Glenn-UK
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Everything posted by Glenn-UK
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I was not intending to do as much work on the Saucy Jack, but the painting phase of the Erycina means I have some free time at the moment. Also having plenty of free time is one of the joys of retirement, although my wife and I are looking after our youngest Grandson (18months old) so there will be little or no shipyard time this weekend.- 62 replies
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- Saucy Jack
- vanguard models
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I agree, taking good photos of the rigging is very hard to do. I normally end up rejecting the vast majority of rigging photos I take.
- 118 replies
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- Duchess Of Kingston
- Finished
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004 - Hull Fairing With the stern counter frame and frame patterns (lower, middle and upper) fitted I spent some time fairing the hull, using a mixture of florey sanding sticks, 120 grit sandpaper and my Amati sanding block. I am reasonably happy with how the hull looks. I will now spend some time checking how various planks will lay to make certain the fairing process is complete, especially around the stern area.
- 62 replies
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- Saucy Jack
- vanguard models
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020 - Timberheads and Paint I have made a bit more progress today. Starting with the right-hand side the first 'A' timberhead was removed from the sheet. After the laser char had been removed and the bottom edge shaped as necessary the 'A' timberhead was glued in place. This process was repeated for each timberhead in turn. Once the right-hand-side was completed the left-hand side timberheads were glued in place. The transit rail and stern rail cleat were then glued in place. I did file and angle the slots in the stern rail cleat before fitting. I then taped the hull and applied a WOP to the exposed outer bulwark patterns. Once the WOP had dried the bulwarks were painted flat green. I started with two coats of a diluted flat green paint before applying the final undiluted flat green coat. With the tape removed I have nice clean lines. The lower bulwark patterns have also had a WOP and have been painted black. Once the paint has fully dried, they will be glued in place. I have also started to paint the stern area. This requires some more work before I can get a nice clean finish, as can be seen in the photo below.
- 106 replies
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- 4
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Thanks, I have already fitted all the right-hand side timberheads, except the last two top aft timberheads. The Transit Rail needs to be fitted before they can be added. As each timberhead is released from the sheet, I am sanding the edges to remove the char and then they are glued in place. It should not take me too long to complete.
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003 - Fitting Deck The assembled hull had been left for 18 hours to allow time for the glue to fully cure. The deck was then added to the hull. It is essential to ensure the deck edges are fully engaged with all the locating slots on the bulkheads. With the deck fully engaged I then brushed a diluted titebond solution to the joints. With the deck glued I then moved on to gluing the 3 off fillers to the outer stern frames. I then dry fitted the Stern Counter Frame and Stern Patterns (Lower. Middel and Upper). There is quite of bit of sanding required to get the required shape to the bow area, can be seen from the build manual photo. I have been debating if I should glue these filler parts in place or to do a pre-fair before fitting. When I built the Sphinx, I did mark and pre-fair the bow and stern filler patterns before fitting which I think this made the final fairing process much easier.
- 62 replies
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- Saucy Jack
- vanguard models
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019 - Deck Fitting After removing the laser char from the edge of the maple veneer deck it was a perfect fit. Using a slightly diluted titebond mixture I applied a coating of glue to the false deck. The maple veneer deck was the added with a series of edge clamps to hold the veneer deck in place. Once the glue had cured, I test fitted the previously built deck furniture. The addition of the furniture does bring the boat to life. Next up will be adding all the timber heads to the inner bulwarks. When gluing the deck glue in place I also glued the outer decorative patterns to the rudder which, once cured, was then test fitted. It was a perfect fit.
- 106 replies
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- 3
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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018 - Hull Smoothing Completed I took my time to sand, fill, paint the hull below the waterline. After a few iterations I am now reasonably happy with the end result. I will be spraying the hull with some red paint, but this will be done later on in the build process keeping in line with the build manual instructions. The next task was to remove the bulkhead ears, above the deck level, and to then sand flat. This was a simple straightforward task. The 0.8mm maple veneer deck was then test fitted. It was almost a perfect fit. I will just need to sand a little bit from the edges of the maple veneer deck. Fingers crossed that, like @James H prototype build, I will only have to remove the laser char at the edges for it to fit perfectly.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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002 - Hull Build Stage 1 Completed All the stage 1 hull parts are ready for a dry fit assembly. All the above parts slotted together very well. The hull was then disassembled, and the bulkheads and planking edge patterns were put to one side ready for the pre fair to the marked lines. Using a rotary sanding took the bulkheads and planking edge patters were beveled to the marked line. The hull was then reassembled in stages. The bow and aft planking edge parts were glued in place. After the deck was added the Fish Well parts were glued in place. Once all the bulkheads, the longitudinal hull brace and stern frame patterns had been properly fitted diluted titebond glue was brushed into all the joints. The hull will now be left to full cure overnight. You will note in the following photo that I did remove the laser char for the fish well top edges.
- 62 replies
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- Saucy Jack
- vanguard models
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001 - Starting Point As I have some free time between painting and sanding my Erycina hull I thought I would have a look at the Saucy Jack. This looks to be a nice small and relatively simply project to build. As with all my previous Vanguard Model projects I get a warm feeling when inspecting the kit box and its contents. Once again everything appears to be of a very high quality (materials, build manual, plan sheets, etc.). I do not expect to make much progress with this build in the short term as I will be mainly working on the Erycina. The temporary stand was a very simple item to construct. I did opt to remove the laser char from the visible edges even though there is no need to do so. I then released a few parts from the MDF sheets and did a dry fit assembly. Everything slotted together very well, without any issues. This dry fit will have to be disassembled so I can fair the bulkheads and the planking edge patterns to the guidelines provided. Once the hull is fully assembled and before I start the planking phase the hull will require a final fairing process.
- 62 replies
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- Saucy Jack
- vanguard models
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017 - Smoothing and Filling The Hull After the initial sanding process, using 120 and the 320 grit sandpaper the hull looked and felt smooth. I then applied a thin coat of white paint. As can be seen in the following three photo's the paint really helps to highlight all the problems. Once the paint had fully dried, I applied a filler solution to all the gaps and dips. The filler solution used was diluted Roneal natural wood filler mixed with an equal measure of titebond original. Once the mixture had hardened the hull was sanding smooth removing all the excess paint and filler. Another coat of white paint was then applied. As can be seen in the final two photos below the painted section of the hull looks much better. It is still not perfect. Once the paint has had time to dry more filler will be applied as necessary and the hull will be sanded smooth again and then repainted. This is a slow painstaking process, and it can take a few sanding and painting steps to complete the job. It is well worth the time and effort required to get a nice smooth hull.
- 106 replies
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- 3
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Many thanks. I'm no smarter, I just try to learn from all my previous builds and from studying other people's build logs.
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I have two waterline marker tools, an Amati one and one I bought from Vanguard Models. I prefer the Vanguard Models tool. It can be tricky to use and mark under the stern counter. However once the tape has been added I find it easy to check the alignment with the waterline marker tool.
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A good start
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Many thanks. I had noted the plans were not 1:1 scale (as you noted) and I took that into account.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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It will be the marker for the start of the decals so I think the "Erycina" mystery has now been solved.😀
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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016 - Marking the Waterline I have jumped forward a bit with the build sequence as I wanted to paint the hull white below the waterline. This will highlight all the bumps and dips. I can then sort out all the defects prior to adding the deck pattern and painting the outer bulwark patterns. Adding the waterline should be a simple task to complete. Unsurprisingly this turned out to be more time consuming than I expected. This is because I over complicated this simple task by trying to be too clever. I have detailed what I did below. I started measuring, from the plan sheet, some points of reference to help with ensuring the waterline was correctly drawn. I transferred these measured reference points to the actual hull, using the scaling factor of 0.85. With all the point added and double checked I added a length of masking tape, joining the dots up from stem post to stern post. I then used my waterline marker tool to check the alignment of the bottom edge of the tape. The bottom edge of the tape did not track the same path indicated by the waterline marker tool. With the tape adjusted to following the same path indicated by the waterline marker tool I noted some of my reference points were visible, as can be seen in the following photo, The measured 2nd dot can be seen below the tape (blue arrow added). With the tape adjusted and checked once again with the marker tool the waterline position seems to be set. When I then looked at the stern post area there is clearly a major issue with the position of the waterline. The bottom edge of tape should be at the end of the counter pattern, The problem can be seen on the photo below, the bottom edge of the tape should be at the left-hand side of the blue line. I removed the tape and redrew the waterline, this time ensuring the start point was at the correct point at the stern post end. New masking tape was added, and I then double checked the bottom edge of the tape followed the path indicated by the waterline marker tool which it did. I am now happy with the position of the waterline. With the waterline marked on both sides the hull I used a steel rule to firmly press the tape edge into the hull. I then applied a coat of diluted titebond to the edge to seal the join and to further reduce the possibly of paint leakage under the tape The hull has now been masked and is ready for a light coat of white paint. I am going to wait for a couple of hours before adding the paint to give time for the diluted titebond to cure.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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015 - Waterline Thoughts I thought I would add the waterline to the hull next. With the hull positioned in the stand with the aft stand peg securely located in the slot on the keel I was initially concerned that the keel was not level with the stand, as can be seen on the photo below. I noted the keel angle was correct when I checked the angle of the waterline with the keel on the plan sheet, as can be seen below. I then noted there was a mark on the stem post, as can be seen on the photo below. My first thought was this would indicate the waterline position. I soon discounted that as it lower than where I would expect the waterline to be. I confirmed this by scaling the waterline position off the plan sheet (using an 0.85 scaling factor) to get an idea of where the waterline would be on the stem post. I concluded the mark on the stem post would indicate the start of the waterline load marking decals.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Many thanks, painting the hull is great for showing up the imperfections.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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014 - Completion of Second Planking I have now completed the second planking of the left-hand side. The hull has also been sanded smooth, starting with 120 grit sandpaper and finished with 320 grit sandpaper. Although the hull looks and feels smooth, I am sure that when I apply a coat of white primer to the hull (below the waterline) there will be a few areas requiring further attention to correct before the final coats of paint can be applied.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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013 - Start of Second Planking Left-Hand Side I have now made a start of the left-hand side second planking. I thought I would share my process in this respect. As can be seen in the first few photos I have added one plank below the outer bulwark pattern, and I have also added the garboard plank to along the keel. I have now fitted the first three planks below the outer bulwark pattern. I did not get the clean joint I was after between the 2nd plank and the counter pattern so it will require a very small amount of filler. I am also preparing the plank that sits next to the garboard plank. As there is a bend at the stern, I soaked the plank for a few minutes in hot water and then clamped the plank to the hull. The plank will be left to dry so the plank can retain the bend before it is glued in place.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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012 - Right-Hand Side Second Planking Completed I have had limited time in the shipyard over the last few days due to some pressing family commitments, so progress on the build has been slow. This afternoon I have managed to complete the 2nd planking on the right-hand side of the hull. I used GA gel to glue the planks to the hull and I am reasonably happy with the end result. I have added some pictures of the planking. Stern area Bow Area I am not sure what I am going to do with the area marked in the next photo, but I am not overly concerned as this area will be painted. I have noted that @James H used a small filler piece on the prototype build which I probably replicate.
- 106 replies
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- 3
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Many thanks. I am not sure I have the talent as I made so many mistakes during this build. I have certainly learnt to have patience however.🙂
- 476 replies
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- sphinx
- vanguard models
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That's what I thought, thanks for the confirmation.
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