Glenn-UK
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Everything posted by Glenn-UK
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022 - Main Sail and Top Sail Rigging I have been able to spend a little bit more time in the shipyard and I have now completed the work related to adding the main and top sails. The photo below shows the current state of play. The top mast stay has been added but I have not belayed the free end which is why it looks wrong after passing through the bowsprit thimble. The next few photos are a collection of various aspects of the main and top sail work, in no particular order. I have rigged a few model boats but I have found some of the belaying to the bitts very tricky due to the limited space. It took me the best part of an hour to belay the line shown in the next photo as I found it almost impossible to hook the rigging line around the bottom of the belay pin. Some of the belaying block arrangements are shown in the next photo. The boom looks a bit long. I did double check the measurement and it is as per the plan sheet.
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021 - Ratlines I printed out a template and added my usual 0, 1 and 2 markers. The ratline sequence I follow is to add all the 0's first. Then I add all the 1's. The job is completed by filling in the gaps by adding all the 2's. As can be seen in the photo below I have positioned the template behind the shrouds and I ready to start adding the ratlines. As can be seen in the next photo I have added all the 0's. The more observant will note I actually added the bottom 2 rather than the bottom 0 ratline. I will add the bottom 0 ratline once all the other ratlines have been added so I can then repositioned the bottom clamp. In the next photo I have added the 1's ratlines, except the one at the top which can be added when the top clamp is repositioned. In the next photo I have added the all the 2 ratlines. In the final few photo's all the ratlines have now been added and all the ends trimmed. I now have to repeat this process for the other side. It does not take me to long to complete this process.
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I am going quite slow at the moment for me. I might have to build another fishing boat in the new year before I get the Indy kit.🤣
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020 - Main Mast and Back Stays The shrouds have been fitted and tied off and are now ready to have the ratlines added. Before adding the ratlines I decided to add the main mast stay and back stays. The main mast stay was a very easy line to rig. The main stay is belayed to an eyebolt located on top of the bow, as can be seen below. The other end of the main mast stay is looped around the main mast. I added a small mouse to main stay line which stops the line running through the loop end. Moving on to the backs stays. These are a little be more involved, with each back stay comprising a three block arrangement. A single 5mm block was added to the end of each back stay. I then prepared the other blocks and mast rigging straps. One block is seized to one of the rigging straps. the other block requires two threads adding, 0.25mm and 0.1mm natural. The rigging straps were added to the hull and the threads rigged through the three blocks. The final free end is ready to be belayed to a cleat. The next photo shows the rigging straps. The final photo shows the other two blocks.
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019 - Shrouds WIP Time for another quick update as I have now started rigging the shrouds. In the first photo I have added the deadeyes and lanyards to first shroud pair. I have not tied off the lanyard or trimmed the end shrouds in case I need to remove the lanyards and release the shroud seizing to readjust the position of the deadeye. I have also added the first shroud pair to the other side of the main mast. In the next photo I have added the deadeyes and lanyards to the second shroud pair. I did have to release and redo the final (left end) deadeye as it was sat to low compared with the other deadeyes when the lanyard was tensioned. They look much better now. Once I have made the final adjustments to the lanyards and I am happy with the deadeye alignment I will trim the excess shroud thread and tie off the lanyard free ends.
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018 - Main Sail With regards to work on the main sail I started by adding 8 off mast rings. Once they were in place I started to secure the sail to the main gaff. With the main gaff held in the quad hands I positioned the sail and secured it to the gaff at each end as can be seen in the photo below. I then continued the process gradually working toward the centre from both ends as can be seen in the next photo. With the sail had been secured to the main gaff I threaded the mast rings over the main mast and then did a test fit to get an idea of how the sail would look as can be seen in the photo below. You will also note I have added a 4mm double block to the eyebolt located behind the tiller. I also checked and marked the position of the main boom on the main mast. Once I have glued the main mast in place I can start rigging process starting with the shrouds.
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I have placed my order and looking forward to the challenge of lifting the big heavy box from the courier to my shipyard. Seriously I am excited about the challenge of building the indy.
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017 - Getting Ready for the Rigging Phase and Sails After carefully adding a slot on the starboard side for the bowsprit it is was glued in place. With regards to the next photo, the blue arrow shows where I went a bit off line with the drill when adding the cleat. This will be touched up. The yellow arrow shows the opened up anchor hole. Some of my surplus pear wood deadeyes were added to the strops and placed in the channels. I will add the pins when I ready to rig the shroud lines. With regards to the shroud lines and forestay I have made a start and these lines area ready to be rigged, which will be later as I need to add the main sail to the main mast. I dyed the sails using a cocoa brown dye which was the same process I used for the Erycina. I then added the topsail to the top yard / top mast. It is possible to move the top yard/sail up and down the top mast so it's final position can be set later on. Here is a picture of all the sails in roughly the right position. I am very happy with the sail colour.
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016 - Deck Items Following in my my earlier post I have not glued all the deck items in place, with the exception of the PE parts. I also drilled out the two holes for the anchor cables, using a 1.6mmD drill. Next on the build process will be fitting the belay pins, adding the deadeyes to the strops and then placing them in the channels, I also have to file a slot in the right side gunwale for the bowsprit. Here is a selection of photos of the Saucy Jack with the all deck items glued in place. The mast and bowsprit are included in these photo's but they have not been glued. After a good clean in soapy water and acetone baths the various PE parts were chemically blackened. I have shown a selection of these in the final photo of this post. I also have the sail set to dye which I will probably do in the next day or two. I am hoping to have completed this build by the end of the year or maybe early in the new year given my shipyard time might be reduced due to the forthcoming (bah humbug!) Christmas festivities. MY next planned build will be the HMS Indefatigable. The Indy kit is due to be released by the end of February with pre-orders available next week. I might have to build another small fishing boat to fill the void such as the Nisa or maybe I should decorate the house as it does need doing.
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015 - Gunwales and Rudder Time for another Saucy jack update. I have now fitted the belay pin racks, deadeye channels, gunwales and rudder assembly to the hull. The first couple of photos shows the current build state of the Saucy Jack. She is now ready to have all the deck items added. The various pieces of PE parts (eyebolts, belaying pins, hooks, strops, etc.) are currently being cleaned in hot soapy water and acetone baths so they can be blackened. The next photo is shows the gunwales in place. The next photo is a close up of the tiller and stern area. The one area I am not totally happy with is the stern counter pattern area, as can be seen in the next photo. I tried to be clever with the engraved Saucy Jack by adding a red infill. It almost worked. I did paint the inner stern area black, which I think made a big difference, noting the odd splash of unwanted black paint on the deck, which I might be able to clean off. The next photo shows the the left side belay pin rack in place. As mentioned in an earlier post I think painting the inner bulwark support patterns black was a good choice. The final photo in this post shows left side channel, which has been pinned and glued in place.
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014 - The Painted Hull I have almost completed the hull painting phase. There is just a little bit of touching up along some of the edges. It is not my finest work but I do like the colour scheme. I was undecided about is the bottom of the hull should be red oxide and the bit above the water should be white, but opted for a white hull finish below the water line. I do like the black finish applied to the inner bulwark support patterns. I decided the stern counter would be painted flat green with the upper outer stern counter painted black. Before the outer upper counter was fitted I applied a scarlet paint wash over the engraved name. On reflection I think I should have gone for a white wash infill. I might experiment with a fine point to see if I can apply a white infill. I still need to tidy up the outer edges and fit the decorative pattern in the gap above the engraved name. The lower stern counter pattern did split on the left hand side when it was fitted, as can seen.
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I also have a large collection of guitars, from my days as a semi pro musician. My favorite is a Gordon Smith Galaxy, hand built uk guitar, one of 3 Gordon Smith guitars in my collection. I tended to use my two Line 6 variax's when gigging for the versatility of sounds. I also have a "blackie" fender strat.
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013 - Deck Fitted Just a quick update. I have now fitted the deck which was a good fit once the laser char had been removed from the edges. I have also test fitted the inner bulwarks support patterns and deck items. I did have to trim the ends of the support patterns for a good fit. I have opted to paint the inner bulwarks support patterns black as I think it will be a nice contrast to the bare wood inner bulwark patterns. They have been spray painted and once the paint has dried they can be glued in place. I am also working on painting the upper stern counter area. The top of the inner upper counter pattern has broken away but it can be glued back in place, when the outer upper stern counter pattern is fitted. The hull smoothing process is still ongoing but is looking a lot better. Once I have fitted the inner bulwark support patterns and outer stern counter pattern I will commence the final phase(s) of the hull smoothing and painting.
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With a bit of sanding the bare wood finish might have been ok. I really liked the red oxide used on the Eyrcina below the water line with a white strip above, so I'm just extending this a bit for the Saucy Jack. I've not thought about the stern painting as yet. I have a good set of paint brushes, so hopefully with a bit care I will be OK. Time will tell.
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Titebond Original (with map pins) is good as it grips fairly quickly. Also Super Phatic is a good fast gripoing glue which is a mix of wood and super glue. I will check out Veloset, thanks for the heads up.
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It is certainly much quicker using Gorilla Gel and I know plenty of other builders use super glue without any issues. I think I need to refine my method, probably trying to glue a plank in smaller sections rather than trying to glue a full plank all at once. Glenn
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Hello Craig I did not edge bend. I have tried edge bending a few times on other models but I have found normally just tapering the planks is more than good enough. It may have gone better if I had followed Chucks method for tapering and edge bending the planks. In the past I have used wood glue and map pins when adding the second planking layer to very good effect. This time I used Gorilla Gel super glue which seemed to cause me no end of problems. I think I ended up with more glue on my fingers. I am confident that once the hull smoothing and painting process is complete it will be OK.
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012 - Second Planking I have made more progress with the Saucy Jack build and I have now completed the second planking. I have to admit that with all the models I have built this is, by far, my worst attempt at the second planking phase. I had a perfectly smooth hull as the base and I bent and shaped the planks as they were fitted. Despite all that I ended up with a very clinkered bow section and the stern area was not much better. I have now decided on a painting scheme that, once the second planking has been filled and sanded smooth, should not show the errors of my second planking. The upper bulwarks will be painted flat green down to the upper rail. Both the upper rail and main wale will be painted black. The area between the upper rail and main wale will be painted white. The area below the main wale will also be painted white down to the water line. Finally the area below the water line will be painted with red oxide. The pictures below show I have masked the hull and then sprayed it with white primer to highlight all the problem areas, noting this is the second iteration as I had already painted, filled, sanded and repainted the hull before these photos were taken. The photos still show the level of my poor workmanship in respect to the second planking. It is now a case of more iterations of sand, fill, paint, sand, fill, etc until the hull looks and feels smooth so in the end no one will be any the wiser. This will take a few days to complete as I have to allow time for the paint to dry before the filler mixture can be added. I then have to allow time for the filler mixture to cure before I can start sanding.
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011 - Smoothing and Rabbet Patterns As detailed in my last post I had sprayed the hull with a light coating of white paint and then used a filler solution as required. I was able to find a couple of hours in the shipyard today so I proceeded to sand the hull so the white paint and excess filler could be removed. The end result is that I now have a smooth hull which is ready for the second layer of planking. I added the rudder post without any issues. The final task was to add the outer rabbet patterns to the stem post, keel and rudder post. I used all my clamps when adding these patterns and the patterns lined up perfectly when the various locating pins where inserted.
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Hello Jonathan That would have been me at Dalby Parkrun as I do run there most weekends. I have no memory of running in a penguin suit, however but my wife does remember.
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Hello Jonathan A light spray of white paint really does highlight the problems. It is not strictly necessary for the first planking as the real smoothing is done once the second planking has been added. I thought I would try it after the first planking to get a better base for the second planking as I'm in no hurry to complete this build. I might be missing something obvious sorry, as I do not understand the penguin suit reference.
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010 - Prework for getting a smooth hull after first planking. I was not intending to post again until I had completed the hull smoothing process. Then I remembered that my wife and I are looking after some of our grandsons over the next four days so I will have very limited time, if any, in the shipyard. This afternoon I started to sand the hull smooth, using some 120-grit sandpaper. After an about an hour the hull felt smooth to the touch and looked very smooth. I decided on a belt and braces method to be absolutely sure. After taping the hull, so only the first layer of planking was visible, I gave the hull a very light spray with white paint. This will highlight any problem areas with the hull, not readily noticeable to either sight or touch. As can be seen in the first collection of photos below the hull does not look too bad but there are a few areas which needs a bit of attention. I mixed up a filler solution, which comprised 50% wood filler, diluted with water and 50% titebond original. Using a paint brush the filler solution was applied to the hull. Once it has had time to fully cure, I can sand the hull again so all of the paint and excess filler mix can be removed leaving a nice smooth hull which is be ready for the second planking layer. The assembled windlass was test fitted to the hull. I did manage to break one of the two cleats. I will have to search my other kits to see if I can find a suitable replacement, as I have been unable to repair the damage. I think using the flat green paint was the correct way to go when painting the resin part.
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009 - 1st Planking Completed I have now completed the 1st planking and the hull is now ready for sanding smooth. I have added a selection of photos showing the un-sanded planked hull. I have also taken some photos with the deck items placed on the deck. I had originally painted the windlass a wood walnut colour. As I was not happy with the end result and repainted using a flat green colour and I think it looks much better.
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