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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Ah yes, chrome parts. I remember back as lad building car models and spending much time scraping off chrome mostly to just to get the glue to hold and others for reasons as you point out.
  2. That model will be a "show stopper" for sure. I would love to take on a project like that... but alas, at my age, I doubt I would be able to finish it.
  3. Excellent point about Hahn's work. There also his book, Ships of the American Revolution. And here:https://www.modelshipbuilder.com/hahnplans.html. I bought my Licorne plans from modelshipbuilder but they're not on the website but in the book and you need to ask modelshipbuilder for a price on any plans in the book but not on his site.
  4. If you haven't done this give it some thought.... Add your name and build year somewhere, either on the nameplate or semi-hidden on/in the model itself. If your model is fortunate, that info well help give anyone some info if they decide to restore it. We see questions about restoration all the time here for both scratch and kit models where the restorer is looking for additional info.
  5. I think this basically boils down to "builder's choice". Some manufacurers specialize is 1:48 which makes a large model of a frigate or bigger. while some go for the 164. Both those seem to be "standard" scales but there are others makers who got into things like 1:72,, 1:82, etc. Look for your comfort zone in build size as that's important not just for building but also displaying.
  6. i go with the others, Rob. That is one stunning build in spite of the kit fighting with you.
  7. Welcome to MSW, Lars. Basically the best advice is to start small... meaning no masts and then build up from there. The ModelExpo 3 kit starter package is a good idea. If you haven't seen this topic yet, have a look... https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
  8. My dad did. The place he went to knew what it was.
  9. Haze, if this is correct, let any moderator know and the log can be moved.
  10. In addition to all the points in the above posts, it's possible that no build logs will show up until after Christmas. About all any of us can do is sit back and wait to see.
  11. Dave, do they need to be britannia? If not, have a look through our sponsors list on the front page. Last time I looked, Bluejacket had britannia cannons still but it's been awhile. The world has moved on a bit and while brass cannon are available, I think they're slowly going way in favor of 3D printed ones. Just check the sites and see what what they have, by size, not scale.
  12. Good looking hull, Phil. As for the "horses neck"... depending on the barkeep and location, sometimes it's as you say and other times it's non-alcoholic. My late father was a teetotaler and that's what he drank during social events. He did get surprised often when had an adult beverage in it.
  13. If this is like most mini-mill chucks, usually you can open them to the point the jaws can be removed so that everything can be lubricated. Note that it does take a bit of fiddling to get them back in place exactly.
  14. Welcome to retirement and the wonderful world of ship modeling, Philippe.
  15. Denial sometimes seems normal in this regard. I've seen here in the States with some folks usually in hte south referring to the "Civil War" as "the recent unpleasantness" (it took place in the 1860's) and also as "the war of northern aggression" along with other denials. I guess pride and reality don't often mix.
  16. The Alice's Restaurant sets the tone for that period, Phil. I guess I was even dumber.... right out high school in '66, I joined the Marines. Day after signing up, I got the draft notice. Talked to the recruiter and they took care of it. Luckily, I went for "aviation guarantee" and was accepted.
  17. Welcome to MSW. I'd suggest having a look at our sponsors on the main page. One question... are you looking for kits or parts like cannons, blocks, etc.? That might help narrow things down a bit.
  18. I tend to use clothes pins. I cutout about halfway the thickness and then down about 1/2". The long parts grap the fram/bukhead and the "notch" is what clamps the plank down. I'll have to look for a photo or take one if that would help.
  19. Comparing balsa with the planking wood in most kits is apples and oranges. Balsa is soft and fuzzy. Most planking woods, even basswood are harder. Go with the files, sandpaper for starters and get a sense and feel for the wood. Then go from there. Planes are good also for harder woods.
  20. I just end up cutting out a "plank" of the appropriate thickness for the opening and shape to fit the opening in the saw table. Once secured in place, start the saw and slowly raise blade until it's the height I want.
  21. Wow.... beautiful work, Alan. And that good news about the house repairs.
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