens idea of using the Amati chains instead of the kit-supplied pieces from his Vasa log. His work looks so good.
 
I purchased those sets as well, but found them difficult to adapt to the Corel 1/75th, and they also seemed too wide. So I decided to work with the kit supplied pieces.
 
Corel's supplied chains are too long and would need to be cut, also the supplied pieces were copper wire soldered together at their lower tips so were not flat metal. Then after inserting the deadeyes they looked terrible IMO; so adapted them as seen bellow.
 
FYI. first pic- Corel supplied, after deadeye inserted, and with wire straightened a bit.
 
Purchased J-B Weld the product indicated that it could be bent and painted, so decided to "flush" the wires after drying Dremel sanded all the chains. They seemed to now look "flat".
 
The black paint held well, and they could be bent as advertised with the J-B Welds; so far so good.
 
They now need to be all measured for their proper individual angles and length cuts, flattened at the bottom (Dremel wheel) so that I can insert a flat head round nail to simulate the rounded lower tip last pic. sorry it is way out of focus, but this is where I am so far.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Hello Everyone,
 
Started the deadeyes for the channels.  I really liked Marktiedens idea of using the Amati chains instead of the kit-supplied pieces from his Vasa log. His work looks so good.
 
I purchased those sets as well, but found them difficult to adapt to the Corel 1/75th, and they also seemed too wide. So I decided to work with the kit supplied pieces.
 
Corel's supplied chains are too long and would need to be cut, also the supplied pieces were copper wire soldered together at their lower tips so were not flat metal. Then after inserting the deadeyes they looked terrible IMO; so adapted them as seen bellow.
 
FYI. first pic- Corel supplied, after deadeye inserted, and with wire straightened a bit.
 
Purchased J-B Weld the product indicated that it could be bent and painted, so decided to "flush" the wires after drying Dremel sanded all the chains. They seemed to now look "flat".
 
The black paint held well, and they could be bent as advertised with the J-B Welds; so far so good.
 
They now need to be all measured for their proper individual angles and length cuts, flattened at the bottom (Dremel wheel) so that I can insert a flat head round nail to simulate the rounded lower tip last pic. sorry it is way out of focus, but this is where I am so far.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Frank,
 
Thanks for your kind remarks. Please feel better soon.
 
After Nigel's, Ferit's, and now your thoughts as well, I have decided to install the four swivel guns. I would eventually regret not doing so in any case. But guys, thanks for the push....I ordered 4 of these 15mm falconets.
 
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mantua-falconets.html
 
Instead of cutting them and just making "dummies" I have some thoughts on how to AGAIN (:-) do some repair work to allow for their full installations including their U framed carriages. When I get them I will see if that could work.
 
Frank an other great looking ship. Your Zebec is Whoa!!
 
Thanks for the link, I had already purchased those other four.
 
Again please get well soon
 
Regards.
 
Michael

Frank,
 
Thanks for your kind remarks. Please feel better soon.
 
After Nigel's, Ferit's, and now your thoughts as well, I have decided to install the four swivel guns. I would eventually regret not doing so in any case. But guys, thanks for the push....I ordered 4 of these 15mm falconets.
 
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mantua-falconets.html
 
Instead of cutting them and just making "dummies" I have some thoughts on how to AGAIN (:-) do some repair work to allow for their full installations including their U framed carriages. When I get them I will see if that could work.
 
Frank an other great looking ship. Your Zebec is Whoa!!
 
Thanks for the link, I had already purchased those other four.
 
Again please get well soon
 
Regards.
 
Michael

Lawrence,
 
Thanks so much, I really appreciate your thoughts. Though I have gained much of my knowledge by also visiting other builds here at MSW. They are a constant source of reciprocal inspiration as well. Learning from each other is a great catalyst for improving one's skill sets, as well as trying to "raise our personal bars".
 
Michael 

Thanks guys for your positive clicks, and remarks,
 
I was not too sure about this idea, but Nigel you are right the larger ones will now visually not be as prominent. Ferit your idea has great merit thanks for the thought. I have some smaller brass nails that I will blacken, then look at the 1:1 and the 1/10th and see where it leads. I do fear overdoing this I need to be careful (:-) (:-)
 
PS: My tempting new avatar??
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

Lawrence,
 
Thanks so much, I really appreciate your thoughts. Though I have gained much of my knowledge by also visiting other builds here at MSW. They are a constant source of reciprocal inspiration as well. Learning from each other is a great catalyst for improving one's skill sets, as well as trying to "raise our personal bars".
 
Michael 

Per,
 
Thanks for sharing that astonishing opportunity. That must have been so so memorable. Great luck!!
 
I do wish that at least, the museum would have some scaffolded walkway. Something similar to this, larger and have it just cross over to the other side. It would also allow great photographs to be taken from a new vantage point. Again cheers for your excellent experience. 
 
PS: Next time Pres. Obama stops by my home for dinner I will ask him how he liked his visit to the Vasa (:-)
 
Michael

Nigel, I have not decided at this point. I would need to actually purchase four and cut them by 2/3 thirds. Four may be "over-kill" But Ferit's point is well taken that all guns should be mounted. 
 
Michael D

Nigel, I have not decided at this point. I would need to actually purchase four and cut them by 2/3 thirds. Four may be "over-kill" But Ferit's point is well taken that all guns should be mounted. 
 
Michael D

Hi everyone,
 
I'm still "hulling around" sort of speak. Looking around for bits of more details to incorporate onto the hull before getting serious with finishing the channels, starting weather deck cannons and then making the masts, which I fully intend to "try and make" piece by piece.
 
So, looking through Landström's, I noticed rudder pendants (ropes) that were used to lift the rudder into place and as a means of preventing it from floating away if its fittings suffered damage (quoted from book) so added those.
 
I also noted a bronze swivel-gun pushing through one of the stern openings. Vasa never carried these, but they were intended and four would have been mounted. So I added one. I am also working on cutting small metal rings (which will painted white) to detail those round holes.
 
Last year, as the ship was standing on its nose, I snapped the tip of the bow, now it is protected, however uncomfortable I am with the boat standing on its nose. Pics are self-explanatory, but a couple of remarks;
 
The rudder ropes "stuck out" from each side of the rudder with big curves, and didn't look realistic. I used a glue that Ferit has recommended for rigging (G-S Hypo Cement) Excellent; it dried on each side of the two ropes allowing for more of a right angle look (Thanks Ferit brilliant product)
 
On the stern starboard side a cannon is missing. Well after THREE falling into the dark hole (with the dowel extensions), I gave up (for now) the ship now has a lot of rattles...and, I'm running out of replacement weapons.
 
There were two cannons already mounted, but I removed them, as they seemed too large for the stern. These (this) replacement were (is) smaller. Hmm Lastly real close ups are very scary they so highlight the weaknesses, glue, errors, should I go on??....
 
Regards,
 
Michael D
 
 

Excellent work, nice eye to detail. keep the pictures coming.

Hi Michael,
It's cheerful to hear that the glue works ...
I keenly prefer mounted guns on their places... Following your choice of adding more details is spectacular...

Hi everyone,
 
I'm still "hulling around" sort of speak. Looking around for bits of more details to incorporate onto the hull before getting serious with finishing the channels, starting weather deck cannons and then making the masts, which I fully intend to "try and make" piece by piece.
 
So, looking through Landström's, I noticed rudder pendants (ropes) that were used to lift the rudder into place and as a means of preventing it from floating away if its fittings suffered damage (quoted from book) so added those.
 
I also noted a bronze swivel-gun pushing through one of the stern openings. Vasa never carried these, but they were intended and four would have been mounted. So I added one. I am also working on cutting small metal rings (which will painted white) to detail those round holes.
 
Last year, as the ship was standing on its nose, I snapped the tip of the bow, now it is protected, however uncomfortable I am with the boat standing on its nose. Pics are self-explanatory, but a couple of remarks;
 
The rudder ropes "stuck out" from each side of the rudder with big curves, and didn't look realistic. I used a glue that Ferit has recommended for rigging (G-S Hypo Cement) Excellent; it dried on each side of the two ropes allowing for more of a right angle look (Thanks Ferit brilliant product)
 
On the stern starboard side a cannon is missing. Well after THREE falling into the dark hole (with the dowel extensions), I gave up (for now) the ship now has a lot of rattles...and, I'm running out of replacement weapons.
 
There were two cannons already mounted, but I removed them, as they seemed too large for the stern. These (this) replacement were (is) smaller. Hmm Lastly real close ups are very scary they so highlight the weaknesses, glue, errors, should I go on??....
 
Regards,
 
Michael D
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I'm still "hulling around" sort of speak. Looking around for bits of more details to incorporate onto the hull before getting serious with finishing the channels, starting weather deck cannons and then making the masts, which I fully intend to "try and make" piece by piece.
 
So, looking through Landström's, I noticed rudder pendants (ropes) that were used to lift the rudder into place and as a means of preventing it from floating away if its fittings suffered damage (quoted from book) so added those.
 
I also noted a bronze swivel-gun pushing through one of the stern openings. Vasa never carried these, but they were intended and four would have been mounted. So I added one. I am also working on cutting small metal rings (which will painted white) to detail those round holes.
 
Last year, as the ship was standing on its nose, I snapped the tip of the bow, now it is protected, however uncomfortable I am with the boat standing on its nose. Pics are self-explanatory, but a couple of remarks;
 
The rudder ropes "stuck out" from each side of the rudder with big curves, and didn't look realistic. I used a glue that Ferit has recommended for rigging (G-S Hypo Cement) Excellent; it dried on each side of the two ropes allowing for more of a right angle look (Thanks Ferit brilliant product)
 
On the stern starboard side a cannon is missing. Well after THREE falling into the dark hole (with the dowel extensions), I gave up (for now) the ship now has a lot of rattles...and, I'm running out of replacement weapons.
 
There were two cannons already mounted, but I removed them, as they seemed too large for the stern. These (this) replacement were (is) smaller. Hmm Lastly real close ups are very scary they so highlight the weaknesses, glue, errors, should I go on??....
 
Regards,
 
Michael D
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I'm still "hulling around" sort of speak. Looking around for bits of more details to incorporate onto the hull before getting serious with finishing the channels, starting weather deck cannons and then making the masts, which I fully intend to "try and make" piece by piece.
 
So, looking through Landström's, I noticed rudder pendants (ropes) that were used to lift the rudder into place and as a means of preventing it from floating away if its fittings suffered damage (quoted from book) so added those.
 
I also noted a bronze swivel-gun pushing through one of the stern openings. Vasa never carried these, but they were intended and four would have been mounted. So I added one. I am also working on cutting small metal rings (which will painted white) to detail those round holes.
 
Last year, as the ship was standing on its nose, I snapped the tip of the bow, now it is protected, however uncomfortable I am with the boat standing on its nose. Pics are self-explanatory, but a couple of remarks;
 
The rudder ropes "stuck out" from each side of the rudder with big curves, and didn't look realistic. I used a glue that Ferit has recommended for rigging (G-S Hypo Cement) Excellent; it dried on each side of the two ropes allowing for more of a right angle look (Thanks Ferit brilliant product)
 
On the stern starboard side a cannon is missing. Well after THREE falling into the dark hole (with the dowel extensions), I gave up (for now) the ship now has a lot of rattles...and, I'm running out of replacement weapons.
 
There were two cannons already mounted, but I removed them, as they seemed too large for the stern. These (this) replacement were (is) smaller. Hmm Lastly real close ups are very scary they so highlight the weaknesses, glue, errors, should I go on??....
 
Regards,
 
Michael D
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I'm still "hulling around" sort of speak. Looking around for bits of more details to incorporate onto the hull before getting serious with finishing the channels, starting weather deck cannons and then making the masts, which I fully intend to "try and make" piece by piece.
 
So, looking through Landström's, I noticed rudder pendants (ropes) that were used to lift the rudder into place and as a means of preventing it from floating away if its fittings suffered damage (quoted from book) so added those.
 
I also noted a bronze swivel-gun pushing through one of the stern openings. Vasa never carried these, but they were intended and four would have been mounted. So I added one. I am also working on cutting small metal rings (which will painted white) to detail those round holes.
 
Last year, as the ship was standing on its nose, I snapped the tip of the bow, now it is protected, however uncomfortable I am with the boat standing on its nose. Pics are self-explanatory, but a couple of remarks;
 
The rudder ropes "stuck out" from each side of the rudder with big curves, and didn't look realistic. I used a glue that Ferit has recommended for rigging (G-S Hypo Cement) Excellent; it dried on each side of the two ropes allowing for more of a right angle look (Thanks Ferit brilliant product)
 
On the stern starboard side a cannon is missing. Well after THREE falling into the dark hole (with the dowel extensions), I gave up (for now) the ship now has a lot of rattles...and, I'm running out of replacement weapons.
 
There were two cannons already mounted, but I removed them, as they seemed too large for the stern. These (this) replacement were (is) smaller. Hmm Lastly real close ups are very scary they so highlight the weaknesses, glue, errors, should I go on??....
 
Regards,
 
Michael D