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Everything posted by Geoff Matson
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X-Y Attachment for Dremel
Geoff Matson replied to Martin W's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
She is a great help Martin. I must admit I do borrow the optivisor from her from time to time time to time. -
Jay the dogs name is Hiedi. She was a rescue St Benard and we have had her two years now. I must confess I do borrow the optivisor from her once in a while. I could not do the close up work without it. As we get older I wish I had smaller hands and bigger eyes . Your rigging is coming along nicely. The one thing I noticed about gluing and rigging. You have to be careful of the glue. Once applied it tends to tighten up the lines a little. Even the diluted white glue. This can be a plus to tighen up slack lines a little, but not good if it makes the lines too taught. It has the same effect on port to starboard lines.
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Thanks for your interest The lettering on the name plate is just dry tranfer lettering from woodland senics. Very east to use. As for the chains on the rudder. I think you are right about it being a fail safe to keep the ruddr from breaking away. Not sure as why there are three loops. That is what is on the plans. If I were to do it over I would blacken the chain and not have it brass.
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Steve To simulate wood grain on plastic I have seen modelers use sandpaper to roughen up the wood, paint it brown or the color you and and then use a light black wash to simulate the wood grain. That is why I used maghony on the stern whale boat. I really liked the grain of the wood. You can see how much interrior you hide by filling the boats will the extra stuff.
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I also thought of painting the boats green as they are now. But....I really like the white so that is the way I went. I just think a green boat would be hard to spot on the water. As for the plastic on a wooden model. I thought long and hard about about that one. I like to experiment and try things for future builds. The plastic worked well at the scale of the Conny. Thats why used boxwood for the interrior on the large boat, cherry on the two side boats, and mahogany on the stern boat. I have also used plastic for some iron bands and bands in general and painted them black. All worked well. I have also soldered a lot of fittings and once you paint them black you cannot really tell the diference. Some modelers use card stcok in the same manner. On the bowsprit I did use metal for the all the fittings. Except for the the bands for the jibboom . I made those band from plastic and apinted them black. I guess it is personal preference. I really like working with 1/48 scale and would probably used all wood and, brass, and wire at those scales. Thanks for the comments as they are always welcome and taken seriously. It still amazes me how many ways there are sre to do the same thing in modleing
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Looks like we are at the two ends of the state. I am right on the Ill. Wis. Border. Thanks for the comments. I wish the Conny was of a larger scale so you could show more details. But if it was You have have to keep it in a garage! I am now working on the yards, A lot shaping and sanding to get them right.
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Gee Jay I go away for a couple of days and come back to find my St Benard rigging you boat. Just kidding, looks light you are making major progress. Still have some experimenting to do on the rigging lines but I still have time. I have just started working on the yards. Lots of shaping to do on those ole dowels.
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X-Y Attachment for Dremel
Geoff Matson replied to Martin W's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Check out www.vanda-layindustries.com I have there tree nailer and hold it and like them very much. But i agree you need a firm base to get anything accurate -
Thanks for posting your build log. This one is one to do list. Your presentations are always a joy and never too long. I hope to be at the meeting Sat if I don't have horses to haul and listen to your next talk.
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Thanks for the pictures Jay. That is kind of what I had in mind. There always seems to be some alligators getting out of the pond on this build.
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One thing I noticed is it is going to be a project to thread the chains thru the stem up and around the bowsprit. Not too much room. I was thinking of trying to run a thread thru and then attach the chain. Oh well I have awhile before I need to that. I will just wait and see what you do
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Looks like it won't be long for the bowsprit to find a home. Nice job on the scroll work.
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Dan I enjoy following your build and always learn something. The tip on the eyebolts for the cannons was a great one.
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Well, I finished the fore and aft bumpkins. I used basswood for the bumpkins Square plastic for the iron band and wire for the rods. Just took everything off the plans. The one Thing I noticed is that once the bowsprit is installed it is going to be a tight fit to install the chains around the bowsprit
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It always amazes me how many ways there are in modeling to do the same thing! Great work on the scroll work Jay.
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Jay I am sure you could use some thin wood and do it the same way. Maybe 1/32 or 1/64 might work. I have used pretty thin basswood run through the thickness sander. The thinner you go with basswood the more fuzz you get. I think boxwood might work better. You could always check one of the styrene companies on the internet. You can almost always get it in a few days.
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Jay I am sure it will help out to a little break from the rigging. You can only do so much. Try the boats they a fun build and a nice break from the rigging. Thats what I am doing right now. Working on the fore and aft bumpkins and the studding boom storage. Then I will tackle the yards. So many shapes to put on one wooden dowel
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Jeff Good call on the deadeyes. If I were to do it over I would have left them natural. Much easier to align them when you fo on the rigging part. On your anchor storage area, make sure to test fit the anchor. I had to adjust the opening and it was not easy after I had already installed it. Your boats are great. I really like building them, each one is a model in itself. The styrene worked great for me. I have finished the masts and bowsprit and am working on the aft and fore bumpkins and the studding boom storage area. On the soldering. If you do it like the picture you will not scortch the deadeyes. Once soldered just twist them a little to tighten the deadeye. But make sure the deadeye has a little room to move to help alignment. Just practice on a few. Happy modeling
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