Glenn-UK
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Everything posted by Glenn-UK
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008 - Mast, Topmast, Boom, Gaff and Bowsprit As I wait for the arrival of some more Titebond Original glue the planking task has been put on hold. The Titebond should arrive later this week, as the delivery has been delayed due to the current Royal Mail postal strikes. I jumped forward in the build process and ended up making the mast, topmast, boom, gaff and bowsprit. I used my Proxxon mini lathe to shape and taper the dowels. I have added all the blocks, cleats, eyebolts and thimbles. In the photo below you will note the blocks are not shown on the mast eyebolts. I have dipped into my collection of pear blocks rather than the kit supplied blocks. I then moved on to start building some of the deck items, as can be seen in the next few photos. In the photo below I am checking the windlass side panels will fit in the deck slots, once the laser char had been removed. The resin windlass is currently being painted. I have also built the capstan, but I did not take a photo.
- 62 replies
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- 6
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- Saucy Jack
- vanguard models
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007 - 1st Planking Continues With the first plank in place I moved on to adding the next plank. Once I trimmed the both the right and left-hand planks, they were soaked in hot water for approx. 10 minutes and then bent so they followed the shape around the bow. They were then clamped in place to allow the planks to fully dry out. To continue with the planking progress, I then trimmed, soaked and bent the garboard planks. When the first plank in place I added a stealer at the stern to fill the gap.
- 62 replies
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- Saucy Jack
- vanguard models
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006 - Start of the First Planking Now that I completed the Erycina build I can now turn my attention to completing the Saucy Jack. I have decided that I am in no hurry to complete this build, given the timescale for the release of the Indy kit, which is my next planned build. The Saucy Jack is ready for the first planking layer. Having checked the kit supplied planks, which should be 5mmW by 1mmD I noted that quite a few of the planks were nearer 0.7mmD, and the rest seemed to be around 0.9mmD. Whilst this is not an issue with the first planking, I have decided to use some of my existing stock of planking material which does measure 1mmD. Starting with the first plank I cut an angle and then sanded a camphor to the underside of the plank edge, to match the angle at the stem post, as can be seen in the photo below. It would be better if the plank was bent to follow the curve around the bow. With the plank laying across the planks I was able to see where the plank bend should begin, as indicated in the photo below. I marked the start of the plank bend on the reverse side of the plank. The start of the bend mark can be seen on the 10-line on the photo below. I do have a planking bending tool which, by scoring the underside of the plank, creates the required bend. I have opted to use my heated plank bender tool for this project. The planks are soaked in hot water for a few minutes and then bent with the application of heat to the underside of the plank. With the bend applied to both the left and right-side top planks they were clamped to the hull to allow time to fully dry out before they are ready to be glued in place. I am more inclined to try and fit the first plank as one continuous plank rather than in two halves.
- 62 replies
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- Saucy Jack
- vanguard models
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Many thanks Andrew
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Thanks. I opted for building two fishing boats as a stop gap before my next major build which will probably be the Indy. Next up will be completing the Saucy Jack.
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Many thanks Jonathan. I have learnt so much from other members build logs so I pleased you've found my build log helpful.
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Thank you Chris, it was a very nice model to build.
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Thanks James, your support and help was greatly appreciated.
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Thanks Derek. It is my first model with sails. I think they look good on a small model like the Erycina.
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Many thanks Dan. I found belaying the rigging, after the sails had been fitted, the trickiest aspect of this build due to the limited access.
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041 - Completed Model I have now built the display stand and the model is now complete. This has been an interesting and fun model to build. @chris watton design work is outstanding and the kit instruction manual, plan sheets and materials are of the finest quality. I have attached a selection of photographs of the completed model for your viewing pleasure.
- 106 replies
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- 13
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Many thanks Derek. I have learnt so much from following your build logs.
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040 - Mizzen Sail Rigging T The end is in sight as I'm working on the mizzen sail and associated rigging which is the final boat building task. The first photo shows the rigging of the mizzen gaff block to the two lower mizzen mast blocks. The thread from the end of the mizzen boom can also be seen being fed through the top mizzen mast block. The mizzen gaff lift rigging (the two 4mm double block can also be seen). The next photo shows the mizzen gaff block rigging belayed. The thread from end of the mizzen boom is belayed via a double block arrangement, with one end secured to a deck eyebolt, via a hook. The other end is taken to a belaying pin. In the photo below I have added a 3mm single block to the end of the boom rigging. The next photo shows the other 3mm single block complete with the hook. The next photo shows the completed double block in situ. The final task was to belay the mizzen gaff lift thread to a belay pin. WIth that done all work on the mizzen sail was complete. The final task on this build is to assemble the display stand.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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happy birthday Chris
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039 - Outer Jib Sail Refit Thanks to @James H eagle eye the problem with the outer jib sail was an incorrect fitting. This morning I set about releasing the outer jib sail. With a great deal of patience and careful manoeuvring of the threads used to secure the outer jib sail to the belaying pin and cleats I was able to successfully remove without any damage. I thought I would detail the refit process in this post, which may help other builders. New thread (0.25mm natural) was then added to the outer jib sail. I did not have to replace the thimble that I had previously secured to the sail. The sail was the hoisted up the main mast, via the block located on one of the mast rings, as can be seen below. The other thread was then passed through the hole at the end of the bowsprit. The outer jib sails alignment is already looking much better. I then added the two threads to the eyebolts, In the next photo I am in the process of adding the seizing to one of these threads. With all the rigging in place I took some time to adjust the position of the outer jib sail. As can be seen in the photo below I am using to reverse action tweezers to tension the rigging lines to check everything looks OK. Keeping the tension of the thread that is fed through the bowsprit, with the reverse action tweezers, the other thread which passed through the main mast block was tied off to a belay pin on the main mast belaying rack. Next the thread that was fed through the hole at the end of the bowsprit was, after being fed through a hole on bulwark, then secured a cleat located on the inner bulwark. The final task was to secure the two threads from the eyebolts to cleats located on the inner bulwarks, via the thimble fitted to the outer jib sail, which is in progress in the next photo. After around 60 minutes of effort the misaligned outer jib sail had been removed and rerigged and it does look so much better. I am really pleased I redid this task as the end result looks so much better.
- 106 replies
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- 10
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Having noted the alignment error with the outer jib sail, which @James H noticed (many thanks) I will probably attempt remove the sail and align it as it should be. The hardest part will be trying to release the sails rigging from the cleats. I have concluded I do not like rigging sails.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Looking good.
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038 - Sails Work Continues I have almost finished adding the sails. I am not very happy with how the inner and outer jibs sails have turned out. Despite rigging more complex models such as the Duchess of Kingston and The Sphinx I found the challenge of adding sails at times much more demanding, complex and fiddly. I think this was because I found it difficult to belay some of the rigging due as the sails getting in the way. The photo below shows the current state of the build and really shows my substandard workmanship with the installation of the inner and outer jib sails. The only task left is to belay the various mizzen gaff rigging threads. The next photo is a close up of the two jib sails. I could have done it better. On reflection this could be improved if I repositioned a couple of areas, so the jib sails were better aligned, for example: a:) closing the distance between the double blocks at the top left-hand edge of the inner jib sail b:) lowering the mast ring where the top left-hand edge of the inner jib sail is fastened. I have decided that I will leave this model as built as it will not be on public display. Model ship building a hobby I enjoy, and it helps me pass the time during the day. I have improved my building skills is so many areas with my last few models. I know if I built another model fitted with sails, I would make a much better job. The final photo of this post is a close up of the mizzen sail and rigging. All the rigging has been added and just needs to be belayed which should only take me an hour or two to complete.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Looking very good, excellent workmanship.
- 345 replies
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- 2
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- Duchess Of Kingston
- Vanguard Models
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037 - Adding the Sails Part 1 I have started to add the sails. I have not added sails before, so it is a new experience for me. It has taken me a while to get use to method, but I am slowly getting there. I stated with adding the main mast sail and I then added the main topsail. As can be seen in the photo below there is a slight kink at the top of the main sail, but it is good enough for my low standards. The next photo shows the main gaff block rigging. It also shows the main top sail fastened to the end of the main gaff. The next photo shows the rigging through the three blocks on the main mast. I should have tried to reposition the bottom of these blocks, but now everything is belayed it will stay as is. The next photo shows some of the belaying. I then moved on to adding the inner jib sail. I started by securing the inner jib sail to the main stay. In the next photo I have tied the top and bottom threads to the main stay and the other thread are waiting to be tied to the main stay. The next photo is a close up, I am moving from top to bottom as I secure the inner jib sail to the main stay. The inner sail has now been secured to the main stay on the next photo. The bottom edge of the inner jib sail is belayed to the Fore Jib Traveller in the next photo The leading bottom edge of the inner jib sail is belayed to the eyebolt on the top of the stem post in the next photo The top edge of the inner jib sail is secured to the main mast via a double block arrangement, and the thread has been taken down to a belaying pin on the main belaying pin rack. The completed inner jib sail is shown below The final photo shows the main, top main and inner jib sails. I will add the outer jib sail next. Once that is done the mizzen sail rigging can be completed which will complete the build.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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You are building a fantastic model, great work
- 15 replies
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- Lady Eleanor
- Vanguard Models
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036 - Main Boom I have now fitted the main boom which was a relatively straightforward task. I started with rigging the blocks between the boom and main sheet housing. In the photo below the rigging has been added but I have not belayed the free end. I have also run the thread from the end of the boom up to the top of the main mast. The thread from the end of the boom was then fed through the top block on the main mast. The thread is then belayed to the hull via a double block arrangement. I will touch up the metal work with black paint. To complete the main boom the rigging between the boom and sheet housing blocks was belayed to the cleat on the housing. The work on the main boom is now complete.
- 106 replies
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- 6
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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