Glenn-UK

Foreyard Secured to Foremast I had been debating the best method to secure the foreyard to the foremast over the last couple of days. After some research and advice from James H and MSW members I opted for a slightly modified version of the method detail in Lennarth's Petersson's book. See the picture below for Lennarth's method. Lennarth's method seemed easy to do and it was similar to the method shown in Lee's book on Masting and Rigging (page 67). I did not think it was necessary to take the free end down to the deck for belaying (as shown in both reference books) and I agreed with Glenn (USA) that the free end of the pendant should be tied off at the mast. James H also confirmed he secured the yard to mast without the need to take a line down to the deck. I also thought the jeers, halliards and lifts would keep the yard firmly in play once they were rigged. Using a simple clove hitch knot the truss pendants were added to the yard prior to fixing to the mast. The starboard side provided the free end and the port side provided the thimble which the free end would need to pass through before it was tied off. I had already added a pin to the yard and this was used to locate the yard on mast, with a touch a ca gel on the pin and a touch a wood glue on the yard, either side of the pin. The next picture shows the yard in place and, as can be seen, I positioned the clove hitch knots used to secure the truss pendants on top of the yard. With the yard in place I was then able to feed the free end through the thimble and tied it off, as can be seen in the next couple of pictures. Finally I have added a couple of pictures of the completed yard in place, I quite like the view shown in the first picture Before moving on to adding the fore and fore preventer stays I think it may be an idea to rig the foreyard jeers and halliards for ease of access. I can also complete the partially rigged spritsail top yard braces. Once the fore and fore preventer stays have been added I can then complete the partially rigged spritsail yard braces which need to be tied off on the fore stay above the mouse.

Nice work

Hi Rob I'm no expert but I'm to share my methods and ideas so feel free to ask away.

Thanks, so many options to consider. I think I will try Lennarth's method (2nd picture) as that looks the easiest method. I will tie off on mast.

The water line is clearly shown on one of the plan sheets. The reference points on the stem and stern posts also help which can seen on the plan sheets. Hope this helps.

I don't have Lee's book. Lennarth's book has a similar picture

Foremast Yard - How To Secure To The Foremast? I have completed all the work on the foremast yard and it is ready to be secured to the foremast. This post is a request for help as I'm unsure how to go about this task. I have detailed on possible method which I think can work but I would really appreciate any ideas / help in this respective. The photo below shows the plan sheet. It shows a small length of thread which is used to hold the yard to the foremast which is fed through and then seized to the some thread eyelets. There appears to be a second thread holding the yard to mast. Next I looked at Lennarth Petersson's book, which showed something similar, but the linking thread is taken down to a belaying pin possibly via a block and tackle arrangement and maybe to a eyelet on the foremast channel. Finally I looked through Jim's excellent build log and found the following photo, but it was difficult to work out the method used. Based on the above research I have come up with one possible method which I have trialled, as detailed below. Stage 1 - Make a Eyelet I took a length of 0.75mm natural thread and using some 0.1mm natural thread I added 5 seizing's coils to make an eyelet. It was important to ensure there were two equal lengths of the thread coming from the eyelet as can be seen in the photo below. This process was repeated to make a second eyelet again with two equal lengths of thread. Stage 2 - Secure the eyelet thread to the yard Taking one end of the first eyelet's thread I secured it to the yard using a simple clove hitch knot. To test the process I used a spare piece of 8mm dowel, noting the actual yard is octagonal with cleats to hold the thread in place. I have not applied any ca gel or trimmed the excess thread away on the test build once the knot was tightened as I intend to use these threads on the actual yards. The second eyelet thread was also secured to the test yard, again using a clove hitch knot. Stage 3 - Securing to the mast The next stage is to take one of the threaded eyelet ends and to pass it behind the yard before passing it through the opposite eyelet where it would then be seized. The next step is to take the other eyelets thread end and to pass it behind the yard before threading through the opposite eyelet where it would then be seized. I have not added the seizing in the photos below where the test yard has been secure to a test mast. The first photo shows the clove hitch knots and I am just holding the unseized ends in place so these threads can be used on the actual yards and mast. The clove hitch needs to be rotated by 180 degrees so it not visible. The next photo shows how the threads will hold the yard to the mast with the threads fed through their opposite eyelets. Assuming there is room to add the seizing's on the actual model I think this method will work. I also need to check I can hold the thread in place under tension while the seizing is added. As I said at the beginning of this post I am looking for help, suggestions on how to tackle this task.

Foremast Yard - Production Yesterday I started work on the foremast yard. Firstly I made the 2 off stunsail booms. Each comprised a length of 3mm dowel which was tapered to 1.5mm along its length using my proxxon mini lathe. A 0.8mm hole was also drilled in each one, as shown on the plan sheet. Next I moved on the main foremast yard. This was slightly more complicated and started life as a length of 8mm dowel. Leaving the middle section (66mm wide) at 8mm for the time being each end of the dowel was tapered down to 3.5mm on the mini lathe. During the tapering process I made sure the 2 x stunsail support brackets would fit. Once I was happy with the tapering the middle section was shaped (very badly) as an octogen and once that was complete the two cleats were glued in place. Next I added the stunsail end irons and hooks and completed the process by drilling the yard for the yard footrope stirrups. Today I moved on the various blocks and spent a couple of hours seizing thread to the various blocks. A couple of blocks required eyelets and there were a couple of double block seizing required. With this task complete the next task will be to add them to the main yard and to rig the footrope stirrup's. Once that is done I can secure the stunsail booms in place and paint the completed yard assembly black. The follow photo shows the current progress, the stunsail booms and footrope stirrup's are only dry fitted.

That is a good idea, I could do something similar when I print out the template. That said my pencil annotations X, 0, 1 and 2 works OK also.

Lower Ratlines Completed I had a really good day in the shipyard today and managed to complete the ratlines for the lower masts, approx. 1000 clove hitch knots tied. I am reasonably happy with the end result as they look much better than any of my previous builds. I now need to manufacture the Fore Yard, Main Yard and Crossjack Yard and associated Stunsail Booms. Once complete they will be added to their respective masts before I can start work on adding the stays.

Nicely done

I did add across the full span. May look better to rig as two for first 2/3rds and then rig as one for final 1/3

Ratlines - My Method I use to start at the bottom and work my way up and I usually ended up with hourglass shaped shrouds. I changed to the method detailed in this post on the DOK build and then on my Alert build and it has yield much better results. So here is my process Looking at the plans I note the main mast outer stern side shroud only has a few ratlines, as can be seen in the picture below. As detailed in my post I opted for a 5mm spacing between ratlines to replicate the 13" spacing on HMS Victory at 64th scale With reference to the next photo I print out a set of guidelines, with a 5mm spacing which is cut to shape an pinned to the shrouds. On the template X indicates the full length ratlines which are the first ones to be added. Next I add the ones either side of the X which are the ones indicated with on 0 on the template. After that I add the middle ones as indicated by a 1 and finally I complete the process by adding in the 2's. I tie a half hitch of the first shroud (which does not require a ratline 0,1 and 2) as I find it easier to then add the clove hitch knot to the first shroud. Once the ratline is completed I apply a touch a ca gel to the first and last clove hitch before I trim the excess thread. The half hitch can then be released from the first shroud line. Once I have completed adding all the ratlines I will check and adjust the positions where necessary before I brush on a diluted pva solution over all the shrouds and ratlines. Moving on to the mizzen mast they are all full length ratlines. I started by adding every 5th ratline one as indicated by the 0's (see photo below). I then added the middle ones as indicated by the 1 which is as far as I got when I took the picture below. I will now fill in the missing ratlines. I have already added one near the top so now I will add on near the bottom and will continue to work in both directions alternatively. I also like to work from left (stern) to right (bow) on the starboard side. To begin the process I cut a suitable length of ratline thread (approx 8cm for the example below) and I create a clove hitch knot around the first shroud line. This can be seen in the photo below but the knot has not been tightened. Ensuring I keep as much thread as possible available for the rest of the ratlines the knot is tightened up, checking its position with the template. Moving on to the second shroud line I form a clove hitch knot. I find I can make the knot much quicker using my reverse action tweezers. The position of the knot is adjusted to take out the slack, I am almost there in the photo below. Once I am happy I pull the knot tight. Onward on upward I move to the third shroud line and the first part of the clove hitch knot is formed. Using the reverse action tweezers the second loop is soon created. Once the position is adjusted and the slack removed the knot is pulled tight. On to the final shroud line the clove hitch knot is quickly formed. Once the slack is taken up the knot is pulled tight. It take me around 3 minutes to add a ratline to the mizzen mast shrouds and around 7 minutes for the main mast. I use a touch of ca gel to second the knots at each end. I do not apply gel ca to the other knots. After a few seconds the excess thread can be trimmed. I tend to do a few ratlines at time before I trim the excess. Once I have completed adding all the ratlines I will check and adjust the positions where necessary before I brush on a diluted pva solution over all the shrouds and ratlines.

Thank you, it is very repetitive work but quite therapeutic. I have a nice simple method which seem to yield decent results most of the time.

Many thanks, once the sailors have been up and down a few times they will move a bit and become uneven.

Ratlines - The never ending saga of clove hitch knots. Work continues with adding the ratlines, each ratline takes me between 5 to 10 minutes to complete. Yesterday I completed work on the starboard side foremast. There are one of two ratlines I could have done better, but overall I like how they have turned out. In the picture below I should have added one more ratline just below the catharpin rod. The sailors on this ship will there earn their daily tot of rum when climbing up and over the rod on to the futtock stave ratlines. This morning I have been working on the main mast starboard shrouds. Again there are 2 or 3 which I could redo but overall they do not look too bad. I am a little bit concerned that I will not have enough ratline thread left to complete the process, especially when I start work on the top mast ratlines. I'm trying not to be too wasteful so fingers crossed.

I should visit the National Museum of the Royal Navy - Hartlepool for inspiration which is about a 90 minute drive. The HMS Trincomalee is berthed there which is one of the two surviving British Frigates of her era. I have been a couple of times and really helps with get an good idea of what these ships were like. HMS Trincomalee - Wikipedia

Your welcome

Thank you, I agree interval fitting is the best method for adding ratlines.

Ratlines - The beginning Over the next couple of weeks I will mostly be tying clove hitch knots😆 As per my last post I have opted for a 5mm spacing between the ratlines to replicate a 13" spacing. (13" * 25.4 / 64 = 5.15mm) The lowest ratline is tied to all the shroud lines. The next 5 ratlines are not required for the outer stern side shroud. The pattern of full width ratlines spaced between 5 shorter length ratlines repeats over the full length. I have indicated this on my spacing template where X indicates the full length ratlines. It took me a few minutes before I found my clove hitch knots mojo again but once I got back into the swing of tying them it does not take me too long to add each ratline. In the two pictures below I have added all the full width ratlines for the foremast starboard side shrouds. My next update in a few days time will hopefully show the completed ratlines for the foremast, post and starboard. With reference the photo below I did struggle to get the lowest ratline positioned correctly due to the presence of the shroud seizing's. After two attempts I have decided to accept for the time being. I might change my mind and redo once I have completed adding the rest of the ratlines. All clove hitches are being lined up with the template, and a final check will be done before I apply some diluted pvc to the completed ratlines / shrouds.

Thank you

Futtock Staves - Completed I was able to spend more time than I thought in the shipyard today so I was able to complete adding the futtock staves to the starboard side. Overall I am extremely pleased with how they have turned out.😀 Ratlines to be added next. From a little bit of research I have done the ratlines on HMS Victory were set 13" apart. Adjusting this dimension for 64th scale and converting to metric yields a spacing of approx. 5mm (13" * 25.4 / 64=5.15mm) between ratlines. A preliminary estimate is there will be around 24 ratlines on the foremast per shroud and plenty of clove hitch knots. In the past I have found adding ratlines relaxing so fingers crossed 🤞it will be the same again for the Sphinx. I have added a couple of very similar pictures of the completed futtock staves.

I agree with @James H I also find ratlines very therapeutic.

Port Side - Futtock Staves First job this morning was to add all the futtock strop hooks to the futtock staves (100mm x 0.75mm black thread). In total I seized 22 futtock strop hooks to 22 threads. It took me a couple of hours to complete. It was then a case adding each futtock stave to their respective shrouds, passing them over and behind the catharpins. It was another 2 hours work to complete the port side today and I plan to start work on the starboard side tomorrow, but my time will be limited due to grandparent duties. The photo below shows the current build status. Foremast Futtock Staves Mainmast Futtock Staves Mizzenmast Futtock Staves There is some debate if the mizzen mast was fitted with catharpins on the actual ships of this period. As they included on the prototype build and shown on the rigging plans I went ahead and added them. I may regret this later on as it might hinder the fitting and rigging of the Gaff. With the futtock stave passed behind the catharpin it is held in place with a pair of reverse action tweezers, as shown in the photo below. I then added two seizing's to secure the futtock stave to the shroud. Once complete the excess thread was trimmed. Once all the futtock staves were installed I applied some Indian ink to the natural thread.

Hello BE Many thanks for your observations. I have no knowledge of what was actually fitted to the real ships. I just follow the plans provided with the kits I buy. I also look at all the different build logs on MSW as well. I have noted that on the prototype Sphinx built by @James H the catharpins were added to the mizzen mast. They are also shown on the rigging plans provided by @chris watton which is why I added them. I am sure adding the Gaff will present me with plenty of problems and headaches with or without the catharpins and futtock staves. You build work is truly amazing and I wish I had the skill set and patience to emulate your very high standards of workmanship. Thanks Glenn