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Glenn-UK

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Everything posted by Glenn-UK

  1. Hull Plates and Rails The horseshoe and fishplates have been fitted to the hull. I used super phatic glue to secure the parts and brass pins to ensure they were properly aligned. Once the glue had cured I added shortened brass pins to all the holes. Horseshoe Plate Fish Plate. I will touch up the copper painting. All the rails have now been fitted. The left and right bow rails were soaked in hot water for 20 mins and then clamped to hull and left overnight to dry. I opted to remove the excess rail material that sat across the gun ports before fitting. I brushed super phatic glue to the rail parts and then carefully fitted them to the hull. The glue gripped really well as each rail part was added. I did make a slight error with the fitting sequence on the right-hand side, but it does not look too bad. It would have been better to fit the stern and bow rails first before adding the midship rails. I need touch up the odd bit of blue paint with a very fine tipped paint brush. I do need to paint the tips of the two vertical strips black to match the wales. The end of the curve rail sits a bit low but once the hawse holes have been opened up to 2mm and the other items added it will look Ok.
  2. Painting Today I have been painting the hull. The hull had already been taped, as per my previous post when I applied the WOP. I applied 3 coast of the red, blue and black paint to the various parts of the hull, quarter galleries, upper stern counter and stern fascia pattern. The first photo shows the right-hand side of the hull. The next two photos shows the stern area of the each side The next two photos show the bow area. The next photo show the stern counter and fascia area. The next two photos are close ups of the quarter galleries I have dry fitted the various rails to make sure I was happy with the painted areas on the hull. The next 5 photos shows how the hull will look with the rails fitted, noting I will soak and bend the bow rails overnight. FInally I have fitted the pintle straps to the rudder, noting I still have to add the shortened brass pin to the holes.
  3. Preparation Work The last couple of days have been spent as preparation for the next phase of the build. The first task undertook was to remove the laser char from the various rail patterns. Rather than split the rails up I decided to see if I could remove the laser char with the rails in tact. Using a mixture of scraping with a sharp blade and sandpaper I actually managed to complete the task with all the rails still in one piece. I still plan to cut the rails which fit between the gun port openings before fitting. The laser char that is visible on the photo below are on the rail parts which sit over the gun ports which will be discarded. The next task was to prepare the rudder PE parts. These parts were all cleaned in warm soapy water before being placed in acetone. Some of them were then blackened and some sprayed with a coat ofr primer, in readiness for a coat (or two) of white paint. The horseshoe and fishplates have also been primed and are now ready for a coat )or two) of copper paint. The area where the rails will be fitted to the hull were covered with 2mmW masking tape before the WOP and paint could be applied. The area's on the hull where the channels will fitted were also taped. The hull was then coated with a wipe on poly (WOP) coat, using two paint brushes. The first paint brush applied the WOP mix (50% poly varnish and 50% white spirit) which was then brushed away using the second brush. Once the WOP has fully dried out the hull can be painted. State of play after the WOP
  4. Hull Painting and Dry Fitting Next Stage The masking tape was removed this morning and I was very pleased that there was no bleed. The hull is looking good, not perfect but much better than my previous builds which required a white painted hull below the waterline. Planning ahead I have glued the two outer rudder patterns to rudder. I have also removed the laser char. I have also removed the various rails from the 1mm sheet and these have been dry fitted to the hull. I think I will follow previous builders examples with regards to removing the laser char from the rails by cutting the rails up into smaller pieces. The horseshoe and fishplate have also been dry fitted. The photo below shows the Sphinx with the rails, horseshoe and fishplate and rudder dry fitted. The next photo is a close up of the horseshoe dry fitted in position The next photo is a close up of the fishplate dry fitted in position The next photo shows the rudder in position and the stern rails dry fitted. The final two photos shows the midships and bow areas with the rails dry fitted.
  5. Thanks Mark. I will be taking the tape off with a mix of fear and excitement. Hopefully I have made a good job of masking.
  6. Thanks, so much happier with the v2 build as I made a right pigs ear with the tricky quarter galleries with my v1 build
  7. Painting The Hull White I have spent the last few days painting the hull white. This has been a long drawn out process. After each coat of paint a filler mixture was applied to fill the various depressions. I used wood filler mixed with titebond and water to fill the depressions. Once the filler mix had dried the hull was sanded, taking off the excess filler and most of the paint. The hull was then repainted white. After 4 (or 5 interations) of this process I reached the stage where I was resonably happy with the look of the hull. It felt and looked smooth so I sprayed two final coats of white paint. It is not 100% perfect but I think it passes muster. The hull is still in the paint shop and will be left overnight to allow time for the paint to fully dry. Fingers crossed the taping has done its job. Tomorrow will be the day of the big reveal. As can be seen in the photo below I inserted pins in the horseshow and fishplate holes to ensure the remained paint free.
  8. Looks very nice. You may need to trial fit the knees. I think they will be easier to fit before it gets to crowded.
  9. Hello Mark I use a deadeye jig which has worked very well for both my Duchess of Kingston and Alert builds. I have added a couple of links to my build posts which shows the jig in action. Deadeye Jig (Alert) Deadeye Jig (DOK) Glenn
  10. Quarter Galleries and Hull Painting The first task today was to complete the lower finishing pattern for the quarter galleries. Using a rotary tool I carefully shaped the stern end. Once I was happy with the shaping of the stern end I moved on to bevelling the front end so the top edge was flush with the berthing pattern and the lower edge was tapered to a fine edge. Once again I used my rotary tool I took my time with plenty of test fits during the shaping process to make sure it was a good fit. I also used a sanding block and sanding paper for the final shaping. The photo below shows the right-hand side. I have added the filler to the side of the window pattern/ berthing pattern. I did managed to break off the leading edge of the lower finishing pattern during the shaping process. I have started to add some filler to correct and it will look Ok with a bit more fettling and then painted black. The photo below is the left-hand side quarter gallery. Again this will look Ok when the black paint has been added. The photo below show the stern view. It does not look too bad, but I will need to add a bit of filler before the black paint is added Next I taped the hull above the waterline, and using Admiralty Matt White diluted with water I brushed on the first coat of paint. Once the paint has had time to dry I will inspect the hull and then sand and fill as necessary. I am hoping this will not require too much as I did quick a bit of work in this respect when I completed the second planking. I plan to use diluted Admiralty Matt white and once I am happy the hull is smooth. If necessary I will finish off with a spray can final coat. The photo below was taken after the first coat of diluted Admiralty Matt white paint had been brushed on the hull
  11. Work on Quarter Galleries Continues As with stern fascia pattern I decided to trial fit the windows to the quarter gallery window frame. They all required a bit of fettling to make them fit. Next I bevelled the front edge of the upper patterns. I also assembled the lower finishing patterns. Next I did a dry fit of the window pattern to make sure. As everything looked good. I spent a bit more time shaping the upper patterns. Once I was happy it was time to glue the various parts in place. The right-hand side looks reasonable Ok. As can be seen in the photo below I will need to fill the edge between the stern fascia and window pattern This is the left-hand side which will also require a little bit of filler. I also need to blow and brush the dust away.
  12. Stern and Starting Work on Quarter Galleries When looking at gluing part 29 to part 45b I was not 100% sure about how these two parts should be aligned. I think the alignment should be as shown in the photo below. Does this look correct? When I built my V1 build I was confused with build step 220 with regard to the position of part 45c. Thankfully @James H was able to send me a modified picture, which I have added to this post. It should be located directly underneath the middle gallery pattern (part 45) and not as shown in the manual which is on top of the upper gallery pattern (part 45). Moving on with todays progress the outer upper counter pattern was glued in place without any problems. While I let the glue cure I decided to test fit the windows to the outer stern fascia pattern. I recalled on the V1 build the windows did require a little bit of fettling so thought it would be easier to sort out the fitting before any of the parts were installed. I have added some tape to the windows for identification purposes to ensure the correct windows will be fitted to the right frame. The outer stern fascia pattern was then glued in place. I took plenty of time to ensure the part was properly aligned with the inner stern fascia pattern. The quarter gallery berthing pattern needs to follow the curve of the quarter gallery patterns. To make the fitting process a bit easier I applied a bit of moisture to the berthing patterns and then clamped them to part 45c. These will be left overnight to fully dry out and hopefully they will have retained the required bend.
  13. Painting The Wales and Strakes I decided to use the same Plastikote Black spray paint as used on the prototype, and as shown in the build manual. The first task was to prepare the hull. I started with some 4mm tape to mask above and below the wales and strakes. The tape was pressed firmly into place using a steel rule. I then used copious quantities of 50mm masking tape to cover the rest of the hull, leaving middle section of the quarter gallery open also. Finally a coat of wipe on poly was added to the wales and strakes. The hull was then taken to my garage when I sprayed the hull with the Plastikote Black paint. 3 light coats of paint were applied. Once the paint had dried I applied a wipe of poly coat to seal the paint finish. In the photo of the right-hand side below there is a bit of leakage below the hawse holes. This is not an issue as this area will be coved by the hawse bolsters later on in the build process. This is the left-hand side There is a tiny bit of leakage around the quarter galleries but apart from that it looks OK.
  14. Quarter Gallery Patterns This was a nice task to undertake today. The 6 quarter gallery patterns were shaped, doing plenty of test fitting as I went along. Once I was happy with the fitting I started with the right-hand side and glued the middle pattern together with the alignment pattern 51 to ensure the pattern was properly set. Next the upper pattern was fitted and aligned with part 51. The task was complete when the bottom pattern was glued in place. The above process was then repeated for the left-hand side.
  15. Main Wales & Strakes Take 2 Taking much more care the replacement main wales were glued in place. This time I made sure the top edge followed outer pattern from bow to stern. The upper strakes were also glued in place. I am much happier with how they look this time around. I have also fitted the upper counter pattern (inner) and inner fascia (inner). As can be seen in the photo below the fascia top edge alignment is approx. 2 mm above the bulwark. I have also dry fitted the outer upper counter pattern and stern fascia pattern. I am very pleased with how the stern area looks as can be seen below. The next task will be to shape and fit the quarter gallery patterns, 45 (x2) and 45a (x1) per side along with part 51 which is used to ensure the upper two patterns are properly angled.
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