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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Ah.... yes, the French did line the insides of their stoves and ovens with brick. It was held in place with iron straps. They also often covered the outside (but not always) with wood. The iron iron straps did that. I'll have to dig through. IF anyone has a copy of Frolich's The Art of Ship Modeling, have a look at pages 122-123. Not all their galleys (stoves) were like this. For example my Licorne had an oven and a different type of stove (galley) If I can get my scanner to fire up (it's been a bit fussy lately) I'll scan the stove from the Belle Poule.
  2. There are ways to work around this. Some just us an electric drill and using sanding sticks "free carve" the pieces. Others jig up the drill using plywood and make a lathe. While it's not easy to figure out how to make up a drill stand to use it as a mill, it seems to work. Many moons ago I used a drill to turn cannon as didn't have a lathe. It worked but it was a pain to do and use.
  3. But it seems they still put brick under the stove because of sparks, coals getting moved about, etc. I think the iron was subject to which country one is looking at. I don't think you're wrong though as I've seen plans going both ways.
  4. I took a look here (https://www.wood-database.com/african-padauk/ Interesting wood but perhaps the descriptions may not the wood you want.
  5. Welcome to MSW, James. The others have given some great advice. If you havent' done so, read the tu;torials here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/ As a side note, I find using sanding sticks such as those found in beau;ty supply shops for nails to work a treat for fairing.
  6. You might want to do some testing using FireFox if it will run on a phone. The Edge browser uses Google code for it's behind the scenes software and it may start having the same issues. Hopefully, Google/Samsong will sort out their issues. Iit's possible, I think, that Samsung is the problem with their driver so hopefully, they can fix it.
  7. Have you tried heat bending the bamboo? Might be the solution to the problem. Edit: I found a builder who's bending bamboo..... here's his post:
  8. Hmm.... emperor penguins can be a tall as 5 feet so double the size of a "normal" one. But they'd still be tiny on the model. I'll go stand in the corner now and penance for that.
  9. Now that I think of it, we have had some couples building models even just one is doing some odds and ends.
  10. Glen, I quite agree with Kieth. I think the sails are giving us an optical illusion. If looked at one way, it appears they are billowing from bow to stern.. and yet, they; also look like wind from astern and blowing forward. Makes my eyes cross if I look too long.
  11. Welcome to MSW. I would suggest you open build log(s) when you're ready as it's a great way to questions and also meet other modelers.
  12. So instead of "Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer" you sing "Rudolf the Red Nosed Roo"?
  13. Just a couple more thoughts.... visit your local glass/window supply company. You'll be able to see how flexible acrylic is. Also have look what they off in glass, not acrylic. You should also check if they have frosted acrylic or glass for light diffusion. You WILL be leaning forward and resting your arms and some body weight on this clear/frosted top along with other items so it needs to be able to resist the weight.
  14. I hope you'll back off a bit and not push yourself so your body can recover. Don't worry about the model as it's patient.
  15. Even an old hair dryer will work. They don't usually get hot enough to burn the wood if one's not being careful with a hot air gun. I use both depending on my mood.
  16. I find remember the "treat each piece as a model and at the the of the day, you'll have more models than most do in a lifetime.". Yes, it's hard to do that and I'm still trying to follow that.
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