Glenn-UK
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Everything posted by Glenn-UK
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023 - Boom This is a short post as there is not much to detail with regards to fitting the boom A length of 3mm dowel was tapered down to 2mm using my proxxon mini lathe. The double block was secured to the end using a clove hitch knot. It was then a simple to add the rigging between the double blocks. A length of thread was then secured to the end of the boom and fed, via a block on the main mast, to a double block arrangement for belaying. The next task will be to taper a length of 3mm dowel for the gaff.
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- Nisha
- Vanguard Models
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022 - Main Topmast Shrouds With the main mast shroud and ratline work completed I placed the main mast stay thread in position, but it has not been belayed. Next I fitted the main top mast. It was a relatively simple task to add the main topmast shrouds. The threads were seized to the PE part fitted to the top of the topmast using my quad hands. With the top mast threads in place a thimble was seized to the shroud free ends and the lanyards were rigged between the thimbles. The completed shrouds.
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021 - Ratlines I have now completed the task of adding the ratlines to the main mast shrouds. There was a ratline template provided on the shroud rigging plan sheet which I copied on to a piece of card. With the template in place the ratlines were added. I started by adding every 5th ratline as indicated by the "0" on the following photo. Next I added the central "1" ratlines and then completed the process by adding the "2" ratlines. The ratlines are aligned with the template guide lines, although they do not appear to be do so in the photo below. The completed ratlines are not my best work but I am happy to move on to adding the main mast stay, bowsprit and main top mast.
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- Nisha
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020 - Start of Shroud Rigging With the deadeyes added to the chain plates I then started to add the shrouds. To set the distance between the shroud and chain plate deadeyes I used my jig as can be seen in the following photo's. With the right-hand side completed the lanyards were then added. The right-hand side deadeyes look reasonably level. I have also checked the various shroud seizing positions so they look level when the lower ratlines are added. I will not trim the excess shroud material or belay the lanyards until I have added the deadeyes to the left-hand side shrouds and they have all be properly tensioned.
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- Nisha
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019 - Seizing the Blocks In preparation for the rigging phase I have now seized all the blocks. This was a bit of tedious task but I have found that it makes the rigging process much easier and quicker to complete. With reference to the plan sheets I started by making a detailed list of the different blocks, noting the thread that will pass through the block holes. I did check that the required thread would pass through the block holes, as it is easier to run a micro drill through at this stage if required. Although I do have a good supply of pear blocks I have opted to use the kit supplied blocks for this build. All the blocks were wrapped with 0.25mm black thread and the seizing applied was black fly tying thread. I used the same method(s) that I have detailed in my previous build logs, which is to use a series of top and bottom half hitch knots when adding the seizing, with 6 knots of the bottom and 6 knots on the top. With reference to the photo below I have also added the 0.25mm natural thread to the top 3mm single block and a thimble. The natural thread, when rigged, will pass through a block on the main mast before being belayed to the end of the boom. When seizing the bottom 3mm single block I did add the hook during the seizing process. The next photo shows a 4mm double block seized with an eyebolt ready for installation on the gaff. The top mast shrouds will be linked between 2 x 2.5mm thimbles. I have seized the thimbles to the chain plates in the photo below. The next photo shows two 3mm single block which are ready to be added to the gaff. I normally use a clove hitch to secure these blocks to the gaff. The next photo shows the various blocks required to be added to the main mast. With the exception of the 4mm double block they have all be seized to their respective PE parts. I have seized a length of 0.1mm natural thread to the thimble on the end of the 4mm double block. In the final photo I have shown the two 4mm double blocks that will be required for the boom. The top 4mm double block will be secured to the boom using a clove hitch knot.
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Many thanks. I have painted and blackened before. Generally I prefer to blacken. Tomorrow I will start seizing the various blocks which is a tedious task.
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018 - Masts and Bowsprit Manufacture - Part 1 Today I have shaped the main mast, top mainmast and bowsprit. To do this I used my Proxxon mini lathe. The main mast manufacture was fairly straight forward, comprising a length of 5mm dowel with the top end slimmed down to 4mm. The main topmast was a length of 3mm dowel which is tapered to 1.5mm at the top end. The main mast and main topmast PE parts were regularly test fitted as the excess dowel material was removed. The main and main topmast were dry fitted for some photo's. The PE parts will need to be cleaned and blackened before they are fitted. The bowsprit was manufactured from a length of 4mm dowel which required a taper and 0.8mm hole. The un-blackened PE part was dry fitted in the attached photo's
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017 - Deck Items Fitting Completed I have been back in the shipyard today after two days away from home looking after one our grandkids. All the deck items have now been fitted and I am now ready to start manufacturing the masts, boom, gaff and bowsprit. I really like the build when I reach this stage as it is the completion of a major milestone. Unlike the Saucy Jack and Erycina builds I have decided not to add the sails to Nisha. I have attached a selection of photo's showing the current build status.
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016 - Deck Items - Part 1 Time for a quick update. First task was to add the transfers to the hull. I also opened up the slot for the bowsprit. I then started to add some of the deck items, as can be seen in the next few photos. It should not take me too long to add the remaining deck items, all of which have been built. The next item was a very fiddly item to assembly. I did forget to remove the laser char from the doors. I forgot to paint the bracket sections black before the installation of the following item, as can be seen in the photo below. I did manage to paint the brackets black in situ as can be seen in the final photo.
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015 - Smoothing and Painting The Hull - Part 2 I continued to fill, sand and paint the hull. With the hull looking and feeling smooth it was time to move on to the next stage. It was necessary to remove the tape so the rudder assembly could be fitted. I was also able to check if there was any paint bleed. As can be seen there is a fairly clean separation. The rudder was fitted without any problems. I also gave the hull a light sand along the water line to remove any raised paint edges before the tape was reapplied. I used 6mm tape for the critical taping, as seen below. With the hull fully taped the white paint was applied, with two light coats. I gave the hull a very light sand with 600-grit sandpaper between each paint coat. The hull does look really smooth and the spotlights can be seen reflecting off the wet white paint. Once the white paint had dried I added a 6mm tape line below the waterline and then sprayed the hull red (Plastikote Red Oxide). Once the red oxide paint had dried all the tape was removed. I was reasonably happy with the end result. I still need to apply WOP coat to the unpainted wood area but I will clean up any paint overspills before I do this.
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014 - Smoothing and Painting The Hull - Part 1 Sanding and filling the hull so the final painting hull looks smooth takes time. I am going to document the full process I use and given it normally requires a few interations of the paint, sand and fill process I will spilt this over two posts. After the initial sanding of the hull was completed I sprayed a very light coat of white paint. This shows up the defects really well as can be seen in the first two photos. the next stage is to apply plenty of filler. I mix up a 50/50 solution of wood filler (Ronseal Natural) with Titebond original and then add water to get the right consistency. The solution is then applied to the hull using an paint brush. Once the wood filler solution has had time to dry the hull sanded smooth. My aim is to reveal as much as the wood planking as possible so the filler only be located in the dips. I then apply another coat of white paint, but this time I aim for a slightly better coverage. When examining the hull some imperfections are still visible, as can be seen in the next few photos. Another wood solution is prepared and this time it is applied to the areas where the defects are visible. It is time, once again to sand the hull. The hull is looking much smoother already. Another coat of white paint is then sprayed on the hull one side is looking really good. As can be seen in the next photo there is still a couple of areas which still require a bit more filling work but overall this side of the hull is also pretty smooth. Once the paint has had time to dry I will add some more filler to the target areas.
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Congratulations on completing another Vanguard build, your fleet looks impressive. I think you're ready to build The Alert.
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I have started a weight training program so I will be able to carry the Indy box to the shipyard when it arrives.😂
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013 - Painting, Wales and Timberheads Time has been a bit limited in the shipyard due to grandparent baby sitting duties. However I have made a little bit of progress. All the timberheads have been fitted. The tops of the bulwarks have been sanded in readiness for fitting the gunwale and stern gunwale. I did add a small filler piece to the top of the right-hand bulwark. I then fitted the transit rail and stern cavil to the stern area. I opted to paint the transit rail red using Vallejo "Flat Red". The rest of the stern inner area was painted black, using Admiralty "Dull Black". Before applying the paint the surfaces were treated with a WOP base. With the area taped where the wale is to be fitted a base WOP coat was applied to the outside of the bulwark patterns. Once the WOP had dried I brushed on two coats of black paint, using the Admiralty "Dull Black". I then gave the painted bulwarks a very light sanding with a 1000-grit sanding stick before adding a final coat of black paint. After applying a WOP base to the two wale patterns they were painted white, using Admiralty "Matt White". These were very lightly sanded with a 1000-grit sanding stick after the second coat of paint before the final coat was brushed on. Once the paint had dried they were glued in place, using small dabs of ca gel along the length. The outer edge of the stern board was painted black and the stern frame surround was painted white. This was after they were coated with a WOP base. I have attached a few picture of the current build state. The next task will be to fit the gunwale patterns, but you will see that I have already drawn the waterline and applied strip of tape above the water line in readiness for painting, filling, smoothing, noting I will cover all the upper area of the boat with tape before I start this process.
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Thanks, I have painted the inner stern board and stern frames black. I will probably stick with the Vanguard colour scheme.
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012 - Second Planking Completed I have now completed the second planking layer. Having trialed the lateral edge bending method I found it much easier to get some better fitting planks without the dreaded clinker effect. For the most part I am very happy with the end result noting there are one or two areas which I could have done better. I have also sanded the hull smooth to the touch. I started with 120-grit sandpaper, then 220-grit and finally 400-grit. I noted some of the plank areas became level when I bit of pressure was applied. I applied a bit a ca get to the slightly raised edge and then sanded the excess ca gel away whilst apply downward pressure. This seemed to work very well. After brushing the sawdust from the hull with a dry brush I then used a damp brush to complete the process. The planks are still slightly damp in the attached photos. The next task will be to remove the bulkhead ears and to then sand away any remnants smooth before fitting the laser etched deck. As can be seen in the final photo I will need to use a bit of filler around stern post area, below the waterline. Thankfully my bad workmanship will be hidden by the paint.
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Congratulations on a very well built model. Something to be very proud of.
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- Lady Eleanor
- Vanguard Models
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011 - Second Planking LHS I have now completed the second planking layer on the left-hand side. I was really happy with how the first few planks were fitted. I then seemed to find one plank really difficult to fit. So I decided to experiment with the lateral edge bending method to see if that would help. A plank was held either end of the required bend with clamps. I then glued two small lengths of some planking material off-cuts to make a simple jig, the top off-cut overhung the bottom so when in place it would keep the plank to be bent flat. The jig also allowed me to apply a required bend to the plank. With the plank held in place I brushed on some water and then left it dry overnight. I could have applied some heat to sped up the process (with hair dryer or iron). However when the plank was released from the clamps it had retained the bend. I was then very pleased that the laterally bent plank was a perfect fit. I have attached some pictures of the completed left-hand side. There will be a little it of work required to sand, fill and smooth the hull below the water line .before the painting process. I still struggle to use super glue (gel) when adding these planks. I start by adding a few drops along the first 50mm (approx) of the plank and then I place it on the hull. Once I am happy the glue is holding the plank in place I add more drops, this time to the hull, under the plank, working in sections. I use a broken micro drill end to add the glue to the hull. Any excess glue is wiped away.
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- Nisha
- Vanguard Models
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010 - Adding the outer patterns and start of second planking I have now added the outer patterns for the stem, keel and stern post. I have also added the outer bulwark patterns and the first plank underneath the bulwarks. I then added the upper and lower outer stern counter patterns. With reference to the next photo you will note that I did manage to break the upper outer stern board pattern, indicated by the blue arrow. I will need to tidy up the broken joint area before I apply a coat or two of white paint. There is also a little plank filler required as indicated by yellow arrow. With a little bit of work the filler piece was added, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the following photo. I have also tidied up the joint where I had broken upper stern board pattern.
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- Nisha
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I would simply replace the damaged shroud pair with a new shroud pair and strip away the ratlines. In the past I have undone completed ratlines without any problems. Good luck with your repairs whichever way you chose to go.
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009 - 1st Planking Completed Over the last two days, with limited time in the shipyard, I have managed to complete the first planking layer. I did not make such a good job on the LHS planking compared with the RHS but I did make a reasonable job of it. I did experiment with fitting a laterally bent plank. The photo below shows the plank held in the place as the lateral bend is applied. The next few photos are a selection of the completed first planking, noting I have also fitted the stern board. I have made a start sanding the hull smooth. I started with 120-grit sandpaper and then used 220- grit and finished off with 400-grit sandpaper. The hull does feel smooth to the touch and is ready for the second planking. I have attached a few more photos of the sanded first planked hull.
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- Nisha
- Vanguard Models
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Many thanks Kevin. You're doing a great job on the Lady Eleanor. Nisha is a nice easy build (so far). I am really looking forward to the release of the Indy which will be a mammoth undertaking. It took me 11 months to build the Sphinx but I would expect Indy will be 2 to 3 year build project.
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- Nisha
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