Pirate adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam reacted to allanyed in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I agree, burnt umber is a better choice.
Allan
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Pirate adam reacted to druxey in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Lookin' good, P.A.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Thukydides in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from yvesvidal in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from dvm27 in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from davyboy in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from cotrecerf in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from CiscoH in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I experimented with adding some brown acrylic paint to some Titebond glue. I liked the look of the joint on some test pieces. I may have added too much paint though, as I was able to pull the test pieces apart rather easily after the glue had dried. I will parallel path trying druxey's approach of painting the edges along with just adding less paint to the glue.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Canute in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Erik W in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from jpalmer1970 in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I experimented with adding some brown acrylic paint to some Titebond glue. I liked the look of the joint on some test pieces. I may have added too much paint though, as I was able to pull the test pieces apart rather easily after the glue had dried. I will parallel path trying druxey's approach of painting the edges along with just adding less paint to the glue.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Redoutable by Oliver1973 - 1/48 - POF - based on own reconstruction
I love seeing your 3D drafting in parallel with the construction of the model. It is a work of art as well.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Oliver1973 in Le Redoutable by Oliver1973 - 1/48 - POF - based on own reconstruction
I love seeing your 3D drafting in parallel with the construction of the model. It is a work of art as well.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Glued up the keel and false keel. I used black tissue paper between the joints after testing it for color fastness when applying finish to a scrap piece. The black tissue paper comes with a level of frustration that I was not prepared for, but it does end up in a crisp black line between the parts. I am finding tiny pieces of black tissue paper all over the house, as it static clings to everything. Hard to believe it has already taken 11 pieces to get to this point. I am following the steps in The Fully Framed Model, so next up is the lower stem.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from CiscoH in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Glued up the keel and false keel. I used black tissue paper between the joints after testing it for color fastness when applying finish to a scrap piece. The black tissue paper comes with a level of frustration that I was not prepared for, but it does end up in a crisp black line between the parts. I am finding tiny pieces of black tissue paper all over the house, as it static clings to everything. Hard to believe it has already taken 11 pieces to get to this point. I am following the steps in The Fully Framed Model, so next up is the lower stem.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I've managed to cut the scarphs for the keel as well as the section with the boxing joint. It only took me 3 tries to make the section with the boxing joint without messing something up Plenty of good size pieces for the scrap box.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Canute in HMCS Bonaventure by NavyShooter - 1/96 scale - an RCN fitting out
This has been really interesting to follow. It is amazing how you are able to do the 3D design work and bring it to life with the printer.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in HMCS Bonaventure by NavyShooter - 1/96 scale - an RCN fitting out
This has been really interesting to follow. It is amazing how you are able to do the 3D design work and bring it to life with the printer.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Druxey,
I used the pencil approach for my last model. I liked the look especially on the deck. It is especially effective with lighter colored wood. The only thing I found is certain pencils have waxier lead that can reduce the strength of the joint. The joints on my keel scarphs should be bullet proof (fingers crossed), as I put 6 copper bolts in each joint with some CA as well as wood glue on the joint faces.
I am going to switch to the brown glue approach when I get away from the timbers for the keel and the knee of the head. I don’t want to mess around with potential de-lamination when I get to the frames. I have loads of colors of Vallejo acrylic paint from plastic airplane modeling during the pandemic so will experiment with that approach as well. I agree with you and Allan that the more understated look is nicer
Adam
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