UdoK

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

Most of the whole Frames are sanded and prepared.
I started to errect and glue them to the building board. To receive a nice and strait construction I'am using a very thin string line running down the Center of the building jig with a plumb line fixed temporalily to the Center of each keel Slot in the Frames when glueing.
To have more rigidity in the structure I'am adding some scrap pieces between the Frames.

I'am pretty busy today!
 
First two of the whole Frames are up, dry fitted to the building board.
 

Hi all,
finally I got the Backbone done.
At the first attempt of making new stem parts  I did a mistake on cutting the Joints due to be in a rush. No good, I couldn't use the parts anymore.
I had to order some cherry wood to start the second try, that worked well.
 
Here is the result with Joints and false keel as per the Aots drawings.
 

Hi all,
most of the sawing Job is done, the whole Frames are cut out now.
Next is to sand them to final shape, I will leave a few 1/10mm on for fairing after construction of the hull has been completed.

Now for some paint and trim out...

starting to shape up

The mainmast topmast stays. Its starting to look like a real ship finally.

Fore topmast stays. I've used the Clasic Models violin blocks. I cheated somewhat doing the mice by using a parrel bead served over to make the smaller bulge required. I really had to guess the belaying point as I can't find reference to one anywhere. 

That looks a nice ship mobbsie
Quite a vivid blue on the deck
 
I think I will paint my deck 
Maybe the hull colour
Maybe slightly different
 
The hull paint arrived and I am very pleased with the colour
 

 
However it really really shows up that I need some very delicate filling if I want it to look good
I have run out of decent filler so there will be a bit of a wait again
I may just spray the very bottom of the hull to see what the red paint I have got looks like
May have a go at that tomorrow

Progress on the windows, name of ship and last ornament on the stern. In next step i´m gonna do gallery

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

Just trying a simple jig seems to do the job.I'll make a better one later.Bulwarks linings with the odd clamp or two.

Bit more decking.

Hi Ken, thanks for that, much appreciated.  Definitely will have questions about the masts also 
 
As discussed earlier the best solution was to trim the top of the stem down to the bulwarks rail.  I used a carpenters square placed on top of the stem and slid the rule down to the rail to keep the correct angle and set the depth.  Then a craft knife was used to score a line against the end of the rule to mark the cut line.

 
 
I was concerned that using a saw close to the rails would result in them getting chewed up so needed to protect them somehow.  I initially thought of using some layers of masking tape but was still worried the teeth would rub through this so ended up cutting and bending some 0.5mm brass sheet.

 
 
Because of the position of the catheads I couldn’t fit the razor saw in so made the initial cuts with a hacksaw blade which was very slow as could only make very short strokes to prevent hitting anything.  Once the cut became deeper there was enough space to get the razor saw in but was still restricted to making short strokes.

 
 
Once I removed the top I used a file to clean up the surface and then wrapped some sand paper round the bowsprit and used that as a sanding dowel to put a curve into the stem for the bowsprit to sit in.

 
 
The following photos show the curved sanded seat for the bowsprit and it in position.



 
 
Okay, the above work dropped the bowsprit down to a much better position although the flat on the bottom of the bowsprit is still not as much as indicated on the plans but at least it now butts up against in the bitt in a better position.
 
As it is right now it can’t go down any further as it hits the bumpkin end support which I already knocked a corner off for it to fit and to be honest if I left it as it is above I would be happy.
 
But once I taper the mast down as indicated in the plans that will allow a bit more space between it and the bumpkin support so I will be able to further sand the top of the stem to bring it down further.
 
Thanks for everyone’s interest and input.
 
Cheers
Slog

A bit more on the clue, sheet and tack blocks. The photos I have of the Victory show the blocks held together with shackles (which hadn't been invented in 1805.  McKay's drawings show a monkey fist and loop arrangement.  I've simply prepared the blocks and lashed them together.  I suspect McKay's illustration is more accurate.  Fashioning the clue block.  All line including the strop and eyes are served.  Brass rod used to maintain the eye.
 

 
One eye completed.
 

 
Forming the second eye.
 

 
Sheet block
 

 
 
 
 

Topmast ratlines and futtock staves and catharpins.It's getting to the really fiddly stage up high. I'm terrified I'm going to break something. I've done the ratlines (which will thankfully be the second last lot until the Topgallants) and the futtock staves and 15mm catharpins. It looks clumsy (it is) but I have to use a beige line then stain it as i just can't see the bloody lines to control it otherwise. the stave itself is just plastic rod which as you can see runs long for ease of control. There was some torsion from the fall of the stays which was corrected by the catharpins and will be lost when the Topgallant shrouds are attached. It will look very busy.
 
This is a very painful process and I am looking forward to adding the breast backstay, Topsail yard tye tackle and backstays.
 
I forgot to ask, does anyone else use toenail clippers as flush cutters for their rigging lines?  works better than any other took I have found.

Breast backstays. The backstay needs to be separated at the mast, thus the little jig so it allows me to ensure the blocks are even on each side, and allows them to be served on. Tye tackle next, then backstays and stays.

As the other Endeavour club members are getting on with it, i thought that i'd try and keep trundling on with the Topmasts. The backstays now completed, just on to the stays and their mice next. I'd just like to say I'm crap at photography of small stuff - but at least it hides the fluffy lines. iPhones are not the best if cameras but very easy.

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

Most of the whole Frames are sanded and prepared.
I started to errect and glue them to the building board. To receive a nice and strait construction I'am using a very thin string line running down the Center of the building jig with a plumb line fixed temporalily to the Center of each keel Slot in the Frames when glueing.
To have more rigidity in the structure I'am adding some scrap pieces between the Frames.